I have a market for large bowls( 15" in dia.+ ) and am finishing them with Mahoney's Walnut Oil. Wiping on two coats is time consuming. Has anyone tried dipping the bowls and letting them dry on a rack? Any other ideas? Thanks.
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walnut oil finish
- Thread starter Paul M. Kaplowitz
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May not work for you if you work the outside bottom last, But I heat in the first coat with the bowl on the chuck. Gets everything but the very bottom one good seal. Wipe off shiny/sticky as it develops. One coat's done and well. Takes an extra five minutes.
Seems like I read somewhere that Mahoney himself uses an immersion method of some sort.
I don't know the guy, so no clue whether he'd be willing to share his thoughts or not, but nothing to lose by trying. Check his website maybe, and leave a message.
If you're buying his oil, and especially in the quantities you'd need to immerse 15" bowls, one might hope he would be helpful?
I don't know the guy, so no clue whether he'd be willing to share his thoughts or not, but nothing to lose by trying. Check his website maybe, and leave a message.
If you're buying his oil, and especially in the quantities you'd need to immerse 15" bowls, one might hope he would be helpful?
There shouldn't be anything time consuming about it. A 15" bowl should take about 2 minutes per coat. What works really well for me, and I use Mahoney's on almost every bowl and a lot of hollow forms, is to pour about a 1/4 cup into the bowl, use a paper towel folded into 1/4's or 1/6's and start at the inside bottom of the bowl going around in a circular motion follow up to the rim, hold the bowl in one hand and start going around the outside. I carve the bottom of my bowls so when I get to that point, I pour some oil on the center and rub it around. Wipe it down in about ten minutes and you'll only need one coat.
I don't want to hijack this thread, but walnut oil is available for about $22 a gallon from various food oil dealers. Less than that if you buy a bunch of it. If I were to buy more than a gallon it would likely go rancid before I used it up, but for a group purchase to be split up it might be even more of a saving.
I used regular food grade walnut oil for years on batches of cutting boards I used to make out of offcuts from flatwork, and now I use it on bowls and kitchen goods and it works fine.
My own feeling is that the Mahoney oil is the same stuff in a different bottle with a 100% markup, but I don't know that for sure. I can't tell any difference in performance here at my house. I don't know if the Mahoney oil is food grade or cosmetic grade either.
Anyone know?
I used regular food grade walnut oil for years on batches of cutting boards I used to make out of offcuts from flatwork, and now I use it on bowls and kitchen goods and it works fine.
My own feeling is that the Mahoney oil is the same stuff in a different bottle with a 100% markup, but I don't know that for sure. I can't tell any difference in performance here at my house. I don't know if the Mahoney oil is food grade or cosmetic grade either.
Anyone know?
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Mahoney's formula is secret, but you could ask if he would tell you. 
You can be sure that it is not a "food" since it is labeled as a finish and not as something fit for eating. My guess is that it contains some VOC's such as mineral spirits and maybe even some other oils such as linseed oil or tung oil.
I use the regular walnut salad oil which is 100% pure walnut oil and keep it refrigerated after opening to keep it fresh so that I can use it to make walnut raspberry vinaigrette salad dressing occasionally.
You can be sure that it is not a "food" since it is labeled as a finish and not as something fit for eating. My guess is that it contains some VOC's such as mineral spirits and maybe even some other oils such as linseed oil or tung oil.
I use the regular walnut salad oil which is 100% pure walnut oil and keep it refrigerated after opening to keep it fresh so that I can use it to make walnut raspberry vinaigrette salad dressing occasionally.
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
Mahoney's walnut oil is different. He explained it when I saw his demo. I don't remember the particular's but it's been altered or refined to get rid of the part that causes the nut alergies. I'm sure he would be glad to answer your questions. He seems like a really helpful guy and does a great demo. I purchased some but have not had a chance to use it yet. Been too busy turning non food container items.
That's interesting John, I may try contacting him to ask about that. I've used both Mahoney's and food grade oil, and can't say as I noticed any differences in the way it behaves as a finish, but being able to offer allergy-free options might be something I should look into.
I'm pretty much at the point now where I just don't like to use anything as a finish unless I can lick my fingers afterward. I just got more sensitive over the years to the smell of petrochemicals and the like.
Mahoney's product seems pure enough, I detect no chemical odor at all, nor any deodorizing agents, and I've become pretty sensitive to that stuff. I don't like to even be in the same room as paint thinner and such as that, and CA glue makes me wanna hurl.
I had the thought that Mike's "secret" is published so...
I doubt most of the Walnut oil sold as salad dressing base, etc has been heat treated. It also may have "stuff" in it too boot
I doubt most of the Walnut oil sold as salad dressing base, etc has been heat treated. It also may have "stuff" in it too boot
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This is the one I hear most often. Over in Europe they extract the oil with solvents rather than just pressing, which leaves any allergens (proteins) behind. The AAAAI says the amount of protein in the stuff here is vanishingly small, and should be safe. Especially if they don't chew the finish!
I've also heard it suggested that the oil is heated to 160F and held to denature the possible proteins. This would have to be under an inert atmosphere.
Only thing I know for sure is the ones that mention additives to retard spoiling on the label don't cure worth beans.
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Since I worked in the food industry while going to college many years ago, I can answer the reason for heating to 160° F -- it is to pasteurize the product (at least that's the case if it is intended to be sold for human consumption). The general process for pasteurization is to heat the product to 160° F and hold it at that temperature in a closed environment while it is being stirred for at least 30 minutes. The length of time is long enough to kill harmful pathogens while minimally degrading the flavor. In the dairy industry, pasteurization is normally performed immediately after homogenization, a process that break up long molecular chains and prevents separation of the cream and solids from the whey.
The fancy European style walnut oil that I have been getting at the grocery store has been pasteurized I presume mainly to preserve freshness. I presume that once it has dried when I apply it to a bowl that it is as allergy free as any other oil finish. As far as I can tell, the drying time is comparable to tung and linseed oils. I also use pure tung oil ( a very heavy oil), but it is terribly expensive.
I've been using expeller pressed, pasteurized walnut oil for years.
As I said it's $22 a gallon online.
That would certainly fit the description of "pure, heat treated and without toxic dryers"
Don't know if Mahoney's product has additional treatment or not.
I think I'll ask him.
Inquiring minds want to know and all that.
If I learn anything I'll post it here.
As I said it's $22 a gallon online.
That would certainly fit the description of "pure, heat treated and without toxic dryers"
Don't know if Mahoney's product has additional treatment or not.
I think I'll ask him.
Inquiring minds want to know and all that.
If I learn anything I'll post it here.
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My experience with Mahoney's Walnut Oil.
I used Mike's oil on 2 cored Pecan salad bowl sets of 4 bowls each. The salad (largest) bowl was 14" in diameter and the smallest about 4" in diameter. The roughed out Pecan bowl sets were dried for about a year or more prior to final turning. I applied the oil to each bowl with a paper towel soaked in his oil, covering all surfaces. I applied this outside in the sun and watched the oil soak in fairly rapidly. I applied a 2nd coat to again cover the bowls and then let dry for about an hour in the sunlight. The instructions on his bottle state that the finish hardens through exposure to ultra violet rays or sunlight. Took the bowls in overnight and reapplied more oil the next day, repeating the process until there were 3 coats. After the final drying, applied Mike's satin wax over the oil coats to give it a soft sheen. I was very impressed with the natural beauty of the wood after the applications and the surface doe's not feel oily. The first set sold the day I took them to the gallery. I keep the oil refigerated between applications to preserve it. I personally do not think there are any driers in the oil. I am a believer in his product and will use it on food safe items in the future.
I used Mike's oil on 2 cored Pecan salad bowl sets of 4 bowls each. The salad (largest) bowl was 14" in diameter and the smallest about 4" in diameter. The roughed out Pecan bowl sets were dried for about a year or more prior to final turning. I applied the oil to each bowl with a paper towel soaked in his oil, covering all surfaces. I applied this outside in the sun and watched the oil soak in fairly rapidly. I applied a 2nd coat to again cover the bowls and then let dry for about an hour in the sunlight. The instructions on his bottle state that the finish hardens through exposure to ultra violet rays or sunlight. Took the bowls in overnight and reapplied more oil the next day, repeating the process until there were 3 coats. After the final drying, applied Mike's satin wax over the oil coats to give it a soft sheen. I was very impressed with the natural beauty of the wood after the applications and the surface doe's not feel oily. The first set sold the day I took them to the gallery. I keep the oil refigerated between applications to preserve it. I personally do not think there are any driers in the oil. I am a believer in his product and will use it on food safe items in the future.
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I talked to Mike a lot about his oil. His oil is pressed from the husks and leaves of the walnut tree, not the nut meats like the oil you get in the store. It is different. The pasteurization process that the stuff in the store goes through will also break down the proteins/and or molecules that can be part of the allergy reaction thing, and it takes a really long time to cure and harden, if it even does so at all. I am not sure why he heats his, but he doesn't heat it enough to do the break down thing. There are no petro chemicals or hardeners in it at all.
I apply mine while the bowl is on the lathe, at slow speed. I use 2 of the grey synthetic steel wool pads, pour on a bunch of the oil, and slop it on the bowl, maybe as much as 1/4 cup on a large bowl. Some of the softer woods will soak it all right up, so in that case, before I move it to the drying rack, I will slop on some more by hand. Most of the time they just sit on a wire rack. Other times I have had a light bulb under them to heat them a bit. This does make them cure out a bit faster, but Mike says they need UV light as part of the curing process. I do add a dab of the wax to the pads on just about each time I wipe down a bowl. Hmmm, might have to try an UV light in the shop some time. Most of the time, it takes at least a week for the oil to cure out.
I do wipe off any excess before they go into a box.
robo hippy
I apply mine while the bowl is on the lathe, at slow speed. I use 2 of the grey synthetic steel wool pads, pour on a bunch of the oil, and slop it on the bowl, maybe as much as 1/4 cup on a large bowl. Some of the softer woods will soak it all right up, so in that case, before I move it to the drying rack, I will slop on some more by hand. Most of the time they just sit on a wire rack. Other times I have had a light bulb under them to heat them a bit. This does make them cure out a bit faster, but Mike says they need UV light as part of the curing process. I do add a dab of the wax to the pads on just about each time I wipe down a bowl. Hmmm, might have to try an UV light in the shop some time. Most of the time, it takes at least a week for the oil to cure out.
I do wipe off any excess before they go into a box.
robo hippy
That's interesting Robo.
I wrote a note to Mahoney, so we'll see what he says, but I have to say that the picture of extracting oil from the husks and leaves is a little hard for me to embrace.
I've never made oil out of anything so I'm not the expert, but I did search for manufacturing methods for walnut oil and found no references anywhere to it being made from anything but the kernels.
Maybe someone is doing it but it strikes me that you'd need a tractor trailer load of hulls to make a cup of oil, those suckers are dry dry dry. I've blasted with crushed walnut hulls in the past, and that leaves no oily residue at all. The leaves contain all kinds of stuff that would have to be removed also I would think, not least the green color.
I did discover that walnut oil was a popular oil used by artists in the Renaissance period, being valued for it's drying properties among other things.
I've never had any problem with walnut oil refusing to cure. I agree it takes a while, a week sounds about right , maybe a little less in the summertime.
Edit addition.
I found this list of uses for walnut hulls.
* Cleansing and polishing: Walnut shells are mostly used to clean soft metals, fiberglass, plastics, wood and stone. This environmentally friendly and recyclable soft grit abrasive is well suited for air blasting, de-burring, de-scaling, and polishing operations because of its elasticity and resilience. Uses include cleaning automobile and jet engines, electronic circuit boards, and paint and graffiti removal. For example: In the early days of jet transportation, crushed walnut shells were used to scour the compressor airfoils clean, but when engines with air cooled vanes and blades in the turbine started being manufactured this practice was stopped because the crushed shells tended to plug up the cooling passages to the turbine, resulting in turbine failures due to overheating.
* Oil well drilling: The shell is used widely in oil well drilling for lost circulation material in making and maintaining seals in fracture zones and unconsolidated formations.
* Flour made from walnut shells is widely used in the plastics industry.
* Paint thickener: Walnut shells are added to paint to give it a thicker consistency for "plaster effect" ranges.
* Explosives: Used as a filler in dynamite.
* Cosmetic cleaner: Occasionally used in soap and exfoliating cleansers
Walnut husks are often used to create a rich yellow-brown to dark brown dye that is used for dyeing fabric and for other purposes. When picking walnuts, the husks should be handled wearing rubber gloves, to avoid dyeing one's fingers, as the dye does not require a mordant.
That last part about the dye coming from the hulls would suggest to me that anything made from the concentrated extractives from hulls would be pretty dark colored. It might indeed be pretty, but it would be dark.
Stay tuned for more breaking news as our intrepid reporter continues his relentless investigations.
I wrote a note to Mahoney, so we'll see what he says, but I have to say that the picture of extracting oil from the husks and leaves is a little hard for me to embrace.
I've never made oil out of anything so I'm not the expert, but I did search for manufacturing methods for walnut oil and found no references anywhere to it being made from anything but the kernels.
Maybe someone is doing it but it strikes me that you'd need a tractor trailer load of hulls to make a cup of oil, those suckers are dry dry dry. I've blasted with crushed walnut hulls in the past, and that leaves no oily residue at all. The leaves contain all kinds of stuff that would have to be removed also I would think, not least the green color.
I did discover that walnut oil was a popular oil used by artists in the Renaissance period, being valued for it's drying properties among other things.
I've never had any problem with walnut oil refusing to cure. I agree it takes a while, a week sounds about right , maybe a little less in the summertime.
Edit addition.
I found this list of uses for walnut hulls.
* Cleansing and polishing: Walnut shells are mostly used to clean soft metals, fiberglass, plastics, wood and stone. This environmentally friendly and recyclable soft grit abrasive is well suited for air blasting, de-burring, de-scaling, and polishing operations because of its elasticity and resilience. Uses include cleaning automobile and jet engines, electronic circuit boards, and paint and graffiti removal. For example: In the early days of jet transportation, crushed walnut shells were used to scour the compressor airfoils clean, but when engines with air cooled vanes and blades in the turbine started being manufactured this practice was stopped because the crushed shells tended to plug up the cooling passages to the turbine, resulting in turbine failures due to overheating.
* Oil well drilling: The shell is used widely in oil well drilling for lost circulation material in making and maintaining seals in fracture zones and unconsolidated formations.
* Flour made from walnut shells is widely used in the plastics industry.
* Paint thickener: Walnut shells are added to paint to give it a thicker consistency for "plaster effect" ranges.
* Explosives: Used as a filler in dynamite.
* Cosmetic cleaner: Occasionally used in soap and exfoliating cleansers
Walnut husks are often used to create a rich yellow-brown to dark brown dye that is used for dyeing fabric and for other purposes. When picking walnuts, the husks should be handled wearing rubber gloves, to avoid dyeing one's fingers, as the dye does not require a mordant.
That last part about the dye coming from the hulls would suggest to me that anything made from the concentrated extractives from hulls would be pretty dark colored. It might indeed be pretty, but it would be dark.
Stay tuned for more breaking news as our intrepid reporter continues his relentless investigations.
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My experience has been like Bill P. My sister has nut allergies pretty bad. She wanted some salad bowls from cherry. I used Mahoney's walnut oil 2 coats dried in sunlight as he had told me she will not have a problem. She had no problems with her allergies. I have tried a couple of other walnut oils from health food store and grocery store with results that were not good. I just keep using Mike's.
Wonderful Finish - Priceless!
Dave - you seem to be confusing husks and hulls. Hulls are dry, husks and leaves are not.
Mr. Mahoney has a well earned reputation in the turning world as a guy who has made a real business out of turning. The fact that he has his name on a product that sells in pints, that you suspect can be bought in gallons as a generic, is an interesting curiousity, I guess.
Let's see: lathe $2000, bandsaw $800, tools $500 min, dust collector $450, Mahoney's oil $11/pint, bulk walnut oil $22/gallon, bottled water $1/pint, tap water $.002/gallon, wonderful finish priceless!!!
Jerry
Dave - you seem to be confusing husks and hulls. Hulls are dry, husks and leaves are not.
Mr. Mahoney has a well earned reputation in the turning world as a guy who has made a real business out of turning. The fact that he has his name on a product that sells in pints, that you suspect can be bought in gallons as a generic, is an interesting curiousity, I guess.
Let's see: lathe $2000, bandsaw $800, tools $500 min, dust collector $450, Mahoney's oil $11/pint, bulk walnut oil $22/gallon, bottled water $1/pint, tap water $.002/gallon, wonderful finish priceless!!!
Jerry
Jerry, husks and hulls, perhaps you're right. Hull is just the word I used growing up. I'm talking about the shells I guess.
I agree it's no big deal, I'm just curious about it is all.
Mahoney does have well deserved reputation, and he has done a hell of a lot more to further the craft of woodturning than I ever have, or ever will likely as not, so it's not about that.
Fact is, if there is any reason for me to consider his product better in any way at all than what I'm using now then I'll switch even if he charges twice the current price. The per item cost would still be tiny and not worth fretting over.
Especially if it assures a greater protection for anyone with allergies, which is one of the things I asked in my query to him.
If it's different I'd like to know. If it's the same I'd like to know that too.
No problem.
My plan now is to drop it until I hear from Mike.
I agree it's no big deal, I'm just curious about it is all.
Mahoney does have well deserved reputation, and he has done a hell of a lot more to further the craft of woodturning than I ever have, or ever will likely as not, so it's not about that.
Fact is, if there is any reason for me to consider his product better in any way at all than what I'm using now then I'll switch even if he charges twice the current price. The per item cost would still be tiny and not worth fretting over.
Especially if it assures a greater protection for anyone with allergies, which is one of the things I asked in my query to him.
If it's different I'd like to know. If it's the same I'd like to know that too.
No problem.
My plan now is to drop it until I hear from Mike.
I've been using Mike's oil and wax for years. It's easy to apply and gives me the finish I like. A soft satin sheen and feel that leaves the peice looking and feeling like wood not plastic.
I use it more than any other finish.
Nigel
I use it more than any other finish.
Nigel
The Desired Finish Makes Any Day A Great Day
Dave: I appreciate your curiousity! The world of finishing is full of mysteries. Many of us have spent hours on a really nice bowl, with wonderful grain. While turning, our imagination and expectations run wild while we picture in our mind what it is going to look like, when complete - only to be disappointed. I have spent countless hours over the years trying to get my results to match my expectations. That is why we generally stay within a narrow range of finishing methods. I have had great success with "Behlens Bowl turner's Finish" which I am certain is a simple alcohol/shellac mixture. Why have I not tried to make my own and not spend $15/pint? Simple - the fear of problems, right when I don't need them!
As an aside, there is an Upstate NY provider of a proprietary finishing oil. The can says, apply at no finer finish than 320 grit. All of the wood samples with the displays show a marvelous finish (like the hood of a car) that is "simply wiped on". Never had good results personally. I went to a demo by the guy who makes the stuff and watched how he got the wonderful finishes - surprise 600 - 800 wet sanding!!!
I guess the message is that the three keys to a great finish are technique, technique, and technique!
Jerry
Dave: I appreciate your curiousity! The world of finishing is full of mysteries. Many of us have spent hours on a really nice bowl, with wonderful grain. While turning, our imagination and expectations run wild while we picture in our mind what it is going to look like, when complete - only to be disappointed. I have spent countless hours over the years trying to get my results to match my expectations. That is why we generally stay within a narrow range of finishing methods. I have had great success with "Behlens Bowl turner's Finish" which I am certain is a simple alcohol/shellac mixture. Why have I not tried to make my own and not spend $15/pint? Simple - the fear of problems, right when I don't need them!
As an aside, there is an Upstate NY provider of a proprietary finishing oil. The can says, apply at no finer finish than 320 grit. All of the wood samples with the displays show a marvelous finish (like the hood of a car) that is "simply wiped on". Never had good results personally. I went to a demo by the guy who makes the stuff and watched how he got the wonderful finishes - surprise 600 - 800 wet sanding!!!
I guess the message is that the three keys to a great finish are technique, technique, and technique!
Jerry
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Has anybody tried wet sanding with Mahoney's oil? Would that work? I'm working on a maple bowl that's really dry, and having a terrible time with the end grain. I was thinking about trying wet sanding, but I had planned to use the oil to finish it, and was reluctant to put anything else on the wood.
Thanks for any input -
Thanks for any input -
You might try splashing some oil on the end grain as a lubricant and then taking a finish cut with a freshly sharpened tool.
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I tried some paste wax and a freshly sharpened gouge. That did help some, but there are still a couple of spots ....
End Grain Issues - Walnut
I typically do several things to manage end grain issues. 1) I take a very very light finishing pass with a negative rake scraper or a scraper which has been very lightly ground. 2) I reverse the direction of rotation during sanding - that is I sand in both directions. 3) I wet the area with a shellac/alcohol finish, let dry very briefly, then sand. A quick drying varnish will also work. A combination of these approaches will generally clean up most issues.
Good Luck!
Jerry
I typically do several things to manage end grain issues. 1) I take a very very light finishing pass with a negative rake scraper or a scraper which has been very lightly ground. 2) I reverse the direction of rotation during sanding - that is I sand in both directions. 3) I wet the area with a shellac/alcohol finish, let dry very briefly, then sand. A quick drying varnish will also work. A combination of these approaches will generally clean up most issues.
Good Luck!
Jerry
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I usually use dewaxed shellac, but wasn't sure how that would get along with the walnut oil.
The shellac will stay on the surface and be immediately sanded off as you clean up the end grain issue. Then you have fresh wood and you can put anything you would like on it.
Jerry
Jerry
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I wasn't sure if it would soak in enough to interfere. That's good to know, thanks!
I use Mahoneys oil for tear out. I rub it on and then take a couple of fine cuts with a conventional gouge. Works really well for me. I watched Mike do this at a demo he did and he also shows it on his DVD.
Oil according to Mike Mahoney...
I said I would post if I got a response to my query to Mike Mahoney. I had asked about the difference between his oil and the food grade walnut oil I have used for years on furniture and now on turnings too.
He did respond as follows;
So there it is.
A little less information than I was hoping for. I had also asked about his "total immersion" process, but there was no mention of that in the reply as you see.
Mike is incorrect about the food grade oil never drying in my experience. It does dry, though it may take quite a while to do so. It may indeed be that his oil drys more rapidly.
I said I would post if I got a response to my query to Mike Mahoney. I had asked about the difference between his oil and the food grade walnut oil I have used for years on furniture and now on turnings too.
He did respond as follows;
So there it is.
A little less information than I was hoping for. I had also asked about his "total immersion" process, but there was no mention of that in the reply as you see.
Mike is incorrect about the food grade oil never drying in my experience. It does dry, though it may take quite a while to do so. It may indeed be that his oil drys more rapidly.
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Strange, isn't it? Stuff I got from the co-op in Yuba City was listed as "cold-pressed" others are labeled "expeller pressed." Both cured well, as do a couple other labels here at the store. Not the ones with preservatives, though.
http://walnutsweb.com/walnuts/Walnut+Oil For preparation information.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Walnut_oil General information.
http://painting.about.com/od/oilpaintingfaq/f/FAQwalnutoil.htm Used in paint.
I'm sure Mike is a good guy, but it looks like he's off base on this.
http://walnutsweb.com/walnuts/Walnut+Oil For preparation information.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Walnut_oil General information.
http://painting.about.com/od/oilpaintingfaq/f/FAQwalnutoil.htm Used in paint.
I'm sure Mike is a good guy, but it looks like he's off base on this.
Yes MM, the stuff I have is "expeller pressed" 100% walnut oil, food grade, and it does dry, no doubt about that.
I'm trying to find out if the stuff I have is pasteurized or not.
Probably is, but I don't know for sure.
They sell "cosmetic " grade too, for the hippies to make massage oils and whatnot out of it, but I don't know what the differences might be.
Yes, I think Mike is incorrect about this, and his analogy to mineral oil is not valid in my experience.
I'm trying to find out if the stuff I have is pasteurized or not.
Probably is, but I don't know for sure.
They sell "cosmetic " grade too, for the hippies to make massage oils and whatnot out of it, but I don't know what the differences might be.
Yes, I think Mike is incorrect about this, and his analogy to mineral oil is not valid in my experience.
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I agree. Mineral oil is a petroleum product that is a mixture of heavier alkanes -- nothing at all like any of the oils used in the kitchen walnut or otherwise. Mineral oil has a strong laxative effect if ingested.
Most people do not realize that most walnuts (and pecans) that are sold retail in stores are from the previous crop. Commercial food producers get essentially all of the current walnut and pecan crops. Fresh walnuts do not taste bitter, but they have a very high fat content and go rancid quickly. Being from the previous crop is why most walnuts found in the grocery store have a slightly bitter taste. It is likely that Mahoney is using old walnuts which would sell for a lot less than fresh current crop walnuts. Since his oil is not a food, that is not a big deal. His theory about somehow "extracting" the bitterness from food grade walnut oil is misinformation. And food grade walnut oil is certainly not anything remotely like mineral oil regardless of the context of the comparison.
You can identify fresh walnuts because the skins will be very light in color and the nut will be very plump and heavy. Old walnuts will have skins that are darker and have more wrinkles in the nut, possibly even hollows in the meat of the nuts if really old. The older nuts will also be somewhat lighter in weight than the fresh ones.
Most people do not realize that most walnuts (and pecans) that are sold retail in stores are from the previous crop. Commercial food producers get essentially all of the current walnut and pecan crops. Fresh walnuts do not taste bitter, but they have a very high fat content and go rancid quickly. Being from the previous crop is why most walnuts found in the grocery store have a slightly bitter taste. It is likely that Mahoney is using old walnuts which would sell for a lot less than fresh current crop walnuts. Since his oil is not a food, that is not a big deal. His theory about somehow "extracting" the bitterness from food grade walnut oil is misinformation. And food grade walnut oil is certainly not anything remotely like mineral oil regardless of the context of the comparison.
You can identify fresh walnuts because the skins will be very light in color and the nut will be very plump and heavy. Old walnuts will have skins that are darker and have more wrinkles in the nut, possibly even hollows in the meat of the nuts if really old. The older nuts will also be somewhat lighter in weight than the fresh ones.