I guess this is a newbie question. My new diamond parting tool did not come with sharpening instructions (most tools don't). Should I grind each edge on a wheel or use a file to keep the edges flat?
Tony
Tony
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sharpening Diamond Parting Tool
- Thread starter Tony Dentino
- Start date
Grind the edges, there's nothing to be gained by keeping them flat. Once they're ground concave, you can use a hone to sharpen.
Graeme
Graeme
Tony,
Here's a suggestion for a parting tool recommended by David Ellsworth. It produces a smoother cut than the "straight" grind because of the extra metal under the edge. It also works better at a lower angle to the axis of the lathe. I use mine with the tool just about horizontal so that the tool rest takes all the force exertered by the cut. You must be careful to keep your grind symetrical and the cutting edge set at the thickest part of the diamond.
Symetrical means keeping the line of the cutting adge at 90* to the tool's shaft. I've seen several people having trouble with a diamond parter because they ground it such that it was like a skew with a very slight leading point which will tend to dig in and bind in the cut.
Here's a suggestion for a parting tool recommended by David Ellsworth. It produces a smoother cut than the "straight" grind because of the extra metal under the edge. It also works better at a lower angle to the axis of the lathe. I use mine with the tool just about horizontal so that the tool rest takes all the force exertered by the cut. You must be careful to keep your grind symetrical and the cutting edge set at the thickest part of the diamond.
Symetrical means keeping the line of the cutting adge at 90* to the tool's shaft. I've seen several people having trouble with a diamond parter because they ground it such that it was like a skew with a very slight leading point which will tend to dig in and bind in the cut.
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john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
Mark I tried that grind and didn't see any advantage to me other than it was harder to keep the cutting edge at the widest part of the tool. I have mine sharpened on both sides almost as steep as you have the top part. I use it by rubbing the bevel and lifting the handle until it cuts. It cuts very clean this way and I can use it to roll bead or cut the dovetail on a tenon for my chuck. Ground this way it's a very versital tool and it's easy to sharpen. I just look at whichever side seems to be getting off the widest part of the tool and then grind the side that will pull it back in.
If you want a really clean cut at the start of the cut use the tool 90 degrees to the wood. Then when the tool is 1/16 " deep or so lower the handle until the bevel is rubbing while continueing the cut. I get very clean cuts this way.
I also use the sides as a cutting tool for some things. I'll use a ball on an ornament for an example. lets say i've cut most of the ball and I want to reduce the tenon on the bottom. I'll use the parting tool to cut down to the tenon. Then I'll rub the side of the tool against the ball and tilt is slightly so the uppper edge starts to cut and pull it back out refining the shape of the ball a little. I know this goes against all the rules. it's cutting up hill with the grain in some cases but it's very controlable and does work.
When I'm turning my hand mirror handles I will part to the tenon and rough shape the details all with the parting tool. I use it like a skew and then a beading tool wasting away wood to get closer to the final shape. This speeds up the rest of the roughing. I always use one tool until it won't do what I need and then switch to the next tool.
If you want a really clean cut at the start of the cut use the tool 90 degrees to the wood. Then when the tool is 1/16 " deep or so lower the handle until the bevel is rubbing while continueing the cut. I get very clean cuts this way.
I also use the sides as a cutting tool for some things. I'll use a ball on an ornament for an example. lets say i've cut most of the ball and I want to reduce the tenon on the bottom. I'll use the parting tool to cut down to the tenon. Then I'll rub the side of the tool against the ball and tilt is slightly so the uppper edge starts to cut and pull it back out refining the shape of the ball a little. I know this goes against all the rules. it's cutting up hill with the grain in some cases but it's very controlable and does work.
When I'm turning my hand mirror handles I will part to the tenon and rough shape the details all with the parting tool. I use it like a skew and then a beading tool wasting away wood to get closer to the final shape. This speeds up the rest of the roughing. I always use one tool until it won't do what I need and then switch to the next tool.