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laser pointers

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Aug 17, 2007
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I'm using a laser pointer on a hollowing system and having a nightmare with the lasers dying in minutes. I've used one frome Office Depot and three from Lee Valley. The last one lasted twenty minutes and died. I mount them almost exactly like the system in LeeValleys catalog. I should add that LeeValley has been grate about replacing the ones that go south.
Help!
 
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Eugene, OR
I have been getting mine from Office Max, and they seem to work fine on my McNaughton coring system, and on my home made hollowing captured system. Don't really know the brand, but have had them for over a year. I am waiting for my Monster hollowing system to get here. Will know more about that one soon.
robo hippy
 

hockenbery

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I used a $10 one from radio shack for about 5 year then the battery cap came off one day and was lost forever shavings.

I was in the middle of a big form, Sherry rushed off to radio shack.
the cheapies were out of stock she got a $30 one.

The form was finished.
The amazing thing is batteries last about 3 times longer in the more expensive version.

happy hollowing
-Al
 
Joined
May 29, 2004
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billerica, ma
If you log onto the Association of Revolutionary Turners web site (MA chapter of AAW), there's a guy that sells lasers modified to plug into a wall outlet for a power source. Just look on the classified page.

dk
 
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Aug 8, 2005
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Ballard (Seattle) WA and Volcano, Hawaii....on top
JR,

Just curious. Have you seen someone else running a similar hollowing system? If yes, how did it compare in terms of vribration? I just wonder if there is something not snug on your setup that is vibrating the laser into an early grave?

Just a thought. It always bugs me when something continues to fail like that and it is not something others are experiencing.

Dave
 
Joined
Apr 26, 2004
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Moorhead, MN
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www.minndakwoodturners.com
laser pointer

For the laser pointer rigs our club makes for its annual toolmaking day, we use a laser pointer from Edmond Scientifics:
http://scientificsonline.com/product.asp?pn=3081887

They have proven to be very reliable (I've used mine for several years now), and the cost is only $9.95 plus shipping. The OD of the laser pen is just under 1/2", and a clothes pin works nicely to keep the on switch depressed.
 
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Jan 23, 2007
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I have one like from Edmond and use a clothes pin to hold it on , I dont fire it up till I get close and use it for spot checking so it is not used continiously. mine cost 4.95 and has a single LED flex lite with it also.
 
Joined
May 28, 2004
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portland or
Regarding your laser pointer not lasting, Several years ago we had Don Derry from Washington state visit our club, while taking his hands on demo, he out fitted our mini lathes with his wonderful hollowing systems equipped with lasers, one tidbit of information that he gave regarding laser pointers was that they typically aren't used for long periods of time especially with the pointer aiming down, there is typically a small spring inside of the pointer under the batteries, while it is pointing down and the weight of the batteries will cause the spring to compress slightly, causing the laser to act erratically, you can replace all of the batteries that you want and it still will react the same, his solution to the problem was to acquire a very small piece of plastic tubing about the diameter of the battery and about 3/16-1/4" in length, place this piece over the spring and it will aid in supporting the batteries, I had the same situation several years ago and tried this and it works great. Hope this helps.
 

Bill Boehme

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I'm using a laser pointer on a hollowing system and having a nightmare with the lasers dying in minutes. I've used one frome Office Depot and three from Lee Valley. The last one lasted twenty minutes and died. I mount them almost exactly like the system in LeeValleys catalog. I should add that LeeValley has been grate about replacing the ones that go south.
Help!

Something doesn't seem right. Can you post a picture of your set up? Does the laser pointer seem to vibrate a lot? Can you feel vibration if you do not see it?

JR,

Just curious. Have you seen someone else running a similar hollowing system? If yes, how did it compare in terms of vribration? I just wonder if there is something not snug on your setup that is vibrating the laser into an early grave?

Just a thought. It always bugs me when something continues to fail like that and it is not something others are experiencing.

Dave

That is what I am thinking. Vibration seems like the most likely cause. High-g vibration (i.e., high frequency, low amplitude) sometimes can't be seen, but can be felt. Electronic parts don't last very long in a high-g vibration environment. A stiff mounting arm is usually the culprit -- the cure is to normally reduce stiffness and thereby lower the frequency and energy level. The down-side is that the amplitude of the vibration might increase.
 
Joined
Aug 17, 2007
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Laser pointer

Im not sure this is the proper way to thank everyone who replied to my original post but that's my intent. I appreciate the helpful coments.

Thanks guys.
 
Joined
Nov 30, 2005
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Location
Mendota IL
Cheapest

Boys, I use the toy pointers that I get from the 'Bejing Bob' bin at my local Ace Hardware. They are $1.59 including batteries. Batteries last maybe 3 hollowforms. It has a little button on the side, so I press the whole thing into a hole in my clampblock which holds in the button and turns on the laser. The girl at the store saves 4 or 5 of them for me everytime they get a new shipment of this junk. My whole captured system is homemade, see pictures.

Frank
 

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Joined
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Tallahassee FL
I appreciate the business of controlling stiffness - Learned that lesson in repairing earthquake damage on some left coast wharves about 25 years ago.

I'm currently building a four-wheel steady rest with a square frame. I'd intended to place a smooth bar on the top for an auxiliary rest for a future laser arm. The idea was to drastically reduce the amplitude, along with fairly robust supporting elements for the laser arm. I haven't calculated any natural frequencies for it, and probably never will. I guess experimentation will tell the tale better than theory, but any preliminary thoughts on the concept?

Joe
 
Joined
Jul 3, 2005
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Laser pointers at Harbor Freight

I've been using a laser device from Harbor Freight for years. You can open the device and pull out the guts to use on your tool. The battery box is from Radio Shack and holds two AA batteries. Just wire it up through a switch ( used the one from the HF unit) and it will run for hours (assuming you remember to turn it off when not in use). I made a small box for the switch and suspended the switch and connections in hot glue. This is handy since you canput the batteries anywhere on the tool and run wires out to the light.
 

Bill Boehme

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I appreciate the business of controlling stiffness - Learned that lesson in repairing earthquake damage on some left coast wharves about 25 years ago.

I'm currently building a four-wheel steady rest with a square frame. I'd intended to place a smooth bar on the top for an auxiliary rest for a future laser arm. The idea was to drastically reduce the amplitude, along with fairly robust supporting elements for the laser arm. I haven't calculated any natural frequencies for it, and probably never will. I guess experimentation will tell the tale better than theory, but any preliminary thoughts on the concept?

Joe

This explanation applies to tiny electronic parts and not necessarily large structures. The main objective is to get as far away from any structural resonance points as you can. Low frequency resonances are not bad from the perspective of damage to electronic parts because low frequency equals low energy, but on the downside, low frequency equals large amplitude. High frequency resonances sometimes are of such low amplitude that you can't see the motion, but you can feel it with your fingers. The thing to remember is that high frequency equals high energy and that is a bad thing. Because this is closer to the natural frequency of tiny component assemblies, they are more likely to break when subject to such an environment. Making something structurally stiff might seem like the smart way to go, and it probably is where structures are concerned, but when it comes to tiny vibration sensitive parts, the objective is to decouple them from the source of vibration by reducing stiffness. Another approach is to use some sort of vibration isolators. For small parts, it could be something as simple as a small soft pad made from open-cell foam. Closed-cell foam is usually too stiff. In addition, mass can be added on the electronics side of the isolator to lower the overall resonant frequency of the electronics.
 
Joined
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This explanation applies to tiny electronic parts and not necessarily large structures. The main objective is to get as far away from any structural resonance points as you can. Low frequency resonances are not bad from the perspective of damage to electronic parts because low frequency equals low energy, but on the downside, low frequency equals large amplitude. High frequency resonances sometimes are of such low amplitude that you can't see the motion, but you can feel it with your fingers. The thing to remember is that high frequency equals high energy and that is a bad thing. Because this is closer to the natural frequency of tiny component assemblies, they are more likely to break when subject to such an environment. Making something structurally stiff might seem like the smart way to go, and it probably is where structures are concerned, but when it comes to tiny vibration sensitive parts, the objective is to decouple them from the source of vibration by reducing stiffness. Another approach is to use some sort of vibration isolators. For small parts, it could be something as simple as a small soft pad made from open-cell foam. Closed-cell foam is usually too stiff. In addition, mass can be added on the electronics side of the isolator to lower the overall resonant frequency of the electronics.

Actually it applies to larger structures, too. Stiffer structure -->> higher reactions. In earlier designs, piers, wharves and bridges were designed to resist EQ load by brute strength; now the preferred method is to allow more drift and design for flexural load. Local isolation sounds like the way to go because I don't want the laser to spray its light over too large an area. Thanks for your insight.

Joe
 
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