Two questions... how do you bleach wood/what solution do you use? Would regular clorox work? And will bleaching work on any wood???
-
Beware of Counterfeit Woodturning Tools (click here for details) -
Johnathan Silwones is starting a new AAW chapter, Southern Alleghenies Woodturners, in Johnstown, PA. (click here for details) -
Congratulations to Keven Jesequel for "Big Leaf Maple" being selected as Turning of the Week for April 15, 2024 (click here for details) -
Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.
Bleaching???
- Thread starter Jonathon.C
- Start date
Clorox won't work, it's too weak. What I use is a 2-part bleach, two liquids that you mix together and brush on. I got it at Woodcraft but it isn't on their web site. Finally found it here: http://www.kleanstrip.com/woodbleachproject.htm. Some hardware/paint stores may carry it.
Graeme
Graeme
Wood Bleach
Hello there,
I have used a proprietry domestic bleach on a number of occaisions, and although it takes repeated applications, it does work. However, a company called Liberon do produce a dedicated product which is far better. There's an American company: http://www.kingdomrestorations.com/liberon.html that sells the product. Look under Polishes & Cleaners.
Like a lot of things with wood, some will bleach more easily than others. I've bleached Elm, Oak, Ash, Chestnut, all to good effect. Do remember though, once you've achieved the effect you want, that you need to neutralize the bleach by rinsing with clean water and allowing to dry.
Andy
Hello there,
I have used a proprietry domestic bleach on a number of occaisions, and although it takes repeated applications, it does work. However, a company called Liberon do produce a dedicated product which is far better. There's an American company: http://www.kingdomrestorations.com/liberon.html that sells the product. Look under Polishes & Cleaners.
Like a lot of things with wood, some will bleach more easily than others. I've bleached Elm, Oak, Ash, Chestnut, all to good effect. Do remember though, once you've achieved the effect you want, that you need to neutralize the bleach by rinsing with clean water and allowing to dry.
Andy
john lucas
AAW Forum Expert
I buy my 2 part bleach from the local hardware. It depends on the wood on how well it bleaches and how many cycles are needed. Some woods really change. Osage Orange for example goes gray. Consequently I urge you to test the wood before you commit a serious piece to bleach.
Usually they just lighten but some do unusual things. On some woods only the lighter portion of the wood bleaches. On box elder the red doesn't bleach on the white which is great. There's an african wood that escapes my memory right now. It's chocolate brown with dark brown sections. Only the lighter chocolate bleaches which is really nice because it ends up looking like really exotic zebra wood.
Usually they just lighten but some do unusual things. On some woods only the lighter portion of the wood bleaches. On box elder the red doesn't bleach on the white which is great. There's an african wood that escapes my memory right now. It's chocolate brown with dark brown sections. Only the lighter chocolate bleaches which is really nice because it ends up looking like really exotic zebra wood.
Steve Worcester
Admin Emeritus
I have used the Kleenstrip for some time, but recently got some two part from Hood Finishing that works way better (maybe just less applications). It is a 2 part as well, but you don't dare mix part A and B. You brush on "A", let it sit for 5 minutes to open up the pores. Then you brush on part B. If you put on B early, things get pretty warm.
With bleaching solutions it is pretty critical that you wear good gloves and eye protection. It burns skin real well too. And will bleach out your toes if you "happen" to get some on your feet.
With bleaching solutions it is pretty critical that you wear good gloves and eye protection. It burns skin real well too. And will bleach out your toes if you "happen" to get some on your feet.
Qxalic Acid available as a powder from any marine supply store including Boat U S and West Marine. Oxalic is the active ingredient in all of the commercially available 'wood bleach' products
not all
Oxalic acid is used to remove black water rings and iron stains from wood. The two part bleaches use different chemicals. The two part bleaches are what you want to make wood lighter in color.Mort said:
- Joined
- Jan 27, 2005
- Messages
- 12,895
- Likes
- 5,178
- Location
- Dalworthington Gardens, TX
- Website
- pbase.com
I have used oxalic acid for many years for bleaching wood, however, it is mainly for removing gray weathered wood from decks and fences. It does take much of the color out of woods that are high in extractives such as redwood and cedar. I know that it is effective in lightening the color of oak.
Bill
Bill
I tested several bleaches on red oak recently. The two part bleach (sodium hydroxide and hydrogen peroxide) worked well, but it took multiple applications of the peroxide to remove most of the color. (And the peroxide alone didn't do anything, it needs an initial treatment with the sodium hydroxide solution.)
The one that was surpising was household chlorine bleach (i.e. Chlorox). It drastically reduced the color in just one application (and foamed like crazy). So don't write off chlorine bleach completely.
The one that was surpising was household chlorine bleach (i.e. Chlorox). It drastically reduced the color in just one application (and foamed like crazy). So don't write off chlorine bleach completely.
More potent chlorine bleach (10.5 percent vs. about 6 percent for Clorox) is available from pool supply shops. The empty jug costs more than the bleach, but from then on, you just swap empty jugs for filled jugs. My last purchase was early September, at about $4 for 2.5 gallon refill from Pinch-A-Penny. Might be cheaper when/if gasoline prices drop. YMMV.
JG
JG
Bleaching
I have a quantity of big leaf maple burls that were slabbed long ago. They have turned into a dun gray/tan color, very dull and uninspiring. The coloring is from weathering and sun, I assume. I have questions: 1) Any chance of the burl being returned to its pre-weathered color? 2) I assume I would ruff turn, bleach, final turn and sand or must I final turn then bleach? 3) how deep can one expect the bleach to penetrate?
I have a quantity of big leaf maple burls that were slabbed long ago. They have turned into a dun gray/tan color, very dull and uninspiring. The coloring is from weathering and sun, I assume. I have questions: 1) Any chance of the burl being returned to its pre-weathered color? 2) I assume I would ruff turn, bleach, final turn and sand or must I final turn then bleach? 3) how deep can one expect the bleach to penetrate?
- Joined
- May 16, 2005
- Messages
- 3,540
- Likes
- 15
Peroxide and hydroxide, the two part stuff, is probably the most effective bleach. It's what the big boys use. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bleaching_of_wood_pulp As you know, the surface wood is weakened as the color is oxidized away. High-energy light and constant dilution is what what happens to "barnwood," and is likely the culprit with your burls. Any distance under the surface beyond the checks should be as good as it gets, unless you're looking at fungus all the way to delignification.
I'd plane a few sections and just add amber-colored oil base finishes or unbleached shellac to see what happens. Shellac has the advantage of hardening the punky surface a bit as well.
I'd plane a few sections and just add amber-colored oil base finishes or unbleached shellac to see what happens. Shellac has the advantage of hardening the punky surface a bit as well.
We had a 2 hr. demo at our last meeting by John Noffsinger, who uses Klean-Strip 2-part exclusively. You can see some of what he uses it for on his website: http://www.johnnoffsinger.com/. I guess you could call him serious . . .
Bleaching
Thanks for the tips Michael. I should have mentioned that I turned a natural edge platter from a burl slab and the distressing color, or lack of color, remained constant to half thickness--suggesting the color is constant all the way through. Lacquer did not improve the color. I am thinking that maybe the slabs can be bleached to an almost white which would make an attractive piece. I think I have seen some bleached out burls, at least I have seen very white maple burls.
Thanks for the tips Michael. I should have mentioned that I turned a natural edge platter from a burl slab and the distressing color, or lack of color, remained constant to half thickness--suggesting the color is constant all the way through. Lacquer did not improve the color. I am thinking that maybe the slabs can be bleached to an almost white which would make an attractive piece. I think I have seen some bleached out burls, at least I have seen very white maple burls.