What do you use for rust prevention?

[Alex Ku]

I've been using all kind of stuff to oil my machinery:
WD-40, 3-in-1, etc.
My house is close to Pacific Ocean beach and we frequently have heavy fog that contains ocean salt. Any unprotected steel surface rusts within a day or two.
I am tired of oiling my tools every time after I finish working and wiping it off before working.
Is there anything that is not expensive, not "oily" or sticky and is a good rust protector? Some people like T-9 Boeshield but it's pretty expensive.

I've used a silicon rust protector that "form rust protecting film" on steel surface but it did not work too good.

 

[GeorgeH]

I am currently using PB Blaster Air Tool Lubricant http://www.blastergroup.com.au/air-tool-conditioner.html that I picked up at the local Napa auto supply store. Seems to coat the tool surfaces quite well and has worked nicely as a rust preventative in my shop. I'm not on the beach, but I am in the deep forest. Moisture is a familiar problem here too.
I've never tried T-9 Boeshield and I see that it is expensive but if it'll protect your tools it's worth the bucks.

 

[Ed_McDonnell]

I'm in South Florida and we get our share of salt coming in with the trade winds. I use a product called rust reformer on the cast iron surfaces of my table saw, bandsaw and lathe ways every year or so. It darkens the metal and I don't have any problem with rust forming at all.

Sometimes I use a light coating of bowling alley wax on the lathe ways if they start to get sticky, but I don't think it's doing much to prevent rust.

I don't use anything on my turning tools. Just wipe them off after use before I put them back in the tool rack. I haven't had any issues with rust on them.

I don't use anything with silicone anywhere in my shop. It can cause finishing problems if it ends up getting transferred to a workpiece.

Ed

 

[bob elliott]

I use a product called rust reformer on the cast iron surfaces of my table saw, bandsaw and lathe ways every year or so. It darkens the metal and I don't have any problem with rust forming at all.

Ed,
Would that be a Rustoleum product?
http://www.rustoleum.com/product.asp?frm_product_id=30&SBL=1

 

[David Wilkins]

I'm in Nova Scotia, a few hundred feet from the Atlantic.
T-9 boeshield works excellently.

 

[n7bsn]

I'm in Nova Scotia, a few hundred feet from the Atlantic.
T-9 boeshield works excellently.

2nd that Boeshield (developed by Boeing to prevent corrosion) is my choice. I use it on the TS, the BS, the lathes, everything with a metal table or surface.

Boeing sold off the production a few years back, so it's no longer made by Boeing

It is available from most major wood-working outlets

Some people like T-9 Boeshield but it's pretty expensive.

Your tools are more expensive...

TTFN
Ralph

 

[Malcolm Smith]

I live a short distance from the ocean in California which has a prevailing on shore wind. Sprays, sealants etc. help but the main thing I do is run a de-humidifier all of the time I'm not actually in the shop. It's this that makes the biggest difference. Oiling tools really only deals with a small part of the problem.

Malcolm Smith.

 

[Rob Wallace]

One vote for Top Cote...

I'll put in a positive recommendation for Bostick Top-Cote for all machined surfaces - lathe ways, banjo, tailstock, as well as bandsaw, jointer, table saw, etc. Keeps rust at bay and maintains a really smooth sliding surface.

My routine maintenance (4-6 times per year) of these surfaces begins with a clean-up using a 'fine' rust eraser sold by Klingspor (aluminum oxide abrasive embedded in a rubberized matrix); this is followed by a wipe down with mineral spirits, then applying by a saturating spray of Top Cote. Excess can be buffed-off with a dry cloth. Takes only about 5-10 minutes to do this for my Jet 1642; less than 5 minutes for the Jet mini.

I also spray a protection coat of Top Cote onto the ways and banjo just before turning acidic wet woods, such as cherry; this helps keep the ways protected from penetrating water from wet shavings, etc. that would otherwise corrode the metal.

I've been using Top Cote for at least 18 years and am very happy with its ability to protect metal surfaces.

Rob Wallace

PS> Alex, I would stay away from all silicone-based lubricants and surface protectants. This violates one of the main wood finishing rules that silicone and wood finishes don't mix well. If this gets into the wood, finishes may not work very well; lots has been written about this.

 

[Ed_McDonnell]

Ed,
Would that be a Rustoleum product?
http://www.rustoleum.com/product.asp?frm_product_id=30&SBL=1

Bob - The smaller bottle with the red cap is the one I use. I didn't realize it was made by rustoleum.

Ed

 

[Ken Grunke]

The non-aerosol form of WD-40 is my choice, it contains about double the amount of oil as what's in the spray can. You can get a gallon can of it at most big borg stores. I have a refillable spray can I charge with an air compressor.

 

[Wyatt Holm]

What works great for keeping the bed ways clean and sliding quite well? I have been using paraffin wax but I don't know if that is a very good idea, it seems to attract dirt and grime.
Wyatt

 

[Rob Wallace]

What works great for keeping the bed ways clean and sliding quite well? I have been using paraffin wax but I don't know if that is a very good idea, it seems to attract dirt and grime.
Wyatt

Try Top Cote. See my comments above.

An article in either Wood or Fine Woodworking (I can't remember) some years ago found that paste wax did only a little to protect against rust, compared to Boeshield T-9 and Top Cote, and did not provide the same level of slideability/smoothness that these spray surface protectors did. While WD-40 was meant to be a water-displacement material (i.e. where "WD" comes from), it was never meant to be a lubricant or surface preservative; residue of WD-40 also attracts dust and this builds in cracks and crevices adjacent to the treated surface (i.e. around the banjo, tailstock, headstock mount, etc.). I can see how paraffin wax could easily do the same; we used to rub it on miter gauge slides on our table saws, and often had piles of wax accumulating on the miter gauge, as well as on various spots in the miter slot.

IMHO, Topcote or Boeshield T-9 are my choices for protecting wood lathe ways, and maintaining smooth action for the banjo and tailstock. YMMV....

Rob

 

[LHauch]

Living in the Pacific NW, where the humidity is rarely below 70%, I've been using the Boeshield T-9 on all my tools, after cleaning them with mineral spirits quarterly. For the ways and tool rest, I apply paraffin wax every work session after cleaning them off and dressing them with a fine file.
So far, I have not had any rust after two years on any of the tools or surfaces of my power tools.
It does help that I keep everything clean; not allowing any build up of chips or saw dust. I always wipe down my tools at the end of work and SWMBO makes sure that I vacuum up my work space in the garage.

Cheers,

 

[Ken Grunke]

I like Ed McDonnell's idea of fighting fire with fire, rust with rust. My old Craftsman table saw and my jointer have a dark patina of oxidation on the cast iron surfaces, and I have never seen a spot of rust on them. Firearms are purposely treated to form a protective skin of oxidation on them, either by blueing or the older method of browning.

Of course, you can't just let a surface rust--it needs some care and attention to keep the rust from attacking the metal deeper than the first few microns below the surface.

I'm not familiar with living in a salty environment so don't know how well this would apply there. But I would guess that whatever works on firearms in your area might be applicable to bare steel and iron on shop tools.

 

[Rob Wallace]

Tip From Wood Magazine on Rust Prevention

I got this from the Wood e-Newsletter, sent on December 31st...just clearing out old e-mails (I'd rather do this than work!) and found this tip.

Click HERE for comments on using Spar Varnish on tool tabletops....

Anyone want to try this?

Rob

 

[salgoud]

I lived on James Isand SC. The ocean is on one side of me and the harbor is on the other side. Humity is always high but I have not had much problems with rust. I used WD40 to coat the cast iron surfaces of my equipment and that seems to do the trick for me. I just use it a lot now now and then.

 

[Gregg]

I live in Arizona and don't have much of a salt spray problem, but being into lubricants. A gallon of sea water was collected from the Paciffic and transported across state lines. Legal?
Next I bought a box of nice bright 3 inch nails. Then I coated the nails with every lub. I could get my hands on. Wd, STP, 3 & 1, paste wax's, ATF,silicones, and some stuff called "Break Free" along with a bunch of exotic gun oils. 22 test tubes, W/corks, filled with sea water, and coated nails and "presto" rust. Wax, was ineffective, WD-40 spray, 8 hours, of all I tested Break Free made it 33 Days. The nails were soaked in their respective plastic bags for 24 hours prior to immersion.
Break Free as I understand is a penetrating tefflon suspended in who knows what, but it dries, dry, in a hour or 2. For some reason my shop gets dusty. I really like my tools to withstand power dusting (air hose & dust collection)without attracting more than necessary.
It's a easy test and it's informative.
Thanks Greg: From a lunar landscape.

 

[Gil Jones]

[FONT=&quot]My shop is well insulated, heated, and air conditioned, so corrosion from outside conditions is not such a problem. When turning wet/acidic woods a good post-turning cleanup is helpful, along with an occasional coating of bowling-ally wax to the unpainted steel and iron.

I have not used Top Cote or T-9, but they both sound worth a try. I see that West Marine sells T-9, but not the Top Cote. http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...eId=10001&Ntk=Primary+Search&ddkey=SiteSearch

Top Cote is marketed through Amazon, and many of the sites/stores woodworkers frequent; just Google either one.

I find it odd that after a 40-year stint in military/commercial aircraft maintenance (including MANY Boeing and Douglas products), I have never run into T-9.
One of the better preventives is to isolate/insulate the outside air from the in-shop air, especially if the outside air is moist and/or salt-laden. Maybe not the least costly way, but then quality tooling will perform better, and last much longer (while holding its value) if rust is controlled.
Good luck with your corrosion troubles.[/FONT]

 

[Steve Worcester]

The problem with WD-40 and other lubricants is that they don't dry and are a source of contamination on wood that will be sprayed with solvent based finishes later. I was talking to the custom painters about possible contamination and they relayed a story about clear coats with fisheyes, from Armour all sprayed over 100 yards away.

 

[Gil Jones]

I believe that "Armor All" contains a silicone emulsion, therefore it will cause fish-eyes, and who knows what other problems under an applied finish.

 

[MichaelMouse]

I'm a WD40 guy. I find that the amount of residual oil after a wipe is not sufficient to gather dust as a coat of paraffin can be. It's half Stoddard Solvent - paint thinner - and "12-18% LVP hydrocarbons" http://www.mobile-shop.com/parts/msds/P80_WD40.pdf so most goes away quickly.

When it's really bad, might want to use the old phosphoric acid treatment. The surface, fully covered by oxide, is exposed to phosphoric acid, which converts the rust to iron phosphate. Don't rinse, as the directions say, since the black iron phosphate is water-soluble. Give it some wax or oil to bead up the accidental water, and you'll get reasonable protection from further corrosion.

 

[Wyatt Holm]

I recently used a spray called "the dry lube" It sprayed on as a liquid but dried a white powder. It seemed to work quite well. Anyone have experience with that?

 

[Rick Anderson]

I use a product called Corrosion-X on my lathe beds after turning green wood. Boeshield is good, but Corrosion-x seems to do an even better job at preventing rust.