A lot of turners sign and date their work. I am being encouraged to do so. I understand there are plug-ins that burn your name/date into the bottom of your work. Can anybody direct me to them?
TIA
Paul
TIA
Paul
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Signing your work
- Thread starter Paul A Andrews
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There are a number of styles of custom electric branding irons. I haven't heard of any that include the date. The ones that I know about only work on flat wood surfaces. That would not be satisfactory for signing turnings. I have had some of my turnings laser engraved, but decided that made my work have a machine made look. I now prefer using either a Dremel engraver or a wood burning pen. I use a Detail Master woodburner with a writing tip. It takes a lot of practice to use a burner well. A third option is to use an ink pen.
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odie
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I also have the Detail Master, and it's a good one. Many different tips available, and your creative mind can go crazy with woodburning!
If all you want to do is sign your name and date, you might want to consider the Cub.
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p...-Cub-Woodwriter-Pyrographic-Burner/little+cub
My Cub has been in constant use for about 25 years......not a single problem with it. All I ever do with it is burn my personal logo on bowls, and it's good for that! It looks a little different, and the name has changed over the current version, but the internal components are the same......
ooc
.
If all you want to do is sign your name and date, you might want to consider the Cub.
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p...-Cub-Woodwriter-Pyrographic-Burner/little+cub
My Cub has been in constant use for about 25 years......not a single problem with it. All I ever do with it is burn my personal logo on bowls, and it's good for that! It looks a little different, and the name has changed over the current version, but the internal components are the same......
ooc
.
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john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
I have looked at the logo burners but most of them seem too large and they are quite expensive. A pyrography burner works well if you practice and you can use it for adding designs as well. I use a Dremel engraver. It makes a very subtle looking signature. However you can fill the engraving with gold or other colored wax for a much classier look.
I had one of the less expensive wood burners (think it might have been the Cub) and could never sign with a neat signature. When I stepped up to the Optima I could. It controls the heat at the tip much better and makes for a more consistent line. The Burnmaster and other top of the line burners do this as well so they are worth the extra money.
I had one of the less expensive wood burners (think it might have been the Cub) and could never sign with a neat signature. When I stepped up to the Optima I could. It controls the heat at the tip much better and makes for a more consistent line. The Burnmaster and other top of the line burners do this as well so they are worth the extra money.
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I just use a fine tip sharpie.. I have considered a burner but haven't pulled the trigger yet. Maybe some day.
I personally am not a fan of a branding iron - it is a piece of art created by you so I prefer the personal touch. I don't want it to be perfect every time.. just like my turnings are not perfect every time. I can't imagine a painter using an ink stamp from Staples to sign a painting, but that's just me. I guess if you are doing production work you might want to use some kind of iron.
I personally am not a fan of a branding iron - it is a piece of art created by you so I prefer the personal touch. I don't want it to be perfect every time.. just like my turnings are not perfect every time. I can't imagine a painter using an ink stamp from Staples to sign a painting, but that's just me. I guess if you are doing production work you might want to use some kind of iron.
Some years back the DW gave me one of the commercial "name" burners (and it does include the date)
The problem is, it requires a flat surface, really honestly flat, not flat-ish, flat.
I use a pyro pen
The problem is, it requires a flat surface, really honestly flat, not flat-ish, flat.
I use a pyro pen
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It is a perceptual thing and personal preference, I suppose, but I agree withe consensus that a signature is better if actually made by hand and not with a stamp, branding iron, or laser. While a laser signature is much "cleaner" looking, it is still a couple steps removed from actually signing by hand. Just for information purposes, here is how the process of a laser signature works:
1. Your actual signature is scanned and converted into a scalable vector graphic.
2. The signature can then be scaled to the appropriate size and also changed to follow a circular path, if desired.
3. Then the final design goes to the software that controls the laser scanner to create the actual design.
4. A laser created image can be even modified to add "flaws" that give it a more hand made look, so who knows, it might some day become the norm.
1. Your actual signature is scanned and converted into a scalable vector graphic.
2. The signature can then be scaled to the appropriate size and also changed to follow a circular path, if desired.
3. Then the final design goes to the software that controls the laser scanner to create the actual design.
4. A laser created image can be even modified to add "flaws" that give it a more hand made look, so who knows, it might some day become the norm.
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Paul,
A long time ago, I was signing with a Sharpy making a bold signature that was easy to read.
A well known turner told me I had a very nice looking hollow form until he turned it over and saw a big black signature dominating the bottom.
He suggested i switch to a burning tip and make the signature small.
I told him I was worried that no one would know who made it.
He said they will know who you are.
For 15 years plus I sign with a detail master and a ball writing tip in a small and inconspicuous place.
I find a slow movement with a medium heat works best for me.
The writing tip is important. It must allow movement in all directions to let the writing flow.
Have fun,
Al
A long time ago, I was signing with a Sharpy making a bold signature that was easy to read.
A well known turner told me I had a very nice looking hollow form until he turned it over and saw a big black signature dominating the bottom.
He suggested i switch to a burning tip and make the signature small.
I told him I was worried that no one would know who made it.
He said they will know who you are.
For 15 years plus I sign with a detail master and a ball writing tip in a small and inconspicuous place.
I find a slow movement with a medium heat works best for me.
The writing tip is important. It must allow movement in all directions to let the writing flow.
Have fun,
Al
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Thanks to all of you
Lots of choices and food for thought. I think the personally written signature or initials appeals to me so I will go that route. A Detail Master or Cub will probably get the nod.
Lots of choices and food for thought. I think the personally written signature or initials appeals to me so I will go that route. A Detail Master or Cub will probably get the nod.
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Paul, there are some other recent threads about signing your work that have some helpful tips that you may find useful. For example, I believe that tips on what type of pen tip works best for writing, how to hold the pen, and heat setting. In the end, reading will only get you so far. You will find that writing on wood with a burner takes LOTS of practice. In addition, you will need to practice a lot. And, finally, lots of practice is necessary.
Steve Worcester
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Fine point Sharpie with finish over the top. Has worked for me for years and it doesn't rely on the flatness of the bottom like a brand would.
Practice
As a new turner it is already quite evident that I get better every time I do some turning. I'm not surprised you would emphasize practice. A number of others also made the point that signing your work is not that easy to do and requires practice. I would imagine that the degree of difficulty varies withe the hardness of the wood as well. Anyway, your sense of humour was a fun start to my day here
As a new turner it is already quite evident that I get better every time I do some turning. I'm not surprised you would emphasize practice. A number of others also made the point that signing your work is not that easy to do and requires practice. I would imagine that the degree of difficulty varies withe the hardness of the wood as well. Anyway, your sense of humour was a fun start to my day here
I've used Sharpie-type markers, but found them problematic in that most finishes will dissolve the ink. Obviously, marking over the finish is not the way to go. I've also tried water based ink markers, and they are marginally better.
Burning your signature and info into the piece requires a rather expensive pyrography setup (> $200). If not using it for other purposes, it is prohibitively out of my budget.
I have been using the Dremel engraving tool for a while now with great success. It really should be the Dremel brand, as others just don't have the same ability to write with enough control to appear "normal." I add the signature after finishing, and fill the writing with shoe polish or rub in colored wax (like rub n buff). The finish allows the colored wax to be easily wiped off, leaving just the signature/writing colored. You can add more finish over this if you desire more permanence.
Burning your signature and info into the piece requires a rather expensive pyrography setup (> $200). If not using it for other purposes, it is prohibitively out of my budget.
I have been using the Dremel engraving tool for a while now with great success. It really should be the Dremel brand, as others just don't have the same ability to write with enough control to appear "normal." I add the signature after finishing, and fill the writing with shoe polish or rub in colored wax (like rub n buff). The finish allows the colored wax to be easily wiped off, leaving just the signature/writing colored. You can add more finish over this if you desire more permanence.
Further to what Jeff said above, grinding the tip of the Dremel to more of a point really aids in "writing." I've never tried the wax, but will.....
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The Dremel engraver works great. Here is how I have used it. First, I apply shellac or lacquer to the area. Then with a light to medium setting on the engraver, I sign my name holding the tool perpendicular to the surface. I try to maintain very light pressure to keep from digging into the wood. Next, I use a fine tipped furniture graining pen and trace over the engraving. Next, I lightly sand the area and then apply a top coat finish. The furniture graining pen produces the same color as wood burning.
Steve Worcester
Admin Emeritus
I spray finishes. A couple coats, light sanding, sign and spray a couple more. I have used it with lacquers and automotive finishes and both worked well.
A wipe on finish would take it right out. Signing over the finish also works, but it can wear off.
I don't like pyro signing as it follows the woods grain too easy and same for grinder finishes. I want it to look like my real, unreadable, signature.
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
I'm with Bill. I find a very light touch with the Dremel is what it takes. It also helps to sand the area real well. Don't try to write across the grain on woods like Oak. Of course that's true with whatever you use.
Woodburning takes the same prep and light touch and I've learned that lower power is better.
I'm with Steve on the marker. On my Christmas ornaments I apply a coat of finish on the lathe. Then I sign and follow that by a very light spray over the signed area. Once that's dry (in like a minute) I spray more coats to finish the ornament. Wiping on finish will remove the signature but a light spray coat over it will usually seal it.
Woodburning takes the same prep and light touch and I've learned that lower power is better.
I'm with Steve on the marker. On my Christmas ornaments I apply a coat of finish on the lathe. Then I sign and follow that by a very light spray over the signed area. Once that's dry (in like a minute) I spray more coats to finish the ornament. Wiping on finish will remove the signature but a light spray coat over it will usually seal it.
John, that makes perfect sense. I don't spray finish anything, so my marker applied signatures always just melted away with the finish. Perhaps I will try some rattle can lacquer for the feet of my bowls and such after signing.
Signitures/Info
I've tried different wasand keep going back to the ink pen,i find that has more personal feeling and also not only the kind of wood but the origin of it. many local buyers or gift receivers,can relate to where the piece has come from. Russ,WAWA
I've tried different wasand keep going back to the ink pen,i find that has more personal feeling and also not only the kind of wood but the origin of it. many local buyers or gift receivers,can relate to where the piece has come from. Russ,WAWA
Thanks Bernie. I'm gonna' get to Michael's or Staples and see if I can't get a few of those markers.
I've tried the water based ink art markers (I think it was actually india ink), but was not satisfied with the results. I know better than to use oil or alcohol based markers, as they would most certainly dissolve when finish is applied over them.
I've tried the water based ink art markers (I think it was actually india ink), but was not satisfied with the results. I know better than to use oil or alcohol based markers, as they would most certainly dissolve when finish is applied over them.
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I have some micro pigment art pens that are permanent. I don't recall the name, but if you go to David Nittman's site, I think that you mat find them there.
I use a vibrating engraver. Every now and then I resharpen the point. I am going to suggest you write your name so it can be read easy. Dont make folks wonder who you are. I also put the wood and the year made. One thing I had not thought of is well used salad bowls. I got one back to clean up and water had almost lifted my info back to flush so I resigned everything.
My wife and I also collect. We have work we no longer know who made it cause we have no idea how to decipher whats written. Somewhere we have notes of who made it when. But if its on the work we dont have to guess. We have more than 250 pieces and point blank are not that organised as far as who what and where. We also buy work on the secondary market. The makers name has to be on the work. A year made is a big plus for us also.
My wife and I also collect. We have work we no longer know who made it cause we have no idea how to decipher whats written. Somewhere we have notes of who made it when. But if its on the work we dont have to guess. We have more than 250 pieces and point blank are not that organised as far as who what and where. We also buy work on the secondary market. The makers name has to be on the work. A year made is a big plus for us also.
I think the specialty pens are best for most of us
I think the specialty pens mentioned in some of the posts are best for most of us. Easier to handle than a burner or engraver. I don't know what the pen is but the result looks like a very fine fiber tip only a "solider" more built up line. Don't know how to say it but the lines look like they were painted on with several coats of paint, appearance not build up and texture. It makes a very clean well defined line.
My brother has a standard signature mark he has used for many years and many thousands of signatures. My handwriting is so bad that I plan to use the same type of thing. Nothing fancy just a script L with Hu written above the lower bar. Doubtful anything I write by hand will be legible other than a date but a consistent mark should work as well for any of us that get famous and collectable!
A story about the value of a signature vs a stamp or NC style engraving: Most of us have heard of Minnesota Fats, the famous pool player. Fats had an ego the size of the great outdoors and was very close to illiterate. His hand writing was terrible. He was often asked for his autograph in later years so he had a stamp made with a beautifully flowing script "Minnesota Fats" on it. When people wanted an autograph he would whip out his stamp and proudly stamp his name!
Fats is known as much for his way with words as his pool skills but he was left with his mouth hanging open one day after he whipped out his stamp and slapped it on something for a young lady. She said, "I wanted a signature, if I had wanted a stamp I would have went to the post office."
That story pretty much describes my feelings. I will have to sign the best I can, I don't think I want a stamp on my custom work and don't think other people do either.
Hu
I think the specialty pens mentioned in some of the posts are best for most of us. Easier to handle than a burner or engraver. I don't know what the pen is but the result looks like a very fine fiber tip only a "solider" more built up line. Don't know how to say it but the lines look like they were painted on with several coats of paint, appearance not build up and texture. It makes a very clean well defined line.
My brother has a standard signature mark he has used for many years and many thousands of signatures. My handwriting is so bad that I plan to use the same type of thing. Nothing fancy just a script L with Hu written above the lower bar. Doubtful anything I write by hand will be legible other than a date but a consistent mark should work as well for any of us that get famous and collectable!
A story about the value of a signature vs a stamp or NC style engraving: Most of us have heard of Minnesota Fats, the famous pool player. Fats had an ego the size of the great outdoors and was very close to illiterate. His hand writing was terrible. He was often asked for his autograph in later years so he had a stamp made with a beautifully flowing script "Minnesota Fats" on it. When people wanted an autograph he would whip out his stamp and proudly stamp his name!
Fats is known as much for his way with words as his pool skills but he was left with his mouth hanging open one day after he whipped out his stamp and slapped it on something for a young lady. She said, "I wanted a signature, if I had wanted a stamp I would have went to the post office."
That story pretty much describes my feelings. I will have to sign the best I can, I don't think I want a stamp on my custom work and don't think other people do either.
Hu
Fine Point Sharpie