The Sanding Solution from The Sanding Glove

[Michael Powers]

So I am looking to improve my sanding. I am mostly making bowls right now. I read through the thread from the guy that has 152 (about) roughed out bowls and came to the conclusion that the Foredom flexshaft was the ticket. So I called to order one from the Sanding Glove web site. Mr Hoover told me that for what I was doing, that was not the best solution. He suggested something he calls "The Sanding Solution". It is basically an unpowered spinning 2" disk on the end of a wand. Sounds great, but holy smokes - $160. If it works, I have no problem with the money, but I don't want to drop that kind of money for a novelty. Does anyone have one of these things? Do they work?

 

[holmqer]

Looks like a fancy version of the inertial sanders that many companies make. Some folks swear by them, I tend to use and angle drill with sanding disks and they work fine for me.

 

[Matthew Clarke]

I've owned my Sanding Solution for about 5 years. At that time, it cost a lot less than its current price. I have owned other inertial sanders and (in my opinion) they don't measure up in performance. If you purchase one, just make sure that that you don't press the sander to the surface with a lot of force. In fact, let me state it more positively, use it with a very light touch. I think that it is a terrific tool. Nowadays, I rarely power sand (except at the very bottom of a vessel).

Matt

 

[Bill Boehme]

I have seen the Sanding Solution tool and it is a very well built high quality tool. I own the Sorby sanding tool which has a family resemblance to the Sanding Solution. The Sorby is OK, but not exactly something to write home about.

I started out hand sanding and then went through various gimmicks and now I am back to hand sanding. It is hard to beat the fine control advantage of hand sanding. If you have to do a lot of sanding then perhaps use of turning tools needs to be looked at.

 

[Barry Elder]

After reading Russ Fairfield's info on sanding, I wound up using an ordinary variable speed drill with a mandrel and 2" discs from Turningwood. Very good discs, I might add. I know there are a few of the type of tools you speak of, but when I started, my mentor used a drill and I happened to have one so that is the route I took. The most important part of this post is the info about Russ Fairfield!

 

[Hal Taylor]

Michael, I would suggest not think about a Foredom for sanding bowls. It is a very useful tool for doing multiple other jobs including sanding, but it's really not suited for bowl sanding. I mostly use drill mounted sanding pads, but as was stated by others, hand sanding is my go to method.

 

[Rick Anderson]

I bought the Sanding Solution (along with a lot of other things!) at the 2007 Symposium when I was a relatively inexperienced turner. I had previously tried a house brand inertia sander from one of our favorite suppliers. No comparison! I use the Sanding Solution on virtually everything I turn from spindle work to bowls and couldn't be more pleased with the results. It's versatile and the precision bearings result in a very smooth action. You won't be disappointed.

 

[Gynia]

I feel it's technique not tools which will make the biggest difference in the effectiveness of your sanding. Look at the Show&Tell pieces at your club meeting. Talk to the turners who have the best finish. See if one of them will spend a day with you sanding half a dozen turnings you have that are ready for sanding. You will improve your sanding more than any tool. If you pay $100 for such instruction you will be way ahead of the game.

The instruction should like take place at the "experts" shop so that they have all the resources they are familiar with and you can see what tools the expert uses and what techniques the expert uses.

It may be the "sanding solution" is the answer. But learning how to use it and what procedures to use will end up being priceless.

 

[MichaelMouse]

A flexible shaft is an excellent approach to power sanding. Not sure I'd use the Foredom system, given the price, but if you have other uses, might not be a bad choice. I use the ball-bearing flex shaft available from several sources http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2020037/18768/Guinevere-Flexibleshaft-With-Chuck.aspx and an old induction-run 1725 motor. To think, as little as two years ago when I bought my last one it sold for $50!

The advantage it gives is the ability to use it as you had been using your other tools, supported on the toolrest. This allows you to keep minimum pressure on the paper for minimum heating. The self-powered sanders demand you have a spin surface and a sand surface at an angle to it to be effective. Doable, but the squirm in the paper diminishes its life to half or less of what you might expect from a similar grit and backing working with minimum surface contact. Your wrist is also released from the task of supporting and maintaining the free-wheeler, which can be a blessing at the end of the day.

I love my powerlock disks, because they last and last, and can be used in either firm or flexible backing to match the task at hand. http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Mer...e=packard&Category_Code=snding-bholdext-power On convex surfaces I favor the inside of the disk, since concave surfaces will use the outside. Can't completely equalize wear, of course, but it does help. http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/GoodOnesGone/Flex-Edge-2.jpg

These hard-back types are much too aggressive to use unless the work is in motion, but the other advantage of the flex shaft is that it can mount soft backs as well. It will also sand with the work static, something impossible to do with the work-powered types! If you feel a work-powered type is what's required, you can take the shaft off the motor and let it free-wheel. Not with the hard disks, of course!

 

[odie]

I have a cheapie inertia sander that I haven't touched in years. I can remember experimenting with it and not getting anywhere near the results I can get with a powered drill in conjunction with hand sanding in the final grits.

Just wondering if anyone can link to a video of an inertia sander demonstration from someone who has the experience and really knows how to get results with it......?

Thanks in advance.......

ooc

 

[Bill Boehme]

I use my Foredom tool for power carving. It would not be a good choice for sanding other than sanding fine details on a carving. The best tool is the Armstrong sander. You probably already have a couple of them. It can be powered either by the lathe or elbow grease.

 

[john lucas]

I'm a fan of just a good ole electric drill. Don't buy the really cheap ones they don't last. I use a $60 Dewalt and have used it for many years. Like Bill I use a lot of Elbow Grease. If you cut clean enough with your tools you don't need much sandpaper and hand sanding works fine.

 

[Steve Worcester]

Sanding doesn't have to be such a chore. Personally, I use a right angle drill and hook and loop. Never used the "solution", but never really liked inertia sanders since they need the wood to be spinning for them to work. Just never found them as versatile.

 

[waltben]

Since I really hate sanding, I've tried just about every gimmick out there at one time or another. I keep going back to alternating hand and power at each different grit. That way I can be certain I've sanded out any 'lines' from the previous grit. Since I sand to at least 1,000 grit, this can be important.

 

[John Altberg]

A flexible shaft is an excellent approach to power sanding. Not sure I'd use the Foredom system, given the price, but if you have other uses, might not be a bad choice. I use the ball-bearing flex shaft available from several sources http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2020037/18768/Guinevere-Flexibleshaft-With-Chuck.aspx and an old induction-run 1725 motor. To think, as little as two years ago when I bought my last one it sold for $50!

Here is where I bought mine. Two years of use and still going strong at 40 percent of the cost of the one above. They look to be the same item!

http://www.garrettwade.com/hd-flexible-shaft/p/35N06.01/

John

 

[MichaelMouse]

Here is where I bought mine. Two years of use and still going strong at 40 percent of the cost of the one above. They look to be the same item!

http://www.garrettwade.com/hd-flexible-shaft/p/35N06.01/

Yep, that's about right. If folks are considering, they should avoid sleeve bearings and the gray-handpiece super-stiff one that Lee Valley sold. It was too difficult to maneuver. Think my keyless came from Woodworkers' Supply. http://woodworker.com/heavy-duty-flexible-shaft-mssu-116-753.asp?search=flexible shaft&searchmode=2

 

[CTutor]

Sanding

You can get a cheepy close quarter drill on ebay for about $30. A bunch of sanding discs for a bit more. The drill will last years and is a throw away at the end. It can be used whether the piece is turning or not. You can zero in a particular spots while the piece is standing still. Can;t do that with the Sanding solution or any other inertia type unit. Am I biased? Yep and I still do some hand sanding too.

 

[Mark Levitski]

I tinkered with the idea of the Sanding Solution when I was trying to figure out how to efficiently sand the inside of my hollow forms (they are a little bigger than the ones where you can reach in by hand at slow speeds to get most of it, and of course the bottoms can be had by a standard mandrel w/ extension). I finally settled on attaching a thick foam velcro backng pad to my hook hollowing bar. Works great. Why wouldn't you use the same tool that you used to reach areas to cut for sanding as well?

Anyway, I digress. As almost everyone said, power sanding is the way to go except for those unusual circumstances. Experiment to get what you like for the right mandrels, backing pads, sandpaper, etc.

Now, re: drills. I am a huge supporter of finding the best buy in this department, and I am no loyalist to any brand per se. I have tried just about every brand, especially the cheapies. But in my own experience there has been absolutely no consistency in quality in these inexpensive models. You roll the dice, and if that's fun or if that works for you, go for it. If you are the occasional turner, it can be the way to go. If you get lucky, they can last quite a while. There are a lot of semi or full professional turners on this forum. It is, after all, the AAW. Even if I do not count myself to be among them, I cannot depend on inconsistency in my turning processes and production. If my sanding drill fails and I don't have two (do you all have two? I don't yet), what do I do while I either wait for the next one to show up or take the time and money to go out and buy another one from HF? Factor these things in when you configure your own generic "sanding solutions".

I settled on the newer version of the Milwaukee close quarters drill. So far it's been in 3 years or so of hard, hard use. I do about 150 turning a year, and my wife uses it at least as much for her woodworking. Costs probably about $110 or so, but all I've had to do recently is replace the bottom bearing which was easy. And I didn't have to run out every couple months (the lifetime of the Sioux and it's copies) and get another drill. By the way, I think I paid about as much for the original Sioux. It was a big disappoinment and did not last "years" for me.

Advice from a stranger over the internet...........

 

[David Wilkins]

I never got a close quarters drill.
I did get this
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=58827&cat=1,43411,43417
it works well as an inertial sander as well as a close quarters drill with my milwaulkee drill I "borrowed" from Dad. The drill is probably 25 years old and saw some very hard construction use.
between those two and an extension for the neoprene hook and loop system I use I do okay I guess.

 

[Charles Henderson]

My advice is to go to the local hardware store and pick up any cheap $20-$30 die grinder and some 2" sanding discs. I have two of them (straight and angled) and have been using them for sanding exclusively for years. The only time I use powered sanding is occasionally on the bottom of a bowl or vessel. I'll also hand sand or use a RO sander when necessary.

I'm not saying inertia sanding is superior to power sanding, mostly because I haven't bothered with powered sanding very much, but I have had excellent results with few exceptions.

I discovered inertia sanding when I first started turning when I picked up a Sorby Sandmaster. It was great for a while, but eventually the inadequate bearings started wearing and spitting black oil onto my turnings. It now sits on a shelf while I use the die grinders.

The Sanding Solution looks like an awesome tool. Depending on the bearings I would love to have it, especially for the articulating head. If the bearings are similar to those in the Sorby Sandmaster, then I'll save my money for something else.

 

[Bill Boehme]

I've got a Sioux that has lasted seven years so far. I am not a production turner, but I do turn quite a few things, but only some of the bowls and most hollowforms get power sanded. I treat my tools well and clean out the dust after every use which I feel can only be good for the tool. Many of my fellow club members use the cheap close quarters angle drills from HF and toss them when they wear out in a few weeks. Some of the other members also have Sioux drills, but I have not heard any complaints about them.

 

[hughie]

Diy

I have built my own version of the sanding solution for HV for going through small openings around 1". It works fine although with the small disc size wear is increased and heat build can be a problem if your aggressive with it.

 

[Michael Powers]

Update - I did buy the "sanding solution" and got it in the mail a couple of days ago. One thing about it, if I am ever attacked by a grizzly bear I will have a weapon to fend it off! This thing is built like a tank! The machining is definitely top notch.. it appears to be a very high quality tool. I will turn something this weekend (after hiding the eggs for the grandkids) and post a report on its performance.

 

[Bill Boehme]

Just tell the grizzly bear to get his own. Sounds great. I've looked at them a couple times at SWAT, but the price tag managed to keep me fended off.

 

[Michael Powers]

I have to say that I am now a fan of inertial sanders. I turned a goblet yesterday and I can definitely see the benefit of this tool. Not only does it speed the sanding process, but it definitely gives a superior finish with the finer grits. The only drawback that I can see right now is it has limitations where you can use it on the piece.

Is this particular inertial sander worth the high price tag? I will let you know in 10 years or so. If it holds up then it is definitely worth the high price. But if it wears out.. not so much.

 

[odie]

I have a cheapie inertia sander that I haven't touched in years. I can remember experimenting with it and not getting anywhere near the results I can get with a powered drill in conjunction with hand sanding in the final grits.

Just wondering if anyone can link to a video of an inertia sander demonstration from someone who has the experience and really knows how to get results with it......?

Thanks in advance.......

ooc

Here's a youtube link to the Sorby Sandmaster demonstration:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rsHBHpiKEKE

Unfortunately, it doesn't show any interior sanding......

It looks to me like this tool will have trouble negotiating anything but a very mildly sloping surface. This is the trouble with random orbital sanders, too.......and they have a power source!

I'm on my way out to the shop right now, as I type, and will be digging up that old cheapo inertia sander to try out on a Red Box Elder bowl that is half finished on the lathe.......I'll report back later.



ooc

How about a bowl like this one in the pic? There is no way to sand in the more difficult areas......except under power and by hand.

 

[Matthew Clarke]

Is this particular inertial sander worth the high price tag? I will let you know in 10 years or so. If it holds up then it is definitely worth the high price. But if it wears out.. not so much.

I have had one for a few years. It is built like a tank. It grips the stem of the sanding pad by a collet. So, never use a pad for the Sanding Solution in a chuck. The chuck will leave burrs on the stem and ruin it for use in the Sanding Solution. When you use the Sanding Solution, hold it lightly against the piece you are working on. It does not require a lot of pressure. Obviously, I think that it was worth every penny that I paid for it. Enjoy using it.

Matt

 

[odie]

OK.....finished the Box Elder bowl.......

The inertia sander did better than I can remember it did.......but, still......I just don't see how this can ever be better than power sanding......

......Not convinced the inertia sander is better. It works, I'll grant you that....just not better.

ooc

 

[hockenbery]

Oldie

For 2.5 to 3 inch Christmas ornament balls.
I think nothing beats a short handled inertial sander.
If you have three with 180, 220, 320. Sanding is fast and easy.

I have a perception and inertial sander leave fewer scratches
No scientific evidence.

Al

 

[MichaelMouse]

For 2.5 to 3 inch Christmas ornament balls.
I think nothing beats a short handled inertial sander.

Unless it's a sharp chisel. They're 320 with the grain stuff, unless you're turning spruce.

 

[odie]

Oldie

For 2.5 to 3 inch Christmas ornament balls.
I think nothing beats a short handled inertial sander.
If you have three with 180, 220, 320. Sanding is fast and easy.

I have a perception and inertial sander leave fewer scratches
No scientific evidence.

Al

Howdy Al......

I haven't tried anything that small diameter, and my first thought is you are probably right about the advantage of an inertia sander for this particular application. Sooner or later, I'll give it a go, but don't have any immediate projects for a test......thanks for the heads up!

ooc