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small containers for homemade finishes

Joined
Oct 25, 2020
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I searched a bit and came across nothing. In years past when mixing homemade wiping finishes, I used glass baby food jars, supplied either by the parents of a baby, or I'd purchase the most disgusting baby food recipe at the store, discard the jar contents, wash it and put it into service. Careful, don't break them in the shop!

I was at Woodcraft last week and saw these on the shelf, solvent-proof plastic 3oz jars with screw lids made for the finish spray system for they are sold. Perfect! 6 in a package and they won't break in a shop mishap. The 3oz volume dimension is about 2"x2".

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/...ImpLu2KnM7QIVUdbACh363ggWEAQYASABEgLhv_D_BwE#
 
Joined
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Been using 4oz mason jars for 40 years, don't want to jinx myself so won't tell you I haven't broken one yet. Less expensive than other methods.
I decant my finishes, name and date, then store upside down. I think a flat of 12 is less then 10 bucks. I guess it's time to open the one in the middle and see if it sill sets up. Apparently, there was a conversation about 8 years ago on how to store finishes:). The one on the right is still fluid (hasn't jelled), the experiment was to put fresh finish in a jar that had already been used, not cleaning out the old ,set up, finish and see if the new finish would jell prematurely... it didn't. The wax paper on the jar on the left is so it is easier to get the ring off, as in, drips of finish on the threads won't glue the ring on...
But, to answer your question, yes, I would bet the plastic jars from woodcraft would work...

mason jars.jpg
 
Joined
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Nashville, TN
Been using 4oz mason jars for 40 years, don't want to jinx myself so won't tell you I haven't broken one yet. Less expensive than other methods.
I decant my finishes, name and date, then store upside down. I think a flat of 12 is less then 10 bucks. I guess it's time to open the one in the middle and see if it sill sets up. Apparently, there was a conversation about 8 years ago on how to store finishes:). The one on the right is still fluid (hasn't jelled), the experiment was to put fresh finish in a jar that had already been used, not cleaning out the old ,set up, finish and see if the new finish would jell prematurely... it didn't. The wax paper on the jar on the left is so it is easier to get the ring off, as in, drips of finish on the threads won't glue the ring on...
But, to answer your question, yes, I would bet the plastic jars from woodcraft would work...

View attachment 36350
WOW! wax paper on the ring...why didn't I think of that. Thanks.
 
Joined
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Haubstadt, Indiana
It is expensive...as a a "spray can sized" item. But 1 can will likely last most of us a few years. It takes very little per use in small containers.

I guess I don’t know the proper way to use it. I bought a can and it didn’t last me a month and I wasn’t all that successful as some finishes had a skim. The stop loss bags work for me although it can be a little messy squeezing the air out.
 
Joined
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When a discussion like this comes up, the oxygen permeability of plastic becomes part of the discussion. It's the reason that finishes still come in metal cans instead of cheaper plastic containers.
 
Joined
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Hot Springs, AR
I gave up on bloxygen after trying it a few times. The last couple times I had skim over on a quart of poly. I wrote to bloxygen and they sent me a new can but one big problem is that there is no way to tell if the can is full or empty. So the only way to tell if it's working is to wait it out. I didn't like the suspense. Stop-Loss bags work great.
 
Joined
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Tim, the jar lid goes on the jar, then the wax paper, then the ring. I rip off about a 3" strip and fold it over for a double layer, it just makes unscrewing the ring easier on a used, dripped on jar. On freshly filled jars, I don't use it cause the threads are clean...
I agree on the lots of choices thing, for me, the bloxigen didn't always work (operator error probably), putting marbles or clean rocks in the can seemed wasteful, and a bit fiddly, as in save? clean? or throw out?. Someone mentioned squeezing the can to raise the fluid level which to me seemed like asking for trouble.
I suppose, if I were to make a change, I'd go with the stop loss bags.
 
Joined
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Thanks for clarifying Bill, and Clifton! I had a mental picture of the waxed paper being first, and thus exposed tot eh contents of the jar....:confused:

As for the Bloxygen...It is pure Argon gas - heavier than air, and in a spray can. Not sure we are talking about the same thing on that one either...?
 
Joined
Oct 25, 2020
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As a short-term replacement for Bloxygen, take a deep breath, hold it for 10 seconds, and while doing this stage the container cap just above the opening. At 10 seconds, gently blow a full breath into the container, then shut it quick. You'll displace a lot of the oxygen rich room air and replace it with oxygen poor "exhaust" from your lungs. Learn more here, it talks about normal breathing but I think we can extrapolate that after 10 seconds there is little oxygen left in your exhale.
https://www.bbc.co.uk/bitesize/guides/z9hycdm/revision/3

Okay, I have no idea how effective this would be at slowing the in-can finish curing process, and a mixture of mostly nitrogen and carbon dioxide probably is not as effective as argon (Bloxygen), but in a pinch, I found it works for short term storage (weeks, not months to indefinite). I've never noticed issues from humidity in my breath causing an issue with the finish.

For small opening cans (Minwax Wiping Poly, Watco, etc), a drinking straw will help deliver your lung exhaust into the can. For wide mouth containers, just tip the loose-fit lid off the can, blow in, and then quickly seal it. Don't blow hard enough to make a mess. Good luck, and remember, don't inhale next to that can!

Lastly, some wineries or liquor stores sell a can similar to Bloxygen for keeping opened, unfinished bottles of wine fresh. I bought a can earlier this summer.
 
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I got it into my head to try using the canned "air" they sell in computer stores. My trial wasn't remotely scientific, but it actually seemed to be worse than with room air.
 
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Joined
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Note on plastics. Prescription bottles are not air tight. The plastic bottles that the pharmacy receives the medication in IS airtight per USP definition. I cannot say about other plastics but I am sure it varies considerably with intended usage.

Another choice for glass at no cost is pickle jars and similar product bottles with built in seal.
 
Joined
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Hobby Lobby sells glass jars for various crafty things. I put acetone in a glass jar but the vapors softened the rubber seal round the edge of the lid. I would be cautious about putting finishes in plastic containers.
 
Joined
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I also use the stoploss bags with good success. I also have a can of gel poly - dont think I’ll squeeze it into a stoploss bag. For it I use propane - I keep a small tank propane torch and just blow some in on top of the finish - works the same as bloxygen. That gel can is 2 yrs old and just fine.
 
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Google search "bottled argon gas". Here's one hit, a 2lb, 500psi/34L cylinder from Grainger for the same price as about 3 cans of Bloxygen. Should prove to be a lifetime supply of finish container preserver.
https://www.grainger.com/product/GASCO-Argon-Calibration-Gas-23YN80
For about $36 they have a 240psi/17L version, too.

Now, where is the dispensing nozzle?
(EDIT) I called Grainger, this is the regulator/release valve for this type of bottle. You will need some tubing to go on that barb fitting. Not cheap, about $120.
https://www.grainger.com/product/GASCO-Gas-Regulator-30AA05?searchQuery=30aa05&searchBar=true

Well, it was a thought. Research at your discretion.
 
Last edited:
Joined
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I also use the stoploss bags with good success. I also have a can of gel poly - dont think I’ll squeeze it into a stoploss bag. For it I use propane - I keep a small tank propane torch and just blow some in on top of the finish - works the same as bloxygen. That gel can is 2 yrs old and just fine.

I, too, use a gel varnish (very thick). That is a really interesting idea which I'll have to try when the current can of Bloxygen runs out.
 
Joined
Nov 22, 2009
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Midland, MI
I was at Woodcraft last week and saw these on the shelf, solvent-proof plastic 3oz jars with screw lids made for the finish spray system for they are sold. Perfect! 6 in a package and they won't break in a shop mishap. The 3oz volume dimension is about 2"x2".

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/...ImpLu2KnM7QIVUdbACh363ggWEAQYASABEgLhv_D_BwE#

Nice find! I see that they are also available on Amazon for those of us who don't have a Woodcraft nearby.

I'm a fan of the StopLoss bags and use them to store most of my finishes. It's possible to mix up finishes right in the bag. My example is sanding sealer. I use Zinsser SealCoat but cut it 50% with denatured alcohol. I fill the bag about half full of SealCoat then top it off with DNA. You can use a scale if you're concerned about accuracy. Seems like you could do the same thing for mixing up oil/varnish/mineral spirits blends if that's what you are doing.

The bags work really well to keep finishes fresh. I just used some Waterlox that I loaded in a bag about 18 months ago. There was a little crusting around the cap, but the finish is fresh and wet out and cured fine. Added bonus: I find the StopLoss bags to be more convenient for dispensing the finish than the cans that Waterlox or MinWax Antique Oil come in.

I used Bloxygen for a while but got away from it because I had trouble knowing how much to use and it seemed expensive. Since then I've found a good FAQs page from the Bloxygen folks: http://www.bloxygen.com/frequently-asked-questions.html

They state that a new can will deliver 150 seconds of spray. To inert a quart container, they recommend a 2 second blast, assuming the container is half full. If it's fuller, shorter time will work; if emptier, you need a longer blast.
 
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