Natural Edge Bowls and Time of Year

[Ted Mellin]

Am turning some natural edge bowls and wondering when is the best time of year to cut down the trees. Been having some problems getting the bark to stay on the bowl consistently. Does it make a difference when the tree is cut?
Any input would be appreciated. Thanks - Ted

 

[kevinkabby]

try thin ca glue and an accelerator. what i like to do is wipe it on so it is a thin layer only on the cambium layer. Some woods work better than others. Another thing you could do is let it dry a little before you turn it.

 

[egsiegel]

My understanding is that trees cut in the winter have a better chance of holding thier bark. Has something to do with the sap not running I think.

I don't do many natural edge bowls...but (If I remember correctly) winter cut trees give me less problems.

 

[Richard Coers]

Cutting when the tree is dormant is the key. When the tree is growing, the cambium layer, just below the bark, is very soft and spongy. It doesn't have much strength plus it shrinks a lot after turning. All that causes the trouble with keeping bark. Direction of cut will also aid in keeping bark. Always cut from the bark inward, especially when roughing. Now, for my soapbox comment; I don't murder trees to get blanks. My hope is that others do the same. So hopefully, you are just wondering what time of year to work with a tree service for getting trees that are dying from causes other than needing turning blanks. Our forests are under enough stress from pests and disease, they don't need wood turners as more stress. Rant over!

 

[David Wilkins]

John Jordan made a great dvd for this topic.
Yes, it is the sap that runs between the bark and sapwood that lubricates the bark so it slides off. How you handle wood will affect this also. If you take the blank and turn it thin, right away, you may succeed. I wouldn't use ca with accelerant the accelerant I have available discolours the glue. If you cut the tree when the sap is not running it is essentially the layers between the bark and sapwood dryer, and the bark tends to stick. Tool handling, sharpness and presentation all make a difference too.

 

[MichaelMouse]

This is a good time. Dormant and dry. Though any time is fine if you do your turning soon. That way the bacteria that like to dine on the cambium - only living part of the trunk - won't have a chance to do their nasty business. The idea to reinforce the cambium/cork layer with a bit of CA is excellent advice. Especially if you're going to sell them, because folks will pick them up at the edge.

"Murder" trees? Harvest is the proper term. They're a crop, like many others. Winter is the time to harvest the swamps and swales, summer the ridges and ledges.

 

[john lucas]

How you cut that portion also helps keep the bark on. I cut my natural edge bowl from the bark down. At least far enough to clear the bark. This is on the outside where the normal cut would be from foot to lip. To keep tearout to a minimum since I'm turning against the grain I use a tool with a much sharper grind. Usually my big 1/2" Thompson spindle gouge.
Even then you will get some woods that just won't keep it's bark.

 

[Fred Belknap]

I have used blanks cut at various times of the year and don't find much difference in how the bark stays on. One thing I have noticed, if the tree has been laying on the ground very long the part on the ground will come off. Sometimes if a piece of bark comes off and you can find it, just glue it back on. I almost always turn my NE bowls twice. I'm really not a fan of warped bows.

 

[hockenbery]

I like to use fresh cut wood for natural edge bowls.
Woods with a nice sap ring like walnut, cherry, locust, Florida rosewood, etc look great without bark.

Some woods are more prone to losing bark than others.
I've cut walnut where the bark peels off a half log in one sheet.

Like many others have said CA glue at the bark edge before the last outside cut.
CA clue at the bark edge before the last inside cut.
In most woods the bark shrinks more than the wood. The CA stiffens the bark and keeps it from shrinking and holds it in place usually.
Also harden it a it for sanding.

I begin between centers and establish the outside shape.. Mount in a chuck, or on a glue block. Similar to john's method I take one or two wrong way cuts from rim to base (CA first). This wrongway cut cleans up the small tearout I get as the gouge cuts into air at the rim when it is between centers. Shear scrap the outside surface. Hollow the inside. Revers turn to finish the foot. Dry for 2-3 days then sand.

A natural edge bowl without bark is more functional. Bark tends to chip or flake with use.

I would suggest you Try a bunch of shallow bowls. Get a 6" diameter log and cut blanks 8" long.
You are starting with a blank 8 L, 6 W, 3 H.
This gives a bowl 7.5 L, 4.5W, 2-2.5 H. These go really really quickly. This is shape that looks great without bark but by the time you've done six you will be keeping all the bark and you will probably be turning them in less than 45 minutes. When you've done 50 you'll be turning turning them in 15 to 20 minutes.

In Florida trees grow all year round. This year our trees might be dormant jan 3 to feb 6.

Have fun,
Al

Have fun,
Al

 

[Bill Boehme]

During the spring when the leaves are about half their full size seems to be the time when the wood is the wettest and literally runs out of the wood when it is cut. Around here that would be about early to mid-April. During that time of the year I have been able to slip the bark from a log using nothing but my hands after beginning a split using a screwdriver to slide down the cambium layer. I imagine that it would be tough to keep the bark from flying off when the wood is soft and wet like that. I would guess that from mid-summer through the early winter would be better for harvesting wood for natural edge turnings. It won't be very long here before the trees start bud swelling which indicates that the sap is beginning to flow.

 

[Dick Sowa]

Others have already given the best advice. I too have harvested and turned blanks during all times of the year. The ONLY times when the bark stayed on without any special efforts (ex: CA glue) was when the tree was harvested during it's dormant period.