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Advice for turning a Hosaluk style vessel

Joined
Jun 6, 2015
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On page 45 of the new American Woodturner there are pictures of two elongated "bowls" made by Mr. Hosaluk. I have often wondered how these are produced? Are they spindle turnings which are then cut in half followed by the inside being hollowed by carving? The outside profile seems more elliptical so I'm wondering if they are cut apart, a section removed and then glued back together before carving out the interior. I've watched numerous videos of his but don't seem to recall the technique. Does anyone know of any articles that were published discussing his procedure? Any insights would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Bill
 

john lucas

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It is a hollowed vase that is cut up. I did it with scrap.wood and a paper joint. I wanted less than half the vase for each half so the scrap wood filled in the space.
 
Joined
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Location
Northfield, MN
It is a hollowed vase that is cut up. I did it with scrap.wood and a paper joint. I wanted less than half the vase for each half so the scrap wood filled in the space.
Thanks John, on his dvd he shows a long spindle that is then hollowed. If I understand you correctly the other version is to make a hollowed vase, separate it and then glue the two halves back together end to end?
 

john lucas

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Yea that's correct. Some people turn a spindle with a paper joint, split it and then glue it into the boat shape. Carve out the inside off the lathe.
 
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longbowltry1.jpg
Here is my first test piece. I glued 2 blocks together with paper in the joint turned the outside then supported it with a steady rest and turned the inside. The idea of using a butt joint on end grain didn't seam like something that would stay together with out some sort of help so I tried the zig zag and that has the added benefit of being self aligning. The V on the edge is due to the fact that I started cutting the Vs with the corner of the router bit on the paper joint then cut 9 of the Vs at 0,20,40 - 180 and switched to 190, 210, - 350 degrees for the second half. The next one I will set up so the long point is at the paper joint and that will likely eliminate the notch. The bowl will be about 15" long when the ends are carved off.
 

john lucas

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As.soon as i saw your photo I knew what you had done. Pretty cool. What I do for end grain to end grain is to do what is called size the joint. Apply glue and let it soak in a little. Then apply more. Assemble the joint and clamp.it. it improves the strength tremendously. I did a.strength test of end grain.to end grain joints and amazed at how weak they are. I used CA , polyurethane, yellow glue and several.brands of epoxy. All.failed.with the slightest weight except the sized PVA glue joint and epoxie. Epoxie was far better. I should do the same test on the zig zag joint to see if its stronger than the flat.joint.
 
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Michael Hosaluk did a workshop for our club and it was amazing to watch him glue stuff together without clamps just as John describes. I think he suggested leaving them sit over night after the first application of glue. When you put on the second coat and press the pieces together, though, be ready, because in about 10 seconds, they're going to be stuck right where they are, right or wrong. Michael would kind of rub the sides of the joint against each other to speed the setting, but in my hands, I'd only end up with something glued off line. Now I just put them together and kind of vibrate them (and with less than an hour of 80 grit, they turn out pretty good:D) No clamps required. The horns on my avatar were done that way (the concept totally stolen from Michael's work)
 
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longBowl1.jpg
Here is the finished test piece, the zig zag joint held up to the hand carving on the ends, but I am not sure if it is worth the trouble. MH's painted one with the creatures looking out are much more appealing.
 
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