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Comparing the Nova dvr to a Jet 1642 ??

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I am thinking upgrading my lathe down the road and I really like the Jet 1642 1.5 hp cause I am not wired to 220 or do I have any more room in my breaker box to expand and I know it would be a great lathe But how would it stand up to a Nova dvr 3000 ?

Which lathe would you buy and why? They are also in same price class very similar to motor size? ect. any help plz.
 
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the Nova DVR XP is wired for either 110 and 220.
Personally Go with the Nova, and to get a single line for 220 really is nothing compared to the cost of the lathe itself
 
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Ok well lets forget about the 220 cause that is not really a issue. If I need It It will be run. I am more concerned on which lathe is better ? may last longer or take more abuse. Not that I am hard on my stuff. I do Bowls mostly now and would like to get into hollow forms. I don't see mt self doing bowls much bigger than 14" to 15"...
 

john lucas

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I looked at the Nova DVR really hard. My problem with it is the Proprietary motor. No other lathe has that. It does seem to work really well but I worry about the long term repair consequences. If they decide to drop this lathe in the future where do you get parts.
I purchased the Powermatic (one step up from the the Jet but they are the same). The reason I did is everything that can break can be replaced with after market parts if necessary, or built by a good machinist. The Motor and VFD and bearings can easily be changed out by non powermatic parts if necessary.
there are a lot of happy people who own the DVR. As a demonstrator the electronics drove me crazy but I think if I owned it I would get used to it's quirky things pretty quickly.
I demo on a Jet 16" very frequently and it is an excellent lathe. Works just like my Powermatic and I know many people who have them and really like them.
 
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I do not think you can go wrong with either. My personal choice would be the DVR between those two. I do own a DVR 3000 and like John I have a Powermatic. I did convert the DVR to 220 and there is plenty of power. I'm sure John is talking about how the speed is increased or decreased which is very different than your normal variable speed lathe but it is like he thought you can get used to it very easily. Other than bearings there is basically nothing to wear out as the motor has no windings and is controlled by a circuit board. Now if you lost the motor on the Jet or if the circuit board failed on the DVR I believe your replacement costs are very similar, and if repairable those costs also similar. Very tough decision but I'm sure you will be satisfied with either.
Bill
 

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The DVRs I have turned on have plenty of power and are quite stable with unbalanced blanks.


My biggest dislike of the DVR are the controls.

I like a big red button I can hit to stop the machine. The touch panel is extremely slow in changing speeds.
The on off controls are quite small and difficult to use.
I know it can be pre set to act like the reeves pulley lathes that have preset speeds but that sort of defeats the purpose of variable speed.

I agree with John in that if something ever goes wrong you can just buy a new motor.
 
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Thank you guys that is what I was looking for... I know either machine would be a huge step up to what I have now so I am leaning towards the dvr just cause of its foot print as my shop is in a basement. Now Is a 2 hp strong enough to core out blanks with a bowl corer? I don't want to have power issues don't the road. I guess what I am asking is what can a 2 hp handle in most cases...?

Currently I am running a Rikon Mini 70-100 and I can do up to 10" - 10 1/2 " bowls and 4 "- 5 " deep that is pushing it for this little guy. and I want to be able to do large bowls and platters and what ever else comes to mind.
 
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+1 on what hockenbery said. I also dislike the control pad. Maybe I could used to it, but I hate the pushing and holding down a button to change speed. It has a delay to start and a delay for changing speeds. Our club has that lathe, so I don't use it often, but I haven't gotten used to it yet. Definitely use a DVR before buying one! Don't look at the 1 1/2 Jet if you don't want power issues down the road. Coring a 14" bowl really takes the hp. Go with the 2hp or get the Powermatic.
 
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Yeah I do wish It had a big stop switch and turn knob knob like most cnc machines I used to run. the old style now all these push buttons..... not really the experience I was looking for. That 's a good point? Do a lot of you like or dis like the head rotation future? Or have problems Getting to it ligh back up and stay locked in place?
 
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Had dvrxp for nearly 3 year and not had a single thing go wrong (I use it around 3-4 hours every day, I understand what John says about the way speed adjustment is made but believe me after using it for a few days you will soon get the hang of things (and there is no belts to wear or change) and its solid state and only has one moving part (less things TO go wrong)
I believe both lathe to be of very good construction, for me the dvrxp fit my tiny little workshop perfectly but still has more than enough power (so far I have turned most things from pens right up to 27 by 8 inch bowls)
Sure the speed adjustment is different than just about all other variable speed lathes but that is very soon got used to (I cannot count the number of times when using my other old lathes I should have moved the belt to a different ratio but have made do with the one I was on, with the dvr that no longer happens (yes I know I'am a lazy so and so;-))

Anyhow good luck with your choice I don't think you'll go far wrong with either!!!

P.S.
If you decide on the dvr make sure you bolt it down to concrete and/or ballast it really well (sand and/or pea gravel work really well) I have around 600lbs hanging off mine!
 
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No probs with head rotation locks cleanly and solidly the only down point to the dvr is its lack of mass, but that is easily taken care of, also regarding the memory channels, rather than set these with my favourite speeds what I did was set them with speeds between 300 and 2000 rpm then any speed I want is with easy reach (simple)
 

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Ok well lets forget about the 220 cause that is not really a issue. If I need It It will be run. I am more concerned on which lathe is better ? may last longer or take more abuse. Not that I am hard on my stuff. I do Bowls mostly now and would like to get into hollow forms. I don't see mt self doing bowls much bigger than 14" to 15"...

Really, upgrading your panel and running 240 VAC (it hasn't been 220 since the early days of the REA, but the term has stuck) is not as expensive as people generally fear that it might be. Another big advantage of having 240 is that you can do some load balancing so that not everything is not on the same phase.

Both lathes are excellent. The Nova may look sleeker and sexier if that is important. The Jet looks and behaves more like a workhorse. More horsepower is better if you need it, otherwise it uses more energy than a smaller motor because of the greater no load current.

Maybe you meant durable -- a machine should not be abused or else you might get turned into the SPCM (Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Machinery). :D

I think that the largest thing that I have turned started out around 15" -- when considering lathe swing, how large the piece is when you start is more important than the final size.

... Other than bearings there is basically nothing to wear out as the motor has no windings and is controlled by a circuit board. Now if you lost the motor on the Jet or if the circuit board failed on the DVR I believe your replacement costs are very similar, and if repairable those costs also similar. Very tough decision but I'm sure you will be satisfied with either.
Bill

No windings? :D

800px-Stepper_motor.jpg

Just like any motor, steppers have windings. Nova marketing uses the term "digital variable reluctance", but that is just a "simpler" way of saying "stepper". As far as repair and replacement costs go, the big ticket items on the Nova would be much more expensive than those on the Jet. The controller for a stepper motor is far more complex than the inverters used with three-phase AC induction motors. In general, stepper motors are simpler and less expensive than AC induction motors, however in this case, the spindle is a part of the rotor which says that it would be an expensive specialized part. On a conventional lathe design, a bad motor or bad spindle can be replaced separately whereas the Nova design means that the whole things must be replaced. The rotor on a stepper motor can't be replaced separately from the field and housing at the user level so the whole thing would need to be replaced if any part of it needed to be replaced.
 
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I don't know about the DVR 3000, but I have owned a DVR 2024 (it is the 3000's big brother) for a year or so. I love it and have had no issues. The speed adjustment is different, yes, but I use the presets a lot. Also something that came with my lathe is a wristband speed control. I thought it was silly at first, but it allows you to control speed from the other end of the lathe, or adjust your speed as you are walking over to get sandpaper or sharpen tools. I know it sounds silly, but I have come to use it all the time. As far as the pivoting headstock goes, it works fine. The only alignment trick I have to use is to run the tailstock all the way into the head stock and insert the live center into the Morse taper on the headstock to align everything before you tighten down the headstock.

I am sure that the jet is a fine machine and they are very popular lathes so I am sure that whichever one you end up buying will treat you well.
 
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Yeah I would be pleased to have either lathe... but I think I 'm leaning towards the nova right now. I want to do some turning on both first. Our club has the Jet but not the Nova.
 
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As it was explained to me the motor does not have the conventional windings.

The motor is the simplest of motors. Around the outside of the motor are a number of electromagnets. The rotor is an extension of the headstock spindle - it looks like a large toothed shaft. When a magnet is switched on, an intense magnetic field is created and the tooth is pulled to line up with the magnet, then the next magnet is switched on, which forces the spindle to rotate.

Since it works by magnetic attraction, the speed or position of the shaft is unimportant to its torque. The switching of the magnets is controlled by a microcomputer, using an digital display and soft control pad. The motor is smart - it knows the exact shaft position and is constantly computing where the shaft should be. At 2000 rpm, for instance, it is computing the shaft position 24000 times per minute.

The motor itself is only 2 pieces.

The pictures were too small but if you want to look at them go here:
http://www.teknatool.com/products/lathes/dvr/nova%20_dvr.htm

I take care of a Nova forum and have never heard of anyone having to replace the head (which is the motor). The microcomputer board can have problems and that replacement cost is comparable to the cost of the Jet motor.
I've had my DVR 3000 since 2003 and I was able to upgrade the electronics to make it equal to the new DVR. And as stated above either lathe in my opinion would be a good choice.

 

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I have owned 2 Nova machines and they are excellent so I don't want to sound like I'm anti Nova. When I bought my last lathe (powermatic 3520) it was more money than I've spend on almost anything but a car. I wanted it to last a very long time. I've seen a lot of lathes come and go over the years and things like motors and variable speed devices change and/or dissappear. I was looking for a lathe that could be repaired 10, 15, or 20 years down the line. (yea I'm going to live that long).
I was worried that the DVR line would be dropped or changed and you couldn't get the motor. Since the spindle is built into it I wasn't sure it could ever be replaced if you can't buy one from the factory. The same is true with the electronics. That's why I went with the powermatic. The motor and controller could simply be replace by whatever the latest greatest motor controller options are. The spindle of course could simply be made from scratch by a good machinist.
As far as realigning the headstock after rotating on the Nova I found a simple very accurate solution. I carefully aligned the headstock with the tailstock. Then I drilled a 3/16" hole at the joint where the bed and headstock meet. The drill bit will follow that joint so you get half a circle in each half. When I need to realign the headstock I just rotate it gently until the drill bit fits back in that hole and lock it down. It's dead on every time and won't slip while you tighten the knob.
 

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As it was explained to me the motor does not have the conventional windings.

The motor is the simplest of motors. Around the outside of the motor are a number of electromagnets. The rotor is an extension of the headstock spindle - it looks like a large toothed shaft. When a magnet is switched on, an intense magnetic field is created and the tooth is pulled to line up with the magnet, then the next magnet is switched on, which forces the spindle to rotate.

Each category of motors has its own unique configuration when it comes to the way that the windings are laid out -- and there are almost more types than any of us would ever imagine. It is definitely true that steppers are just about the simplest design that exists which theoretically would make them the lowest cost. But, so many other factors get involved besides design and construction that it is hard to predict cost on that alone. Originally, steppers were used strictly as positioning devices where torque loads were so low that it was hardly a consideration. The main goal was getting from position A to position B with greatest accuracy and minimal settling time. They are still used for that type of application in such things as the read/write heads in optical and hard disk drives. Even in larger industrial servo systems, steppers were only used where working against a torque load was not a requirement.

More recently, improved stepper motors have been used more like small conventional motors in adjustable speed applications. Improvements in controller design and software algorithms were also factors in the steppers working well in more conventional motor applications. There were some bumps in the road. Those who bought the very early DVR lathes are familiar with the harsh vibration from incorrect software set up. I don't recall if the controller itself had to be replaced.

Basically, all motors function as rotating electromagnets around the stationary field that "pulls" the rotor along. The intensity of the magnetic field is one of the factors that determines the mechanical power output of the motor so that is not a unique characteristic of the motor type.

Since it works by magnetic attraction, the speed or position of the shaft is unimportant to its torque. The switching of the magnets is controlled by a microcomputer, using an digital display and soft control pad. The motor is smart - it knows the exact shaft position and is constantly computing where the shaft should be. At 2000 rpm, for instance, it is computing the shaft position 24000 times per minute.

As with any other motor, the torque output is determined by the load up to the torque limit of the motor (known as stall torque). However, steppers are no different than AC induction motors when it comes to torque output. They may seem to be different if the controller limits the speed range to be within the constant torque operating envelope.

I think that too big a deal is made of "constant torque" -- this is true not only of Nova, but probably all of the other lathe manufacturers who offer sensorless vector inverter drives with three phase AC induction motors. Torque is important to an engineer doing load analysis, but it is only peripherally useful to the machine operator since torque by itself does not do any work. You mentioned full torque at zero speed. Since no work is being done at zero speed, the motor efficiency is zero. Inverter drives are also generally set up to also deliver full torque at zero speed, but an AC induction motor running without an inverter will typically output five to six times full load torque at start-up i.e., zero speed stall torque).

It is the controller and not the motor that is smart -- the motor is just the big galoot that does whatever its master says. Three phase AC induction motors with true vector control can also be set up to work exactly as the DVR motor -- that is control both speed and position. I have several Baldor motors and vector controllers that are able to do that. An optical shaft encoder is used on the motor to provide both precise position and speed feedback information. Unless a stepper also users an encoder, it would not be able to ensure precise positioning because the basic operation is open-loop (meaning that the controller assumes the rotor position, but doesn't account for sync slip).

An even "smarter" motor/controller are the BLDC type (brushless DC), but they are so expensive that they can't yet be seriously considered for woodturning lathes.

The motor itself is only 2 pieces.

It is a lot more than two and comparable to a three phase AC induction motor. However, the stepper is easier to construct and the rotor is less complex because it does not have the "cage".

I've had my DVR 3000 since 2003 and I was able to upgrade the electronics to make it equal to the new DVR. And as stated above either lathe in my opinion would be a good choice.

I think that it is an excellent lathe that is especially well made, but I share the same concerns that John Lucas does about long term availability of replacement parts. The Nova design did not solve the problem of low power at low speeds and in fact put themselves at a power disadvantage in that respect by going to a direct drive when compared to belt drive systems. On the plus side, direct drive does make for a more compact headstock. Other issues are not really clear-cut regarding which of the two approaches is better for doing things.
 
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I have a DVR XP and a Robust American Beauty and a Woodfast. I really like my little DVR. It is a heck of the lathe for the money. I teach a bit on the jet. The DVR has more power than the 1.5hp jet. The banjo is better on the DVR and I like the hand wheel better on the DVR. The speed change is a non issue for me and I have no worries about the motor. I have used mine for about 5 years pretty hard with absolutely no issues.

Alan
 
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Yeah I can not see why I would not like the dvr... I really like the compact sized
of both nova lathes. I have even played with the idea of going with the 16 -24 44 8 speed model if the motor was bigger ... I know It would do all I need to to do right now but down the road who knows right.....??? I really don't mind changing belts as long as I don't have any issues with bad vibrations problems with any of the speeds or what not. and we all know how nice it is to be able to adjust to that perfect speed.
 
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Yeah I can not see why I would not like the dvr... I really like the compact sized of both nova lathes. I have even played with the idea of going with the 16 -24 44 8 speed model if the motor was bigger ... I know It would do all I need to to do right now but down the road who knows right.....??? I really don't mind changing belts as long as I don't have any issues with bad vibrations problems with any of the speeds or what not. and we all know how nice it is to be able to adjust to that perfect speed.

The motor is a NEMA C mount AC motor. You could put a larger if you care to.

Remember, the motor will always be at full synchronous rpm with a mechanical drive, so if it's torque you crave, it's got it. The "perfect" speed? First, it's not speed, but rpm you're dealing with. Speed changes with distance from center, rpm does not. Second, your part of the cut is a combination of presentation and rate of feed, which you control with your body, not with a dial or panel. Muscle memory at rpm XXX will produce an uninterrupted shaving, while XXX plus or minus 200 will require a reset of the device behind the gouge.

I have a 3000, and my body works well at 11 passes/second, gets impatient and has to be talked back at 6, and makes flakes at 16, because I can't feed fast enough. As I see it, full torque at lower rpm for safety is what you need, not variable "speed."
 

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MM is correct. A mechanical speed reduction drive is the only one that can deliver full rated power at all speeds. While the ones with a variable speed motor are nice and convenient, the output power decreases in proporrtion to speed when running slower than nameplate speed. For that reason, you will find that it is not necessary to have a larger horsepower motor such s found on variable speed lathes. For the most part, variable speed lathes use larger motors than their mechanical counterparts because they are necessary to make up for the loss in power that is an unavoidable consequence of slowing down the motor.
 

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Bill I know you've stated that motors don't have the same power when turned down several times. I honestly can't tell it on my Powermatic or the clubs Jet 1642. I don't have enough experience on larger work with my new Delta 46-460 but it doesn't seem to lose much if any on smaller work.
Now the DC lathes I have been on are terrible about that. I do know that you lose some power from the very start going through either a 3 phase converter of Variable Frequency Drive. At least it says so in the manuals.
How much power do you really lose on 3 phase motors with Variable Frequency Drives as you change power. Curious minds want to know.
 
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You all have brought me to school on this one... I guess I was really in the dark about motors (AC-DC) and power with variable speed lathes.
So maybe belts aren't so bad to deal with...lol :cool2:
 
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Christopher,

What Bill say's is 100% correct. But there comes to a point that we are splitting hairs. The modern vector drives and 3 phase motors are incredibly efficient compared to what we had available 20 years ago. I came out of the machine tool industry where DC motors and controllers were king at that time. When the AC drives came in it was a different game all together. On the practical side of the operator they just worked better.

Both Bill and I have Robust lathes. Not sure if his has two or 3 speed ranges but mine only has two. In high range and 300RPM I can take a 1/2" cut with a bowl gouge and it does not even slow the machine down. It is the same for my Nova DVR. Not sure what more we could ask for.

Really the motors on most/all the modern full size lathes are pretty dang good. What is really comes down to is size and features. We are extremely lucky today. The quality, capability and value of the equipment we have available are incredible compared to just 20 years ago.

Alan
 

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Bill I know you've stated that motors don't have the same power when turned down several times. I honestly can't tell it on my Powermatic or the clubs Jet 1642. I don't have enough experience on larger work with my new Delta 46-460 but it doesn't seem to lose much if any on smaller work.
Now the DC lathes I have been on are terrible about that. I do know that you lose some power from the very start going through either a 3 phase converter of Variable Frequency Drive. At least it says so in the manuals.
How much power do you really lose on 3 phase motors with Variable Frequency Drives as you change power. Curious minds want to know.

John the reason is probably because we don't actually use power that is anywhere close to what the motor can deliver at full speed. Here is an acid test -- with the motor running full speed, and a very large round blank mounted, start hogging until you are able to stall the motor, if you can. Now, run the speed down to near its minimum value and try the same thing.

Some types of DC motors are different in that the power is proportional to the square of the speed which means that it would be much more noticeable.
 

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.....How much power do you really lose on 3 phase motors with Variable Frequency Drives as you change power. Curious minds want to know.

It is directly proportional to speed. Zero speed = zero power, full speed = full power. Evrything in between is essentially linear.
 

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Bill I will give it a try. The reason I first changed to 3 phase motors with controllers was the power at slow speeds. I went from a 1 horse DC motor to a 1 horse 3ph AC motor and controller. I could of course stall the DC motor almost with my fingers at 250 rpm. I could take some pretty big cuts with a bowl gouge on the 3phase motor.
Same is true with my Powermatic although it has a 3 horse motor. It seems like I can take the same huge cuts with the powermatic no matter what the speed it just throws the shaving further and the cuts are cleaner at high speeds. I guess that's why I'm confused.
 
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I just got a used Nova 16-24 44 to replace a larger lathe with a dead DC drive controller. The biggest issue I have with it is the height of the spindle and overall weight.

It came with the hybrid stand, and I needed to raise the lathe up about 3" to be comfortable for for me, I am just 6'. I also need to build in a shelf to add ballast. Other than that, the 8 speed's on the pulleys give loads of speed range and the rotating head stock is beginning to grow on me.

Resale value will still be there when I want to jump up in size and weight.

Lloyd
 

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John,

A couple things that I forgot to mention -- three-phase motors are much more efficient than single phase motors, especially those made in the last few years. Also, the reason for power loss when running slower than the nameplate rating is not due to some defficiency of the inverter or creating the synthesized three phase power. The power-in / power-out efficiency is actually very high. Without going into a long-winded explanation (I know, that doesn't sound like me to avoid getting verbose, but I'm tapping on an iPhone), it is just all basic physics and you can't fool Mother Nature. Maybe when I am back home I will give you all the technical details that you can enjoy.

There are a couple features of some of the better inverters that will give a bit of power boost and is most noticeable when running at very slow speed. One feature is sensing motor speed and adjusting the frequency to maintain constant speed. The other feature is overdriving the motor by as much as 15% for brief intervals when additional torque is needed. Be forewarned that heavy loading at very low RPM is especially hard on the motor because it is little to no cooling from the fan on the back end of the motor.

One other thing if you really decide to
 

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(ran into iPhone limit)

... as I was saying, one otherthing if hou want to determine if you can see a difference between power at minimum speed compared to full speed, you need to know what to observe. The thing to see would be an indicator of the rate that work is being done. So weigh the amount of shavings that you get in a certain amount of time for both slow and maximum speed.

While this test might be a valid way to collect data, it doesn't take much imagination to see some obvious problems. First, nobody I know would actually turn wood that way. Next, we do different things at different speeds. If I started with a rough hunk of chainsawed wood with the bark on one side, I would turn at a moderately slow speed making light cuts until the corners and bark were gone. I might do most of the rough shaping at around 600 - 800 RPM. Any turning that I so at high speed would be final shaping with very light cuts. Based ony approach to turning it really is not possible to make a valid assessment of power because of what I am doing at one speed is so different from whati am doing at another speed.
 
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No probs with head rotation locks cleanly and solidly the only down point to the dvr is its lack of mass, but that is easily taken care of, also regarding the memory channels, rather than set these with my favourite speeds what I did was set them with speeds between 300 and 2000 rpm then any speed I want is with easy reach (simple)

Could you explain the difference between favorite speeds & speeds between 300 & 2000 RPM. It would seem to me that what ever you set must be your favorite speed settings.
 
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What I mean is instead of say setting 300-500-625-1425-2250 what I have set is 300-500-850-1250-1800 then speeds are easily within reach, I know it seems/sounds dumb to explain and I agree with you that any speed entered into memory must be a favourite speed but that's how I do it, so any speed within the range of 200 to 2000rpm is within easy and quick reach, like if your speeds where set to let's say 300-500-650-825-1025 then the speed of 2250rpm would take longer to reach (yes no doubt some will disagree) but it seems to work well for me!!!
Hope that helps (glad that's done, my heads hurting:)
 

hockenbery

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What I mean is instead of say setting 300-500-625-1425-2250 what I have set is 300-500-850-1250-1800 then speeds are easily within reach, I know it seems/sounds dumb to explain and I agree with you that any speed entered into memory must be a favourite speed but that's how I do it, so any speed within the range of 200 to 2000rpm is within easy and quick reach, like if your speeds where set to let's say 300-500-650-825-1025 then the speed of 2250rpm would take longer to reach (yes no doubt some will disagree) but it seems to work well for me!!!
Hope that helps (glad that's done, my heads hurting:)


So when you put an unbalanced bowl on the lathe
You press favorite #1 - 300 and that is ok so you press favorite #2 - 500

you press favorite # 3. - 850. And it is too fast so you start searching for the speed you want?

Is his the process?


With a dial control I advance the speed until I get excess vibration. Then I try increasing the speed a bit to see if i get less vibration which usually happens and I begin roughing. If I don't get less vibration I'll dial back to little less speed than where the excess vibration started.
 
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my vote for the JET

I compared the same lathes and bought the Jet. Controls for me were a big deal and having a dial to change RPM makes turning more enjoyable for me as a beginner. The Jet also went on sale, amazon offered another discount, and free shipping so i made the purchase. The other nice thing for me was that it came with sturdy legs and assembled in minutes. The one downside is that if i take a really large cut it does stall on 15" dry bowls. I haven't tried coring yet. Nonetheless, I'm happy with my purchase.
Cheers,
matt
 
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Hockenbery that's just what I do, but instead of scrolling up through speeds (takes a while on nova) spacing speeds in memory makes getting to the speed needed faster, if I put a large out of balance piece on lathe I select memory 1= 300rpm and scroll down to 100rpm and increase speed until a good speed is reached, if I turn a pen, instead of keeping finger on up button I select memory Chanel 5=2000rpm and take it from there, It sounds very long winded to explain but in use it enables me to get to a wanted speed faster, you really do have to understand how the dvrxp works, you can change speed even though you are on a memory Chanel at any time, if i am on memory Chanel 1=300rpm by hitting the up or down button I can scroll (increase/decrease) off that speed in 5rpm increments at any time.
And no I am not so stupid as to start a large out of balance piece at 300rpm and then go to 500rpm then 850rpm that's a sure way to play "chase the blank"

Hope that explains what I mean (it had better do coz I ain't explaining that lot again :))
 
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It's not just speed control

I have a DVR and I also have a general with a dial speed control. The dial speed control is simple, very easy to change speed, but no power in the low rpms. The DVR and it's 5 favorite speeds really just gets you close to where you want to be, then you can fine tune it. I prefer the DVR for it's power, and speaking of power...
When you get into the controls of the DVR you can fine tune how that power is delivered. Just do a google on kint and kprop (IIRC) and you will get more data than you need. The short answer is you can set it so at 800 rpm the lathe can detect a catch and stop power to the spindle, minimizing damage done. Also at 800 rpm you can set it to a hard use setting, and it wont stop, regardless of shaving thickness and how you hog.
If your power hungry, and don't mind tinkering, and it takes less than a minute to do. It's a feature that might save a delicate piece, or make bowl turning session a little faster.l
 

Bill Boehme

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Hockenbery that's just what I do, but instead of scrolling up through speeds (takes a while on nova) spacing speeds in memory makes getting to the speed needed faster, if I put a large out of balance piece on lathe I select memory 1= 300rpm and scroll down to 100rpm and increase speed until a good speed is reached, if I turn a pen, instead of keeping finger on up button I select memory Chanel 5=2000rpm and take it from there, It sounds very long winded to explain but in use it enables me to get to a wanted speed faster, you really do have to understand how the dvrxp works, you can change speed even though you are on a memory Chanel at any time, if i am on memory Chanel 1=300rpm by hitting the up or down button I can scroll (increase/decrease) off that speed in 5rpm increments at any time.
And no I am not so stupid as to start a large out of balance piece at 300rpm and then go to 500rpm then 850rpm that's a sure way to play "chase the blank"

Hope that explains what I mean (it had better do coz I ain't explaining that lot again :))

That sounds a little like the Baldor 18H series industrial controllers that I have. There are several ways to get to the desired motor speed. There can be up to fifteen preset speeds, the numeric keypad which has the ability to be remotely located from the controller can be used to enter a speed directly, there are up and down arrows that an be used to increase or decrease speed sort of like changing the TV volume with a remote control, and there there is the familiar dial to run the speed up and down. If I wanted to add an RS-422 interface card, I would also be able to interface it with my computer and then have the motor speed software controlled if it were part of an automated process.
 
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