Close quarter drill question

[Alex Ku]

I am looking for a right angle drill for power sanding.

Here is a list of reasonably cheap drills. Posts about cheap close quarter drill indicate that you can't really make them go slow.
Is it common problem for some of them or all close quarter cheap drills?


Which would you recommend from following drills?

1. Milwaukee knock off Professional-Grade 3/8" Close Quarters Right-Angle Drill
on Amazon $34
http://www.amazon.com/Professional-...ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1248636696&sr=1-1

2. Another Milwaukee knock on Vince site. $79. Is it better quality that Amazon's?
http://www.vinceswoodnwonders.com/3_8_drill_and_pneumatic_sanders.htm

3. Harbor Freight has two models:

$34 model http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95877

Smaller $39 model http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92956

Thanks,
Alex

 

[Mark Wollschlager]

I have been using the $34 HF. It works fine.

The speed control is a bit touchy, but it makes the sandpaper go round and round.

Mark.

 

[GLENN ROBERTS]

Alex, it might not be answering your question directly, but I have owned the Makita right angle drill (new version design) since its release here.(some years) It is a great unit, small size, variable speed (good low speed) and nice top speed. Made in Japan. (the keyless chuck version can be a bit difficult to tighten etc- you can buy a keyed version) But comes at a price.
However much cheaper in USA than what we pay in Australia.
Hope this helps

 

[Richard Baker]

Alex,
Have two of the yellow HF drills, bought on sale for $24 or less. Surely they will be on sale again eventually. After much use the gearbox(?) bearings are pretty loose but it still works. Motor brgs are fine. Finally realized I should be using a straight drill for everything it will reach, since it should last longer and I seem to have several of them. Bought the second HF drill as backup, but except for test run have never used it.

Note, had the power cord on HF drill short out but was able to solder and re-insulate the wire. It had been incorrectly routed inside the case during mfg.

Edit: One comment on the Amazon drill said the speed was difficult to control or adjust. It does not seem particularly difficult on the HF tool. And guess one could drill a small hole through the plastic trigger to insert a "stop rod". Never felt the need to do that.

 

[John King]

Harbor Freight vs Milwauke Knockoff

One key difference in the two close quarters drills is the head angle. Harbor Freight = 90 degrees. Milwauke Knockoff = 55 degrees. In my opinion, the Milwauke Knockoff is much easier to use when power sanding the inside bowls. - John

 

[Gil Jones]

I use an Ingersoll-Rand, model 7807R, 3/8", reversible, 90deg angle drill motor. It turns a max of 1,800 rpm which is infinitely variable (90 psi max air pressure, but for lathe sanding, I use about 45psi).
Works fine for me, though I bought it many years ago for aircraft work, I have not used it in a LONG time until I needed to sand in a tight spot and thought I would need to buy an angle sander. My eyes just happened to see it sitting on one my powertool shelves, and thought I would try it. It works great for my needs. Maybe HF sells a low cost version (??).

 

[Jerry Hall]

The HF have worked for me

and lasted longer than my expensive Sioux. I believe they are far less susceptible to dust in the bearings because the air intake is away from the dust at the bottom of the long handle. The gear box is ok for sanding, but don't use it for any heavy drilling, they have wimpy gears. I busted the gears in a minute trying to bore a 1-1/2 hole in an old rafter.

My first one one spit sparks when new, but it was replaced promptly by HF, shipped free both ways in about a month. They sent me a mailer to return the old one.

I will keep using these and keep a spare on hand.

I use a short drill extension permanently on one drill and that works well to get into bowls and tight spots. I have a twist on-off pad (built up with foam from a 3M Roloc pad) for each grit. The driver is locked into the extension. So the 90 degrees is not really any issue for me.

 

[robo hippy]

I also prefer the angle drills to the right angle drills. Much easier to get inside a bowl. I have 4 of the Sioux/Milwaukee drills. I used to get about 300 to 350 bowls before the bearings went before I slowed the speed down to about half with a 1/4 inch piece of cork under the trigger. Now it is more in the 400 to 450 range. I have tried some fancy bearings to see if they last any longer, and can't really tell. More experimenting. I haven't tried Vinces drill, but should with the idea of demolition in mind. I tried a $30 drill and it didn't last a month before the plastic casing wore out (not the bearings). I knew of others who got them and had trigger problems. I have gone through the casings on my other drills, but they get several bearing changes before than happens. I tried an air Sioux angle drill, and it is fine, except that it keeps the compressor running full time. The electric drills are a lot cheaper to keep running.
robo hippy

 

[Vaughn]

I have the $39 HF unit, and aside from being a bit noisy, it has performed flawlessly for me.

Take that with a grain of salt, though. When I bought mine, I bought two of them and shipped the other to a friend in Tokyo. I don't think his lasted a month before it spit the bearings out and the gearbox disintegrated. Since he was in Tokyo, it would have cost him more to ship it back for return than to junk it and look for a better quality drill.

I do think the angle of the Sioux/Milwaukee drills Robo mentioned would be easier to use. (I have the Grex pneumatic ROS that has a similar angle, and I really like it.)

 

[GLENN ROBERTS]

Alex, keep in mind that if you go down the air powered road, then you could be running a 2-3hp compressor to do the same work as a few hundred watt electric drill. eg: do the sums. ( noise, extra running costs, large air compressor etc) It is something that I am sure people forget when they look at the 'relative' cheapness of air tools.

 

[Jerry Rhoads]

Alex
When I was looking for an angle drill. I went to Harbor Freight, ask if I could plug it in. The noise was terrible. I figgured it would really be bad when up close sanding.
Went to Farm & Fleet and got a Milwaukee 70 degree drill. Real happy with this.
I also use a cordless Makita right angle drill, and a Grex orbital. Happy with these also, but the Milwaukee I use most.

Have been using all for several years without trouble.

Jerry

 

[Jim Killen]

I've used a Milwaukee angle drill exclusively for more than ten years with no signs of any problems. I don't remember what I paid for it, I think about $80, certainly less than $100. How many of the cheap Chinese $30 versions would I have gone through in that time?

Over the years, when it comes to tools, I've learned that it pays to go with the best you can get from the start, and you'll save money in the long run.

 

[Curt Fuller]

The $39 Harbor Freight close quarter drill has been good to me. I bought one a couple years ago while on sale for half price. I brought it home and liked it so I went back and bought another while the sale was still on, thinking it probably wouldn't last too long. I'm still using the first and I've really abused it. I don't know if I'm just lucky and got a good one but I've been more than happy with it.

 

[mike tompkins]

do use HF drills

I used HF and last about 5 min! Yes 5 mins big crack in them. use any thing but them.

 

[Dave Ogren]

I am a user of Vince's angle drill and am very happy with it. I think the way to get a long life from it is to blow all the drill ports out after each bowl.

Dave