cleaning tools/toolrests post green wood

[gsieracki]

Just a quick question on what everyone uses to clean-up their toolrests
and tools post turning green wood.

I turned a piece of freshly cut Norfolk Pine and had some residue on a
couple toolrests and the backside and hollow of some gouges.

Thanks!

Gerry

 

[Rob Wallace]

Mineral spirits and steel wool, usually......

Gerry:

I normally cover the ways with cardboard or taped-down plastic when doing a green-turning session....obviously trying to protect the metal surfaces from accumulating sprayed water and other 'gunk' [technical term'] from the rotating blank.

Typically, I use mineral spirits to remove stubborn resin/sap after I have wiped everything down with a dry paper towel, or sometimes a water-moistened cloth towel to remove the water-soluble sap, etc.. If necessary, I wet a piece of steel wool (O or OO) with mineral spirits if the surfaces are really in need of some scrubbing. I then do another wipe-down immediately with fresh mineral spirits to remove remaining sap residue, oils, resins, etc., blow dry the freshly cleaned surfaces with compressed air, and then seal these with TopCote. (Don't use lacquer thinner, unless you want to trash the paint job on your equipment!) Rarely do I have rust problems, and my banjo and tailstock almost always move very smoothly. Any rust on the ways, tool rests, etc. is removed with a fine rubberized 'block-type' abrasive prior to sealing. BTW - Others use paste wax as a surface protectant, but a published review some time ago (I think in Wood Magazine??) showed that Boeshield T-9 or Top Cote provided more protection to the cast iron surfaces of the tools tested than did a paste wax coat.

I have heard of others that use WD-40 as a solvent for resins and sap on their lathe beds, tool rest, banjo, etc. and to remove accumulated resin on gouges. I have not gone that route, since my experience has shown that the WD-40 residue can attract and hold fine dust, which I would rather not have around the nooks and crannies of the banjo or headstock/tailstock. On gouges, a bit of steel wool works OK to clean up the gouge surfaces, as does a used sanding disc (240 or 320 are usually what I reach for from the trash). Sometimes it helps to wet the offending gunk with mineral spirits first.

This is what I do - Interested to know what others do...

Rob Wallace

 

[wdspinner]

I don't cover the lathe bed when turning green wood. But like Rob, I do clean it all up after turning with mineral spirits and 0000 steelwool, the wipe down with papertowels, wipe down dry, and apply a fresh coat of Johnsons Paste Wax. I use this paste wax on all my cast iron surfaces, and even here in the humid area of Arkansas, I rarely have any rust on the cast iron surfaces. The wax also help keep the tailstock and toolrest moving easily on the lathe bed.

I may not be exactly correct, but that's what I do.

 

[Brian Hahn]

I usually wipe everything with a damp rag, one with some texture like an old wash cloth. Then I wipe it dry with an old soft cotton rag (old T-shirt). The real stubborn gunk on the tool rest or the backs of the tools might need a little extra persuasion from an old toothbrush or an abrasive pad.

 

[Charlie Harley]

WD-40 is a pretty good solvent for tree sap, and it's good for the metal too.

 

[jdsilwones]

Ballistol.

 

[GeorgeH]

Turpentine

 

[waltben]

I do much what everyone else has said, but don't use steel wool for anything - I use fiber abrasive pad material instead. It comes in various abrasiveness and large sheets can be cut into smaller ones. I use it to remove or abrade finishes on bowls as well as cleaning tools. It leaves no metal particles behind anywhere and can be washed with soap and water if you so desire. If you just want to try it out, pick up two or three different grades at your local supermarket - you'll see the difference.

 

[hockenbery]

Ballistol

Don Geiger introduced us to BALLIST0L shortly after we moved to Florida.

It is an oil that dries and protects metal surfaces. It lasts about a week when turning a lot of green wood.

This is the best product I have used. It takes overnight to dry but once dry it doesn't seem to get on the wood if used on saw tables etc. It keeps the tailstocks and banjos sliding freely on the lathe. I was a big wd40 fan.

I prefer using it as a preventative but it works great for clean-up too

Don always has a booth at the Florida Sympsoium.

A less effective preventive car waxing the surfaces. I lasts about 2 day when turning a lot and take about. 4 times longer to apply than Ballistol

happy turning,
Al

 

[Hugh]

I am a WD-40 fan. I use steelwool with WD-40 to clean up the lathe bed, etc. Then I wipe it down with an old towel and then spray a light coat before I quit. I get a little rust when I am turning wet oak wood, but it comes off with a little WD-40. I do try to keep the bed of the lathe clear of shavings on a regular basis when turning so they do not sit there too long. I have never had any problem with sap - it cleans up as well.
Hugh

 

[Frank Kobilsek]

I use 3-in-One oil. Run a bead down each way and scrub with 0000 steel wool. Wipe clean with paper towel. I need to wipe it pretty dry or sawdust will stick. Best done at the end of the day.
Frank

 

[Brujo]

I use acetone to clean the ways and tools. Than use a little LPS or what ever other spray silicon lubricant I happen to have.

 

[Al Chavez]

Just reviving this thread to see what else people may be using on their tools and ways. I am especially wanting to clean my tools before sharpening them on CBN wheels. Any other suggestions?
Al

 

[John Walls]

Before sharpening, if residue exists I can't knock off with a wrag, I spray with WD40 and run a green scrubby across it. Do before you sharpen. Most time spray it and wipe with rag, gets most or all of it off.

 

[Doug Freeman]

I clean tools off with household ammonia. Spray it on wipe it off. Let stubborn accumulation soak a minute or 2. Rubbing with cloth or paper towel wet with ammonia also works. I clean saw blades (round and band) and router bits with it as well.

Tool rests and bed ways - scotchbrite nonwoven abrasive with paste wax.

 

[Keith Mombourquette]

I keep a spray bottle with cleaning vinegar next to my grinder. I spray it on and wipe off to remove residue from my gouges before sharpening on my CBN wheels. Works well for me.

 

[Robert D Evans]

Ballistol is great stuff. You can clean your guns, leather gear, oil your wooden stocks, and use it for treatment on minor wounds. The German army issued it to soldiers during WWI. It's a little more expensive than WD40 and non-toxic.

 

[John Hicks]

I like a light coating of T9 as it prevents any rust and is easy to clean off.

 

[John Torchick]

Ballistol is great stuff. You can clean your guns, leather gear, oil your wooden stocks, and use it for treatment on minor wounds. The German army issued it to soldiers during WWI. It's a little more expensive than WD40 and non-toxic.

I agree! Great stuff. For cleaning tools, I use acetone and wipe with WD-40 or Ballistol. Before turning, I clean that off with DNA. Kerosene is a good solvent...base ingredient in Hoppe's No. 9 powder solvent. My father used to clean my BB gun with a shot of diesel fuel.

 

[robo hippy]

If every thing is still wet, then a handful of shavings will wipe tools off 'clean enough'. If they are crusty and sat out over night, I keep a wire wheel on one grinder for that purpose.

robo hippy

 

[John Torchick]

Old toothbrushes have a multitude of uses. Have several all throughout the house.

 

[Kevin Weir]

I always cover the lathe bed with an old towel when turning or coring green wood. Also, I usually wax the bed before with paste wax beforehand just in case some shavings find their way past the towel.