Kelton Hollower Tools

[roy knapp]

Kelton has 3 Piece sets of hollowing tools 5/16, 1/2, 5/8, and 3/4" they also have the handle to hold these tools.

I know this setup is for free hand holling and from what i have read and heard you can start off with these tools once a center hole has been made in the blank (say 3/4") is this true? and has anyone had any experience with these tools?

I had the 5/8" set in mind and donot plan on going any deeper than 6".

 

[Steve Worcester]

I have the 1/2" and the 3/4". I use them both in a captive bar, like a Jamieson system.

The only issue I have with them is that the cutting edge is at the top of the bar. With the cutter on center the minimum opening is twice the diameter of the bar. Also, it helps to grind back the bottom a bit so that you can get into tighter space and you won't always have to predrill the opening.

If you aren't going deeper than 6", you may want to go with a smaller diameter, unless you anticipate wide tops which will put you at odd angles to get under the necks. In that case, you have More tool overhang and would benefit from larger diameter.

 

[Barbara Gill]

I have all of the sets and also use them with the captive bar system.

 

[Garmar]

I have the half inch set and use them free hand without much in the way of problems. The idea of grinding the bottom away appeals to me.

 

[DWFII]

I have either the half inch or the five-eights inch set. I hate them. I have tried and tried to use them free hand...I kept the instructions and re-read it everytime I get the notion to beat myself up again. I just can't get the hang of them. They seem to chatter or vibrate at a very fast frequency that makes me tense and cuts very unevenly. Try as I might to go slow and use a light touch I get ridges all through the vessel. And catches are common.

Now having said all that, I use a Sorby MultiTip tool with ease and many folks who like the Keltons can't stand the Sorby. The problem with the sorby is that you need a larger hole.

I'd try the Keltons with a captive system but I don't know anyone who makes one for a Jet 1014 mini. And I'm reluctant to pay as much as the lathe itself cost me.

 

[Mike Cunningham]

I have the 5/8" set and use them both freehand and now in my Jamieson rig. I drill a 1" hole to whatever depth is necessary and no problems. Keeping them sharp is key, I use a diamond card. If need be, you can drill a larger hole and cover that later with a collar.

 

[Bernie Weishapl]

I have the 5/16" for smaller stuff like ornaments and the 5/8". I like them both. You can hog wood with them or you can make a delicate shear cut for a smooth inside. I handled all six of mine.

 

[David Somers]

I have the full set of Keltons and have really enjoyed them.

For the person who was having difficulties with them chattering...
So long as I observe a few things while working with them they seem to be really stable tools.
First, the actual cutting edge needs to be onthe midline of the bowl, when the whole tool is horizontal, include the curved section if you are using the curved tools. I finally started using a set number of washers on my tool rest post so I could quickly reproduce the right height.
Once that height is set, the agressiveness of the cut is adjusted by where you rotate the cutting edge to, ranging from the center line and going down from there. Don't get above the center line or ugly things can happen.
Other things that affect chatter are
Reaching too far over the tool rest for the diameter of the tool, and the agressiveness of the cut. Either ease off on the cut, or use a thicker tool, or use a tool rest that lets you support the tool from inside the bowl so you are not hanging out so far. Another trick is to extend the handle out to counter then length of the overhang into the bowl.
Keeping the tool sharp is also key to no chatter. Remember it is essentially a scraper. It is the burr on the cutting edge that is doing the work.

Regarding having to have such a large opening compared to the diameter of the tool shaft? You can actually get away with a hole just bigger than the tool if you drill your hole first, then use the straight tool to angle in until you have enough hollow space in the bowl to work in. Then turn off the lathe, put a curved tool in by snaking it in, position it near where you want to cut and then turn the lathe back on. Remember to turn the lathe off when you are ready to remove the tool. That seems to work for me.

Lastly, the tool handles can be used with other manufacturers tools, and vice versa. Just pay attention to the diameter of shaft a given handle can work with.

Hope that helps!

Dave

 

[Carole Valentine]

I use them almost exclusively

I have three sets (all but the largest) and use them freehand in both Kelton and Hosaluk handles. They are my "go to" hollowing tools.