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Face shields

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I am wondering what others use for face shields. I have an older 3M product which supplies fresh air and I looked at the Trend Pro face shield - same idea. Neither of these look like they provide any real protection from flying objects. I have a piece of red oak burl with some inclusions in it and I am afraid something might come off when turning. I would like a face shield that provide some real protection - probably a thicker polycarbonite product.
Any thoughts?:
 
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Ansi z87+

Bill,

For impact resistance, you're looking for a face shield that sports a rating of ANSI Z87+. (The "+" is an important part of the rating.) I don't recall whether or not the Trend products meet that standard, but I believe that the newer versions of 3M's Airstream do meet the ANSI Z87+ standard.
 
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I have several Uvex (Honeywell) Bionic faceshields - which meet the "high impact" standard.

They provide good chin and forehead protection. The clear portion does not distort optically.

I have modified one to provide fresh air across face - my eyes don't like sawdust when finish turning or sanding (I do use a dust collector).

I use a bathroom fan in an adjacent area which pushes air into a 1 1/2" flex hose which is run overhead to lathe area then comes up my back. I don't have a full surround shroud, just fabric to seal top of head to top of faceshield. Very effective and price is right.
 
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I have used an Airmate 3 for 15 years and been hit hard with all sizes of wood and bark and been protected. The helmit, faceshield and air filter gives me everything I need.
 

Bill Boehme

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David Walser mentioned the ANSI Z87.1 standard which governs the various levels of impact resistance. Since the standard is periodically revised, there will also be a year shown following the ANSI Z87 number and applicable suffixes such as the plus sign. Up until recently, the latest revision year shown was 2003, but the 2010 revision is now the latest. Some of the changes to the most recent version have to do with harmonizing the various standards around the world, but mainly it now focuses on specific hazards so that industry is better able to relate specific hazards against the ratings. Previous versions were somewhat abstract in interpreting how various tests related to real-world situations. The EU standards have been somewhat better than our standards in that regard for a number of years. Here is a link to a brief FAQ sheet about changes in the Z87.1 -2010: MSA FAQ Sheet

I have a 3M Airstream PAPR that I have used for around 6 years as well as several different simple face shields. I have just recently started to do a bit of research on the subject and I am becoming increasingly aware of what levels of protection these various pieces of safety gear are able to provide. The bottom line based on my gut feeling is that woodturners may be placing too much reliance on face shields to provide impact protection as a substitute for insuring that what they are doing is safe.

Primarily, face shields provide eye and face protection against various things like small projectiles, splashes, and dust. A faceshield or helmet is not capable of protecting a woodturner from anything that is large and heavy. The reason is fairly simple -- they are not energy absorbing devices -- unlike safety features in an automobile, there is no crumple zone to dissipate the energy in the structure nor things like air bags to distribute the energy over a large area. Instead, most of the kinetic energy from an impact can be transferred to the wearer's head if the impact is straight-on. At best, a glancing blow may result in a less serious injury.

This doesn't mean that face shields are not worthwhile. Protecting our face and eyes from smaller objects, chips, bark pieces, and dust are extremely important. It just means that we need something else as our primary protection for things where face shields can't help. The "something else" is, of course, safe turning practices that avoid dangerous situations.
 
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Faceguard

If you can find a sellstrom faceguard with chin cover and wrap around shield I presume to be polycarbonate, grab it. Most remarkable. I have subjected it to all manner of abuse at the lathe for years and never had to replace the guard, just clean daily with eyeglass spray. Deflected some heavy duty flying pieces.Brad
 
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I've gotten several requests for a pic of my faceshield with cheap air supply.

Not much to it, but it does a good job of keeping dust away from my nose and eyes.

Air comes from a bathroom vent blower located in adjacent room - via new (not refurbed) sump pump hose. Creates enough positive pressure to keep dust from floating up into faceshield.

No mods to faceshield, everything is velcro straps.

Yellow prescrip bottle provides quick disconnect.

Yellow cloth flips back over top of head.

Wife says I look a little weird when I'm wearing it ... but what does she know?
 

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Bill Boehme

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I am glad to hear that you went for a new sump pump hose. :) It looks like you have been assimilated into the Borg. You might entertain the thought that your wife is right, but then I tell my wife that woodturning is not a fashion show.
 
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I am wondering what others use for face shields. I have an older 3M product which supplies fresh air and I looked at the Trend Pro face shield - same idea. Neither of these look like they provide any real protection from flying objects. I have a piece of red oak burl with some inclusions in it and I am afraid something might come off when turning. I would like a face shield that provide some real protection - probably a thicker polycarbonite product.
Any thoughts?:

Bill,
Wearing a face shield when turning is always a must. That said, lets prevent the burl from exploding. When turning the outside the choices are limited but the greater risk is when turning the inside whether it is a hollow form or a bowl. Before you start the hollowing process, wrap the piece in plastic streach film with several layers. Then apply several wraps of fiber glass reinforced strapping tape. Be sure to wrap both the film and tape in a clockwise direction to keep the 'wind' from unwrapping it while turning. Both the streach film and reinforced tape can be obtained in the Packaging/Shipping Department of an Office Supply store.
Do not use hose clamps or similiar items. They may loose the tension as the wood is removed and fly off.
 

odie

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Bill Boehme

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.... Before you start the hollowing process, wrap the piece in plastic streach film with several layers. Then apply several wraps of fiber glass reinforced strapping tape. Be sure to wrap both the film and tape in a clockwise direction to keep the 'wind' from unwrapping it while turning. Both the streach film and reinforced tape can be obtained in the Packaging/Shipping Department of an Office Supply store.
Do not use hose clamps or similiar items. They may loose the tension as the wood is removed and fly off.

John, I like that idea a lot. I have used other things like duct tape and Gorilla tape, but they have very strong adhesive that is sometimes very hard to remove. Yesterday, I had to rig up something hold an irregular shaped burl to the spindle while turning the "bottom" side. My solution was to use nylon reinforced strapping tape along with my version of a "compliant" chuck, although I prefer to call mine a "conformal" chuck. It worked like a charm. The only drawback is that it is a one-shot deal and the Quikwood Epoxy Putty that I used is pretty expensive.

I have an immediate application for your idea -- a post oak burl hollow form that is partially naturally hollow in the interior along with a few voids in the walls. I have been working intermittently on this project for around five years. Now and then I will pick it up and play with it when I feel sufficiently inspired. The problem is that because of he natural hollow there are some structurally weak areas along with other areas that are as hard as nails.

Your idea of stretch plastic and tape reinforcement would be ideal for keeping all the pieces contained in the event of a failure while working on the interior. Turning a HF where there is "negative space"* that leads to interrupted turning is something to be wary of when doing the exterior, but for the interior it is a truly serious challenge especially considering that about half of the interior turning would be air while the remainder is divided between just plain rock hard oak and steel-hard pith. There are also a few Inlace patches on the inside where the natural wall thickness has me concerned about the structural integrity.



*negative space -- a silly artsy-fartsy term for "hole" -- all space is positive, whether occupied by wood, air, vacuum, interior of cranium, or whatnot.
 
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Thanks for the link, Hughie........

I really am impressed at how small and convenient that one looks. At $399, it may be a little expensive, but I'm looking forward to hearing from anyone who might own and use one of these......

Another product that will protect your lungs is the Resp-O-Rator for $50.

It's lightweight, effective and VERY inexpensive.


Link to company site:
http://www.resp-o-rator.com/

Link to youtube product video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fR9BAB8k9dI
 
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