Chainsaw, which one?

[Robert Manning]

I'm on my third chainsaw which is electric and underpowered. I have an old Mac 10-10 which has no spark, but I don't think it is worth investing money into, as it is very heavy. Prior to the electric saw, I had a Sears (Poulan) 16". I was not unhappy with the Sears saw until it became hard to start and then the piston melted after about 50 hours, which is the stated service life on the label. It had a plastic lower end.

There are nine Stihl dealers within a seven mile radius. I went to two Sthil shops today, but it seams that English is their second language. I asked if the crankcase was metal or plastic and the first shop didn't know and the second shop said it was made of chrome. I'm pretty sure the crankcase is not made out of chrome. The cylinder may be chrome plated. They don't know.

I looked at a Stihl 290 which is a midrange saw and a 250 which is rated for occasional use. I like the size, balance, and price of the 250. Does anyone know how long one of these would last?

Home Depot pulled out their Poulans and now they sell Homelite and Echo. Are these better? Echo has a 450 which is rated professional.

I would use the saw occasionally, and sometimes for making short lumber for segmented turning. I have access to a 24" Sycamore and would do some sculpting, too.

I don't care about the brand name, just the value and durability.

 

[jack richington]

pro saws

I always hesitate to answer questions like this, as everyone has an opinion. I live in a big logging area & the pros here use Husqvarna or Jonsered . I have always had good luck with either

 

[Paul M. Kaplowitz]

Chain Saw

I have used ny Sthil 039 for 28 years and never had any problem with it. This is a perfect example of getting what you pay for. Go cheap an you'll spend your time pulling on the starter cord instead of cutting. pmkappy

 

[Joe Greiner]

Chain saws are a big part of my tool porn. I have about a dozen, mostly from garage sales when I couldn't afford better. Some of them were being sold simply because the seller didn't know or care about sharpening.

I've found it convenient to sharpen all or many of them in a marathon session, and just switch saws when needed. Extra chains might be simpler. All of my cutting so far has been within the length of extension cords, so I prefer the electrics. There are 16 (yes, sixteen) patterns of bar-to-body attachments, so parts interchange is catch-as-catch-can. Some of the older ones have bought the farm. About a year ago, I added some new Homelite electrics - very nice machines, and a veteran's discount clinched it. They have an improved bar tension adjustment which I like a lot. They guzzle oil, but they guzzle it well. I've carefully cut 30-inch logs by removing the safety tip; not careful enough, though: some of the cuts were spiral.

If I did any distant cutting, I'd hold my nose and embrace the fuel mixture game. Simpler than a portable generator.

IIRC, Echo was the original developer of chain saws. That might not mean anything, of course. Black & Decker were once the "Black & Decker" of power tools, but not anymore.

For sculpting, you might want to add a Lancelot and a right-angle grinder. With substantial practice, I can get close to a belt-sander finish. They can be sharpened too.

 

[Bill Blasic]

Nine dealers in a seven mile radius? That in itself should tell you something. Usually certified dealers have personnel who know anything you want to know. You should ask for the technician if you were not satisfied with the answer you got. Stihl has a solid network of dealers that can repair your saw if needed. Find a certified repair center for other brands if you can. Stihl has been producing saws for 80 plus years and they made the first motor driven saw that could be used by one person. One of my club members is a Stihl rep for our two state area. I own three and they run problem free and I also have many certified dealers close by in case of problems. As stated you get what you pay for.
Bill

 

[john lucas]

I've had to use Poulan saws and can't recommend them. Everyone I've used has been hard to start. I have Husquvarna for the last 15 years and they run great. From all I hear Stihl is probably a better more reliable saw but in my area it's at least 1/3 if not twice as expensive as my Husky's. I've never used an Echo. When you bring up chainsaws with woodturners you almost always hear Husky and Stihl. Must be something to that.

 

[Roger Chandler]

professional grade

When I buy tools, I have learned to buy what I call contractor grade, because they are built better and will stand up to the rigors of heavy usage. when I first started woodworking 22 years ago, some of my first tools were "homeowner" models like black & decker and others. The gears and motors will not stand up to everyday heavy duty use building decks, etc.

The same is true with chainsaws. I have a Poulan Pro with 16 inch bar, and it says plainly that it is not manufactured for every day heavy use in the manual.

I also have a Husqvarna 359 which is 20" which is just getting into the professional lineup they have. You can get it with shorter bars if you like, and it is light for its size.

The stihl 029 farm boss is a good saw. I know a guy who owns a logging business, and uses stihl every day, all day. He has several employees who go to sites and cut with him. They have had 3 or 4 saws break a crank on the piston back 5-6 years ago. It seemed they had a few problems, but since then have gotten it corrected.

In either case with Husqvarna or Stihl, do not go with their lower end, because they are just not the saw that their middle and upper end saws are. I try to go for the quality, and ability to stand up to heavy use.

 

[waltben]

I started many years ago with a Poulan Pro that was a good saw - but then they became big-box store suppliers and I wouldn't have one now. About ten years ago I picked up a used large Stihl off eBay with a 25" bar to saw logs in half and really liked it. Although the local dealer talked me into a 250 with the easy start feature and 18" bar, I've been sorely tempted to sell it since it weighs too much - I should have got it without the easy start bit. I like an 18" for trimming and clearing, and a 20" for felling and cutting logs, so when my old big Husky died, I picked up a Stihl 260 with a 20" bar. This has become my favorite saw after about five years of flawless use. They don't make quite the same model I have any more, but still make the 260 Pro (has a few more features). Its got the same size engine as the 270 yet weighs a few ounces less, much less than my 250 easy start. I'd recommend the 260 Pro with either an 18" or 20" bar. It'll last for years and seriously cut some wood.

 

[Griesbach]

I've got a Sthil 029 and a 290, same saw...Farm Boss, and they both start well and run well with no problems. Sthil has a good network of dealers so I would be able to find one where ever I may be if I needed it. So far the old 029 is the only one to see a dealer in more than ten years and that's just because I thought it was probably time for a once over by a trained tech.

The next saw I buy if I live long enough to need another will be a Sthil.

 

[idahohay]

I would agree with the Stihl MS260 or MS260 PRO.

 

[Angelo]

Chain Saw

Stihl. Buy Stihl

If you are looking to replace your electric. I have two Stihl electrics and am wanting to sell one of them

Otherwise choose a gas Stihl

A

 

[Dave Moore]

We logged every year here in Colorado from 1980 on through the '90's.
Still do occasionally.
We cut four cords of firewood every year from standing dead timber too.

In the 80's and 90's the "go to" brand was Stihl, and I still have an older 044 Stihl that shows every sign that it will outlast me.
However we began to have some problems with Stihl in the late '90s, especially in the lower (crankcase) end of things. Main bearings spinning out of their crankcase mount for example in three saws in a row. During that period Husqvarna made some large improvements to their designs, especially in their upper end models.

The pro saw market has been a contest between Stihl and Husqvarna primarily for many many years, with Jonsared in the hunt too. They all make good stuff, and they have all had problems here and there with particular models over the years.
I run Huskys now, and have no complaints.

Two of the pro tree-trimmer outfits around here use Echo saws for the smaller work up in tree; limbing and the like, and they make a good solid unit also.

If what you want is a durable trouble-free saw, and especially if you are going to be sculpting (long running times, not always at full power) you have to bite the bullet and pay for at least a "semi-pro" model from either Stihl, Husky, Jonsared or Echo. I would go with whichever brand has the most service presence in your area.
Anything less is unlikely to hold up satisfactorily.
It's just how it is IMO.

 

[Tony Latham]

I think Dave just nailed it:
"Stihl, Husky, Jonsared or Echo"....

I took a look at the decibels each of these put out..... the Echo is much quieter and that's what I bought. Great little saw.

TL

 

[Michaels]

While we in wood turning use them frequently... I'd go straight to the guys who depend on chainsaws for their income:
http://www.arboristsite.com/

It is one of the busiest forums I've got bookmarked and find it a wealth of valuable knowledge.

If you go Husky, the XP lines designate the professional series (I have a 346xp which is considered by many to be one of their finest saws ever).

Now, I'm in the market for a much larger saw to use for felling and and large blank preparation... 28-32" bar. That's going to be a chunk of change though. Those guys on the arborist site will steer you right.

michael

 

[Vaughn]

Robert, I'd say you had a couple fluke encounters at your Stihl dealerships. As was mentioned, if you've got that many dealers in your area, it says a lot about how popular they are out here. I went with Stihl primarily because that's what the local shop said he sold the most of, and had better parts availability for.

My local Stihl shop has been great, as has been my MS390. Luckily, all the folks at my local shop speak English as a first language. I'll bet you can find something similar in your area. (I an empathize about going to retail shops that have no English speakers, though.)

 

[Mr. Don]

Chain saw choice

I cut about 4 cords a year for my house, 3 cords for shop, plus a bunch for turning wood, plus helping out family, friends, and have a tree pruner, mini tiller, 2 saws (18" and 28") and they are all Stihl. My dealer is second to none. I use my tools hard, but take very good care of them. It sure is nice to have equipment that I can swear by, not at. My body is out of warranty, but not so the Stihls!!!!:cool2:

 

[John Jordan]

I use two Stihls, had a Husky I really liked that was stolen. Hardware store saws are throwaways. You might also check Baileys.com. There's a lot of good info there that can help you make a good choice. They are selling a couple of Makita saws that I would like to have.

Sounds like the arborist site would be good. I may have a look at that.

John

 

[Vaughn]

...Sounds like the arborist site would be good. I may have a look at that...

It's a great site with lots of good info. And if you think the Mustard vs. Mayo debates are vigorous on the turning forums, wait'll you see the Stihl vs. Husky discussions there.

 

[alexc]

I have a stihl ms310 with a 24" bar.

Not sure what size you need but this guy does everything I have asked so far.

Started finishing an olive stump today, ill remove the rest tomorrow, love this saw.

 

[Bill Boehme]

There are nine Stihl dealers within a seven mile radius. I went to two Sthil shops today, but it seams that English is their second language. I asked if the crankcase was metal or plastic and the first shop didn't know and the second shop said it was made of chrome. I'm pretty sure the crankcase is not made out of chrome. The cylinder may be chrome plated. They don't know.

While it is obvious that the people who sell them are not the world's greatest in the technical field, I can offer a thought about the reference to chrome that might possibly apply in this case. Having been a aircraft owner with an AI as a partner we were able to perform our own major overhaul and I got to learn a lot about air-cooled aluminum engines. Aircraft engines typically have aluminum cases and may have either nitrided cylinders or chromed cylinders. A chromed cylinder wall is not for looks (since you can't see it) -- a chrome plated cylinder wall, when viewed microscopically has a surface that looks something like a dry lake bed. All of these tiny crevices provide a path for oil to lubricate the cylinder walls and makes them extremely durable. I don't know for sure if this is what they were referring to.

I have had a Stihl saw for about ten years -- I do not remember the model, but it is something like 270, I believe. The thing that I really like about it is that it always starts on the first or second pull. I also like how easy it is to adjust or remove a chain without any tools other than the one that has a permanent nesting place in the case. The only negative is that the oiler seems to be a bit messy. The most important rule for owning a chain saw is to not loan it to anybody.

 

[Joe Greiner]

Why would you not want a messy oiler? Unless it's messy in the wrong places. I hang mine from a "Christmas tree" with cutoff Rolaids bottles to catch the drips onto the bar, where the oil belongs.

 

[MichaelMouse]

I'll add my usual to the mix. Whatever you buy should have a bar at least a couple inches longer than the swing of your lathe so that you won't have to worry about burying the nose and kicking when ripping pieces. Just easier to get it straight at once rather than to work one end then the other.

Then make sure you have the ponies to pull that chain. Underpowered is a quick trip to the repair shop. I have a Stihl, 20" bar with a 16 lathe, and the "safety" chain that came with is hanging up beside the sharpening vise where it belongs. Certainly doesn't belong on the saw of a guy who has to make as much wood per year as I do. Nice chisel chain may be a tad more grabby, but it's easier on old backs.

 

[Robert Manning]

Wow! What a helpful group you are. I signed on to the arborsite so I can do searches. I think I will get a lightweight saw first for general cutting and sculpting, and then consider a larger saw to replace my old Mac. I tend to like lighter weight tools, including routers, for the reason that I don't pull a muscle if I haven't been riding my road bike or original nordic trac as much as I should. I have some gift cards from HD and Echo looks attractive and seems to be rated higher than the lower end Stihls and Huskys. I found out that Makita owns the Dolmar chainsaw company in Germany and I have heard good things about their larger saws. I think more than one chainsaw is the answer, as with routers. Many thanks, WOODTURNERS.

 

[Steve Worcester]

I use two Stihls, had a Husky I really liked that was stolen. Hardware store saws are throwaways. You might also check Baileys.com. There's a lot of good info there that can help you make a good choice. They are selling a couple of Makita saws that I would like to have.

Sounds like the arborist site would be good. I may have a look at that.

John

Interesting, Baileys used to be real big on Husky.

 

[John Jordan]

It's a great site with lots of good info. And if you think the Mustard vs. Mayo debates are vigorous on the turning forums, wait'll you see the Stihl vs. Husky discussions there.

I'll bet. I'm not interested in that conversation. Really hard to go wrong with either as long as one chooses the right size.

John

 

[Vaughn]

Interesting, Baileys used to be real big on Husky.

They still sell a lot of them, I believe. Stihl won't allow their products to be sold via mail order, but Husky will. (And it's a different/better line than the Husky saws sold at the big box stores.) As John said, it's hard to go wrong with either brand as long as you get the appropriate size for the task.

 

[Michaels]

It's a great site with lots of good info. And if you think the Mustard vs. Mayo debates are vigorous on the turning forums, wait'll you see the Stihl vs. Husky discussions there.

Lol Vaughn, ain't that the truth

michael

 

[Aaron G+11]

Interesting, Baileys used to be real big on Husky.

Bailey's used to carry them, but don't any more. The reason that they stopped was that Husky corporate wanted a different distribution path. Pity.

As stated before be wary of any brand that comes from a big box store. Even if it is of a good name. They are designed for the rare use of Harry home owner.

A.

 

[DOCworks]

Even more

The Husqvarna 316 is around even if used this electric chain saw is really a tough machine.

 

[Wayne Spence]

Electric chain saw

Any comments on the Milwaukee 6215 electric chain saw16 inch. Use would be around the shop and some sculpting.

 

[Rick Taylor]

Wayne,
I have had the Milwaukee for several years and it has been very good. I also have a 20" electric Stihl I use for larger work and it is well made and pretty low maintenance. Both saws are expensive compared to consumer grades but well worth the difference.

Rick Taylor

 

[allen mcknight]

Funny, but this is always my favorite discussion: which tool to buy? One, because underneath all the passions and ribbing and rhetoric, you do pick up a lot of important details. Two, because, like most woodworkers, I have a serious tool addiction and I always envy someone in your position: about to get a new tool, with endless good choices available, and the opportunity to purchase something you're going to love because it reliably does what you need it to do!

The following is all IMHO:

Arboristsite.com's chainsaw forums are a great resource. The amount of information is overwhelming. But with a little work you can learn more, and get more help, than anywhere else I know of.

I have a Stihl MS460 because I needed a saw large enough to do milling with an Alaskan-style mill, and needed to be able to run a 32" bar for felling/bucking larger trees. I don't know what level of use I would classify myself at. Some months I use it almost everyday. Sometimes I'll go a couple weeks without using it.

But I would recommend getting a pro-level saw even if you're going to only use it occasionally, because like someone said above, the pro-level saws are just built to a much higher standard. More reliable, better materials, better technology. Tiny example: decompression valves sure are nice to have.

I chose Stihl because they DO have the network of servicing dealers. Don't let one bad employee spoil your impression. I own a Husqvarna also, and use one at work, and they are nice saws. But service places (to get parts if you do your own servicing) are much rarer than Stihl.

I don't mind paying extra, if I feel like the cost is justified by the quality. Stihl is more expensive, but I don't think it's a "brand" thing. Everything from their saws to their bars and chains, are extremely well made. And durable.

Something to consider: Stihl's top electric saw is pro-level, equal to the smaller pro gas saws. It can use the same bar and chain as the gas saws. It is expensive, but more powerful than any chainsaw you can buy at the big box stores.

Enjoy hunting for your new saw. Treat yourself to a well-made saw that's at least 25% more powerful, and that can handle a bar at least 25% longer than you think you'll ever need, and enjoy it!

Let us know what you get?

 

[John Jordan]

FWIW, I got an email from Baileys today, and they have discounts on the Makita saws right now.

John

 

[Robert Manning]

I got kind of lost over on the arborism site. Maybe I shouldn't trim that palm tree/weed off an aluminum ladder with my electric chainsaw. I never really liked the sound it makes, anyway.

Now I'm considering Stihl's 170 for carving those objets d' art and thinking in terms of smoothest powerband and throttle control.

 

[Bob Borzelleri]

Husky 350 and Echo 305. Both perform admirably for their intended purposes..

 

[Ken Ferrell]

I have an Echo CS 400 and I love it, my Stihl finally gave up and since I don't do any logging I couldn't see putting an extra 200.00 in an 18 inc saw, The Echo is quite a bit lighter, starts very easy, has a 5 year warranty, I'm happy with it an feel that unless your doing Serious logging I get the Echo. My Stihl was a heavy monster 048 was 5 years old and the dealer told me they couldn't repair or replace the Carburetor. If I was working in the wood for a living, I'd go with Husquvarna but just cutting small trees under 24 inches and bowl stock, my Echo does great.

 

[Robert Manning]

I ended up buying a new Stihl MS180. It's ultralight and fun to use. I had the dealer upgrade the bar and chain to the .050 x 3/8" so I would have more chain options.

Now I'm considering a Makita 64cc for the larger stuff. These are used by Home Depot in their rental department, for their reliability, even though they don't sell Makita chainsaws.