Hello. I'm a relative newcomer to turning and am really interested in dyeing/coloring some of the vessels I turn. Any tips as to technique, materials preferred, videos, etc that you all would like to share would be greatly appreciated.
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Dyeing/coloring wood
- Thread starter Steve Sloan
- Start date
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
I use water based analine dyes. I bought black, red, blue, yellow and green. With these I can mix any color I want. Yea I know you can make green from yellow and blue but I find it easier to start with green and work toward the other colors.
When I want black I often use shoe dye or India ink. for dying small objects I use Calligraphy inks.
I also have transparent paints for my air brush that I use to enhance some dyed work.
When I want black I often use shoe dye or India ink. for dying small objects I use Calligraphy inks.
I also have transparent paints for my air brush that I use to enhance some dyed work.
Steve Worcester
Admin Emeritus
You can dye with anything from blueberries and coffee to inks and dyes. Differences are usually going to be color intensity and how light fast it is.
I used metalized dyes (Behlens I think) for a long time, then went to auto aire acrylic airbrush paints because the palette was so vast (and they are pretty cheap).
If you are in the area, you are welcome to stop by and explore with some of the materials I have
http://www.coastairbrush.com/categories.asp?cat=61
I used metalized dyes (Behlens I think) for a long time, then went to auto aire acrylic airbrush paints because the palette was so vast (and they are pretty cheap).
If you are in the area, you are welcome to stop by and explore with some of the materials I have
http://www.coastairbrush.com/categories.asp?cat=61
Dye job
I seldom want to mask the wood so I prefer to dye rather than paint. The exception is black. These are normally small pieces and like John I use ink or black leather dye. Whenever I use leather dye I try to use alcohol base as it dries faster and doesn't raise the grain as much. The attached piece uses ink for the finial and green food dye for the maple form. This is the sort of dye you get from the craft stores to color cakes. One suggestion I would make is that you sand the surface as smooth as possible before applying the first coat of dye. This should include wet sanding if possible. You are going to have to sand the first couple of coats of dye because it will raise the grain so the idea is not to waste the die. The small plate is done with several colors of non transparent acrylic paint. In this case applied with natural sponge not air brushed.
What ever you choose enjoy experimenting!!
I seldom want to mask the wood so I prefer to dye rather than paint. The exception is black. These are normally small pieces and like John I use ink or black leather dye. Whenever I use leather dye I try to use alcohol base as it dries faster and doesn't raise the grain as much. The attached piece uses ink for the finial and green food dye for the maple form. This is the sort of dye you get from the craft stores to color cakes. One suggestion I would make is that you sand the surface as smooth as possible before applying the first coat of dye. This should include wet sanding if possible. You are going to have to sand the first couple of coats of dye because it will raise the grain so the idea is not to waste the die. The small plate is done with several colors of non transparent acrylic paint. In this case applied with natural sponge not air brushed.
What ever you choose enjoy experimenting!!
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If I want to achieve a bright yellow or a true blue, I will bleach the wood first, neutralize it, wash the wood, then apply dye. I've been able to get a deep, bright yellow on ash and maple.
I'm not sure if neutralizing and washing is totally necessary, but just in case the bleach reacts to the dye, I want to avoid problems.
Betty Scarpino, editor, American Woodturner
I'm not sure if neutralizing and washing is totally necessary, but just in case the bleach reacts to the dye, I want to avoid problems.
Betty Scarpino, editor, American Woodturner
Steve Worcester
Admin Emeritus
Airbrush paints are generally very transparent and can be cut with reducer and the pigment is super small. Allows the same effects as dying
Thank you all for the input. It sounds like I'm in for some fun experimentation until I find the right medium for the desired effect. I'll post some photos as I go.
BTW Steve, with the airbrush paints are you actually applying with the airbrush or are you putting them on some other way?
BTW Steve, with the airbrush paints are you actually applying with the airbrush or are you putting them on some other way?
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Betty what kind of bleach are you using and where do you get it? I saw a two part bleach at Highland Woodworking but got sticker shock at about $65 for what I recall was a gallon of mix. It is not in their catalog. I have not seen the two part stuff anywhere else.
Steve Worcester
Admin Emeritus
I do it both ways. I use an airbrush for large areas, but if I want to o multi-colors, like overlays on a burl, I use a clean T-shirt, wipe it on and if there is too much paint, quickly wipe it with the reducer.
Here is a link to the process that I have found that works.
http://lumberjocks.com/trifern/blog/9400
When you get to his blog, after reading go to the top of the page and click on "Projects", he has posted quite a few photo's of his work.
Hope this help you out.
http://lumberjocks.com/trifern/blog/9400
When you get to his blog, after reading go to the top of the page and click on "Projects", he has posted quite a few photo's of his work.
Hope this help you out.
Here are several photos of my first attempt at dyeing bowls. The one in my hand is done using a product called Radiant Pearls that I borrowed from the wife's craft room. The others are done with simple food colors. All are finished with a shellac/walnut oil/carnuba wax finish.
