Anyone else use one of these yet? I thought of it while reading the Face plate thread and didn't want to high jack that thread. Anyway I just bought one from Oneway an it is great. I have put natural edge blanks on without removing any bark and it holds solid. Just thought I'd pass it along.
-
Beware of Counterfeit Woodturning Tools (click here for details) -
Johnathan Silwones is starting a new AAW chapter, Southern Alleghenies Woodturners, in Johnstown, PA. (click here for details) -
Congratulations to Keven Jesequel for "Big Leaf Maple" being selected as Turning of the Week for April 15, 2024 (click here for details) -
Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.
BIG BITE Chuck Spur
- Thread starter Mark Warden
- Start date
- Joined
- May 16, 2005
- Messages
- 3,540
- Likes
- 15
Answers one big safety issue. It'd be tough to dismount something from that. How do you work with it? Kerf and drive across the grain, I imagine, because with might split.
I still like my pin chuck, because it holds safe from dismount, and can be used without the tail for setting up to reverse mount. Also for remount on dry pieces. Costs 3X as much, though.
I still like my pin chuck, because it holds safe from dismount, and can be used without the tail for setting up to reverse mount. Also for remount on dry pieces. Costs 3X as much, though.
- Joined
- May 14, 2004
- Messages
- 445
- Likes
- 1
- Location
- Middlesex County, Virginia
- Website
- www.velvitoil.com
Wow, I am going to get one of those. It is rare that I need to buy any more tools, etc. but that looks like a must have.
Actually between the big pin and so much surface area it takes very little pressure from the tail stock. I don't think splitting or grain orientation is an issue.
Here's another Mark that likes the Big Bite. And you do not need a kerf, Mike M. I do sometimes drill a quick pilot hole for the center, but no problem with splitting, and I do usually align it with the grain so it sinks in a bit and grabs better. I guess across the grain a kerf might help in certain species, but I don't think it's necessary.
It's just a big spur drive and would probably only come in handy with bigger pieces.
I use mine in a SN 2.
Mark
It's just a big spur drive and would probably only come in handy with bigger pieces.
I use mine in a SN 2.
Mark
- Joined
- May 16, 2005
- Messages
- 3,540
- Likes
- 15
Ah, so you don't really take advantage of the depth available, only the breadth. No increase in safety.
Strength and stay favor a kerf across the grain, of course. Tougher to smash end grain.
I love these as well, but can't get used to the idea that it will fall out with just the slightest release from the chuck. I dropped it out twice before I got it engrained in my mind. Now I don't have all the corners it came with from the two hits on the floor. I had to touch up the bevel after those, but it works great!
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
The Bestwoodtools drive doesn't fall out of the chuck. 
They have both a 4 jaw and 2 jaw version of a drive center that fits directly in the chuck jaws.
http://www.bestwoodtools.com/
They have both a 4 jaw and 2 jaw version of a drive center that fits directly in the chuck jaws.http://www.bestwoodtools.com/
I looked at those John and they do look good if you only use the same chuck with the same jaws all the time. And when he says it falls out I think he is talking about when he releases it from the chuck you have to hold on to it like anything you release from a chuck. I also like to use the tower jaws and the nova bowl jaws and all my other spurs for the chuck are too short.
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
I agree it will fit more jaws. It looks like if you ground the flat tang on the back side down to fit the opening in the Vicmarc jaws it might not fall out as easily when you loosen the jaws. You need one hand on the chuck key and one on the spur drive to catch it.
This is the same beef I have with Keyless chucks in drill press's. It takes 2 hands to release the bit and then the bit falls through to the floor. They work fine on lathes where the chuck is horizontal.
I also change from 2 up to 5 jaws depending on the wood size and shape. I'm looking at Oneway drive for that reason. I've been using a custom 4 point drive center for roughing bowls but that means I have to remove the chuck. I haven't take the time to make one that will fit in the chuck jaws.
Since the bottom V of the Vicmarc jaws are all the same it might be possible to make a spur drive that fits in this opening instead of the larger jaw. Then you would be able to use a drive that is clamped in the jaws and won't fall out when loosened, in all of the jaws. I'll have to go out to the shop and check out that idea. Maybe when it's not 11 degrees outside and 35 or so in the shop.
This is the same beef I have with Keyless chucks in drill press's. It takes 2 hands to release the bit and then the bit falls through to the floor. They work fine on lathes where the chuck is horizontal.
I also change from 2 up to 5 jaws depending on the wood size and shape. I'm looking at Oneway drive for that reason. I've been using a custom 4 point drive center for roughing bowls but that means I have to remove the chuck. I haven't take the time to make one that will fit in the chuck jaws.
Since the bottom V of the Vicmarc jaws are all the same it might be possible to make a spur drive that fits in this opening instead of the larger jaw. Then you would be able to use a drive that is clamped in the jaws and won't fall out when loosened, in all of the jaws. I'll have to go out to the shop and check out that idea. Maybe when it's not 11 degrees outside and 35 or so in the shop.
I did mean when I loosen the chuck jaws. The thing that made me forget, was that I have used the traditional Oneway drive spur for a long time. It has a flange that is captured behind the jaw. So you have to open the jaws a bit to release the drive spur. The Big Bite releases with the slightest twist of the key.
I have one of Bill Rubenstien's drives, 2 or 4 drive blades with or without center point.
http://stubbylatheusa.com/Convertible_Drive_Center.100.pdf
And I do like it.
http://stubbylatheusa.com/Convertible_Drive_Center.100.pdf
And I do like it.
drive
Hello,
Sounds like a solution to a problem I've been having with the standard spur drives. Often when turning a green blank the spur drive looses traction and slips. Tightening the tail stock doesn't seem to help much or for very long. Just curious, have any of you found other solutions to this?
Herb
Hello,
Sounds like a solution to a problem I've been having with the standard spur drives. Often when turning a green blank the spur drive looses traction and slips. Tightening the tail stock doesn't seem to help much or for very long. Just curious, have any of you found other solutions to this?
Herb
Steb centres cost nearly that too. Worth it too, in my opinion.Wow, $100 for a drive spur. Is that a record?
Robert Manning
member
- Joined
- Jun 16, 2009
- Messages
- 202
- Likes
- 1
- Location
- Southern California
- Website
- www.californiawoodartist.com
Beating the drive center into fresh wood with a mallet can make a more positive connection.
A properly skewed cut with a sharp tool can gracefully remove material with less force against the drive center.
Last edited:
I am happy to see this thread. I tend to do frequent work involving good sized logs, and my big lathe doesn't have a usable taper in the headstock spindle. Purchased the BestWood drive and it didn't seat in the Vicmarc in a way that I thought would be good for big out of balance and off center logs. Sent it back. I think I will have to get the OP's product. That or the Vermec. Both look pretty nice, thanks!
Hutch
P.S. In fact, I could have used one today! Go Go Gadget Credit Card!
Hutch
P.S. In fact, I could have used one today! Go Go Gadget Credit Card!
Matt. The Vermec drive is perfect for big logs.
It is what I use for turning logs up to 30' long and up to 2 tons in weight.
I cheat a little sometimes and bore a 2" hole about an 1"deep to seat it in.
It is what I use for turning logs up to 30' long and up to 2 tons in weight.
I cheat a little sometimes and bore a 2" hole about an 1"deep to seat it in.
Herb, Re slipping spur drive
You may have tried this, but in case...
I use a 1" two spur morse taper drive from Craft Supply. Drill a hole with a spade bit to solid wood. Turn a big wooden mallet and use it to beat the drive into the hole along the grain. It won't gall the end of the morse taper. It will hold itself in the blank while you insert it into the spindle. This approach and drive almost never slips, even with big out out round wet blanks. On occasion I have used a 1" bench chisel to deepen the seating for the drive.
With these methods I doubt you will have a problem. I really don't mind removing the drive center to remount the chuck as this all works fine. What's an exta 30 seconds including a sip of coffee. Anyway I like seating my tenon with the chuck off, especially with a big heavy bowl, to make sure it will run true.
You may have tried this, but in case...
I use a 1" two spur morse taper drive from Craft Supply. Drill a hole with a spade bit to solid wood. Turn a big wooden mallet and use it to beat the drive into the hole along the grain. It won't gall the end of the morse taper. It will hold itself in the blank while you insert it into the spindle. This approach and drive almost never slips, even with big out out round wet blanks. On occasion I have used a 1" bench chisel to deepen the seating for the drive.
With these methods I doubt you will have a problem. I really don't mind removing the drive center to remount the chuck as this all works fine. What's an exta 30 seconds including a sip of coffee. Anyway I like seating my tenon with the chuck off, especially with a big heavy bowl, to make sure it will run true.
Last edited:
I have a four prong drive from PSI that fits in the chuck, center pin on a spring. I ground back two of the prongs to give more versatility when adjusting center for grain alignment. Decent price as well.
See
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/LCENTJ4.html
Bob
See
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/LCENTJ4.html
Bob
I have the 2 Flute Quick Change Drive Center from Best Woods, Bill Grumbine turned me onto it a couple years ago, and it works great.
I drive the spur into the blank with a dead blow hammer just enough to mark the wood with the four spur blades and the center point, remove it, then use an old 1" bench chisel to deepen the "X" left by the spur blades. I just tap the chisel in each of the four compass directions so I get two "V" shaped groove for the spur center to bite into. Then I re-drive the spur center into those grooves with the dead blow and put the blank on the lathe. I'll also often use a 1" Forstner bit to drill 1/2" or so below the surface of the blank (especially if it's a natural or bark edge). This provides a shoulder to help keep the spur center in place, and gets me into solid wood if I'm dealing with bark or soft sapwood. Since I've started doing this, slippage is a rare thing for me.
That said, I just ordered one of the Big Bite spurs. Looks like a great idea for larger blanks, and it allows more repositioning options.
just gotta comment on the oneway big bite...
I've been using this when roughing out large, very wet logs for the last 8 months or so. It's solved any problem I had driving wet, weirdly shaped pieces.
I use a stronghold chuck, so roughing involves knocking in the bigbite with a mallet, locking it into the chuck, snugging up the tailstock and turning a tenon to fit the same chuck. Pull out the tailstock, reverse the piece, true it up, get it round and you're ready to core the blank.
It's a very quick and efficient workflow that I didn't have using any other drive center.
Best of all, I haven't had a log even think about moving off center since I got the big bite. Never had it slip out of the chuck...didn't think it could if it's snugged up well.
I've been using this when roughing out large, very wet logs for the last 8 months or so. It's solved any problem I had driving wet, weirdly shaped pieces.
I use a stronghold chuck, so roughing involves knocking in the bigbite with a mallet, locking it into the chuck, snugging up the tailstock and turning a tenon to fit the same chuck. Pull out the tailstock, reverse the piece, true it up, get it round and you're ready to core the blank.
It's a very quick and efficient workflow that I didn't have using any other drive center.
Best of all, I haven't had a log even think about moving off center since I got the big bite. Never had it slip out of the chuck...didn't think it could if it's snugged up well.
Not to sound like an advertisement or anything; I have no affiliation with Oneway or any company for that matter. I've been using my big bite spur since early June last year, and LOVE it. I use it all the time now. I've used it on about 150 to 200 bowls, up to 19" in diameter. I was worried at first about splitting when used along the grain, but have still yet to have a problem in this regard. Perhaps with dry wood it would be an issue, and certainly if I were using it to drive IN end grain, not compressing across end grain, or side grain for that matter.
I turn mostly natural edge bowls, and one of the things that makes the big bite invaluable to me is that I can reposition the log if I don't like the orientation once I have it round. I can line up the rim a bit better to make it more even, which is quite often an issue with natural edge bowls, one edge being much lower than another. With a faceplate, you don't have this option.
As far as the other drives on the market, I have the other oneway chuck-mount spur drive, which is just fine, but for really large pieces, the big bite is the first go-to tool! The Stubby drive looks great, but part of the reason I like the Oneway is that it saves me a huge amount of time that would otherwise be lost taking off the threaded spur drive, then threading on the chuck, etc. I just pop out the spur and turn around the blank into the ready waiting chuck jaws. I already have the tailstock close by so that if I need it to steady a large blank while centering in the chuck, its there.
The Vermec drive looks great! If it were available for a Oneway, I'd probably want one, but for the work I do, the big bite is sufficient.
I turn mostly natural edge bowls, and one of the things that makes the big bite invaluable to me is that I can reposition the log if I don't like the orientation once I have it round. I can line up the rim a bit better to make it more even, which is quite often an issue with natural edge bowls, one edge being much lower than another. With a faceplate, you don't have this option.
As far as the other drives on the market, I have the other oneway chuck-mount spur drive, which is just fine, but for really large pieces, the big bite is the first go-to tool! The Stubby drive looks great, but part of the reason I like the Oneway is that it saves me a huge amount of time that would otherwise be lost taking off the threaded spur drive, then threading on the chuck, etc. I just pop out the spur and turn around the blank into the ready waiting chuck jaws. I already have the tailstock close by so that if I need it to steady a large blank while centering in the chuck, its there.
The Vermec drive looks great! If it were available for a Oneway, I'd probably want one, but for the work I do, the big bite is sufficient.