high shine

[Gary Chapman]

Has anyone ever used fine rubbing compound to put that slick, shinny finish on their work? I use a lot of gloss ,spray poly on my work and sometimes I get a bit of dust particles that just won't come out with buffing with the beal system. Thanks for your input. Gary

 

[john lucas]

that is essentially what the Beal Buffing system is. It's just 2 different grits of rubbing compound followed by a wax wheel. When I need a superior gloss to a piece if sand the finish to 600 grit followed by different automotive rubbing compounds and swirl remover.

 

[Bill Boehme]

Has anyone ever used fine rubbing compound to put that slick, shinny finish on their work? I use a lot of gloss ,spray poly on my work and sometimes I get a bit of dust particles that just won't come out with buffing with the beal system. Thanks for your input. Gary

My method is to use Micromesh to polish a lacquer finish. I have a Beal buffing system, but rarely use it because it does not give me the gloss that I want and it is not really good for leveling a lacquer finish. To me, it seem to just make make the imperfections more visible.

 

[MichaelMouse]

Bubbles and dust just become shiny bubbles and dust when you buff. Have to level first with fine abrasive over some form of support so it can bridge the imperfection. Never sprayed the stuff, but a final coat of wiping dilution self-levels pretty well.

 

[Richard Coers]

Bubbles and dust just become shiny bubbles and dust when you buff. Have to level first with fine abrasive over some form of support so it can bridge the imperfection. Never sprayed the stuff, but a final coat of wiping dilution self-levels pretty well.

Well said. Every finish will be improved with sanding. Spray finishes will always have some level (pun, get it?) of orange peel as well. The finish is never dead flat. Very fine abrasives and compounds are easily available at auto paint suppliers. If you ask for buffing compounds though, you will get some pretty agressive material. Polishing comound is the more appropriate description.

 

[odie]

If anyone relies on the Beale buff system to remove visible imperfections, then the problem isn't the Beale buff system......this boils down to preparation of the surface prior to that point. As was mentioned in this thread, the Beale buff is a progressive method of applying two very fine grits of polishing compounds prior to applying the Carnauba wax polish......but, the thing that is important to grasp, is if you can see imperfections, the Beale buff method will seldom remove it. It will make it slightly better, but a finish that you cannot see imperfections is what is needed to begin with.

For an example that most every turner can understand...... If you fail to get the best surface you can get at 220gt, then it's darn near impossible to remove it once you're working on 400, or 600. The problem isn't with the 400 or 600 papers......the problem is with the preparation of that surface prior to using 400, or 600 grits.

The Beale buff system improves the finish with each step, but the key, once again, is it doesn't do well with removing anything you can see with your eye. Always check the surface under a good light source, and tilt the bowl so that you can see the surface with the light at several different angles. Sometimes an imperfect surface will look fine......until you get a good look with the light coming from a different angle.

You can improve that surface either before or after an application of Danish oil (My preferred finish). With bare wood, the solution is to go back to whatever grit necessary, and remove it. Then progress as usual through the finer grits. It's not required with every bowl, but sometimes sanding requires a final step of random orbital sanding.......for me, usually at 400 grit.

Sometimes scratches, swirls, imperfections are much more noticeable after an application of finish. It's best to deal with bare wood, but after the finish is applied (and dry), very fine imperfections can still be removed with a re-application of the finish, and wet-sanding with 0000 steel wool. It can be done by hand for very minor touch-up, but I've been using a variable speed drill at a very slow speed to speed up wet-sanding to a reasonable amount of time doing it. The steel wool is used off the lathe, and on a stationary bowl.

Remember, the Beale buff progressively makes a surface better, but doesn't do well with visible imperfections. If you've already applied the Beale buff.....then your "goose is cooked". The only thing you can do, at that point, is to go back to some fine sandpapers.....then re-apply the finish. Due to my turning methods, it's one heck of a major operation to re-sand on the lathe.......so, if you've gone this far and haven't dealt with imperfections at the earliest possible point that it can be done, the only thing left that can be done is re-sand a stationary bowl. Aaaargh!

There is a sign on the wall where I work. It says "Do it right, the first time". That applies with each and every step of turning bowls on a lathe. It's much easier to go forward.......than backwards!

ooc

 

[davidwalser]

I echo what others have said about using sandpaper (or some other abrasive) to level the surface of the finish before buffing. Once you've done that, I recommend Don Pencil's "PL" compound and wheel (PL stands for plastic and lacquer). It does wonders on a hard film finish like lacquer and shellac. I've used it to buff out the tiny scratches in my face shield (took some time, but it worked well).

Here's a link: http://www.donpencil.com/PL BUFFING.htm

 

[Bill Boehme]

If anyone relies on the Beale buff system to remove visible imperfections, then the problem isn't the Beale buff system......

I think that you did an excellent job of stating what needs to be done to get a properly leveled and smooth finish. To reemphasize what you said, a Beale buffing system polishes the surface that you have when you start buffing. It will not create that finish as a substitute for the necessary work to get to that point. Elbow grease is still needed.

 

[odie]

I think that you did an excellent job of stating what needs to be done to get a properly leveled and smooth finish. To reemphasize what you said, a Beale buffing system polishes the surface that you have when you start buffing. It will not create that finish as a substitute for the necessary work to get to that point. Elbow grease is still needed.

Yes, of course, Bill.......and, thanks.

One thing I should have added, is my post covers finishes similar to my preferred Danish oil, and may not cover the needs of those using other finishes. Those finishes that harden on the surface, rather than soak into the interior, have a different set of circumstances entirely. These may have flaws in the finish itself which will require a method of smoothing the finish, rather than the wood.

ooc

 

[Dennis Nagle]

I have been painting custom choppers with Ron Finch for 20 years now. I don't work for him we are just very good friends and consider the paint job the real art. The number one key issue and process of a great paint job is the surface prep!!! End of story. You can only get good results of the surface is primed properly then sanded to at least 400 grit wet. Every other lay you put on also needs to be sanded, then the final layer of clear coat needs to be buffed with what Beale calls the Beal system but has been used since before the turn of the century.

For wood, that means sanding down to at least 400 grit then spray on or wipe on lacquer or two part epoxy, then wet sanding so the entire surface is grayed out and even, then do it again. Then do it again, then repeat. When you get the build up you want, you should wet sand to 600 grit, then buff with rouge, white diamond, then Carnuba wax

It take more coats to build up a high high shine with lacquer then epoxy.

I am turning a couple pieces this week that Ron and I will treat just like a custom paint job just to see how they turn out. I am thinking the shine will be stunning.

 

[Steve Worcester]

Beal system works good, but leaves direction buffing marks, while small, it does work fine for most woodturning.
You don't have to primer wood, you can use the same finish to build up to the point of leveling the finish out for wet sanding and buffing. I use an intercoat clear, which is basically the medium they would use for mixing the color pigments, but a single stage, not as hard and no UV inhibitors. Then a clear coat over the top. Granted, this is the same steps as you would paint a car or motorcycle, but no need to primer. Shooting lacquer is a whole lot easier. Single product, usually interlinking with little in between coat work, fast drying, but won't shine as good.

But painters that shoot out of a gun who are good, there is no buffing stage. And that is the best finish you will ever see. (And I rarely get that finish)