Branding Irons / Signing Work

[Greg Keddy]

I am looking for a more consistant way to sign the work that I sell. I would like to design a logo and have it machined into a branding iron, but this seems to be a very expensive option. I'd love to hear some methods that people use to repeadtedly sign their work

 

[Robert Arnold]

Greg, you can have a die made in copper and you can heat it with a handheld torch. It is a lot cheaper than purchasing a pre-made branding iron. I get my printing dies from Owosso Graphics. They do have a minimum purchase size of 20 square inches which is $41.00. You could probably get a couple of logos and signatures on a peice this size so you could share the cost. You can get the die on 1/4" thick copper which works great. You would just need to come up with a way to hold the die when heating it, it could get hot if you tried to hold it with your fingers.

Robert
The Dog House Workshop

 

[Dick Sowa]

I am probably not the best adviser, since I have only sold a few things. But for me, the easiest and most effective way to sign my work is with a black ultrafine Sharpie...after all finishing and buffing is done. Yeah, for really dark work (ex: walnut) it doesn't show up all that well...but it is still visible. Bottom line, cost is a couple bucks...lots cheaper than woodburning.

 

[Mike McDonald]

Depending on the complexity of your mark (in blacksmithy, it's referred to as a maker's mark or touch mark), you can get a scrap piece of steel and use a dremel to get rid of the negative.

Most steel shops will let you poke through their drops, and often they'll just give you the little bit you need. Have them, or someone, weld a piece of pencil rod on the back side. Turn a handle with a 1/4" hole for the pencil rod and voila.

For my mother's, I got a piece of 1/2" x 1" bar stock, ground and filed the end flat, then cut a thin slice after dremel-ing (is that a word?) the mark. The 8" bar will probably let me make a couple dozen marks, if needed.

Don't forget to reverse the mark, if it's not symmetrical - I had my mother's completely finished and tried it out before I realized I forgot to reverse it.

Also, try to minimize the 'extra' steel around your mark - this will let you heat it much quicker with a propane torch.

When using the iron, I told her to hit the back side of the brand with some steel wool or fine sand paper, just enough to get 'shiny' metal. Then she heats it with a torch until the shiny bit turns blue before applying it to the wood. The oxide color is an indication of temperature, so this allows her some consistency in the way the iron burns the wood.

I don't have any handy (I'm goofing off at work) but I'll post pictures of the one I made my mother when I get home this afternoon.

I still haven't gotten around to making my own, even though my mark is far simpler than hers...

 

[Greg Keddy]

Thanks for the tips all, I'll give them all a shot. I used to sign with sharpie, but I like the idea of burning, so thats my next method of choice.

I am going to try Owosso and see what price they expect - I tried designing something on emachineshop.com and I think it came out to $300 or so...outside my budget

I havent tried dremel-ing (defined as the art of brandishing a rotary tool with very little skill, in my case) as my lack of manual dexterity is what is keeping me from just signing everything with a woodburning pen, but why not? I'll give that a try too. I'd like to see the results of your work Mike when you get the chance.

 

[Patrick Miller]

branding-

I like to sign my pieces with a burning tool but my hand writing, even on paper is pretty bad. Seems to get worse with a burning tip and wood. I have made a logo of first two letters of my first and last name using a strip of brass folded, bent and silver soldered that I simply heat with a torch and burn into the bottom. From there I can add the rest of the letters of my name, wood variety, date or simply go with the logo.

 

[Joe Wiener]

Did someone already mention that Rockler's custom branding irons start at $50?

 

[herb]

signing work

Hi,

Here is another possibility. I use a fine vainer to carve my logo and date. My logo is made of my first and last initials - h and d

Herb

 

[Mike McDonald]

Apologies for the image size (293KB), but I thought you might want the detail.

Note that the bulk behind the mark really should be reduced to speed heating/cooling.

You can see three marks I did quickly on a scrap piece of hickory, a shot of the overall tool (I don't know why she likes Tulipwood), two of the mark sketches from my sketch book, and a detail of the steel mark.

The mark could be improved with just a little more time/attention with the dremel, but she's happy enough with it as is.

Sorry for the slightly blurry image of the mark, but I was borrowing the camera and it's the best I could quickly manage.

--

My mom's name is Carol, but she's known as "Cricket" by her side of the family. After she shot down several sketches with corporeal crickets, she settled on the stylized C forming the cricket's head with antannae and an eye.

 

[odie]

I've had several custom branding irons made up to my specifications in the past, but have evolved to doing my stylized initials by hand on every turning.

This isn't to say that the branding irons don't look professional, but there's something about an individual hand done logo that I like in particular.

I am using a wood-writer purchased from CSUSA about 1990, now redesigned and called the "cub". Mine looks different because it's an earlier version, but essentially the same guts and pen to it.

Click to see the "cub":
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/store/Pyrography___Cub_Woodwriter___cub?Args=

There's one advantage to the wood-writer over a branding iron, and that is you don't have to manually heat it up with a torch, or wait for the electric unit to heat up......it's ready in about 5 seconds!

ooc

 

[n7bsn]

Did someone already mention that Rockler's custom branding irons start at $50?

The LOML gave me one of those a few years ago, IMO they are only good for flat work, that is unless you can get that part of your turning you are going to sign, perfectly flat (as if it was flatwork).

I sign with a pyro-pen. The only issues are my poor penmanship, and some issues the grain, particularly late-wood/early-wood in softer woods

 

[Bill Boehme]

I agree with Odie and bsn. Even with a perfectly flat surface it is difficult to get good results with a branding iron. I have had one for nearly twenty years and even after all these years find it difficult to get consistently decent results. I have also created a vector graphics file with my signature and had pieces laser engraved, usually those turnings that I donate to Empty Bowls and other charitible fund raising events. The drawback of this approach is that it looks too perfect as if the bowl was mass produced by a machine. Also, the laser engraving does not really look burned, but engraved.

One method that I have used which works well is to use a Dremel engraving tool. After the bowl has had the finish applied, engrave the bottom. The engraving will cut through the film finish exposing bare wood. Use a dark colored furniture touch up pen and rub it over the engraved area. Next wipe the area lightly with a rag slightly moistened with naphtha or mineral spirits. What's left is a nice neat signature that looks almost like it was burned.

I also use a Detail Master woodburner with a writing tip that looks a lot like the one that Odie showed. Writing with a burner takes a lot of practice. Also, some woods are just plain difficult to write on with a burner. A couple hints: keep the pen nearly perpendicular to the wood and write with a very light touch. Keep the heat as low as possible for maxim neatness. Using high heat canake the bowl bottom look like it was pulled from a fire.

 

[Gretch Flo]

signing work

I'm sorta with Odie. I think my "signature" should be subtle. I have a sister-in-law who is an artist and owns a gallery in Northern Mich. She sells others works but her oils can run up to $10,000. I enjoy searching for her name. It's like looking "for waldo" .
A bold signature just doesn't seem "right" for me. I use the dremel engraver with GFlo with the top of the F on the horizontal of the G. I use magic marker for labeling kind of wood and where it was obtained. On drak woods I can use gray sharpie or gold. To me a brand just seems "production"-just me, Gretch

 

[Joe Wiener]

Thanks for the insight on the flat branding iron. I haven't seen one used on any of the items brought to the meetings for critque and I've quietly wondered why.

 

[JRutten]

Branding Iron

I just have to reply to this. My father-in-law is both a turner and a flat woodworker. For the last several years his hands have had the shakes so bad it makes it impossible to write his signature on his finished pieces. His grown kids decided a couple of years ago to buy him a branding iron. After much research we settled on this gentleman:

http://www.brandingequipment.com/

We sent him the best signature we could find and he wrote me back and asked if he could try to "straighten it a little". The finished product was of exceptional high quality with his shakes completely gone from it. I have no qualms about calling this gentleman an artist. It was costly, but you will not get better quality if you decide to go this route.

 

[Ron Kaplan]

Mechanized signature methods

I know that a lot of people shy away from these type of methods. But, for a very professional signature you can print a transparent decal on an ink jet printer and then embed the decal in layers of finish, usually on the flat bottom in the center of a bowl foot. You can also have laser engraving done for a fairly nominal fee at trophy shops that have the equipment in house. You need to create the artwork to create these, but both have very good results. I don't generally use these, but I know some people in my club do.

Ron

 

[Jake Gevorgian]

You can also have laser engraving done for a fairly nominal fee at trophy shops that have the equipment in house. You need to create the artwork to create these, but both have very good results. I don't generally use these, but I know some people in my club do.

Ron

Great one Ron!

When I spoke to the laser engraver I know, he told me that his machinery can take up to 12" tall wood pieces to engrave. The laser engraved area has to be flat.

So, here's what I thought to do (of course, not everyone will be able to do it at this time) I can make a small recess at the bottom of the bowl (for instance) and, later on, turn a same size insert. Give the insert to the laser engraver, make the engraving, and glue it back in the recess I made

Sounds like a plan for the next time. Thanks for the reminder.

Cheers

 

[pcproffitt]

Laser engraved CraftID signature medallions

I support everyone's methods of signing their work. It is your work so you sign it any way you want. But, my opinion is that if you are selling any work or you are making personal pieces that you want to be remembered for, then you really want a signature that people can read and understand. Branding irons have a place and I've seen them put to good use. Hand signing can work well also. There are always alternatives.

Because I have a laser engraver, that's what I use to sign much of my work. I also make and sell CraftID signature medallions (available online at CraftID.com) which are laser engraved disks available in various standard sizes 1/2", 3/4", 1", 1.5" and 2" in diameter. Some people prefer something that is 'hand signed'. That's fine as long as you never need or want your signature to help reference sell your work.

I think for those of us selling our work a readable signature or contact information WITH the signature is a better selling tool than the finest brochure. That's because you have it there with every piece you've made whether it is in a gallery or someone's home. Often the best chance to sell another piece is when someone sees one you've already sold. It is hard enough selling work these days. Use all the tools you can find.