Long Dust Collection question and newbie intro

[Matt Reagan]

Hello all,
A friend of mine started me into woodturning and so here I am. I do have one question. I read all I can on dust collection, here, pentz's website, and onieda's website and articles. But I still don't know the needs for dust collection of a lathe. I know I needed to upgrade after a few coughing fits in the garage this winter after sanding a bowl. I've purchased Jets air cleaner and now am looking at cyclone dust collection.

I'm upgrading from a shop vac and trashcan cyclone collection lid. I do "flatwork" for the family as projects arise, but my real concern is on the lathe as that's were I spend most of the my time.

So what are the real requirements for DC for lathe work? Will 110v cyclone DC (700-500 cfm) work next to the lathe? I understand the concept of buying the best, but my shop is all 110v. I'd have to add two subpanels to get 220v out to the garage as my current panel is full. So the price difference to upgrade to 220v DC is far steeper than just the cost of the machine. Thanks in advance.
Matt

 

[MichaelMouse]

Gravity is your friend, and the inverse cube rules. So get your collection point as close to the source as possible, and remember scooping from under is easier than picking it up from above. I just use HVAC ducts or dryer ducts with magnets to fasten to the ways on my lathe, and my collector is rated at 550 @8in vacuum. Gets 99 percent of what I generate sanding outside a bowl, and 95 percent inside. I have to sweep the dust out periodically as the piece rotates, so a bit decorates the ways for later pickup.

That and a nuisance mask should take care of anything solid. If you sand as I do, standing straight up, you can dispense with the mask and have a clean Kleenex after a half hour's work. Distance works nearly as well as deflection.

 

[john lucas]

MM's right. You really can't pick up the shavings it's the dust you try to control. I run the dust collector while I'm turning to try and pick up whatever dust is created during that operation and then usually move the dust collector nozzle closer while sanding.

 

[Dick Sowa]

I agree...move the DC hose close to your turning. I have my DC 4" hose near the bottom and behind my turning, as close as I can get it. That way, about 95% of all dust from sanding is sucked away. I also wear a dust mask constantly when sanding.

As far as the CFM are concerned, 500-700 will do just fine. Reading and studying the specs and design recommendations for ductwork, fittings, etc is a good thing. But in the end, if you are like me, you will wind up making a lot of tweaks to the layout and placement of things before you settle on an arrangement that works for you.

 

[Thomas Stegall]

Dust Collection Tips

While I can't recite the math involved, simple tips for dust collection are these;

The closer to the lathe the better,

straight, smooth tubing looses less suction than corregated flexible tubing,

smaller tubing for the bulk of tubing length will help with maintaining suction

you loose alot of suction at gates and curves,

the more you can reduce the DC noise in your shop and the closer the on/off switch the more you will use it

 

[Andrew Meyer]

Collecting dust from a lathe is very difficult, as you've learned. There's no doubt that with big enough vacuums placed close to the work, it will work. But it will cost a lot and you will need 220v. But, there's a much simpler solution for now.
Use an N95 mask that has two rubber bands and a one way valve. They work very well, they're cheap, and youand your lungs will be happy. Your dust collector can also help but the primary protection is the mask. When weather permits put a box fan in the window behind the lathe and open a window behind you. This will get the dust out of the house. This is what I use.
When you become a sought after turner, you can buy a very good dust collector. But for now, put your money into turning tools.

 

[Mark Wollschlager]

My take on this.
I have a Jet 650 ( 110v ) with the canister filter.
Am using a trashcan cyclone to separate the chunks and shavings from the fine dust.
It is suitable for lathe and bandsaw collection.
I have not had to empty the Jet bag after several years of use. It just has a gallon or so of really fine stuff in the bottom.
I position a flex tube with a hood near the headstock when sanding.
I also have a Delta air cleaner which runs whenever sanding or dry wood is being turned.
An important factor for the air cleaner is to allow it to run After you are done sanding.
Most have a timer specifically for this purpose. The dust hangs around in the air for a long while after your sanding is done.
I also use a dust mask N95 type.
This combination works for me and does not take up a bunch of room.
It is all pretty movable so I can clean and re-arrange the shop/garage space when needed.

A big cyclone would be nice if I had a taller ceiling

 

[Andrew Meyer]

You are correct that the dust is still in the air for a long time. So, the only real protection for your lungs is the N95 mask.
The mechanical vacuums certainly help but the volume of the room and their capacity puts them at a disadvantage to get the dust in a timely manner. Long term inhalation of dust particles is not good.
If cost was not a concern, you could build a laminar flow room and turn to your heart's content without a mask.

 

[Matt Reagan]

Thanks all. I'm going to order the grizzly or penn state 110v cyclone. This with the jet air cleaner and a small respirator should work out. I'll post something after a few months into the new system. I gotta go turn some wooden eggs for the holidays.