Morse taper dangers

[john lucas]

A morse taper is designed to push not pull. I know many of you know this but thought it worth reminding. A morse taper is designed to be pushed against. When drilling holes on the lathe you should get into a habit of holding the chuck when pulling the drill out. Also clear the drill frequently so it doesn't bind in the hole. this and vibration can loosen the chuck and make it come loose in the tailstock.
I was doing photos for a future article this morning and had to let the drill chuck loose while I worked the camera. I'll be I've done this many times and this is the first time I've ever had it come loose on my. Fortunately it only did repairable damage to the workpiece but as you can see ruined my drill.

 

[John Teichert]

Yikes John, glad that nothing serious happened. Every time I watch a YouTube video where someone pulls back a tailstock without holding the chuck I wince. And yes, DAMHIKT

Cheers, JT

 

[Bill Boehme]

I see that you have a Bridge City ruler.

And, yes, a stuck drill can cause all sorts of roblems. I think that drilling from the headstock and using a drawbar is a better way to go.

 

[Mike Peace]

Bill, your way would be safer drilling a hole for a tool handle. But how would that work with boring the center hole for a hollow form?

 

[Bill Boehme]

Bill, your way would be safer drilling a hole for a tool handle. But how would that work with boring the center hole for a hollow form?

If the HF isn't too heavy, the chuck can be hung on the live center. I have drilled the holes by hand just holding the drill chuck (not in the tailstock). I have also done it by hand holding a gun drill or simply plunging a spindle gouge straight into the wood.

 

[odie]

Bill, your way would be safer drilling a hole for a tool handle. But how would that work with boring the center hole for a hollow form?

Mike.......

For the purpose, possibly one of these reversing chuck adaptors might work:

http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p...Reverse-Chucking-Alignment-Adapter?term=chuck reverse adaptor

I have one of these, and can't remember why I originally bought it, but every once in awhile, it comes in mighty handy.

ooc

 

[john lucas]

Drilling from the headstock works sometimes but not others. What I did yesterday was expand on Lyle's idea of using a pin in the quill and locks the morse taper in place. I drilled a hole and tapped it for 1/4 x 28. Then ground a flat on my drill chuck morse taper and put a short set screw in the quill. That locks it quite well. I told Lyle about it and he suggested that your average turner never saw a tap and doesn't know how to use one (and he's correct) so the pin is easier.

 

[Bill Boehme]

Drilling from the headstock works sometimes but not others. What I did yesterday was expand on Lyle's idea of using a pin in the quill and locks the morse taper in place. I drilled a hole and tapped it for 1/4 x 28. Then ground a flat on my drill chuck morse taper and put a short set screw in the quill. That locks it quite well. I told Lyle about it and he suggested that your average turner never saw a tap and doesn't know how to use one (and he's correct) so the pin is easier. View attachment 7003

Lyle? As in Lyle Jamieson? I haven't heard about it. Can you fill me in or point to more information on the web? I would think that using a set screw means that you need to be very careful to have the flat line up with the screw or else run the risk of having a stuck Morse taper if the set screw puts a divot in the wrong place.

BTW, when I bought a couple EWT faceplates, the came with a different kind of setscrew. Typically, the setscrews found at hardware stores have a sharp cup on the end that digs into the mating surface. The EWT setscrews have a rounded button on the end that provides solid locking without damaging the metal on the spindle. I don't know why nobody else has ever thought of using this idea where the setscrew is not meant to be permanent.

 

[Hu Lowery]

brass tipped set screws

Bill,

You can buy brass set screws and set screws with brass or nylon tips. I used to have to lock down on a threaded shaft in a collar and used a brass tipped set screw. It didn't last too long in that application but it was meant to be sacrificial. Dropping a pure lead BB or pellet in a hole works fine too.

Hu

 

[Sandy Jarrell]

Bill,

Lyle talks about using a pin in the tailstock to hold a drill chuck in one of his videos. I think it was his first hollowing video.

 

[Bill Boehme]

Bill,

You can buy brass set screws and set screws with brass or nylon tips. I used to have to lock down on a threaded shaft in a collar and used a brass tipped set screw. It didn't last too long in that application but it was meant to be sacrificial. Dropping a pure lead BB or pellet in a hole works fine too.

Hu

I am familiar with those,, but the ones from EWT are all steel with a rounded nose with the same profile as the brass tipped setscrews.

Bill,

Lyle talks about using a pin in the tailstock to hold a drill chuck in one of his videos. I think it was his first hollowing video.

Thanks, Sandy. See you tonight if you're going to be at the meeting.

 

[Hu Lowery]

thought you had to be . . .

I am familiar with those,, but the ones from EWT are all steel with a rounded nose with the same profile as the brass tipped setscrews.

Bill,

I thought you had to be familiar with the ones with inserts but seemed odd you would go to the ball end set screw to avoid damage if you were. A ball end dimples and mushrooms a ridge around the dimple causing issues with close tolerance fits too unless there is a relief cut as you were talking about to begin with, a flat or whatever. The ball might do less damage but it's main advantage is the single center point contact if you are tying something together that can't walk around while tightening. Too, if I want to exactly locate something I put it together once, barely dimple the shaft with a round tipped set screw, then make a dimple or drill a shallow hole in the shaft there to locate the pieces for future assemblies.

Everything but tiny regular set screws, I bevel the end on the screw to avoid damaging threads if it isn't already beveled and just file a flat face on them. Not perfect but OK for most things.

Hu

 

[Bill Boehme]

Maybe I'll see if I can get a picture, but anyway it doesn't really have a ball end, it is more like a flat end with the corners eased over so the contact starts out slightly more than a single point not that dimpling should be a problem. I don't think that these screws are hardened like the cup style set screws. Also, when it isn't intended to be permanently installed, it doesn't really need to be torqued down any more than what you can do by holding the short end of an Allen wrench (no cheating by using Vise Grips).

 

[Hu Lowery]

you're no fun!

Maybe I'll see if I can get a picture, but anyway it doesn't really have a ball end, it is more like a flat end with the corners eased over so the contact starts out slightly more than a single point not that dimpling should be a problem. I don't think that these screws are hardened like the cup style set screws. Also, when it isn't intended to be permanently installed, it doesn't really need to be torqued down any more than what you can do by holding the short end of an Allen wrench (no cheating by using Vise Grips).

You're no fun! Just for the record though, I use a crescent wrench or a box end wrench as the cheater bar for my allen wrenches, never vice grips!

I do understand what you are saying about the set screws, they have a bit more surface area than just the usual ridges left around the outside of the set screws sold bulk.

Hu