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Robust J-curve tool rest, and Resp-O-Rator.....

odie

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I just purchased these two items from Packard.........just wondering if anyone here has any "hands on" comments about either of these two products.

I have several tool rests from Robust, and am very pleased with the hardened top surface. Tools slide across this surface just a little smoother than anything else.....and every little advantage helps! I haven't been able to get the regular interior tool rests up close to the bottom/center inside of bowls, and I'm hoping this J-Curve Robust tool rest will better accommodate the specific needs here......... If you have one of these J-rests, let us know your thoughts on it, please.......
See the Robust J-Rest here: http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Mer...de=packard&Product_Code=113248&Category_Code=

Even though I have an Airstream, and regular respirator, I purchased one of the Resp-O-Rators from Packard. A short video of this product can be seen here.....click on this link:
http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Mer...de=packard&Product_Code=196690&Category_Code=
Because I've made great strides in producing tool finishes that require little sanding in the past few years, I find myself using the Airstream less than I ever have because I only need lung protection for the short times I require for sanding. I've been using the rubber respirator more, but I've always hated that rubber face of the respirator. Well......I'm going to try Packard's Resp-o-rator, because it looks like it's very easy to use, easy on and off, non-powered, lightweight, and looks like it might provide clean air, as advertised. Anyone have one of these? How do you like it?

ooc
 
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Bill Boehme

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Odie, I would think that you would also need the Airstream when turning unless you are turning only green wood. At least, that is my experience. I mostly turn mesquite and although I like to turn it green, it seems that the majority of the time that I am turning the bone-dry dusty stuff. If I don't use my Airstream I get severe headaches and plugged sinuses for several days after turning dry wood, especially stuff like mesquite.

I am glad to see that the Resp-O-Rator now has a HEPA filter. I have always thought that is absolutely necessary because breathing through your mouth bypasses all of your body's natural filtration system. However, the Resp-O-Rator reminds me too much of the way that I had to breathe for several days following sinus surgery when my nose was filled with packing. Also, when breathing through your mouth, the air does not get as moisturized as it does when breathing through your nose. Some people like it, but it is just too uncomfortable for me.

I think that Brent English designed the J-rest specifically at the request of Johannes Michelsen. It served his needs very well for turning hats. I watched him turn a hat at SWAT last year. For my needs, I am not sure how much it would be useful, but I do think that it would be more useful than the curved bowl rest that I got when I bought my lathe from Brent. Of the four Robust tool rests that I have, my favorite is the low profile straight rest.
 

odie

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Odie, I would think that you would also need the Airstream when turning unless you are turning only green wood. At least, that is my experience. I mostly turn mesquite and although I like to turn it green, it seems that the majority of the time that I am turning the bone-dry dusty stuff. If I don't use my Airstream I get severe headaches and plugged sinuses for several days after turning dry wood, especially stuff like mesquite.

I am glad to see that the Resp-O-Rator now has a HEPA filter. I have always thought that is absolutely necessary because breathing through your mouth bypasses all of your body's natural filtration system. However, the Resp-O-Rator reminds me too much of the way that I had to breathe for several days following sinus surgery when my nose was filled with packing. Also, when breathing through your mouth, the air does not get as moisturized as it does when breathing through your nose. Some people like it, but it is just too uncomfortable for me.

I think that Brent English designed the J-rest specifically at the request of Johannes Michelsen. It served his needs very well for turning hats. I watched him turn a hat at SWAT last year. For my needs, I am not sure how much it would be useful, but I do think that it would be more useful than the curved bowl rest that I got when I bought my lathe from Brent. Of the four Robust tool rests that I have, my favorite is the low profile straight rest.

Mornin' Bill......

Yes, of course, you are right that there will be times when I'll be using the Airstream, or other methods of air filtration while turning, other than while sanding. Creating hazardous dust during times other than sanding is pretty much a product of certain species of wood, or particular specific pieces of wood, rather than the method of material removal. I am not getting anything but shavings for the majority of my turning, so, unless I am creating dust, no air filtration is required for me. Others may feel it's best to filter the air all the time while turning, but I never have. I only feel that need exists when dust is apparent.

In this world we live in today, there are way too many people who worry about remote possibilities, and let these things rule their conduct. Far too many of these people conduct their lives according to what someone else might think, rather than good old fashioned "horse sense" about what they're doing! This is why I don't feel the need for air filtration 100 percent of the time while turning, and also the reason why I don't wear a bicycle helmet, either! :D

Here we go again, because I've probably struck another sensitive nerve!........I suppose now we'll get an onslaught of those who think every form of protection should be used at all times......because "what if?". Did you know that there are people who are pushing for automobile child seats for kids up to their early teens? Wow, if that were me, I'd rather die than have my teen-age buddies see me pull up to the school in a child seat! .....but, there will be parents who will make their kids suffer humiliation, because they have no common sense, and they can't take the heat from those fanatical people who will disagree with them on these things...........:mad:

Anyone with "hands on" experience with the Robust J-rest, or the Resp-o-rator?

ooc
 
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The Resp-O-Rator is the best piece of equipment I have ever used for sanding. Light, comfortable and most important no sanding dust being exuded from nose and throat at the end of the day. Jim Duxbury hit it out of the park with this invention.
Bill
 

hockenbery

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Oldie,
I'm sure the j rest will work just fine.

I can't figure out how to use curved rests inside a bowl without having the part near the rim getting in the way and hitting the handle of the gouge.
For that reason I generally don't use a curved rest inside a bowl.

Curved rests are a personal turning style thing. For my style they give some good support for scraping inside the bowl if I do that on a particular bowl.
They tend to get in my way using a gouge inside the bowl. I don't often scrape inside a bowl.

Looks like this one would interfere less than most.

I have been looking at getting this rest for use on some hollow forms.

Al
 
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Donna Banfield

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I've been using a J-curve tool rest since taking Hannes' 3-day workshop at his studio in Vermont in 2007. I have both a large J-curve and small J-curve. I found that this shape will fit into any interior bowl or end-grain vessel that I've turned.

I have Oneway curved tool tests, and find I use them infrequently because my interior curve is just never quite the shape of those tool rests to fit the work. The J-curves are my go-to rests for almost all interior shapes.
 
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I have the J curve tool rest, but for my demo Jet 1220. My big lathe I use one I made myself. I've been very happy with it. I don't use it a lot, but like this past weekend I was doing a demo at the St John's River Art Festival I made a couple of 10.5 inch bowls and it made getting a smooth inside finish much easier than using the straight Robust tool rest. Green Sycamore cuts pretty well anyway, but I was able to use an 85 deg tool and get a nice clean surface with the rest and tool. The crowd just likes the long ribbon of shavings...well so do I. Here in Florida you still have to keep the robust tool rests coated with something as they will rust just like the cast and regular steel rests, but I'm sure you know that.
 
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This is my favorite tool rest shape for inside bowls.

http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/s...ests___S_Curve_Bowl_Rest___s_curve_rest?Args=

Micheal Mouse uses it also. Thing I like is that the hook near the rim allows you to work on the rim, and all the way down the inside of the bowl. I prefer a more curved rest on the inside, and the hook on the end as it allows you to easily go through the transition, across the bottom, and have a little extra to extend past the center of the bowl. It is cast and not as slick as the Robust, and it is rather wide, so if you drop your handle, the width interferes. I looked at the J rest, and still would prefer a curved part for the walls of the bowl, and it has no return to work on the bowl rim. I do like the Robust bowl rests. The radius is a bit tighter than I usually turn, but they work. The inside rest is rock solid all the way out to the end. The Oneway inside rest does chatter out on the end a bit.

I am trying to convince Brent that he needs to make a bowl rest more like the Craft Supplies one. He is concerned that the cost might make it too much for a lot of turners. I will talk to him some more in San Jose.

robo hippy
 
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tool rests.

"I can't figure out how to use curved rests inside a bowl without having the part near the rim getting in the way and hitting the handle of the gouge.
For that reason I generally don't use a curved rest inside a bowl."
Al

Al-that is the problem I have had with the one way curved rest. Unlike you guys that have a bigillion rests, I have the standard 12" ? oneway, and their curved one, and recently a small (8"?) straight one from Lyle Jamieson .(i.e 3) I have problems with deep bowls. (6-8" depths), When sweeping the corner and bottom, the gouge handle hits the rest near the rim and can't be angled toward the center of the bowl.
Donna-will the j rest be the way to go???? Gretch
 
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Well, the blue rest does a better job of that with the recurve at the top. When you do hit the rim or tool rest with your tool, that is when you change to a bottom of the bowl gouge with a 60 plus degree bevel. A shallower bevel, shorter handle, will almost always hit the rim of the bowl and/or the tool rest on deeper forms, but seldom on flatter ones. Geometry of bevels, tool rests, and arcs.

I can easily see having inside rests of several different arcs. On flatter shapes, most of the time I will use a straight rest. Oneway has a bigger arc, about a 9 inch radius. Robust has about a 6 inch radius arc. I can easily see having arcs from 6 to 10 or more inches, depending on what I am turning.

robo hippy
 

odie

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When you do hit the rim or tool rest with your tool, that is when you change to a bottom of the bowl gouge with a 60 plus degree bevel. A shallower bevel, shorter handle, will almost always hit the rim of the bowl and/or the tool rest on deeper forms, but seldom on flatter ones. Geometry of bevels, tool rests, and arcs.

Exactly, Robo Hippy.....you nailed it!.......:D

I was about to post this very thing, but you just did it!

Here's a link to Mike Mahoney's "bottom feeder" gouge that has a very blunted angle to the bevel:
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/store/Turning_Tools___Signature_Tools___Mike_Mahoney?Args=
I have several gouges that are ground similarly to this, and for the very bottoms of bowls, where it flattens out, this is the best way to grind a gouge for this specific purpose. When you use this tool, the handle swings away to the right and away from the left side of the tool rest......giving you the room you need to accomplish what needs to be done at the very bottom of the interior bowl surface.

The reason I've ordered the Robust J-Rest, is because neither my Robust standard inside rest, nor the Oneway inside rest flattens out at the tip......and, thus allowing the rest to be positioned close to the bowl bottom along the longer surface the J-rest provides. The Robust and Oneway can only be positioned at an angle to the bottom of the bowl......not parallel, like the J-Rest looks like it can do. I'm hoping the latter will afford me a little more tool control in this area......we'll see!

That's the theory, anyway......the larger J-Rest has been ordered, and I have yet to try it out.

Question for Donna Banfield: I see you have both of the J-Rests. Can you let us know how the differences in the two have their own positives and negatives.....if any?

Thanks

ooc
 
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Donna Banfield

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Al-that is the problem I have had with the one way curved rest. Unlike you guys that have a bigillion rests, I have the standard 12" ? oneway, and their curved one, and recently a small (8"?) straight one from Lyle Jamieson .(i.e 3) I have problems with deep bowls. (6-8" depths), When sweeping the corner and bottom, the gouge handle hits the rest near the rim and can't be angled toward the center of the bowl.
Donna-will the j rest be the way to go???? Gretch

Gretch, I think Robo Hippy answered as well as I could. I usually will move to a traditional grind bowl gouge for a tight curve, and for the bottom. The grind on that gouge allows me to keep the handle more horizontal, rather than vertical. Most tool handles will hit the rim if you're using a finger nail grind in a deeper bowl.
 
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odie said:
Exactly, Robo Hippy.....you nailed it!.......:D

I was about to post this very thing, but you just did it!

Here's a link to Mike Mahoney's "bottom feeder" gouge that has a very blunted angle to the bevel:
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/store/Turning_Tools___Signature_Tools___Mike_Mahoney?Args=
I have several gouges that are ground similarly to this, and for the very bottoms of bowls, where it flattens out, this is the best way to grind a gouge for this specific purpose. When you use this tool, the handle swings away to the right and away from the left side of the tool rest......giving you the room you need to accomplish what needs to be done at the very bottom of the interior bowl surface.

The reason I've ordered the Robust J-Rest, is because neither my Robust standard inside rest, nor the Oneway inside rest flattens out at the tip......and, thus allowing the rest to be positioned close to the bowl bottom along the longer surface the J-rest provides. The Robust and Oneway can only be positioned at an angle to the bottom of the bowl......not parallel, like the J-Rest looks like it can do. I'm hoping the latter will afford me a little more tool control in this area......we'll see!

That's the theory, anyway......the larger J-Rest has been ordered, and I have yet to try it out.

Question for Donna Banfield: I see you have both of the J-Rests. Can you let us know how the differences in the two have their own positives and negatives.....if any?

Thanks

ooc

I'd have to agree here too. I have D-Ways bottom feeder(grind looks the same as Mahoney's) and I love it. That grind has saved me quite a few times and on some very, very, very hard Manzanita bowls. When I first started turning several years ago I didn't get it with this grind but experience and watching others I learned how and where to use it and am now surprised I don't see it mentioned as much as it should be. And it's such a simple grind.
D-way's bottom feeder -
bowl-gouge-lg.jpg
 

Bill Boehme

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Creating hazardous dust during times other than sanding is pretty much a product of certain species of wood, or particular specific pieces of wood, rather than the method of material removal..... This is why I don't feel the need for air filtration 100 percent of the time while turning, and also the reason why I don't wear a bicycle helmet, either! :D

Interesting that you mentioned wearing a bicycle helmet. I have a bicycle that I haven't ridden around 25 to 30 years and this morning I put new tires on it, got it in working order and took it for a spin. Whoever said that you never forget how to ride a bicycle hasn't seen me. I don't have a bicycle helmet and never did -- I'm not sure that they were around way back when. But maybe I'm jumping to conclusions since you didn't say anything about riding bicycles. :D

I just got some new hollowing tools -- I'm pretty sure that the Trent Bosch class that I took a couple weeks ago had something to do with this. Anyway this inspired me to finish up a post oak burl hollow form that I have been working on intermittently for a number of years. What has discouraged me until now is that it is as hard as cast iron and full of very large hidden internal voids. This project would have been a good candidate for trying out a J tool rest. Anyway it is interesting that the dust from dry post oak doesn't seem to bother me even though it is not too far behind mesquite in the amount of dust that it creates. I'll probably pay for it later, but I did not use any sort of respiratory protection. The good news is most of the dust stayed in the hollow form until vacuumed out, but there was also a cloud of post oak dust hovering around the exterior while it was being hollowed.

.... I can't figure out how to use curved rests inside a bowl without having the part near the rim getting in the way and hitting the handle of the gouge.

I ran into the same problem with my curved tool rest. I actually prefer using a straight rest for both the exterior and interior of bowls.
 
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I have a couple of the bottom feeder type gouges, several of Doug Thopmson's fluteless gouges with 70 degree bevel, and ) nose profile, and just took a spindle/detail type gouge with very shallow flute, and ground the same nose profile and bevel. I prefer them to the bottom feeders, you can roll them on their sides, and get a higher shear angle. When I use the bottom feeders, I also roll them on their sides.

robo hippy
 

odie

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Interesting that you mentioned wearing a bicycle helmet. I have a bicycle that I haven't ridden around 25 to 30 years and this morning I put new tires on it, got it in working order and took it for a spin. Whoever said that you never forget how to ride a bicycle hasn't seen me. I don't have a bicycle helmet and never did -- I'm not sure that they were around way back when. But maybe I'm jumping to conclusions since you didn't say anything about riding bicycles. :D

Hey, very good on you, Bill!

Bicycling is a great way to keep the pump in order!

I put in 25 miles on Sunday afternoon......my little Dachshund hound-dog, Olive, eagerly takes her place in the front basket!

Yep.....no helmets in those days. I also grew up in the 50s and 60s, and in those times, bicycles were our transportation. Kids these days don't seem to ride as much as we did back then......too bad, they're really missing out!

I spent a year in West Germany during my time in the service, and during that time, I toured the back roads by bicycle. These excursions, taught me a lot about the real rural German people......I really am thankful to have had this experience, and have great admiration for them and their culture. One of the highlights was to be invited into the home and have supper with a very old farmer couple. There was a language gap, but it's a real treasure to have seen these people on their own turf.....eat their food and see how they live in their homes. Also was the only American at a German Oktoberfest......they really love their beer, and know how to have a good time.......people dancing on the tables!

Actually, except for a couple short 1-2 year gaps, I've been riding consistently since I was 3-4 years old! Speed isn't the object anymore......at 63, I'm slow enough to enjoy the scenery now!

Considering what the dollar was and is worth, good bicycles are still a real bargain. I bought a 21 speed hybrid a couple of years ago, and this bike is really a dream to ride.......and such ease of quick shifting!

Then there is the bad boy Harley when I want to set my hair on fire...........! :D

Keep it up, friend........:cool2:

ooc
 
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I can't figure out how to use curved rests inside a bowl without having the part near the rim getting in the way and hitting the handle of the gouge.
For that reason I generally don't use a curved rest inside a bowl.

Curved rests are a personal turning style thing. For my style they give some good support for scraping inside the bowl if I do that on a particular bowl.

Answer for those who feel that part of the rest gets in the way is not to change the rest, but the gouge. That way you may keep the handle within 15-20 degrees of horizontal from rim to button. On any bowl other than a right angle to a flat bottom, you merely steepen the pitch angle as you round out, going from a slicing to a nearly pure shearing scrape as you do. Broader bowls will allow the slice all the way, especially if you use short handles rather than hip-huggers. Since the curved rest will get you closer to the bottom than anything but the very corner of a straight one, it lends itself to a swing on a short fulcrum when the corner's tight.

Consider how the wood sees the edge in the comparison picture below.

As to Resp-o-Rator usage, The DC pulls six times the vacuum and a hundred times the volume it does, simple mask thereafter. You bearded guys can use a bit of Brylcreem on your beard to capture anything around the edges. Or just go with a tripled wet T-Shirt.

Only way I can make airborne dust when turning is to scrape rather than slice. Dust incidental to the slice, like crumbling endgrain, follows the shavings around the flute and exits under the influence of gravity, not air currents.
 

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hockenbery

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MichaelMouse said:
Answer for those who feel that part of the rest gets in the way is not to change the rest, but the gouge. That way you may keep the handle within 15-20 degrees of horizontal from rim to button. On any bowl other than a right angle to a flat bottom, you merely steepen the pitch angle as you round out, going from a slicing to a nearly pure shearing scrape as you do. Broader bowls will allow the slice all the way, especially if you use short handles rather than hip-huggers. .

Kind of my point. I can turn rim to center on any hemispherical shaped bowl up to about 14" with a straight rest and a bevel riding cut. My finish cut is a flute up shear cut with an Ellsworth ground gouge with the handle at level at the rim down a bit through the cut and back to level to hit center. With the 4-6" over the tool rest it helps to have alight touch and a long handle tucked against my side.

My experience with curved rest to date is they hinder more than help.

Our goal is to get a smooth curve on the inside of a bowl with a surface we can sand with 180 or 120.
If a curved tool rest is part of the process that is fine.
A curved tool rest is rarely part of my process.


Al
 
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john lucas

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In stead of using a custom grind bowl gouge to do the bottom of steep sided bowls I use the Hunter tools. They have about a 35 degree or less sharpening angle but because the bevel of the tool is about 82 degrees you can do very steep sided bowls and still do a bevel rubbing cut. It cut's extremely well.
I guess that's also why I seldom use my curved tool rests. The Hunter tool I use has a 5/8" shaft so you can really hang it over the edge and have good control.
I'm also a non helmut wearing bicyclist. I take flack from the local riders but then I seldom ride with them. I've been riding a bicycle for 57 years now and for the last 25 have ridden more than 1000 miles a year. I know I probably should wear one but I find them very uncomfortable. I sweat our of my forehead quite a bit and helmut just makes it worse. I've only had one accident in the last 25 years and that hurt my hand not my head.
 
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Straight tool rests can be used, and that is what I had for a long time. Thing is that the closer the tool rest is to the work, the more steady the cut is, well, add in body posture, moving with body and not arms, keeping tool close to the body rather than extended out. The thing with the straight rest is that you do have to hang out much more. I do not consider this a good habit for beginners to get into, mostly because the risk of catches go way up. An experienced turner can get away with it. Not every one has 5/8 inch gouges. With a curved rest, you can keep overhang to a minimum. Less work.

robo hippy
 

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For Odie

Sorry I missed your question earlier, when I replied to Gretch Flo's :D

The J-Curve rests that I have are home made versions, very similar to the ones that Hannes Michelsen uses on his hats. The 'J' allows you to get deep inside of the crown when turning hats. The two sizes are the large - for full size hats; and small for mini hats.

Both sizes work quite well in small and large bowls. And the traditional grind bowl gouge that I use for the bottoms and sharp, deep curves is exactly like D-Way's bottom feeder gouge.
 
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The resp-o-rator is great. Fifty dollars instead of $800, can't beat that. No heavy awkward helmet. All products have their pluses and misses. For fifty bucks anyone can buy the resp-o-rator and evaluate it.
 

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I have worn the Resp-o-rator for about an hour this morning. So far, it looks to be everything it's advertised to be.

I took the nose clip off and put it into the plastic storage box I'll use to store this item when not in use. The nose clip is pretty much intended for those people who wear a nose clip while swimming. In either case, I don't require one because I have no trouble preventing my breathing through the nose without using a clip.

If it were 1" wider, it would slip over my head without disconnecting the tubing. It would have been better that way, but disconnecting the tubing takes very little effort, regardless.

The valve works very well, and breathing through the Resp-o-rator is done very effortlessly.

Of course, I still have my Airstream helmet and regular rubber respirator. The Airstream is still the best air filtration method of the three, but I believe I'll use it ONLY when I anticipate extended periods of sanding.....and, since my skill level in turning has improved over the years, I'm doing less sanding than I ever have before.....yay! The Airstream requires using a utility belt to support the battery, has exposed wires, requires recharging, cleaning of the view shield, is not that lightweight, etc, etc, etc. It's still the most comfortable to wear, and unobtrusive while in use.....However, it's not nearly as convenient as the Resp-o-rator.

The HEPA filter is exposed and unless great care is taken to prevent damage, I can see how the filter could be damaged fairly easily. I have included a picture of my rubber respirator with this post. You will notice there is a plastic protective covering over the filters. That would have been a better way to design the Resp-o-rator.....so the filters are protected.

The old rubber respirator, also has worked very well over the years, but I've never enjoyed having the rubber seal around my face. It also condensates within the mask. I believe it's time to retire the rubber respirator.....and, that is a good thing!

So far, I'm inclined to give the Resp-o-rator a stellar review......and, if any issues develop, I'll stay in touch here..........

ooc
 

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Thanks for the review Odie. It's always good to get some "real" world info and not just the advertiser's say-so. Being a facial hair fellow, the 3M half-mask I have doesn't quite cut it when sanding. I have the mask with the round pink filter pads and it is considerably lightly in weight then the small metal cannisters. I may have to give this one a try.

Does anyone know if the Resp-O-Rator will fit under the UVEX bionic face shield? That seems to be my biggest question now.

Glenn
 

AlanZ

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Odie,

Just a thought... if you're finding the Airstream cumbersome...

You might want to consider the compact battery that I use with my AirStreams.

The lithium ion battery weighs only 4 ounces, is inexpensive (includes a charger) and is so light that I have it mounted atop the helmet, eliminating a cord going to the waist.

Those that have done the modification have been very pleased with the results, and you can still use your old battery if you want (though most won't).

Here's the thread that shows the setup
http://www.aawforum.org/vbforum/showthread.php?t=9320
 

Bill Boehme

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Odie, I wear a wide western belt that I got at Tractor Supply to hold the Airstream battery without any problem of sagging or rolling. Since I wear the belt most of the time anyway using the battery does not require a "special" belt.

The main problem with a curved toolrest is that I rarely turn a bowl shaped like the toolrest so tool overhang could actually be greater than with a straight rest (think of a bowl with a hyperbolic curve).
 
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respirator

i bought a res por ator a few years back and used it for about six months. it works as advertised but I found two problems. first, the mouth piece was uncomfortable. I even went to a scuba dive shop to see if it could be fitted with a larger, softer mouth piece. No luck. I did get used to it after awhile.

The killer for me was the dryness of the air.after about 5minutes use My mouth was very dry, yet spit was dropping from thr exit valve. It bothered me enough that I gave it away. I use a Trend air shield now.

But hey like someone else said, for fifty bucks you can try it out without breaking the bank.
Dick Hob
 

odie

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Odie,

Just a thought... if you're finding the Airstream cumbersome...

You might want to consider the compact battery that I use with my AirStreams.

The lithium ion battery weighs only 4 ounces, is inexpensive (includes a charger) and is so light that I have it mounted atop the helmet, eliminating a cord going to the waist.

Those that have done the modification have been very pleased with the results, and you can still use your old battery if you want (though most won't).

Here's the thread that shows the setup
http://www.aawforum.org/vbforum/showthread.php?t=9320

Hi Allen.......

Although I had forgotten it, I remember seeing the thread you initiated on the Airstream battery conversion earlier. This really is a great idea, and a better way of powering the Airstream unit. This conversion is something I may do in the future.

Actually, I don't really feel the original Airstream cumbersome, so to speak. It's not that bad once in use, but a bit of a hassle to get it set up and going. My thinking was there are times when I know I'll only be sanding for a very short period of time, and the Resp-o-rator looks pretty darn appealing as a quick and easy substitute for these times. (So far, it looks to be the case.) It's my intention to continue using the Airstream for those times I'll be sanding for extended times, or with certain woods, like spalting, or very dry wood, are being turned.

Thanks for the reminder. Your alternate power source for the Airstream really is a great idea, for sure!

ooc

Odie, I wear a wide western belt that I got at Tractor Supply to hold the Airstream battery without any problem of sagging or rolling. Since I wear the belt most of the time anyway using the battery does not require a "special" belt.

The main problem with a curved toolrest is that I rarely turn a bowl shaped like the toolrest so tool overhang could actually be greater than with a straight rest (think of a bowl with a hyperbolic curve).

Hello Bill,

Yes, a regular belt works fine with the Airstream. I'm using the utility tool belt (available at any hardware store) because my usual dress in the shop is sweat pants.......no belt there! (During the summer months, I often use gym shorts in the shop.....also, no belt.)

As for the Robust J-rest, it's not the "J" shape that is useful.....the only advantage is that hook end that is more parallel to the bottom of the bowl. That is what will be of use to me. Otherwise, the regular curved shape interior bowl rest shape is what I'll be using for the rest of the interior surface, as I did before. For my purposes, the J-rest will have a very limited purpose......but, nevertheless, a very specific, and from my perspective, a very valuable purpose in mind.

I used the J-rest on Sunday afternoon, and from all indications, it will live up to the purpose I had in mind. It gets into the very bottom of the bowl where it flattens out very nicely, so I anticipate this will be a tool rest I'll use with nearly every bowl I produce........albeit, only briefly, but of great benefit to my turning. My purpose was "tool control" in this area......and because it gets in close, and parallel to the bottom of the bowl, it looks like it contributes to that purpose as envisioned.

ooc

i bought a res por ator a few years back and used it for about six months. it works as advertised but I found two problems. first, the mouth piece was uncomfortable. I even went to a scuba dive shop to see if it could be fitted with a larger, softer mouth piece. No luck. I did get used to it after awhile.

The killer for me was the dryness of the air.after about 5minutes use My mouth was very dry, yet spit was dropping from thr exit valve. It bothered me enough that I gave it away. I use a Trend air shield now.

But hey like someone else said, for fifty bucks you can try it out without breaking the bank.
Dick Hob

Hello Dick,

I used my Resp-o-rator Sunday afternoon for 3-4 hours. For this amount of time, I intend to use my Airstream, but I was testing the Resp-o-rator. So far, so good!

My first thought about your problem with saliva dripping from the exhaust, was it reminded me of information in the instructions about this. I'm not diagnosing your problem, but it could be positioning of the mouthpiece between the teeth, instead of in front of the teeth......the instructions mentioned the excess saliva as indication of this. Anyway, I did not have this problem yesterday. Admittedly, I have limited experience with the Resp-o-rator at this point, so my evaluation is not based on extended use, so far.

I do see what you mean about the dryness in the mouth. I had the same thing happen to me. This is because the user is breathing through the mouth. For me, I found it very easy to drop the mouthpiece and take a drink of water occasionally......and, at any rate, I didn't find the dryness something I couldn't deal with......just something that is a side-effect that is easily addressed.

Because the Resp-o-rator is in your mouth, and a bit more intrusive than a filtered air helmet, I do see how some people probably will not be suited to using one. For me, and for short periods of time, I don't foresee there being a problem.......but, over time, I'll have better perspective........

thanks for your input......

ooc
 
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AlanZ

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Odie,

When I said cumbersome, I wasn't referring to it's actual use... but instead to any hesitation to use the helmet because of the (admittedly minor) effort in putting it on and situating the battery.

If a piece of safety gear isn't used (for whatever reason), then it's not effective.

It's kind of like having a fancy camera... and leaving it at home when you travel because you don't want to carry it around. A camera you have in your pocket takes much better photos than one sitting at home, locked in a closet < s >

So, one of the reasons I mount the compact battery atop of the Airstream is that it becomes a one piece unit. Plop it on my head, flip the switch and I'm ready. It probably takes more time to get a face mask or resp-o-rator fitted comfortably.

Easy on, easy flip up faceshield, easy off... the AirStream makes it easy for me to be ATGATT (a motorcycling term All The Gear, All The Time).
 

odie

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Odie,

When I said cumbersome, I wasn't referring to it's actual use... but instead to any hesitation to use the helmet because of the (admittedly minor) effort in putting it on and situating the battery.

If a piece of safety gear isn't used (for whatever reason), then it's not effective.

It's kind of like having a fancy camera... and leaving it at home when you travel because you don't want to carry it around. A camera you have in your pocket takes much better photos than one sitting at home, locked in a closet < s >

So, one of the reasons I mount the compact battery atop of the Airstream is that it becomes a one piece unit. Plop it on my head, flip the switch and I'm ready. It probably takes more time to get a face mask or resp-o-rator fitted comfortably.

Easy on, easy flip up faceshield, easy off... the AirStream makes it easy for me to be ATGATT (a motorcycling term All The Gear, All The Time).

Well....Yes, I think you are right on all points here, Alan.......

To tell you the truth, If I had remembered your Airstream battery conversion prior to purchasing the Resp-o-rator, I may have opted to go that route, instead. I sort of wish I had, but things are as they are......!

At this point, I think the Resp-o-rator covers my intent, and I really don't wish to add, yet more expense. I think the Resp-o-rator is a pretty good way to go for someone who doesn't already have the Airstream.....because you know the Airstream unit is very expensive these days. Very very good at what they do, but very expensive. For anyone like myself who already owns an Airstream, your invention would be the better way to go, rather than the way I chose to go......

It's true that I require respiratory protection only briefly quite often, while at other times, I know longer periods will be called for. I have been using the rubber face industrial respirator in quite the same way as I will be using the Resp-o-rator.......so, my "routine" will not change. The difference is one non-powered method of filtering the air will be replaced with another.

Just so you know, I think your little invention is a terrific idea, and it might have been the best way for me to go, had I not gone another route first.

Still, I will keep your battery conversion on the back burner, because it really is a "better mouse trap".........

Thanks........this whole thing boils down to "timing".........:D

ooc
 
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