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Carbide bandsaw blades

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Jan 10, 2007
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www.massmans.org
I am needing to purchase a new bandsaw blade. I have had good luck with the timberwolf 3tpi x 1/2" blades but they dont seem to last very long. I mainly use my Grizzly G1019 (w/ riser) bandsaw for cutting blanks before mounting on my jet 1236. I do trim most of the blanks with a chainsaw before making round on bandsaw. So there is still some bark which is probably dulling the blade. I mainly use green wood that is about 6" deep or less.

So what are everyone thoughts on carbide blades for rounding blanks.

Here is the one I was looking at purchasing.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/H6998
At $53 if it would out last two timberwolf blades it would be more economical.

Thanks for your thoughts,
Steve Massman
 

Steve Worcester

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What I have heard about carbide (tipped) blades is they are great for resawing dry wood, but work terrible on wet wood.

How long are your current blades lasting? (As a tip, make sure the back guide is close enough so that the blade can't hit the teeth on the side guides. Hitting the teeth on the side guides will remove the set. Blade will still be sharp, but no set.
 

Bill Boehme

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What Steve says is correct -- the carbide blades are designed for resawing dry wood. I think that the tannic acid in wet wood can weaken both the carbide matrix and also the brazing over time and since the carbide blades are meant to be resharpened, that can significantly reduce their useful life.

For sawing blanks, a bunch of throw-away el cheapo blades can be had for the cost of a carbide blade.

Bill
 
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Call Suffolk Machinery (Timberwolf) http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/ and ask for their recommendation. I once considered using carbide tipped blades too and they told me that for the application I am planning it won't help me much and my money will be better spent using the regular blades.

Very honest and professional people...great price on greta blades too!!! ;)

I know I sound like a commerciasl for them but I am an extremely satisfied customer.
 
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I also have a 14" Grizzly with riser (different model). Someone in our Club recommended me to go to a local sharpening place to have BS blades made. It was only $6 for a 105" blade made while I was waiting. It is almost as good as Timberwolf. I can afford to replace them more often. A new blade is better than an expensive blade that has passed its prime, but too good to throw away.
I don't have to stock up or pay shipping.

Gordon
 
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Save Your Money

Cut the octagon with your chainsaw then do the rest with your gouge on the lathe. If you mount the blank between centers to start, you'll have much greater flexibility to adjust the blank to improve balance of the grain "landscape". Once you cut it round on the bandsaw you'll resist changing the mounting on the lathe.

If you're cutting dirty wood, and really want carbide, consider a carbide-tipped chain for your chainsaw. Arborist friend uses one and goes a LONG time between sharpenings.

mm
 
Joined
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Thanks for the help

Thanks for all the help. My main need to is to get bigger logs round
so that i can put them on my limited Jet 1236. It doesnt do well with
large octagons blanks.
I will look into resharpening and also staying with timberwolf blades or Highlands bowl blades.

Steve
 
Joined
Apr 24, 2004
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Location
Toronto, Ontario Canada
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www.phoenixwood.ca
furniture band blades

I've had great success with these from: http://www.tufftooth.com/

Furniture Band

With a .032 blade thickness, this blade has increased beam strength, great fatigue and wear resistance. It has an extra-wide kerf designed to help cut the wet stringy fiber found in green wood. Great blade for wood turners or carver's for roughing out blanks where a smooth finish is not required. Can not be used on saws with wheels smaller than 12".

The 3/8" 3TPI seems to work best with hard maple crotches that i cut.

other manufacturers may have a similar product.

not affiliated.
 
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