O.K..? Has this ever happened to anyone else

[pssmith]

I was turning something in chuck (Nova Precision Midi direct thread) and somewhere along the way of an enjoyable afternoon, the chuck has seated itself on the thread to the point it has decided it does not want to come off.

Can anyone offer any assistance in persuading it to come off the spindle? I've already introduced numerous versions of the hammer and have even BENT the tommy bars trying to get it off.

Any help, as always, is appreciated...Patrick

 

[Nice Bill]

UN-STUCK the STUCK

??------10

 

[Bertie Pittman]

Hi Patrick,

There is an article with information and tips on freeing a stuck chuck at the following link:

http://www.newwoodworker.com/turning/instrmvlathechuk.html

I hope it helps and good luck.

Bertie

 

[C Edward Moore]

To remove a stuck chuck, consider removing two opposing jaws and putting a piece of 4/4 oak about 1 1/2" to 2" wide in the gap created by the missing jaws. Tighten down on the oak so that you have 12" to 15" extended on one side. This lever should be able to free the chuck.

Maybe some Liquid Wrench would help?

Did you inadvertently get some CA glue where the chuck meets the spindle?

Good luck,

 

[pssmith]

Thanks for the suggestions

Thanks for the suggestions and the article. I'm off this morning to get a strap wrench and some liquid wrench to see if I can loosen things.

Patrick

 

[woodwish]

Once you get it off either make or buy a plastic washer. I bought some from CSUSA really cheap but only because I was making any order anyway, making them from a milk jug like above is definitely cheaper and faster (just never thought of it). I am not sure why the washer helps so much but it really does. I used to have to use wrenchs and get bloody knuckles, but now I can almost always loosen by hand.

Good luck, Woodwish

 

[Steve Worcester]

I am not a huge fan of the plastic washers.

The way a chuck (insert) is designed is for it to seat flat against the shoulder on the spindle. By doing so it puts in plane and concentric.

Often I have seen the placement of the washer make the chucks run out of center. That means that every time you remove the chuck and put it back on, you have to check first to make sure it is running true.

My ¢2

 

[woodwish]

Steve, I can see your point if the washer was not a consistant thickness. This may be a reason to buy milled plastic washers instead of just hacking up a blown-injected milk bottle with inconsistant thickness. I have never had a problem but the washers I have are consistant thickness (yes, I measured them with a micrometer out of couriosity). I had not thought about why the washer needed to be so accurate but you are right, I guess I never noticed it but it is important to be sure they are very consistant and a dense material. Maybe the milk jugs are not the answer?

Woodwish

 

[Mike Schwing]

You're going to laugh and think I'm nuts, but often hitting it with a hammer in the off direction will work when a wrench will not. Its an old trick from removing packing nuts on propeller shafts. Just a few good taps will often work and it'll amaze your friends, too.

I've done this on countless friend's boats when they have tried torches, wrenches, pry bars, etc.. I tell them they have to buy me lunch if I can get it unstuck in less than 5 minutes with nothing more than a hammer. I almost always get that lunch. Learned the trick from my granddad.

Its worth a try. BUT, I tried this with my PM3520 and the crappy cast iron spindle lock collar shattered in 2 pieces. So beware.

 

[Duane]

Plastic washers

I am sure you are correct Steve about the warshers made from milk jugs being uneven in thickness. I have not needed to use them yet, but wonder if they would create added vibration.
Happy turning.
Duane

 

[Erwin Nistler]

Hit it with a hammer while applying turning pressure. I learned this metnod on truck wheels. When the nuts are put on with an air wrench the only way to get them off is to apply pressure with the lug wrench while someone else hits the nut with a metal hammer. Of course if you carry an air wrench and compressor under the truck seat that will work also.

 

[pssmith]

Interestingly Enough

My lathe (Delta Midi) comes with a washer that I had taken off when turning pens because the washer would fly all over the place. I had no idea up to this point why it was there in the first place, now I know.

At any rate, the $20 two-pack of strap wrenches I found at Lowes did the trick. Unfortunately, the price of this invaluable experience is the chuck no longer opens and closes smoothly, but rather binds, the holes where the tommy bars go, both on the chuck and spindle are a little larger, and the tommy bars are bent.

I suppose in attempting to remain optimistic in a disappointing lesson is that it could have been worse in that this could have been a hard lesson on a $220+ chuck rather than the Precision Midi that I have.

Thanks again for all the help which what I'm sure is a re-occurring question.


Patrick

 

[Dtoggs]

Don't woodlathes reverse?

I would do the remove two jaw direction first. 2nd,put a block in the chuck such that it will hit the bed when reversed. Give it a quick start reversed,be sure to only jog it,don't want chuck coming off,just break free. I would coat the spindle where chuck bottoms,with NEVER SIEZE. I'm surprised there is not something specfically made for this application. I know this works for metal lathes,unsure of wood stuff. I would avoid hamer,but maybe a blow with a hand mallet would work

 

[Nice Bill]

Just a second tohught

.


Well I guess thats all I have to say {pps}

 

[C Edward Moore]

Bill,

I don't think you read post #4 very carefully. I suggested removing two opposing jaws and securing a piece of oak between them. Then I suggested using that piece of oak as a lever. At no time did I say anything about hitting anything. The word lever does NOT suggest percussion, just torque. I like good bearings and choose not to abuse them.

The risk factor here is that the screws holding the jaws might shear. If using two strap wrenches can provide sufficient torque to remove the chuck, then I doubt that sufficient torque to shear the screws is needed. But I don't think the teeth of the jaws are in jeopardy. While the main forces involved with the jaws are compression or expansion, considerable torque is imvolved when roughing large bowls.

My Oneway came with a sturdy wrench for securing the spindle. It is positioned between the ways when in place. I had a similar wrench made by a machinist for my Stubby 500. This avoids destroying the index system by using the pin unwisely.

The problem with plastic washers cut from milk containers is not that they are of uneven thickness, but that they allow the chuck to seat unevenly against the flange. As Steve indicated, many chucks depend on the plane of the flange to ensure that they are aligned properly.

 

[Mark Mandell]

Better Free Plastic Washers?

I cut my shoulder shiming out of the plastic snap-lids on coffee cans. They are smoother and a bit thicker and compress slightly so they're especially usefull when vacuum chucking to provide an excellent seal between the chuck and the spindle shoulder; increased my unit's pull by an easy 10" of Hg.

Had a Talon stick once on my old JET 1236. Strap wrench and a rap with a piece of 2x4 counterclockwize took it right off without using the spindle lock.

M

PS: Somebody get flamed via e-mail or PM? Posts are getting a bit defensive in tone.

Peace, guys. This is supposed to be fun

 

[Ron Sardo]

I am not a huge fan of the plastic washers.

The way a chuck (insert) is designed is for it to seat flat against the shoulder on the spindle. By doing so it puts in plane and concentric.

Often I have seen the placement of the washer make the chucks run out of center. That means that every time you remove the chuck and put it back on, you have to check first to make sure it is running true.

I have to agree with Steve on this one. What I do is place some thin corrugated cardboard on the spindle which will compress so the chuck will run square.

 

[Wally Dickerman]

In my many years of woodturning I have never used a washer of any kind. I can remember a couple of times when faceplates became stuck, requiring a large wrench and a mallet to remove them. It wasn't hard to figure out why they became stuck.

Nearly always, the reason faceplates or chucks become stuck is that they weren't properly installed on the spindle. I always use a wrench or other tool to insure that the faceplate or chuck is seated well. If it's not, when the lathe is turned on, it will seat itself very firmly, sometimes so forcefully that it becomes stuck.

Wally