Of all these finishes which wood you put on a pair of maple Burl salt and pepper mills that are for a gift on Sunday? 
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Finishing HELP
- Thread starter Glenn Lefley
- Start date
Can’t see it he finishes in photo quality. But if you have GF WTF I’d use that, keeps maple pretty white, durable, and dries fast. You can put 6coats on this evening (every 5-10 mins) and will be ready to gift Sunday.
Osmo.
Glenn, I'd be inclined to go with the Osmo PolyX-Oil. You can put on two coats in one day if you start early, and you will be able to handle it the next day. Proviso , though, it won't be fully cured for a couple of weeks and may have a faint, but not unpleasant odor until it is fully cured.
Well, since you have the Wood Turner's Finish, it is faster.
I do have a heated dry room, the Osmo poly x , can you buff it out with caranuba wax when it’s dry! I noticed one of the ingredients in it is that wax.
I also have Osmo poly x 6125 which dries in 4 hours for hardwood floors, but have never used it.
The Osmo PolyX that I have is satin, which is the sheen I prefer. You are correct that it is mixture of hardwaxes (such as carnuba) and curing oils. So I supose you could apply more wax, but I'm not sure whether there would be any benefit.
The Osmo will dry enough to handle in several hours, but like a lot of finishes the full cure will take longer.
I think one could reasonably give a handmade gift, that is ready to be handled, but needs a few weeks before being put to use, but that's your call.
The Osmo will dry enough to handle in several hours, but like a lot of finishes the full cure will take longer.
I think one could reasonably give a handmade gift, that is ready to be handled, but needs a few weeks before being put to use, but that's your call.
Do you buff it out when dry?
Yes. Basically wipe it on, then re-spread it, then hand buff it. But here are the instructions I found for using this material on small items.
http://www.raincoastalternatives.com/files/3613/1810/6146/3054Furniturev2.1_HOW_TO.pdf
Also this video.
View: https://youtu.be/O7cgv0l4k8U
If you don't end up using it for this project, do try some on a test piece when you have the time, just to see how it works.
http://www.raincoastalternatives.com/files/3613/1810/6146/3054Furniturev2.1_HOW_TO.pdf
Also this video.
If you don't end up using it for this project, do try some on a test piece when you have the time, just to see how it works.
Here is what the finish looks like on the right compared to my regular polyurethane on the left.
These are two pieces of walnut from the same board. The PU is a nice finish, and the Bartley Gel is even easier to apply than the Osmo, but the later gives a finish that has greater luster and can be easily reapplied if the surface becomes worn or damaged.
These are two pieces of walnut from the same board. The PU is a nice finish, and the Bartley Gel is even easier to apply than the Osmo, but the later gives a finish that has greater luster and can be easily reapplied if the surface becomes worn or damaged.
I went with the Osmo satin. Second coat in morning. Heading to lordco automotive Store am to see if they have white pads. I do have the marron ones.
Was surface prep the same? # of coats? Are both thoroughly dry? My gel poly looks more like the Rt sample. I would like to try some of these hard wax oils but they are damn expensive to try and then leave sitting on the shelf. What are the benefits of this finish to you?
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Surface prep was the same. I don't recall now but they would have been sanded to either P600 or P1200.
The samples were cured and ready to handle (i.e. overnight), but hadn't been sitting for a month when photographed. They have been laying around the bench now for more than that and haven't changed as far as I can tell.
It is expensive stuff, but a little goes a long way. I suggested it to Glenn because he had some already. But if you want to try it, Lee Valley sells a half pint can for $18 US (with shipping it was $25 to my door). This will do multiple handheld size pieces.
As to benefits, it's the additional luster over PU. It seems to bring out the grain better. But frankly, although it is super easy to apply, the Bartley is easier, and this already gives me a very nice finish.
The samples were cured and ready to handle (i.e. overnight), but hadn't been sitting for a month when photographed. They have been laying around the bench now for more than that and haven't changed as far as I can tell.
It is expensive stuff, but a little goes a long way. I suggested it to Glenn because he had some already. But if you want to try it, Lee Valley sells a half pint can for $18 US (with shipping it was $25 to my door). This will do multiple handheld size pieces.
As to benefits, it's the additional luster over PU. It seems to bring out the grain better. But frankly, although it is super easy to apply, the Bartley is easier, and this already gives me a very nice finish.
I was curious about these Osmo products, about what is in them. Their Canadian website makes it easier to find that info than the US site, but here's a copy/paste of the general ingredients in the PolyX. I'm guessing silica is added in an effort to make it semi-gloss, to scatter light reflections so it's not so shiny/glossy.
"INGREDIENTS
Solid ingredients: Based on natural vegetable oils and waxes (sunflower-oil, soybean-oil, thistle-oil, carnauba wax, candelilla wax), silica, siccatives (drying agents). Naphtha (petroleum), hydrotreated heavy (disaroma-
tized, benzenefree). Complies with Environment Canada VOC regulations (SOR/2009-264). Detailed declaration of ingredients available upon request."
So their plant-based oils are possibly polymerized oils (maybe, but they are depending on drying/curing agents as well) from more common agricultural crops vs. flax/linseed, or Asian-based tung. I can't speak to the performance differences between these different plant-based oils, but I'm guessing there are differences in the economics of their manufacturing. Not surprising, most common brand varnishes are likely based on these same types of common agricultural plant oils vs. more expensive curing oils. That's not good or bad, just different.
Link to PolyX-
https://osmo.ca/product/polyx-oil/
At any product link scroll to the bottom of the page and find some PDF documents, including Product Information to get a general list of the ingredients. There are SDS/MSDS sheets as well. Their USA site has this, too, but you have to dig farther for it, at the Canadian website it's right there to see.
Huh, I may have to consider one of these products, give it a try.
Steve.
"INGREDIENTS
Solid ingredients: Based on natural vegetable oils and waxes (sunflower-oil, soybean-oil, thistle-oil, carnauba wax, candelilla wax), silica, siccatives (drying agents). Naphtha (petroleum), hydrotreated heavy (disaroma-
tized, benzenefree). Complies with Environment Canada VOC regulations (SOR/2009-264). Detailed declaration of ingredients available upon request."
So their plant-based oils are possibly polymerized oils (maybe, but they are depending on drying/curing agents as well) from more common agricultural crops vs. flax/linseed, or Asian-based tung. I can't speak to the performance differences between these different plant-based oils, but I'm guessing there are differences in the economics of their manufacturing. Not surprising, most common brand varnishes are likely based on these same types of common agricultural plant oils vs. more expensive curing oils. That's not good or bad, just different.
Link to PolyX-
https://osmo.ca/product/polyx-oil/
At any product link scroll to the bottom of the page and find some PDF documents, including Product Information to get a general list of the ingredients. There are SDS/MSDS sheets as well. Their USA site has this, too, but you have to dig farther for it, at the Canadian website it's right there to see.
Huh, I may have to consider one of these products, give it a try.
Steve.
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Mark, this is extremely helpful. Thank you.
What would the appearance difference be if the poly side were also treated with a hard wax and buffed? (Was the Osmo buffed?)
People keep saying it’s expensive. But after reading a lot it’s actually cheap. You use a little for each application. It is not 50 or 70 percent thinners that evaporate. It’s all oils. You use a few drops and rub in. I forgot when I first got it I finished a bowl with it. I rub it in, being impatient I looked at it 30 minutes later and did not like the finish. I went back and got thus bowl out last night. It is gorgeous. Like Marks picture above after it cured. Might be my new go to finish! And it seems like it’s very easy to renew after watching posted video above.
I will post my pictures when it’s dry tonight. It’s for a birthday gift tommorrow! I was so going to hit it with 4 coats of lacquer as I’m a painter and my sprayer is full. But I was a little put off using that as it was a food item. Pepper and salt mills.
I don't know. I never do more than vigorously hand buff as the final step in application of either product. Once they have initial cured I don't do more.
This earlier thread may be of interest, too.
https://aawforum.org/community/index.php?threads/osmo.13294/#post-167168
https://aawforum.org/community/index.php?threads/osmo.13294/#post-167168
I wasn’t complaining about the $ to use the hardwax oil stuff, but rather the $ to just try it. ~$25 for a 1/2 pint to just try some on a sample piece of wood, and the can sit on a shelf unused, is pretty expensive in my book.
I am surprised Mark focused only on application and the end results with the finish, and did not mention fewer voc’s/fumes, green product etc. Most of the reviews I’ve read were bent toward the “greener” aspect of these finishes. While I dont want earth wasted by pollution the little bit I contribute with finishing is irrelevant, and dealing with fumes is not a problem for me. I just have a hard time with seeing the benefit and value of these no/low voc finishes, at current pricing, not to mention the poor availability (none within hours of me). I would like to experiment but I have low expectations they would actually replace my current finishes, so the cost becomes a barrier for me.
I am surprised Mark focused only on application and the end results with the finish, and did not mention fewer voc’s/fumes, green product etc. Most of the reviews I’ve read were bent toward the “greener” aspect of these finishes. While I dont want earth wasted by pollution the little bit I contribute with finishing is irrelevant, and dealing with fumes is not a problem for me. I just have a hard time with seeing the benefit and value of these no/low voc finishes, at current pricing, not to mention the poor availability (none within hours of me). I would like to experiment but I have low expectations they would actually replace my current finishes, so the cost becomes a barrier for me.
So @Glenn Lefley , it's Sunday. How did it come out, and what did you end up doing?
I agree, Doug, regardless of how good the product may be, it's price is exorbitant relative to what is in it. Common agricultural vegitable oils, readily available waxes, silicate acting as sheen flattening agents in some of the products, siccatives (metallic salts used as drying agents, https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oil_drying_agent), naphtha in some products (except PolyX Pure) and undisclosed water repellant additives. These ingredients are listed in the product information section of the technical documents.
What really makes it different from other brush-on and wipe-on varnishes (and Osmo is a varnish), with possible exception of gels that I've not researched, is the very low VOCs (evaporative ingredients such as solvents), typically <50. But can its retail price be defended when compared to other products? (Compared to high solvent products like Watco and Minwax Wiping Poly, maybe.) Well, that will be a decision made by those who pay to play.
For the purpose of finishing turnings (not flooring or architectural work), and the majority of the turnings we make are decorative or food contact in nature, there are VOC-free options that also have no metallic salts and that are food safe. Tried & True makes three options for us, and they retail for about $25/pint, less than $40/qt, and in gallons if needed. https://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/products/ Like Osmo, a very little goes a long way, and like Osmo it does not yellow the wood color as much as some other products.
I'm going to pass on the Osmo products, it's price is not justified in my mind. It sounds like a great product but for me it costs too much.
Steve.
What really makes it different from other brush-on and wipe-on varnishes (and Osmo is a varnish), with possible exception of gels that I've not researched, is the very low VOCs (evaporative ingredients such as solvents), typically <50. But can its retail price be defended when compared to other products? (Compared to high solvent products like Watco and Minwax Wiping Poly, maybe.) Well, that will be a decision made by those who pay to play.
For the purpose of finishing turnings (not flooring or architectural work), and the majority of the turnings we make are decorative or food contact in nature, there are VOC-free options that also have no metallic salts and that are food safe. Tried & True makes three options for us, and they retail for about $25/pint, less than $40/qt, and in gallons if needed. https://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/products/ Like Osmo, a very little goes a long way, and like Osmo it does not yellow the wood color as much as some other products.
I'm going to pass on the Osmo products, it's price is not justified in my mind. It sounds like a great product but for me it costs too much.
Steve.
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Here they are! Osmo, 3 coats, with white pad! They feel like glass, like a piano finish. Picture does not near do it justify. Also had it in a dry room all night. Filtered air flow at 85 f.
Attachments
Hey, those came out great! I particularly like the form. Looks like the coating really brought out that lovely grain. Did you do any Beal work?
Yes actually buffed them after this picture with a bit of microcrystalline wax before gift wrapping. The finish is one I will use a lot more often. Really gorgeous natural finish. Nothing like a lacquer finish. And I’m a painter who sprays lacquer all the time. Truly feels like a highly polished piano finish. Doesn’t compare to anything else. Brings out wood beautifully. It was perfect for these mills. Thanks for recommendation, Mark.
I guess I am questioning my definitions of "satin" and "semi-gloss" Glen, your photo of the peppermills, and your description of "piano like finish" looks like semi-gloss to me. As a reference, when I put on pure walnut oil or pure tung oil on a piece, I call that a matte finish. If I Beall buff these, it improves the shine to semi-gloss. Maybe you guys would call that satin. I would call "high gloss" something with an appreciable film thickness, either lacquer or water-base poly or oil base poly that is buffed. Glenn it would be great if you can provide before- and after-buffing photos of the Osmo. I also note that Osmo offers both satin and gloss versions of the PolyX
Sorry , when I said piano like finish I’m talking about as if you where blind and you run your hand over a piano top then the peppermills they feel exactly the same. I was Not talking about the gloss. Sorry about any confusion. It is Matte for sure.
rereading my post I did say it truly FEELS like a piano type finish.
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Just my opinion, but I can't tell a difference between semi-gloss and satin sheens once they are out of the can and applied. Matte for me is the same as flat and gloss is anything very glaringly shiny (pun intended), regardless of apparent film thickness. Others are certainly more discerning, but for me it's gloss, satin or flat.
Glenn commented on the feel of the pepermill's surface. It's certainly been my experience that for a given lower level of sanding prep the Osmo (perhaps due to its wax content) delivers a surface that feels smoother. (But my observation has also been that for higher levels of sanding prep this effect diminishes and with hyper-sanding is negligable).