Robert Manning
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Has anyone experimented with bleaching segmented work adhered with Titebond?
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Bleaching Segmented Work?
- Thread starter Robert Manning
- Start date
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
I can't say that I have but since your only putting it on a little at a time I would not think it would penetrate enough to cause problems. I would certainly test it on some scrap first. Of course that assumes that you are applying it with a brush not dunking it.
Wood bleach also affects different woods in different ways so test that also. I bleached some Osage Orange once and it turned Gray instead as it got lighter. I also bleached some Wenge and it only bleached the lighter brown wood. The dark brown wood stayed the same color so it looked like a Zebra (which was actually pretty nice).
Wood bleach also affects different woods in different ways so test that also. I bleached some Osage Orange once and it turned Gray instead as it got lighter. I also bleached some Wenge and it only bleached the lighter brown wood. The dark brown wood stayed the same color so it looked like a Zebra (which was actually pretty nice).
Robert,
I'm glad you asked as I was about to try a similar thing with laminated cherry. I did a test on a small piece and it did work, however I used Titebond 2 which is somewhat waterproof and my walls were thicker.
I would think 1/16 with Titebond 1 would be pretty risky. You would have a better chance with Titebond 3 but the glue lines would show up more. I would try multiple passes, and soak it for a little less time.
Keep us posted on your results.
I'm glad you asked as I was about to try a similar thing with laminated cherry. I did a test on a small piece and it did work, however I used Titebond 2 which is somewhat waterproof and my walls were thicker.
I would think 1/16 with Titebond 1 would be pretty risky. You would have a better chance with Titebond 3 but the glue lines would show up more. I would try multiple passes, and soak it for a little less time.
Keep us posted on your results.
odie
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What kind of bleach are you guys using?.......regular old bleach used in the washing machine?
Never done it myself, so no help.
I can only guess as to how this is done.....brush it on and leave it? I'd like to hear from someone who has used this technique, how it's done.....and pics would be nice.......
The results of the Wenge sound like an interesting prospect.....got a picture, John?
ooc
Never done it myself, so no help.
I can only guess as to how this is done.....brush it on and leave it? I'd like to hear from someone who has used this technique, how it's done.....and pics would be nice.......
The results of the Wenge sound like an interesting prospect.....got a picture, John?
ooc
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
Odie I don't think I have a photo of that mirror. That was a long time ago when film was the norm.
I use a two part wood bleach called Kleen-Strip. It's getting harder to find. You used to be able to go to the hardware and buy it. I bought the last batch from Lowes and I've seen it in the paint stores.
Regular household bleach isn't strong enough to do much. The two part bleach is applied so it covers the surface. let it sit until it dries and then apply some more if needed. I have bleached cherry and walnut out to almost white. Some woods do strange things. Box Elder for example will bleach very white but it won't touch the brown or reds that are found in these woods.
On smaller pieces I use a Q top to apply the bleach. That way I can control where it goes to some degree and it doesn't penetrate much. The bleach will eat up the metal in a brush and disolves the foam in the foam brushes. If I use a brush I use one that is all plastic.
I use a two part wood bleach called Kleen-Strip. It's getting harder to find. You used to be able to go to the hardware and buy it. I bought the last batch from Lowes and I've seen it in the paint stores.
Regular household bleach isn't strong enough to do much. The two part bleach is applied so it covers the surface. let it sit until it dries and then apply some more if needed. I have bleached cherry and walnut out to almost white. Some woods do strange things. Box Elder for example will bleach very white but it won't touch the brown or reds that are found in these woods.
On smaller pieces I use a Q top to apply the bleach. That way I can control where it goes to some degree and it doesn't penetrate much. The bleach will eat up the metal in a brush and disolves the foam in the foam brushes. If I use a brush I use one that is all plastic.
Steve Worcester
Admin Emeritus
I use foam brushes and wash them out between the A and the B solutions. They are defiantly only good for one application though, but they hold more solution, so $.25 is well worth it to me.
I have used the Kleen Strip before and it works well, but have since gone to the Hood Woodbleach 190. Seems a bit stronger and requires less applications.
The problem with bleaching a 1/16" wall is you are resaturating the wood and will likely end up with warping.
I have used the Kleen Strip before and it works well, but have since gone to the Hood Woodbleach 190. Seems a bit stronger and requires less applications.
The problem with bleaching a 1/16" wall is you are resaturating the wood and will likely end up with warping.
John Jordan
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Steve, you posted a link to the wood bleach you use once. Care to share it again? I'll save it this time.
John
John
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
John I found this source. http://www.hoodfinishing.com/Wood_Toners_Bleaches.html
For what it's worth... Many years ago I used household bleach on a segmented wenge vessel. It probably had a 1/4" wall and as far as I know, it's still together. The effect of bleach on wenge is pretty neat. Sorry, I don't have a photo.
Steve Worcester
Admin Emeritus
Robert Manning
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Many thanks to everyone for their input. Thicker is definitely a safer bet for bleaching and the Hood bleach sounds great.
Has anyone tried their Hydrocote water based clear lacquer? I'm looking for a water base that hardens enough to level and polish to a high gloss, again, for maple. Some finishes don't get hard enough for abrasive polishing.
BTW, my dad has had good luck with Hood's Quick Drying Wood Filler on Oak.
Has anyone tried their Hydrocote water based clear lacquer? I'm looking for a water base that hardens enough to level and polish to a high gloss, again, for maple. Some finishes don't get hard enough for abrasive polishing.
BTW, my dad has had good luck with Hood's Quick Drying Wood Filler on Oak.
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Robert, myself as well as several others in my club have been using Hydrocote for several years with good success. It's easy to apply, dries hard (but so do all water-based lacquers), and seems to last well. Best of all, it does not yellow with age. So, take care which woods you use it on. I only use it on light colored woods such as ash, holly, box elder, etc. Also, it's available from Highland Hardware.
Robert Manning
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Alchemy
Thanks, Ed, light woods are what I had in mind for the water base lacquer.
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Steve, I tested Hood bleach on some segmented walnut today. The instructions say repeat as necessary. Do you repeat both A and B or just the B component?
So far, after a couple hours, the result on the walnut is quite interesting. It has generally lightened the wood and left some red streaking that was barely visible within the brown color.
Thanks, Ed, light woods are what I had in mind for the water base lacquer.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Steve, I tested Hood bleach on some segmented walnut today. The instructions say repeat as necessary. Do you repeat both A and B or just the B component?
So far, after a couple hours, the result on the walnut is quite interesting. It has generally lightened the wood and left some red streaking that was barely visible within the brown color.
Hi,
I'm assuming that the maple is boundaried by other species with a Titebond layer between. I bleach this kind of situation all the time. The Titebond acts as a block between layers so all you have to be careful of is slop over. A small artists' brush is recommended. If you blow it, the bleach only extends 3/32 or so so sanding out can rescue you.
Will Hunt
I'm assuming that the maple is boundaried by other species with a Titebond layer between. I bleach this kind of situation all the time. The Titebond acts as a block between layers so all you have to be careful of is slop over. A small artists' brush is recommended. If you blow it, the bleach only extends 3/32 or so so sanding out can rescue you.
Will Hunt