• Beware of Counterfeit Woodturning Tools (click here for details)
  • Johnathan Silwones is starting a new AAW chapter, Southern Alleghenies Woodturners, in Johnstown, PA. (click here for details)
  • Congratulations to Paul May for "Checkerboard (ver 3.0)" being selected as Turning of the Week for March 25, 2024 (click here for details)
  • Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.

Roughing out for hollow forms

Joined
Feb 27, 2006
Messages
53
Likes
7
Location
Hatteras Island NC
MIL buys me a couple of EasyWood hollowing tools for xmas.
What a gal!

I've got a few wet cherry logs that could produce some 6" heartwood bowls.

I figure they could be decent size & quality for working on my hollowing technique.

Do I rough them out just like "regular" bowls?
IOW, approximate the final shape, leave them fat & straighten it all out in 6-12 when they dry out?

I'm not all that into complicated. I don't mind waiting. I don't plan to resort to chemicals or microwaves.

Just wondering about the shape I should work toward in the roughing out phase.

thanks in advance
 
Joined
Jul 9, 2011
Messages
94
Likes
0
Location
Calgary
I assume you mean that you want to hollow out the blanks you have into hollow forms, but are wondering if you should leave the walls thick and finish turn when dry

You can do it either way. Many turners have fun with the distortion that occurs when they finish turn a wet HF and let it dry. To others, this is unacceptable. I use the same theory when roughing out HFs as bowls and I've won some and lost some; the same as with bowls.

Want to trade in-laws?
 
Joined
Jun 28, 2010
Messages
361
Likes
2
Location
Hawi, Hawaii
Website
www.kellydunnwoodturner.com
As Greg says you have choices. If I am going to come back and return a vessel I tend to take to 1/2inch wall thickness. If green which i suggest to get your feet wet so to speak. Do the outside and leave the lip thick. Take down the inside to 1/2inch. If the outside starts to dry to much keep it damp. Take down your lip and sand the outside of the vessel. After sanding get the surface slightly damp to raise grain. If you need to put a fan on it do so. I only sand to 320. Sand in both forward and reverse by hand. Apply a finish to the outside. Then take down the inside to final wall thickness. 1/4in or less. Take down your foot in whatever method suits you. When that is finished take whatever was your final grit paper and blend the two sanding lines. the one before the foot and the foot. I try to go in a circle around the work to keep sanding lines concentric. Not doing this can result in a line that will NOT go away. Finish to your satisfaction. Let it move and twist as it dries. Good fun.
 
Back
Top