adhesive help

[Sean Boyle]

I have recently started segmented turning. I am currently using off the shelf lepage carpenters glue basic yellow glue. I get excelent bonds but the glue is thick and there is a lot of slipping and sliding as I clamp the rings my segmented turning is getting more complex and am having a lot of difficulty keeping the rings alinged. I have just started to look at different glues and if anyone has suggestion. I am looking for a glue with fairly quick tack time good bond and good fill

attached is a pic of my 3rd piece some minor alingment issues but I am very pleased

 

[Malcolm Tibbetts]

Sean, by far, the most popular glue amongst segmenters is Titebond Orginal, followed by Titebond II.

Also, regarding your displayed bowl, you might find this article interesting:

http://www.tahoeturner.com/instructions/pdf/BASE-ics.pdf

 

[john lucas]

Sean I have had the same problem and tried several different glues. Like Malcolm I like Titebond 11. What I do is put the 2 parts together and squeeze out all the glue I can buy hand. Push down and then align the parts. Then I count to 20. This is called tack time and it varies with different glues. If I squeezed enough glue out the parts will stick together and not move when I apply the clamps.
It's hard to get the glue thin enough sometimes so to keep them from sliding while I clamp I will put a drop of medium CA at the outer joint between the two rings and squirt it with Accelerator. That holds the rings in place while I put the clamps on.
When I first started I had the same problem and solved it by putting a very small amount of sand grains on several parts after gluing and before assembly. The sand kept the parts from sliding as I clamped them. I don't remember having problems with the sand ever showing up but then I wasn't as critical back then as I am now. You could put the sand in areas that will be turned away. It only takes a few grains here and there to keep it from slipping.

 

[Joe Greiner]

Sand

Neat trick with the sand.

Thanks.

 

[gary rock]

John-

Something to think about. Years ago I put some sand on a piece that I was working on, then grab a tool to make the final cut. The sand ate the tool up, cause the sand is nothing but ground quarts, very hard. I would place the grains of sand in an area that will not be turned, so the cutting tool edge won't be hurt.

Gary

 

[MichaelMouse]

A bit of sawdust will slow side slip as well as sand, with no consequence. A rub joint shouldn't be Norm wet anyway.

 

[Don O. Jr.]

A few grains of salt or sugar will do the same thing as the sand and not effect the tools. And as MM said a little glue and a rub joint and they will not move.

 

[Sean Boyle]

I tried the salt trick last night and wow love the results

Thanks everyone for the advice

 

[Jim Onofrio]

Hey everyone, My first post here in AAW and very new at turning. Just a quick question concerning glues. Any thoughts on using gorilla glue for bowl segmenting? I've used it for gluing sacrificial pieces to my blanks and it has held up well for that.

Thanks all!

 

[john lucas]

Gorilla glue is just too messy for me. It will not come off or your hands or for that matter anything else you get it on once it's dry and hard to get off when wet. It works great but I haven't found anything it will do that epoxy or PVA woodworkers glue won't do as well or better and they are both a whole lot easier to clean up. I think that's why when questioned way over 90 percent of segmented turners use PVA glues. Titebond 11 I believe is still at the top of the list.

 

[Jim Rinde]

Gorilla glue is just too messy for me. It will not come off or your hands or for that matter anything else you get it on once it's dry and hard to get off when wet. It works great but I haven't found anything it will do that epoxy or PVA woodworkers glue won't do as well or better and they are both a whole lot easier to clean up. I think that's why when questioned way over 90 percent of segmented turners use PVA glues. Titebond 11 I believe is still at the top of the list.

John: The place where Gorilla glue works and others don't do as well is with wet or oily wood. I use it mainly to glue freshly cut green wood to blocks with tenons.

 

[john lucas]

Jim I've done the same thing and forgot about that. I remember reading it one time and tried putting a glue block on a piece of green wood and it worked well. Haven't tried it on oily wood and I have some on hand so I'll have to plan a project and give it a try.
The other problem was that every bottle I tried to use of Gorilla glue or another off brand Polyeurethane glue was that it started to gel or harden in the bottle before I used it all up. Not once but several times so I just gave up on it since I was able to do everything I normally do with epoxy or PVA glues,

 

[Dick Sowa]

I don't think the issue is really the slipperiness of the glue, as much as it might be how you are clamping your rings. I had a devil of a time with it also, until I came up with a pretty easy way.

I mount my rings temporarily onto an MDF disk attached to a faceplate using hot melt glue. I then flatten the disk, and knock off the corners so it is round. I then do the same thing with a second disk and faceplate. Then, with one disk still mounted to the headstock, I use the tailstock cone center with the second disk (still mounted to it's faceplate). I dry fit the two disks together, to make sure joint alignment will be good when I apply glue. Then, if everything looks good, I slather a gob of Titebond original onto one of the disks, tighten up the tailstock a bit, and rotate the disks back and forth a bit to ensure even distribution of glue. Then, after making sure joint alignment is perfect, I crank down the tailstock so it squeezes out any excess glue.

The bottom line is that I have had zero problems aligning rings, and zero slippage, once I get all the joints aligned and let it sit for a few minutes. The bad part, is that it ties up my lathe for a while...but usually only 10-15 mins.

 

[Sean Boyle]

Once again I would like to thank everybody for the response I located some Titrbond III at a local hardware store. I have started my first project with it and have added the couple grains of salt. I am still in the glue up phase so have not started to turn yet but so far I am very pleased with the new glue and techniques the result look great.

Jim and John what type of wood do you refer to as oily wood

 

[john lucas]

Cocobolo, blackwood, come to mind. I'm having a brain fart at the moment and can't remember other woods that I find oily and suspect to gluing problems. They usually have a sort of oily appearance compared to say Maple.