What do be uses for buffing stations?

[ebrannon]

I use buffing regularly. I use wheels that I attach to my lathe. I want to build a stand alone buffing station.

before I begin, I would throw this out ... What do you do and what does yours look like? Source for parts, pulleys, shafts, motors, etc.

Ed

 

[dbonertz]

I pulled a fan motor out of a furnace (1750 I believe). It had the mounting bracket on it which allowed me to bolt it to a work bench. The shaft size was perfect for the beall thread so I screwed it on. Switched the wiring on the motor so it would run backward keeping the beall adapter from unthreading itself. The power line is plugged into a switched outlet and is ready whenever I need it. It is not a fancy setup but works fine for me.

Good luck,

Dale

 

[Dave Peebles]

Hi Ed,

I have a dedicated buffing station. I bought a mandrel from Woodcraft... I think, and used a 1 hp motor I had laying around in the shop. It will hold two wheels. I still use the lathe for the final wax wheel buff.

It is just mounted on a piece of Baltic birch Plywood with L brackets to connect it to the wall. I also used link belt to connect the pullies/sheaves between the motor and the mandrel.

I will try to attach a link.

http://www.bowlturner.com/beall buffing system.jpg

It has been a great addition to my finishing process.

Dave

 

[odie]

Good morning!

When I began using buffing wheels, I used a 1/3hp motor. Buffing can be done with 1/3hp, but it's not enough power to do any kind of aggressive buffing. Bogging down of the motor will be a continual problem. 1/2hp, or 3/4hp would be better. Ideally, I'd say that the best range of hp would be about 3/4hp to 1hp......and, no faster than 1825rpm for the larger buffing wheels. I believe there are some motors that turn around 1200rpm, or so......I suspect something in that range would work pretty well, but haven't personally tried it.

As do most turners, I built my own buffing station. Mine is "stand alone", and I used a 1 1/2hp motor that was already on hand from when I converted my lathe to variable speed. This is "overkill" for hp, but the motor was already on hand, and free.....so, to speak! The pedestal is made with two pieces of steel plate welded to a longer piece of 4" angle iron for the vertical support beam......with wooden 2x4 support legs. If one wanted to purchase a stand, there are some very sturdy grinder stands that would work pretty well for this. Mine is the "Steel City" brand, and is much sturdier than the el-cheapo ones you see.

I highly recommend a "stand alone" buffing station. Being able to take your bowl and stand anywhere around a 180o radius is an advantage that will be quickly realized.

Below is a photo of my buffing station, and my grinder stand.

Deciding to have a dedicated buffing station is a decision you'll soon find out is a great boon to your turning efforts.......

good luck

ooc

 

[MichaelMouse]

Used to use an old long-shaft 1/2 HP 1725 motor. Then I got a chance to use some different equipment. Pneumatic and mop sander, buffer and even occasionally grinder.

Looks like the JET is gone, but clones remain. http://woodworker.com/drum-and-brush-sanding-machine-mssu-120-029.asp?search=buffer&searchmode=2

 

[john lucas]

I use the Don Pencil buffing extension on my lathe. I don't have room in my shop for a separate buffing motor. Since my lathe is variable speed I can also change the speed to get the proper setting for whichever wheel I'm using. (4", 8", or goblet buffs) I just get all my turning done and then install the 8" extension and buff everything. The long extension allows me to easily buff inside the bigger bowls and on my hand mirrors the handle isn't much of a problem.
http://www.donpencil.com/WNTADAPTORShtm.htm

 

[Steven Antonucci]

Buy an old junker lathe off of Craigslist. You don't need the banjo or tailstock, just a working headstock. Probably get something for $25 or so...

Steve

 

[KellyDunn]

Ed, I have 3/4 horse motor at 1725 rpm.It says Marathon Electric.Its self inclosed so no open spaces for garbage to get in the motor. I got a couple used 1 inch pillow blocks and a 1 inch shaft. Spaced the blocks on a 4X12. Shaft is 30 in. long.(get a straight one) I tapped each end for 1/2 in. bolt. As I face the thing the left hand shat extends 9 inchs to the center of the buff. This one I change between buffs all the time. The right hand one is the big workhorse buff and I have 11 inches to the center of the buff. I dont change it untill I put on a new buff. The whole thing sits on my tablesaw outfeed table. To really use the saw it takes a bit to move the whole thing but i have no other place to put it or I would make it stand alone. Since it extends out from the table I have two bolts underneath the outfeed into the 4x12. on the front I put a couple pieces of rubber and just use a couple clamps. The rubber chunks helped it run smoother.You can change the speed with pullys. I have two 4 inch ones so am at 1725 rpm. Nice thing about the pully belt is with some compound you have a stropping strap for those scary sharp tools. I could probably get away with only six inches space between the pullys and cut down the end of the 4X12. As it is they are 10 inches apart. The extra space would really come in handy at times. You dont need 3/4 horse. See what others have but 1/2 even might be more than you need. I got the 3/4 cause it was inclosed and I could wire it for 220 volt. I may have gotten the motor from Harbor freight. But that was 20 years ago so am really not sure. But a used motor should do you just fine also.

 

[Dick Sowa]

While probably not what you are looking for, I combined my grinder station and buffing station at the same place...sorta. I picked up an old junk dresser from a yard sale. It was pretty small, but heavy and stable. I installed wheels on the bottom. I then mounted my grinder and sharpening jig left of center, and mounted an old refrigerator motor (1750 rpm, I think) that I use for my buffing station at an angle off the right corner, wired to a switched receptacle. Having the buffing station come off the corner of the dresser top, gives me a lot of room to maneuver bowls around the buffing wheel.

 

[Brad Harding]

Buffing with my old Lathe

When I upgraded from my first lathe, I shortened the bed and made it into a buffer.

 

[Vaughn]

I use the Don Pencil buffing extension on my lathe. I don't have room in my shop for a separate buffing motor. Since my lathe is variable speed I can also change the speed to get the proper setting for whichever wheel I'm using. (4", 8", or goblet buffs) I just get all my turning done and then install the 8" extension and buff everything. The long extension allows me to easily buff inside the bigger bowls and on my hand mirrors the handle isn't much of a problem.
http://www.donpencil.com/WNTADAPTORShtm.htm

I've got the same, with the 12" adaptor as well. (Still use the 8" more often.)

I've also got a little Wilton mini lathe with variable speed, and it's become my dedicated "small stuff" buffer. I have a MT mandrel that accepts a single buffing wheel, and a variety of wheels to go on it.

 

[Harry Robinette]

My system is like Odie's. I used a Harbor Freight grinder stand and motor from a furnace blower.The Beale system bowl inside and out 8" 4" 2",goblet 2"3"4" and want to get the 1". I really fell if your going to do the buffing use the best you can afford when it comes to buffing thats Beale.

 

[odie]

My system is like Odie's. I used a Harbor Freight grinder stand and motor from a furnace blower.The Beale system bowl inside and out 8" 4" 2",goblet 2"3"4" and want to get the 1". I really fell if your going to do the buffing use the best you can afford when it comes to buffing thats Beale.

Ditto on the Beale system, Harry...... Although I haven't used any other buffing system, I've found the Beale to be a most excellent method to use.

Just wondering...... Do you know the rpm of the blower motor you're using? I think some of the blower motors are a little slower than the 1825rpm I'm using, and I suspect it would do a decent job for buffing. I would be interested to hear what rpms/wheel sizes others are using, and how well the results they've found them to be....... I'm guessing the rpm may not be much of a deterrent to good results, if one just gets accustomed to how to use what they have, but some hands-on input on this would give us a little better idea of what works, and what doesn't.

How about the 3350rpm motors? Has anyone done buffing at that speed? ....or, is that too fast? If so, what happens at that speed?

ooc

 

[MichaelMouse]

Common motors are nominally rated at 1725 and 3450 rpm rather than the theoretical 3600/1800, but now and again people have rigged washing machine motors with a theoretical 1200 rpm as well. What's the difference? Newton's second, same as at the lathe. The faster you turn the farther you can throw with the same buff. Compromise is enough passes in a given time to get the buffing done effectively and few enough to allow a good hold.

I prefer to abrade the finish rather than the wood, but some prefer the other. Since finishes can flow or melt with generated heat, they require less pressure. I have two Beall, three Menards buffs. No difference that I can tell in results. They're basically carriers of the abrasive.

 

[Mike Gibson]

Buffing

l found buffing at the lathe gave me the back ache so l now use the drill press and find it much easier and l can sit on a stool.

 

[Vaughn]

...I really fell if your going to do the buffing use the best you can afford when it comes to buffing thats Beale.

...I have two Beall, three Menards buffs. No difference that I can tell in results. They're basically carriers of the abrasive.

No argument that Beall sells great products, but I've gotta agree with Micheal. I don't see any difference in the results one can get with the buffing wheels Beall sells and those sold by others (like Don Pencil). On my mini lathe, I'm using 6" wheels (of varying softness) that I bought at Home Depot or Lowe's, and have no complaints about the final results I get. I use a harder wheel for coarser abrasives, and incrementally software ones for the finer compounds. IMO it's the compounds you use and the way you use them that play the biggest part in getting good results.