Cherry Burls?

[Robert Feingold]

These growths do not seem typical for burls. The shapes are irregular and the surfaces are spikey. I've seen many cherry trees like this on the north shore of Long Island, NY. I can have this tree but do not want it if these are not burls. Anybody know?
Thanks, Rob

 

[Steve Doerr]

Cherry Burls

Robert,
I don't know why, but that seems to be the way cherry burls in the Ozarks are. Last winter I must have picked up about 15 to 20 like that from a construction site by me. You will find that they have the typical look of burl and make for some nice turnings. I have used them for pens, bowls and HF's and will be trying some pendants soon. Some I have cut the pith out of and others I have left "log" shaped to turn end grain. Just be sure to seal the ends, I use paraffin. I don't think you will be disappointed.
Happy turning,
Steve

 

[hockenbery]

My experience with cherry burls is a bit mixed.
Some are so full of bark inclusions as to be worthless in that there is not enough structure to mount them safely.
Others spectacular!

Definitely worth checking out.

Be safe,
Al

 

[MichaelMouse]

If the price is right, risk it. When I'm playing burls I like to have medium CA and flakes of cherry bark close at hand to firm and fill exposed bark pockets. I will change design in order to avoid a floating piece which depends on glue alone to keep from flinging. Must be a good tab of sound wood.

If you lose a couple, it's still practice.

 

[robo hippy]

I have seen two types of cherry burls. One looks kind of like layers of lava flow, and don't hold up well, lots of bark inclusions, pitch pockets, and empty space. The other one I got long ago came from a tree where the farmer would burn off the sap sprouts on the base every year. I showed a turned piece to another turner, and he said, that is big leaf maple burl, not cherry, because it looked identical, but the smell of the wood gave it away as cherry. Those burls look like good ones.

robo hippy

 

[Malcolm Ray]

Those are typical of the ones we have here in Maine.......they are all good,holes and inclusions make them more interesting.....and holes bring another $50 each......or more

 

[hockenbery]

I love voids in turned pieces. Just be sure there is enough structure to mount it safely.
I have had cheery burls I pulled apart by hand. Don't want to cut through all the support.

When you rough the outside you can see what is holding it together.
When hollowing I often tape or tape with wire support. Any little parts that might start vibrating.

Have fun,Al

 

[Andrew Finnigan]

Cherry Burls

Robert,

Im upstate, and I've worked with local cherry burls that look nearly identical to these. My advice would be grab them, before it starts getting too warm. Im sure that once you get to turning them you'll be glad you did. Granted the cost is reasonable.

If you do decide to get them, keep in mind that there will be a fairly thick layer of bark and most likely plenty of voids, as already mentioned. The cherry burls up by me are often riddled with nasty insect activity, so take precautions before bringing them into your shop/home. When I get a batch of cherry burl, I will often briefly bathe them in mineral spirits to kill the bugs then power wash them to remove debris. Just be careful and have fun!

-Andy

 

[George Van Beynen]

I get a batch of cherry burl, I will often briefly bathe them in mineral spirits to kill the bugs then power wash them to remove debris. Just be careful and have fun! -Andy

Andy, I like your mineral spirits treatment. I will give it a try the next time the critters are on the march.

 

[Bob Comerford]

I just finished a natural-edged one. It was like turning a sponge. It's around 8 x 4 inches and the most beautiful grain, rot, spalting, etc. I've seen. There were bark, wood, grunge, sow bugs, centipedes and ants flying everywhere while turning it. I used way too much CA to keep it together and sealed-in a whole family of ants with CA. I'll take all the nasty, hairy, Cherry burls I can find, the bigger the better. I like the idea of soaking in mineral spirits to kill the bugs. Will try that on the next one.

 

[MichaelMouse]

I like the idea of soaking in mineral spirits to kill the bugs. Will try that on the next one.

Try close bagging with moth balls. Fumigation for a week or two will work its way into places the MS will never reach. The smell will go quickly as you turn.

 

[Jeff Gilfor]

I think they are wasps nests; but to be on the safe side, why don't you harvest them and ship them to me? Of course, I will pay for the shipping, and will let you know if I was right ;-)

 

[Gretch Flo]

cherry burl

I have turned quite a few small "holey", cracked cherry burls. I am surprised by its endurance. Almost like the barked cracks have become "petrified". Oak burl was more friable, what little of that I turned (per another thread). Gretch

 

[Bob Comerford]

Neighbor gave me another Cherry burl last week. I halved it and put one of them on the lathe. I got the outside done but it sort of exploded when I was working on the inside. It was pretty cracky and soft and had way too much of a bark inclusion to stay together. I'll try the other half in a few days.

But I got to use the log processing "center" I made from the plans on mnwoodturners.com. It really worked well. I was getting sick and tired of chasing rounds with a chainsaw trying to cut them for the lathe. The LPC made it easy. I don't know how I made it this long without cutting off one appendage or another wresting blanks out of logs.

 

[craterdog]

Cherry burls

Something worth mentioning about turning burls-it is critical to turn the outside of the piece and then stop and examine it very carefully. You need to look for cracks, punky areas and thin sections that can break when you're turning the inside. In many cases, cracks need to be filled with the material of your choice, punky areas reinforced with CA and thin sections strengthened with an inlay or by other means. It may still be a good idea to wrap the piece with tape after you've taken these steps but they are necessary to prevent shrapnel in the shop!
Tim Carter

 

[Bill Boehme]

... I got the outside done but it sort of exploded when I was working on the inside. It was pretty cracky and soft and had way too much of a bark inclusion to stay together. I'll try the other half in a few days....

Unless you are talking about really small burls (pen and bottle stopper size), I think that from a safety perspective you are treating the potential problems far too casually. While it might be a disappointment if an "interesting" piece of wood flies apart on the lathe, it might be far worse if one of those pieces hits you. Don't let a faceshield give you a false sense of security.

 

[hockenbery]

Something worth mentioning about turning burls-it is critical to turn the outside of the piece and then stop and examine it very carefully. You need to look for cracks, punky areas and thin sections that can break when you're turning the inside. In many cases, cracks need to be filled with the material of your choice, punky areas reinforced with CA and thin sections strengthened with an inlay or by other means. It may still be a good idea to wrap the piece with tape after you've taken these steps but they are necessary to prevent shrapnel in the shop!
Tim Carter

This is good practice on any wood.
Burls have voids, bark inclusions, wood structure that may not connect to the wood next to it.
I also listen and stop and look at shape and structure while turning the inside.

For burls voids are common sometimes tape will come across a void and you will cut it when hollowing.
I make rings with soft wire that hold the tape in a round shaper as it goes across the voided

Be safe
Al

 

[Steven Antonucci]

Yep... they are burls. You should have brought them yesterday...

 

[Robert Feingold]

Steve, we have not yet cut down that tree yet but I'll save a couple for you. Should be in the gal when my friend starts his expansion.
Rob

 

[Robert Feingold]

In the fall