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Steady Rest: who's making them?

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I'm in the market for a steady rest for my PM 3520. My interest is bowls and hollow forms.

Google tells me that Robust and the Spin Dr. are selling circular rests and Oneway a post rest.

Jeff Nicol tells me he is out of the business.

Are there any other sources for steady rests?

What are your favorite brands?

Thanks, Tom
 
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I sold the Spindoctors I had. Thing was built like a tank and weighed like one too. Right now I'm using the Oneway. I'm waiting for someone to make them from Carbon Fiber then I'll probably buy another round one.
 

Bill Boehme

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Steve Sinner also makes a very heavy duty model which is sold through The Sanding Glove. I saw it at SWAT installed on a long bed Robust and was very impressed. Sinner also makes a very heavy duty hollowing rig.

James Combs on Saw Mill Creek has published a tutorial on making your own steady rest which is very similar to the one that Jeff Nicol used to make. Here is the link: James Combs Steady Rest. It is a zip file, so the pdf must be extracted from the self executing zip before you can open it. When presented with the option of opening or saving, select save and then choose a location such as the desktop. This is one of those articles that is impossible to find unless you already know precisely where to look and even then it takes some digging to find it.

You could also build your own out of Baltic birch plywood. There is very little load on the rollers so contrary to popular belief, it does not need to be built like a tank.
 
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Re: 3 Point Steady Rest

Hi T. J.
The One Way, is a great rest and have you looked at the CLARK. Lee Valley also makes one for a little less money that does the job.

Good Luck
Larry
 

Bill Boehme

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I sold the Spindoctors I had. Thing was built like a tank and weighed like one too. Right now I'm using the Oneway. I'm waiting for someone to make them from Carbon Fiber then I'll probably buy another round one.

Brian, I was in the process of composing my post before your reply was posted so my comment about a tank has nothing at all to do with your post. My statement is mainly about a general assumption that the rollers need to carry a substantial load. In actuality, the rollers only make light contact with the turning. The steady rest itself can't be flimsy or it will be a contributor to vibration rather than damping it.
 

hockenbery

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Woodbine USA has a round one in popular sizes. It has a
They were at the AAW symposium last year and at the Tampa working show.
They have a web site.

I have one made by John Nichols which does the job but weighs a ton.
I don't. Use it often but if you do deep hollow forms it is a must.

Al
 
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The Oneway bowl steady base can be used with either the bowl steady or spindle steady heads. Nice feature, if you need it.

I don't think you need 3-6 points of contact on a bowl steady. Enough that you steady just prior and dampen just after the tool does its work. When I did such things, worked fine for hollowing through a hole as well. Spindle steady is intrusive, but you normally use it away from the area under revision. Your hand is what you use opposite the tool tip.
 
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I think I went to the Oneway due to a recommendation from a posting by MM. With my back condition picking up a 60-80lb steady rest just wasn't feasible for me anymore(7 fused disc in back). I've not had any problems with the Oneway steadys(I have 2). They are lite weight and easy to move around and adjust.
 
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No need to lift all the time. Take a look to the rear and right here up to about 20 sec (and later) for a suggestion. http://s35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/GoodOnesGone/?action=view&current=BottomHoldProcess.mp4

Couldn't do this when I had my gap-bed Delta, but with no gap, the base and post store under and behind the chuck. Post has even been used to hold a dust pickup. Only caution is to swing it out BEFORE you cut the interior, or you'll end up cussing and remounting on bowls within an inch of capacity.
 
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I bought a Clark rest shortly after I got my Stubby about 10 years ago. Set up to take up to 19-1/2", it was a substantial piece of iron. However, I wound up having to modify it by adding More Steel as the ring, comprised of a band plus arcs welded in a "T" configuration, had too much flex to handle a large turning with varying densities as can occur with crotch wood. I added a second ring and increased the weld points which stiffened it right up. Also added a fair amount of weight so that when I need to use the beast, I have to lift it onto the lathe with my overhead traveler winch.

Have to say that unless you're into large/long turnings, it's doubtful you'll get your money's worth when buying this kind of item. Note also, that the framework will present some interference if you hollow with a laser guide.

That said, it looks impressive as hell when friends visit the shop. I have mine hung on the wall next to my set of wheel & gear pullers and the collection of oil filter wrenches. :D
 
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Thanks for all the info; I've got some more research to do.

Best regards, Tom
 

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I have both the Oneway and Spin Doctor steady rests.

Both are quality, and work well.

The Oneway is something I couldn't live without. It works, and definitely does reduce vibration. It would be incorrect to state it will aways eliminate vibration. There are times when it does, sure......but a reduction in vibration is something that is very helpful, as well.

The Clark "Spin Doctor" steady rest is also a good one. I special ordered a 5-point Spin Doctor, and I've completed a few bowls that were impossible for the Oneway to handle.

Generally, the really big and deep bowls are those that best benefit with the Clark steady rest. For 90 percent of the turnings, the Oneway does fine, but those few times where the Clark Spin Doctor works better, is priceless!

For anyone contemplating a steady rest, I'd suggest getting the Oneway first. It works, and for most applications, works well. Not everyone will need the Clark rest, but a few will need something that big........In my opinion, everyone will benefit from the smaller Oneway bowl steady.

The Clark rest is very heavy, as was stated. That something you can live with, given the great benefits it yields. For those who have physical limitations that hinder mounting this rest to their lathe, may I suggest a simple pulley and rope attached to the ceiling?

ooc
 

Bill Boehme

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Bill, how much do they weigh. I'm guessing about the same as everyone else's correct?

I don't know, Brian. I am still shopping. I have heard that they are heavy, but I suppose that any steady with a 25 inch swing will be heavy. The OP is looking for one with a 20 inch swing so it will be a bit lighter. The difference in circumference is about 16 inches, so whatever that amount of tubing weighs is most of the difference. The length of the roller arms will also be different by a couple inches each. The width and gap of various lathe beds will have a slight effect on the weight of that part. Then some models also offer the option of having four support rollers instead of three.

It appears that even for any given brand, there could be significant variation in weight depending on size and configuration.
 
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Bill, since you're still shopping I'll tell you than I ordered one from Awilda and Rick Wilson at A-R Liberty, http://www.ar-liberty.com/steady_rests.html. This was from a reco and endorsement by Steve Harder and MartyL above. Thanks to both of you.

Couldn't resist the husband/wife team, the name and the prompt, thorough response to an email query. The product seems to speak for itself: CNC fabrication, powder coated, and priced right compared to the balance of the market.

We'll see when it gets to Georgia and I'll report back to you.

Best regards, Tom
 
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I bought the Clark Steady mentioned in previous threads. It is the only one I have and so far I have not had a need for any additional steady rests but the points others make are good ones. When I first was looking to buy a steady rest I wanted one that do it all and not have others laying around. Was I right ? well it depends on your point of view so, here is mine:
The Clark can be custom made with additional rollers or whatever you want if you ask. I have mine with 4 points and had it shipped with only 3 rollers/rods on it.

I do alot of deep hollowing and love using it - it is also a nice safety feature (or a must) to have it on when hollowing out larger vessels or bowls. Others made good points about how strong it is and how heavy it is .......and they are right.

The negative mentioned is the upper arm can get in the way of your laser..........that is true......but with the additional (4th receiver sleeve on the frame) sleeve you can move it off to the side a bit and that helps a great deal or another thing I can do is to move the laser up higher over the rod and complete that part. It is heavy and made of steel but im glad it is and I know when I use it there is no wobble etc.- The wheels are easy to replace if needed but thats true on all of them - It is secure and strong.

Another thing I liked when buying it was the ability to talk directly to the owner and discuss things prior to purchasing it. Knowing he can make additional pc's for it later if you want them was another nice option that some do not offer you.

Im sure Clark is not the only one out there with the same positive points I made so if you find a vendor that offers the positves your looking for im sure you will have found a good steady rest.
 
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Bill, I have one of the ones made by Rick and Awilda, and it does a great job! The only modification I would make is to use plastic knob bolts for tightening the mounting plate to make it easier to install/remove.
 
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Oneway steady rest.

Been using mine for quite some time and it does reduce chatter. I just got tired of busting my thumb on natural edges and worm holes. One thing I don't understand, is why does it need 4 different wrenches to operate. I taped the whole bunch together, but it does seem a little welding is in order.
 

john lucas

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odie

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Been using mine for quite some time and it does reduce chatter. I just got tired of busting my thumb on natural edges and worm holes. One thing I don't understand, is why does it need 4 different wrenches to operate. I taped the whole bunch together, but it does seem a little welding is in order.

Howdy Gregg.......

I hear ya, man.......Oneway needs to get their act together and make the adjustments a little more "user friendly"! :(

Mine no longer needs four different wrenches to set up. If you'll take a look at these two pictures, you'll see I've made some modifications......The only wrench it needs for set-up is for tightening the mounting bolt to the bedways. The height of the scissors is permanently set by a piece of PVC cut to the correct length (This height never changes, if the lathe used remains the same). I've modified the post bolt, and welded it to a "T" configuration, and is set by hand. The scissors lock is modified to a wing nut, and requires only finger pressure. If the scissors spring modification is being used, the wingnut need not be tightened to allow for movement of the scissors.

You'll see a hex wrench attached to the PVC pipe. This is in case I need to remount the main post. It's there and handy.......but, in the 6-7 years I've been using the Oneway bowl steady, I think I've only needed to make this adjustment one time, that I can recall.......this is a case of my "over-thinking" the need! :eek:

Anyway, it's now much easier to use, and less complicated........:D

ooc
 

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Bill Boehme

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I should add an update that I bought the Robust Steady Rest and took delivery at SWAT. I have not weighed it (I can if someone really wants to know), but it is very heavy and rock solid. Like most of the others, it would be nice if it had knobs or levers rather than needing a wrench and a large hex key to set it up.

I also bought the Robust outboard tool rest which is really heavy. I made a modification to the swing arm by adding thrust washers. You could also add thrust bearings which do not cost very much.
 
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