Micromesh questions

[unidave]

Hi,

I've heard you talking about micromesh and I even found their website. Though I was somewhat overwhelmed at the broad product line.
Can someone help me to understand the details? I hear that sanding to MM 12000 is the same as a 4000 grit paper. What is the relationship between a regular grit and the MM numbers?
Is MM readily available at woodworking stores? (I don't recall seeing it at Rockler or Woodcraft) or do I need to order it directly.
Thanks in advance.
Dave

p.s. At shows I've seen pen turners sanding with little pre-cut strips of sandpaper. Is this a store-bought item or home-grown? If it's a do-it-yourself thing, doesn't it dull the scissors or is there another trick?

 

[Wilford Bickel]

Hi Dave,

I'm not sure on the micro mesh, just bought some of the new 3M product to try myself. As to the strips of sandpaper, you can cut these yourself or buy precut rolls. It can be bought in 1 inch width up to several inches. I buy rolls about 3 inches wide that hang on a dowel mounted in a wood shelf bracket systme. I then tear off a length and fold in half. I use both sides before discarding but find the double thickness helps with heat coming through to the fingers and the grit on the hand side helps keep it from slipping.

Wilford

 

[Geigerist]

Sanding rolls

Check out the Bargain Box of end of roll rolls at Klingspor. 20 pound box of everything from1/2'' to 4'' for $29.00
www.woodworkingshop.com.
I also use a pad of bronze wool to hold the strips of sandpaper against the wood.

 

[Brian Hahn]

Sandpaper grit chart

The best comparison of sandpaper grits is a chart by Jeff Jewitt on his Homestead Finishing site:
Sandpaper Equivalency Chart
The page also includes a link to a PDF version which is convenient to print out or save.

I bought my Micro-mesh kit at Woodcraft a couple of years ago. It contains an assortment of grits and a foam sanding block, all packaged in a cardboard container. I haven't used it much yet, so I can't help you there.

My standard methods for cutting sandpaper are to lay the sheet face down, put a straight edge (steel rule) on it, and either tear the piece or cut the backing with a utility knife. Or I'll fold the paper, grit outside, and use a palette knife (thin long metal blade) to cut it along the fold - just like using a letter opener except the cut is cleaner. (Using a knife blade doesn't work nearly as well for me.)

 

[DWFII]

Take a look at Abralon. I just got some six inch pads in all sizes and cut 2 inch pads from them to fit my hook and loop sander. It was originally designed for auto body work and goes to 4000 grit.

I used to use MM but since getting the Abralon, haven't even considered using MicroMesh again. The best part of the Abralon (aside from the foam backing and the velcro) is that an air gun will clear most if not all of the sanding debris from the grit surface...if you don't wet sand with it...oh, yeah...it's cheaper, too.


DW
In the High Desert of Central Oregon

 

[Ken Grunke]

I didn't know where to find MM so I went to the NAPA auto parts store and found Norton Blue Ice sandpaper in 800, 1200, and 1500 grits--I think it goes higher yet. I'm quite happy with this, it's a durable paper that's good for wet or dry.

 

[Steve Worcester]

Micro mesh is a bit different that any conventional sandpaper. They make 3 different kinds (that you normally see. The 4th is a diamond abrasive). It is a bit different in that you MUST sand slower as it is a softer bond to the fabric. Too fast will create too much friction and melt the micro mesh

The one to concentrate on for woodturning is the regular. It is available in sheets and disks both.

Here is a grit conversion chart I made after consulting with Micro Surfaces.
http://www.turningwood.com/images/sandpaper/grit%20comparison%20chart.pdf

 

[Chuck Wood]

Hi Dave,
Just a bit of history on the MM. It has been around for years in the aviation industry used to remove and polish acrylic windshields and side windows. The Micro Mesh cloth grits are similar to sandpaper grits but the big difference is how it’s used. MM should be ALWAYS used wet using LIGHT circular motions.
As for use on a spinning lathe, I would recommend using Norton products. The will do a better job for less money.

 

[bowlman]

I have used MM for over 15 years. And I am still using the original material that I was sent. I always use MM with mineral spirits as a lubricant. Keep it wet ... and be sure to thoroughly rinse the old "mud" off before moving to a finer grit. When I was still doing ink pens I finished several off at 36000 (yep, that's right ... 36 thousand!) ... and they were as slippery as could be. Now I stop at 12000 and that's only for gallery pieces and collectors/commissioned works.