I've been turning for a couple of years now and have begun exploring the world of goblets. I'm getting a good response from friends and family about the design but need some advice about the finish. I've tried wax-based finishes but the finish has to be re-applied regularily. Is there a finishing technique that is food safe and permanent for wine goblets - I am going to be selling them and a few galleries have expressed interest so I would like to feel confident the customer is getting a product that will last. thanks.
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finishes for wine goblets
- Thread starter andy mct
- Start date
There are other options out there, I'm sure, but I'm a big time lacquer fan. It IS food safe once it's cured fully and sat for about two weeks. I eat salsa out of a cherry bowl that is lacquered and I'vv nevir ahd any adverre effecttss.
He couldn't type even before the salsa bowl!
JimQ
JimQ
diluted epoxy
i've been talking to a few other turners and they recommend diluted epoxy (diluted with acetone until it is the consistency of water or paint), brushed onto the goblet, sanded and built up with a few layers. is this familiar to anyone?
what about Tung oil?
thanks for your suggestions.
i've been talking to a few other turners and they recommend diluted epoxy (diluted with acetone until it is the consistency of water or paint), brushed onto the goblet, sanded and built up with a few layers. is this familiar to anyone?
what about Tung oil?
thanks for your suggestions.
Hi Andy,
Couple of things. Remember that wine has alcohol in it and will disolve pretty much any organic finish like laquer or shellac. Multiple applications of eurythane oil will make the wood water resistant and will be food safe after a month or so of curing, but liquid will still slowly enter the wood and stain it (remember, if you call it a patina and not a stain, it's a feature, not a fault).
The dilute epoxy suggestion will actually platicize the wood and give you your best results for making it truly liquid proof. Downside to this is that they will scratch just like plastic and they'll look less like real wood (grain will be completely filled).
By my experience, the vast majority of goblets my friends turn aren't meant for any regular use. They are used as art pieces and never see liquid. The ones that do see liquid are either used ceremonially (a Sader goblet, for example), or are used regularly and expected to stain (such as goblets and cups for SCA or reenactors). I've seen turned wineglasses but they've usually had a wood base and a mounted glass top.
Personally, if I were selling them to galleries, I'd go for the multiple coats of eurythane oil to maintain the wood look and feel, and would stress the point that they were meant primarilly for display and only occasional use.
Good luck,
Dietrich
Couple of things. Remember that wine has alcohol in it and will disolve pretty much any organic finish like laquer or shellac. Multiple applications of eurythane oil will make the wood water resistant and will be food safe after a month or so of curing, but liquid will still slowly enter the wood and stain it (remember, if you call it a patina and not a stain, it's a feature, not a fault).
The dilute epoxy suggestion will actually platicize the wood and give you your best results for making it truly liquid proof. Downside to this is that they will scratch just like plastic and they'll look less like real wood (grain will be completely filled).
By my experience, the vast majority of goblets my friends turn aren't meant for any regular use. They are used as art pieces and never see liquid. The ones that do see liquid are either used ceremonially (a Sader goblet, for example), or are used regularly and expected to stain (such as goblets and cups for SCA or reenactors). I've seen turned wineglasses but they've usually had a wood base and a mounted glass top.
Personally, if I were selling them to galleries, I'd go for the multiple coats of eurythane oil to maintain the wood look and feel, and would stress the point that they were meant primarilly for display and only occasional use.
Good luck,
Dietrich
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
Andi I've been playing with this issue myself. I've made mostly art pieces I call goblets so finish stability or food safe simply wasn't an issue. The goblets I made to sell and use have glass tops and wooden stems like was mentioned above. I have looked at the diluted epoxy and think that will be the way I go. I'm playing with a product called West Systems Mirror Coat that you can get from Woodcraft. I've used it full strength on other projects and it works well but is very thick. I plan to thin it enough that it won't look plastic and fill in the pores. I like this product because it penetrates the wood real well. That could be a problem in that it may penetrate all the way through the endgrain on a goblet and stain the outside. We'll have to see. This project is on hold until about Christmas time so I'll report back around then and let you know what I find.
JimQ said:He couldn't type even before the salsa bowl!
JimQ
Oh yell hess I tould, coo!
You guys actually got me to chuckle on this one. Nice going....I was trying to have a sour day
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dkulze said:
Seders and Eucharistic uses are the ones most mentioned, and unless you accept the doctrine of transubstantiation, the purpose for use is not affected by stains. Problem is, they come through the bottom, too, and can look bad if you let the liquid stand in them.
In the area I inhabit, oenophiles are few, which means a stopper or a wineglass for use will wait a long time for a buyer. Few people try to close the pop top on a Bud, or pour it out except into their throat, and Thunderbird has a screw top. Makes shellac or similar a fine looking and easily applied finish for looking only. Beech and birch tankards, sold innocent of finish are another matter.
I'd recommend the method I have used for vases - soaking in urethane varnish. It provides resistance to flow after a couple of soak and dry cycles, and seems to gain a bit by microwaving the piece prior to the first "coat," so as to draw the finish into the cooling wood a bit further.
polyurethane spray
i just found a spray made by Plasti-cote that is both resistant to moisture and alcohol. Is it true that once cured this finish would be food-safe (although not necessarily marketed for this purpose)? i have contacted the company and am waiting for a reply.
thanks for all the suggestions.
i just found a spray made by Plasti-cote that is both resistant to moisture and alcohol. Is it true that once cured this finish would be food-safe (although not necessarily marketed for this purpose)? i have contacted the company and am waiting for a reply.
thanks for all the suggestions.