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Thread cutting jigs

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There is no better thread cutting jig than the Baxter Thread Cutting Jig made by Best Wood Tools. It is not cheap but you get what you pay for and it is well made and works flawlessly. There are many threads available and it is made for many different sized lathes. You can put a thread on almost any wood available. You can read a review of the jig in More Woodturning Magazine (an online magazine). I will guarantee you that if you purchase something from Best Wood Tools you are getting the best tool available.
 

john lucas

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Ditto what Bill said. It is the most expensive but its the difference between driving a Mercedes and driving a Hyundai. They both get you there but it's a pleasure to use the Baxter threader. I also have one of the ChefwareKIts threaders. It works and is a lot less expensive. The one advantage of the Chefware kits threader is it goes in the tool post so will fit any lathe with that size tool post. I have used when I travel because of that feature. I have my Baxter threader set up on a home made mock up of a lather that uses my router as the headstock. This way I can instantly go from either one of my lathes to the threader and not change a thing. I use it when I travel and can drive. It's far to heavy to take on the plane. Of course if I fly and need to cut threads I just take better wood and hand chase them. I would take a photo of my Chefware kits jig but they have upgraded it from mine so they won't look the same. They did improve it based on my suggestions. I wrote their instruction manual but they may have improved that by now.
 

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Our club demoed Simon Hope’s threading jig. The presenter seemed to like it more than others, but that was based on his research not trial. It is around $250 I believe.
 
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I haven't played with the Baxter jig, but do have an old Bonnie Klein jig. Pretty good set up, but she doesn't make them any more. The thing I liked about her set up was that you made waste blocks to mount the boxes on rather than using a chuck, which I have seen on some set ups. Probably need to do a video on that too...

robo hippy
 
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Thoughts on threaded lid boxes.....my opinions. And I'd like to get some feedback on this.

Nothing worse than picking up a threaded box and having to turn the lid 5 or more turns to get it off.

60 degree threads are a poor choice, you have cross grain coming to a peak at the thread crests, an invitation to chipping.

Think about threaded lids you come into contact with on a daily basis, look in your refrigerator. Most of the screw lids you'll find there are very coarse threads, usually with a single turn or less to remove the lid. It'd drive you crazy if those lids took multiple turns to remove. Those containers use bottle threads.

My thought is a threading jig to make the quick acting bottle threads. The first issue is you need a special cutter not as easily sourced as the standard 60 degree type. The other issue is the fast lead of the jig's pitch screw. Both issues that could be worked out though.

I did a little informal family survey (women only) asking whether they'd prefer a threaded lid jewelry box with a lid that came off as quickly as a food container lid rather than multiple turns. All said yes to quick. Second question was how many turns do they recall it takes to get the mayonnaise jar lid off. Several turns was the answer, but actually it's less than one.
 

hockenbery

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@Doug Rasmussen I saw Alan Batty cut a one turn thread with a spindle gouge.
Absolutely amazing. Low tech too but high skill.

I agree that lots of threads makes for slow opening with no offsetting benefit.

One issue with hand chasing threads is it is easy to learn fine with threads in 16-18 range.
Hard to learn coarse threads because of the double threading issues if you don’t have the rhythm.
Finer threads more turns per thread inch.
 
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john lucas

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I try to leave flat tops on my threads. If I do get pointed peaks I sand them off. I'd like to see a threader that makes ACME threads in wood. that would be a lot stronger although they might be too thick. Just make your boxes out of green wood. Then all you have to do is twist the lid about 90 degrees and it will lock. I have one now that I thought was dry wood. It's a beautiful fit with no slop at all and only gently pressure to remove the lid. Move it 90 degrees and it locks on very nicely.
 

Emiliano Achaval

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Anybody can do threads with a jig, on any wood. For what I have seen on my demos, the biggest attraction to do hand chased threads is the price. You can buy used chasers on EBay England for just a few dollars. I leave most of my threads, after selling lots of boxes, no one has complained about the amount of turns. Only turners notice that, sort of us sticking our finger inside a hollow form. A big % of my boxes are for "medicinal" purposes. The state of Hawaii has now made pakalolo legal, and has authorized an official dealer on each island. People want to keep their medicine fresh, and the lid has to be good and secure...
 
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Who'd thunk that someone would complain that a box had too many threads. I have never had a complaint about the number of threads. Learn something new every day.
 
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Our club has just brought the Simon Hope threading jig and we had a demo by Simon Hope it appeared to be a very simple process to use but then most demonstraters can do that whatever they are showing.
i had the chance to handle the items that the jig produced threads on and they all where a nive crisp finish he also left the tops of the treads with a small flat as he pointed out that it is the week point of any thread.
Having said all that I have just brought a hand threading set as stated by Emiliano because of price and I have always wanted to be able to produce them by hand
 

john lucas

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I've made several of my chasers and have a set I purchased at the flea mkt that goes down to 11tpi. Gotta move fast with that one. I have quite a few with only one cutter. I was at a flea mkt and a guy what 5 or 6 tables full of tools, mostly cheap crap like screw drivers and sockets. He had a cute dog and my dog wanted to meet so we got to talking. while I was standing there I saw a thread chaser. As we talked I saw another one, and then another one. found 11 cutters. Paid 50 cents each for them. Out of the eleven there were only 3 sets so eventually I will take the time to make the mates.
I'm in the don't like to turn the lid a million times to get it off category. I typically try to leave just a few threads if possible but sometimes I get carried away.
 
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Originally they were called 'pill' boxes. For a while we called them 'stash' boxes. Then 'curio' boxes, and now we can go back to stash boxes. Pill box does imply 'medicinal'....

Hey Emeliano, If you bring your thread chasers, I will have some Mountain Mahogany with me which as Allen Batty said, 'it is the only North American wood suitable for thread chasing...

robo hippy
 
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This is an old thread that I would like to resurrect to see if any opinions have changed in regard to threading jigs. I've been hand chasing but dragging my feet on buying a jig. I know that Chefware Kits has made some relatively recent improvements to their system based on input from the turning community. How did they do?
 

john lucas

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The newer Chefware kits jig is pretty nice. I worked with them when it was being developed and made some suggestions. He has made more improvements since then. It cuts a good thread and is easy to use. I still prefer my Baxter threader but it's kind of like driving a Mercedes vs Ford. They both get you there but one is just a lot nicer to use. I do find the Baxter more accurate when cutting 20TPI which is absolutely necessary on that size thread. For 16 and course for all practical purposes probably not much difference.
 
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I have a Chefware Kits jig that is one click back from their current model. As I understand it, their current one has some nice enhancements over the version I have (e.g. convertible to a sphere jig, bigger handwheels, etc.). I found a Youtube video by Paul Judkins to be an immense help in setting my jig up. I stick with 16tpi, and have been absolutely satisfied with the results.
 
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About 6 or 7 years ago one of our club members bought a Baxter jig and then tried to demo it however the anti backlash system they had at the time was so stiff you could barely turn it so he loosened it some then the work piece vibrated causing a poor rough thread so they must have improved that aspect of it. I have been playing around with machine threading since about 1990 when someone asked it I could cut a 2 1/2" 2 bench vise screw both male and female, which I successfully accomplished. Now after several different setups I use my old LeBlond engine lathe with the cutter driven by a small router mounted to the cross slide. The hand chasing or Klein style jigs are affordable, but they have limitations like to fine threads and the limited size of the project as in think what would happen if you had a 12" long vessel hanging off that jig.
The thread needs to be course to allow a clearance fit that will accomodate seasonal expansion and contraction without jamming or disengaging.
The simple fix for too many threads is don't cut too many or if you need lots for chasing you can go back and turn away the excess.
 
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Out of all of the threading jigs I have used over the years the Baxter threading jigs stand out in quality, design and ease of use. They are quick to set up and accurate when fit testing and remounting for final finish thread cuts. Depending on how much threading you intend on doing may determine your needs, the other power threading jigs will do the job just fine.
 

Emiliano Achaval

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Originally they were called 'pill' boxes. For a while we called them 'stash' boxes. Then 'curio' boxes, and now we can go back to stash boxes. Pill box does imply 'medicinal'....

Hey Emeliano, If you bring your thread chasers, I will have some Mountain Mahogany with me which as Allen Batty said, 'it is the only North American wood suitable for thread chasing...

robo hippy
You just reminded me about that great gift you gave me! I have to turn something with it. It is by now acclimated to Maui, LOL
 
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All:
Great helpful info...thanks for the input. Of course I plan on threading the usual stash/curio/pill/stash boxes (nothing like a bit of history to flavor the soup, Robo) but I would also like to thread some 12+ inch urns. Am I to understand that 16 tpi might be the utility fix here...or do I also need to buy a courser thread maybe in addition to the 16?
 
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All:
Great helpful info...thanks for the input. Of course I plan on threading the usual stash/curio/pill/stash boxes (nothing like a bit of history to flavor the soup, Robo) but I would also like to thread some 12+ inch urns. Am I to understand that 16 tpi might be the utility fix here...or do I also need to buy a courser thread maybe in addition to the 16?
The finer the thread the more precision necessary, however for the most part wood is not a precision material. The course thread say 11tpi if you can get it would be best and don't even buy the 16tpi.
 
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If your threading jig uses different threaded bushings for the spindle, you can usually get a coarser pitch thread bushing and spindle for the jig.
I have a 4 TPI for one of my threading jigs, 8,10,12 are common thread pitches you just need a threaded rod (spindle) that will fit through the opening of your jig.
Adapting your face plate or chuck is the concern, they do make a number of threaded bushings and adapters that will adapt you face plate thread or chuck mounting
thread to your spindle thread. 1" by 8 TPI is a common thread size for face plates and chucks if you fit that size of threaded rod (spindle) through your jig you can
easily mount your face plate or chuck.
 
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For me, the difference in how fine or coarse your threads are, as in 16 tpi or 8 to 10 tpi is how far you need to go to time the threads, which means how much of the shoulder you have to remove to get the grain to line up. With 16 tpi, that is 1/16 of an inch, which is fairly minimal. With 8 tpi, that goes to 1/8 inch which may be enough to require you to cut the threads farther down as well as adjusting the shoulder.

Emiliano, I had to stop and think, was that some Mountain Mahogany???

robo hippy
 

RichColvin

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You know, for the cost of one of the high end models, you could put together an MDF rose engine lathe, and get all the threading options you’d want + a whole lot more!
 
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For me, the difference in how fine or coarse your threads are, as in 16 tpi or 8 to 10 tpi is how far you need to go to time the threads, which means how much of the shoulder you have to remove to get the grain to line up. With 16 tpi, that is 1/16 of an inch, which is fairly minimal. With 8 tpi, that goes to 1/8 inch which may be enough to require you to cut the threads farther down as well as adjusting the shoulder.

Emiliano, I had to stop and think, was that some Mountain Mahogany???

robo hippy
Removing material to get the grain to line up on average would be 1/2 the distance of one thread, however getting the grain lined up doesn't always stay lined up due to that nasty seasonal change.
 
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You know, for the cost of one of the high end models, you could put together an MDF rose engine lathe, and get all the threading options you’d want + a whole lot more!
Rich: Thanks. I've watched your YouTube video 3 times now and I truly admire what you have done there. The amount of thought and design is tremendously impressive. However, I think (for me) I'd have to finish out my PhD before even beginning to build one of these. Fascinating to think about but way way beyond my current skill set to fabricate of one of these interesting machines.
 
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Don is right seasonal changes affect the lid alignment.
Thanks John but I have thought of another consideration for alignment and that is the fine pitch thread will have a wider range when tightening. Example: say you have an 8 pitch (1/8" per turn) when closing the distance between initial contact and tight may be only 1 degree of turn, where as a 16 pitch would have a wider range and be more susceptible to over tightening.
 
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You know, for the cost of one of the high end models, you could put together an MDF rose engine lathe, and get all the threading options you’d want + a whole lot more!

Rich, assuming a basic MDF rose engine lathe, how is threading done? The "whole lot more" I can visualize, not the threading though.
 

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Rich: Thanks. I've watched your YouTube video 3 times now and I truly admire what you have done there. The amount of thought and design is tremendously impressive. However, I think (for me) I'd have to finish out my PhD before even beginning to build one of these. Fascinating to think about but way way beyond my current skill set to fabricate of one of these interesting machines.

Donovan,

I will soon publishing all the directions for the MDF rose engine lathe 2.0. They will be instructions that one with basic woodworking skills can use to complete. So, you'll be able to make one if you want. (Or buy the kit with the wood pre-cut, like an Ikea kit.)

Rich
 

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Rich, assuming a basic MDF rose engine lathe, how is threading done? The "whole lot more" I can visualize, not the threading though.

Doug,

There are two ways this can be done:
  1. Using the capabilities of pumping on the spindle, threads with the desired TPI are on the spindle shaft and a mating piece is affixed to the headstock. As the spindle rotates, it advances forward (or backward) whilst a cutter is spun in a drilling frame. I saw this two years ago and it worked like a charm.
  2. The other option is to use the controls we have now which uses a stepper motor to synchronize the motion on the Z axis with the rotation of the spindle. This can be easily used for threading, or cutting helices.
Rich
 
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Rich, thanks for the explanation.

When you mentioned "MDF" I was assuming a very basic rose engine like Jon Magill's kit which I don't believe could do the threading operations easily.

My rose engine was a hybrid, part CNC and part conventional rose engine, that one could have done threading easily. Needless to say, it wasn't well received by the traditional rose engine folks back around 2000. After attending the Seattle area OT symposium (2005?) I pretty much lost interest in ornamental turning.

On edit: Rich, I went to the website OTBOK.info. Jon Magill is shown talking about "organic" shapes at the 2018 Seattle meet. That's where CNC came in on my rose engine, it could do most any shape.
 
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RichColvin

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Rich, thanks for the explanation.

When you mentioned "MDF" I was assuming a very basic rose engine like Jon Magill's kit which I don't believe could do the threading operations easily.

My rose engine was a hybrid, part CNC and part conventional rose engine, that one could have done threading easily. Needless to say, it wasn't well received by the traditional rose engine folks back around 2000. After attending the Seattle area OT symposium (2005?) I pretty much lost interest in ornamental turning.

On edit: Rich, I went to the website OTBOK.info. Jon Magill is shown talking about "organic" shapes at the 2018 Seattle meet. That's where CNC came in on my rose engine, it could do most any shape.

Doug,

Yes, I'm mentioning MDF in regards to what Jon Magill pioneered. He's passed the mantle on to me, and I'm working with Jack Zimmel to come out with version 2.0. Call it the son of Jon's work.


I've heard others say that if they didn't use a completely mechanical machine, that they were looked down on. I am not into using full CNC for ornamental turning, but not because I have a problem with anyone using that approach. I just want to do things differently.

I've seen the work by Bill Ooms and Dewey Garrett, both of whom are using CNC to make their art. What they make is unbelievably beautiful.

So, if what you are doing makes you happy, please don't stop.

Kind regards,
Rich
 

RichColvin

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Any chance that the directions will include "international" (= metric) measurements?

Lars,

I am one of those heretics who prefers working in metric over imperial; however, in continuing the work that Jon pioneered, I’m staying with imperial measurements. Well, for the most part. Some things are metric as they must be due to the part’s measurements.

But, when we get the new docs ready, I’ll be happy to share them with you for making a metric version.

Kind regards,
Rich
 
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Re the cnc rose engine lathe thread cutting: The CNC machine tool industry has a tool called a thread mill and it is used with the part stationary and the thread cut by manipulating the X Y & Z axiss so the question is are the threads cut that way or are you adding a rotary axis to drive the work piece into the cutter?
 
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