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shop lighting

Joined
Jan 2, 2005
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Location
Dothan, Alabama
I'm fed up with the lighting or lack of it in my shop. I currently have a total of 4 8ft fluorescent tubes and a clamp on shop light over the lathe. This is for a 20X22 shop. Even on a good day it isn't overly lit. And on a cold damp day the fluorescent overheads just flicker and its too dark to work.

Does any one have any suggestions?. I've confused myself with trying to figure out differences in fluorescent lighting. It didn't help when the person I was asking at our local big box store knew less than I did.
 
Joined
May 30, 2005
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SW Wisconsin
I just up-graded the lighting in my shop. The newer shoplight fixtures are a lot better than the old ones. Look for the fixtures that claim they will start at 0 degrees. Those fixtures usually work with both T-8 and T-12 bulbs. The fixtures cost a little more, but are well worth it. Surprisingly, I found that the T-8 (32 watt) bulbs work better in these fixtures than the old T-12 40 watt bulbs and they seem to give more light.

p.s. I have 20 shoplight fixtures for a 25' x 32' room.
 
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Joined
Dec 10, 2006
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Sacramento
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www.masterwoodcreations.com
I have the same problem, I was helping my friend build his house and his next door neighbor is almost done with his house, he is also a woodworker. He put in recessed flood lights, and HO (High Output) flourescent lights. He told me to check out Home Depot, they carry them, they are also $$$.. The lighting in his shop was very nice. I haven't made it to HD yet to check them out, maybe tomorrow.
 
Joined
Jun 5, 2005
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Location
Saint John, N.B. Canada
Gran, Fine Woodworking had an excellent article titled "Lighting for the Workshop" Jan/Feb 2002 issue. Perhaps you can fine someone local that may have it. I have often had luck at the local library for past issues. Good luck with your lighting project.

Bruce in Saint John, N.B.
 
Joined
Jul 18, 2006
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Location
Central Florida
I wouldn't go with HO. You'll have a much harder time finding bulbs that suit you. You could go VHO but you might want to consider compact flourescent instead.

A 4-foot NO (normal output) tube is rated 40 watts. A 4-foot VHO (very high output) tube is rated 110 watts. The tubes will run you $20 - $30 each and last 1 - 2 years. You want to run an electronic ballast (rated for VHO) which will run you $100+ (I've had great luck over the years with Icecap ballasts). You'll need one ballast for each fixture which starts to add up pretty quickly. The end caps in your fixtures have to be able to handle the higher heat of the VHO.

Don't buy specialty equipment like VHO (or compact flourescent) at a big box. You'll be sorry. If you really want to go down this road, go to a lighting speciaty store.

Having said all that, it would probably be most cost effective for you to just add more NO fixtures. Or add some spot track lighting (but use the new compact flourescent screw in bulbs instead of incadescent to save on heat / electricity).

Ed
 
Joined
May 15, 2004
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Location
Western North Carolina mountains
Use incandescents also

Flourescents without incandescent can stop the action of all kinds of turning ww equipment. Use spot light above all dangerous things like lathes, tablesaws, etc. Think stage coach wheels on TV westerns from the sixties. The spokes turned backwards. This same effect can make things look stationary. :)

Bill Turpin in WNC mountains
 

john lucas

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When I moved into my new shop which is a 2 car garage, lighting was a big issue. It's 24x24. I like it bright. I could not afford the good light fixtures so I bought a whole bunch of the cheapies. I plan to eventually upgrade them a few at a time but so far they are doing well. I have 8 double light 4 foot fixtures right now and will add a couple more shortly. I place them over each important area such as the workbench, table saw, lathe etc. I added a carving bench and metal lathe/mill which both need lights.
So far the cold hasn't affected them too much. Usually it's a bulb going bad when it does flicker. I buy the bulbs when lowes has a sale so I get them for really cheap and try to keep plenty of spares.
Then I have small incandescent lamps on flexible arms at the lathe and a couple that can be moved easilly when I'm working at the carving bench or other machine that needs a strong light.
 
Joined
Feb 21, 2005
Messages
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Location
Topsfield, MA. USA.
Lighting the shop - what is working for me

My basement workshop started with the standard porcelain ceiling fixtures each with a 40W incandescent bulb, I added the inexpensive fluorescents across the shop, that gave me sufficient lighting to sweep the floors but not much else.

So at each station that needed help I added an incandescent work light. The first ones I added were old desktop lamps with articulating arms. These were OK for some activities, like the table saw, sharpening, buffing, but didn't work well for me at the lathe. The quality of the light was much better but I am also a little uncomfortable with these lights around anything that is spinning. The vibration helps the light move, and I am always concerned that the spinning tool will come in contact with the glass bulb. There is also the danger that the arm will fall to the point where the bulb is in contact with a rag, a pile of shavings, or a cloth buffing wheel. I am very careful.

I then picked up a used dental exam light. This is the best thing I did. The light hangs from the ceiling and can be positioned to give light wherever I need it, including on the inside of a bowl or vessel. The lights run hot inside their enclosure, but are cool enough outside and have a plastic shield that keeps dust and shavings away from the bulb. I liked this solution well enough so I just purchased two more used lights on eBay last night. The quality of the light feels much better than either the inexpensive flourescent or the stock incandescent.

These lights are flexible but are permanently attached. I needed something I could move when turning an awkward piece, when the piece needs lighting from the side or bottom; Or even when working on another tool in the shop. I purchase a 20W halogen task lamp with magnetic base from Enco. Nice light, it adheres to the headstock or ways of the lathe, and to just about any other cast iron tool in the shop. The light is bright enough to use to light a machine's work area, and the low wattage seems to not generate the heat that I had previously associated with these types of lamps. The bulb is sealed inside a small enclosure that stays cool to the touch.

That's what I have that is working for me. My next step is to upgrade the fluorescents. I learned from my dentist that they use special high output -daylight emulation fourescents. I am sure they are pricey compared to what I bought from HD. but they last forever. The lighting in a dentist office has to be right on so they can do cosmetic work, so these have to be a pretty good choice.

It is a certain truth that good lighting is the cause of most fine scratches and tiny tool marks, so be careful. :)

Jeff
 
Joined
Jan 31, 2006
Messages
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Location
Tomahawk Wi.
Halogen task light

I too had an issue with flickering florecents. I picked up a few of the double light halogen overhead lights that have two output settings. I put one above each of my lathes, sharpening station , and saw. They come with a long cord and a chain switch to select high, low or off. I run the lights to a high power outlet strip which also has the other tools/lights for that station plugged into. When I go to a station ,I just hit the switch on the strip and all of the lights for that station as well as the tool are energized.
A side benefit of the halogen bulb is a warn yellow light that produces enough heat to cut some of the cool dampness in the shop by the station.These bulbs are not as energy efficient as florecents (which I use for general lighting) but with the two levels I can adjust the light to my needs and also use them only when working at the station.
 
Joined
Jul 18, 2006
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Halogens are bright for sure, but they also get incredibly hot. Good for heating a cold shop. Not so good if they accidentally get knocked over into a pile of chips or if too much wood dust accumulates where it can combust.

Ed
 
Joined
Jan 31, 2006
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Location
Tomahawk Wi.
Halogen lights

I agree Ed, Halogens can get very hot. The lamps I purchased are hung from suppled chains on the ceiling. The lights are mounted on the bottom of a 4 inch diameter metal tube that insulates the top dust collecting area fairly well. Dust does accumulate on them over time as it does on everything, and should be cleaned from time to time.
 
Joined
May 30, 2005
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SW Wisconsin
Halogen Lights

I initially had a double light halogen fixture over my lathe. It had a very pronounced strobe effect. The newer high efficiency fluorescent shop light fixtures don't seem to have this problem, at least I've haven't seen it and I have a fixture mounted directly above each lathe. (Protected by a high-impact plastic blast shields of course!)
 
Last edited:

Steve Worcester

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tomcatmartin said:
I agree Ed, Halogens can get very hot. The lamps I purchased are hung from suppled chains on the ceiling. The lights are mounted on the bottom of a 4 inch diameter metal tube that insulates the top dust collecting area fairly well. Dust does accumulate on them over time as it does on everything, and should be cleaned from time to time.
I had those and they kept exploding the heat glass in front of the bulb.

You can get HO flourescents at the big box. I have serveral 8's wired in series and they have the bulbs readily available.
 
Joined
Apr 26, 2004
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Location
Smith County, Texas
A suggestion I haven't seen posted yet: Paint; paint; paint! White. Paint the ceiling and walls the whitest white you can find. You'd be amazed at the difference it makes. Also, the 4' flourescents are much more economical than the 8' ones are, and have fewer problems. My shop is 16x36 and I have 12 4' lights. And, it's painted white. I still use incadescents at the lathes and other power tools. Ed
 
Joined
Mar 17, 2005
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Location
Cape Cod, Ma
I have a basement shop with a large glass door off to the left of my lathe (not in firing line :D ). I have 6 4' flourescent twin lights covering most of the shop. At the Bandsaw I have a painters incandescent light (clip on). The drill press has it's own light. Over the lathe I have 2 300w halogen light shining down from two different sides hard mounted to the celing. To augment those I have two more painters lights at each end. The combination of lights works well for me.

In the painters lights I use rough service bulbs.

---Nailer---
 
Joined
Jan 31, 2006
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Location
Gaston, Oregon
Shop lights

:cool2: :cool2: My shop is lit with the twin 4 foot lights, but I use "daylight" or "sunlight" tubes (not bulbs) in them. It's a different color spectrum, and really brings out all colors much better. They are more money than the cheepies (coolwhite, etc.), but are much easier on the eyes. I still use the incandescent bulbs at work stations. :D
 
Joined
May 7, 2004
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Location
Lynn Haven, FL
My shop is 16' x 32' roughly with 10' ceiling. Running down the shop I have two rows of double-tube 4' flourescents. I did spring for the electronic ballasts instead of the cheapie "shop" lights. Bought them at Home Depot with the wrap-around plastic lenses for maybe $30 each. I also have several of the same 4' lights below a shelf maybe 7' from the floor above the lathe, radial arm saw, and my workbench. I also have two tracklights with 4 lights each above the table saw and work table. Above some tools I have a flexible arm light but have replaced the regular bulbs with screw-in flourescents. I like my shop bright! The flourescents with electronic ballasts do not have the cold temp problem that regualr ones do.

Someone above mentioned painting the whole shop white, which is probably more important than the lighting. Not only should you paint the ceiling and walls white but use "ceiling" white. It has more of something in it to make it more reflective, and there really is a difference! If you are going to paint it, paint it with the best reflective ceiling white you can find. Also periodically blow the accumulated dust off the lights and the walls. Even with an air cleaner and a strong DC I still get dust in the fixtures and sticking to the walls.
 

Steve Worcester

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Ed Heuslein said:
Also, the 4' flourescents are much more economical than the 8' ones are, and have fewer problems.
As far as more economical, it is also based on availability. Actual light output (lumens) isn't necessarily tied to the electricity usage.

Wattage
48" Standard bulb 40 watts
48" HO Bulb 60 watts
48" VHO 110 watts

96" Standard bulb 75 watts
96" HO bulb 110 watts
96" VHO 215 watts

Also, a standard ballast is less efficient and produces more heat than a solid state ballast. More wattage also means more heat
 
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