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Seeking advice on processing large white oak bowl blanks

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Charlie, tell me more about the barrel method. Is it necessary that it be cardboard or will plastic do? Is plastic too airtight? Does the oak get moldy? Do you open it at all before several months? Move the wood? I’m intrigued. Thanks!
 
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just cut into blanks load.....i have always used the cardboard barrels with metal ends....if blank has sapwood it most likely will spalt but there is no mold.....blanks may or not feel moist.....i have opened and added wood.....no 2nd turning for me but bowls may move so up to u......i wood give blanks at least 3 months before turning........what do u pay for new bowl gaurge compared to tool for no crack oak...
 

hockenbery

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alas, it is already showing some small cracks that I imagine will only grow.

looks like a nice bowl..

1. What are you doing to slow the drying.
Unless the bottom is thicker than the rim ( can’t judge from the photo) you would be able to dry this bowl successfully close to 100% of the time in paper bags or a large cardboard box.
This assume no pre-existing cracks and you don’t let it dry out on the lathe.
Sanding on the lathe will dry it...

2. Another characteristic of bowls turned with the bottom to center of the tree is that the rims tend to warp sort of wavy which I find much more pleasing than the sharp peaks at the end grain sides of bowls turned with bottom to the bark side.
 
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time is important with oak....u need to leave in log or if cut in blanks put in barrel day tree cut down

Lot of fireplace woodhaulers will cut tree down then section tree into 18 inch sections.....leave the wood til they get a chance.....much easier to split that way as the sections are already cracking

to cut down tree.....make blanks.....rough turn all same day for large amount of oak is a long day.....

Usually I would find the tree cutters (lot of oak around here) get one or two 8 to 10 inch sections of log.....take home.....split end grain in at least 8 in wide sections.....put in barrels......i mostly turned end grain hollow forms after blanks in barrel for at least 3 months
 
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turning end grain one quadrant would look like this20200815_151014-1.jpg
 
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Thanks for all the feedback. I’m just in from rough turning a few more pieces. There had been a few end checks, but I turned well past them. They are now completely coated with anchor seal, and buried in shavings in paper bags. I try to keep bottoms about the same thickness as sides, all roughly 10% or a bit more of finished diameter. I’ve also tried to avoid leaving sharp edges on the rough turned bowls. I’ve found a nearby dealer in barrels, and will give a call tomorrow to see what they charge for fiber 55 gallon drums.
 
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Charlie, I’m about to leave to pick up a barrel at a local company I found on Craigslist. Thanks for the suggestion. Sounds like it will be $10!
 
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Get 2 @ that price
 
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870EE341-5ED5-462D-B7B3-94C3D40C1487.jpeg Too late today, but it is close enough that I could easily go back.
Now I’ve got a dumb question. Sort of accounting: LIFO vs. FIFO (if I remember my college accounting class - I was a forestry major, so not really paying attention). As I fill this, the earliest done bowls will be at the bottom. When I am ready to use one, do I unload the entire barrel to get to the bottom? Just leave them all in there for 3-6 months after the last went in? Rotate the stock periodically? How do you handle it?
 
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Let me guess what you’ll suggest Charlie. Get six barrels and use one for each month. In the seventh month empty the first, turn the bowls and start over. Only problem is, I don’t have any place to store more than a couple of them.
 
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20200817_132906-1.jpg when looking for next piece I was looking for particular type of wood....yes I put all kinds of wood in it....unload til I got that piece....just tape inventory of what & when....saved on anchoseal.....ya can't buy anchorseal for $10
 
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Yes I still used anchorseal ....usually when got maple or Bradford pear got more than wanted to put in barrels and they are not prone to cracking with when sealed in shade.....mainly oak cherry got some plum once...watch out for insects in plum
 
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Mike, good idea, but no, only the top comes off. I’ve started an inventory sheet on the top of the barrel with date, species and size. So the top of the inventory is, for the moment, the bottom of the barrel. We’ll see how that works over time. Maybe I should put an identifier on each blank. The blanks are, of course also labeled with species and date. All in the barrel anchor sealed. Oak, locust and mulberry.
 
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I never used anchorseal in barrel....wanted wood to sweat with release of moisture in moisture rich environment.....locust sharpen your tools
 
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U could take one oak blank cut anchorsealed edges off....see how the 2 different style do over 3 months
 
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I never turned something put it in....just blanks.....u will get more wood....it just somehow finds u......i turned to finish thickness put in wooden chest of drawers for 5 or 6 days....JJ says keep air flow off it.....hf will hold their shape
 
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White oak is gonna move and I always get cracks when I try twice turn. If I do try that will finish turn within two weeks and watch it move. Still may get some cracks but CA usually will help if you catch them early.

I have had an idea after the first center cut platter really warped like a waffle . I used cauls to clamp it down and brought a lot of it back near flat. But noticed today it has waffled some again. I had a second piece from the other side of the pith so I turned it to finish and put it in cauls right away and so far after about five weeks is looking good except a little bump warped up on the rim.For those who do not know what cauls are they are pieces of flat stock with a mild crest in the middle and they are clamped on each side of a panel to keep the center glue joint even. Had to add some spacers.platter cauls.JPG
 
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