Finishing Pine Bowl Question

[Dan Mosley]

i got ahold of some good size pine logs and decided to turn them.
Learning curve - Not the best wood to turn, wet pine tears easy no matter how sharp your tools are, cracks easy especially micro checks before you get it off the lathe, sap all over your tools and arms. But still fun to turn so i i did a couple....Pictures below....In the first two pics - i was turning this bowl on the lathe shooting for < 1/4 inch and boom it blew two chucks out on each side.......decided to enhance the holes and burn them for the fun of it and managed to keep it from the firewood pile....finishing sanding on the lathe post blow out was not bad on the outside but i didnt sand the inside as it seemed to be to dangerous (catches, cuts etc-).
The pic of the pine vase i liked it ...natural edge look with bullseyes.....but it had so much tear on it.....very sharp tools - my cutter is carbide and i still had tearout all over the place on it ...inside and out......the neighbor loved the burned look so i finished it the same way as the little bowl and gave it away..........Pictures below show the turnings unfinished

Questions regarding the Pine turning :


Biggest issues are to control the tearout and cracking/checking

1- I have sanding sealers but havent used them as some suggest before during and after sanding .....some are cutting it with thinner to 50/50 and between sanding grits for fasteer soak in and drying ....

2- A trick mentioned is to sand with wax - can you explain how you do this ? i would think it would clog up your sanding paper instantly.....

Lastly - on "Pine" - i usually do all my sanding inside and out on wet wood, using water a couple times toward the end to raise the grain -then apply lemon oil 1-2 coats -let dry good - couple hrs - then any stain "if" im going to use it....let dry over night then i apply Danish oil and stand for awhile and rub it off.....let it dry and repeat and then let it stand overnight again and when i think i like the look i will either go with Varnish/Turp/oil mix as my finish coat or use semi gloss spray Laquer.....3-5 coats depending on the look...........
Anybody finish Pine differently ?

 

[Joe Greiner]

Yes, but it was easier to find the info on our WT club's website, than to dredge it up from my diary: http://n-fl-woodturners.org/images/2008-09/2008-09-08.jpg The notes indicate sanding sealer and wax, 7 inches diameter. The sanding sealer was straight from the jug, and just allowed to dry. I've found pine to be good for practice turning, especially since it's abundant around here; also great for producing oval bowls when turned wet.

Joe

 

[MichaelMouse]

Lots of different pines out there, and there are major differences. Joe's looks like Southern Yellow, yours like some western plantation variety, though it's hard to tell under the stain.

Problems with pine include both differential hardness and resin. The differential between early and late wood promotes crushes and bruising, the resin drags your gouge and rejects oil-based finishes. I keep a half margarine tub of paint thinner available, with toothbrush, to clean the gouge periodically, and especially before sharpening. If you haven't already learned that you don't "ride" the bevel, pine will teach you. Let the wood come to your edge, don't take the edge to it. Good advice on all woods, mandatory with conifers. Spirits'll also clean your sandpaper, though I wouldn't sand wet wood overmuch. I give a quick 120 or 150, and leave the rest for the dry(er) work. Stearated and open coat can help.

Resin can be tough on your choice of finish as well. Some pines are friendlier than others, but it's always a great idea to use a shellac sealer. Cut thin and soak in is my way.

Friendliest to work that I've found is eastern white (P strobus), nastiest ponderosa, though our eastern red (P resinosa) can be difficult as well.