Howard's Feed and Wax

[Donovan Bailey]

I see quite a few people using Howard's Feed and Wax as a finish. I'm curious to know your collective opinions on the suitability of it as a finish. Does it hold-up over time?

 

[Richard Coers]

Any finish should be chosen based on usage. If it just sits on a shelf is much different than being used in the kitchen. Could you narrow down what you want to put the finish on?

 

[Donovan Bailey]

Any finish should be chosen based on usage. If it just sits on a shelf is much different than being used in the kitchen. Could you narrow down what you want to put the finish on?

Sure...bowls, boxes, urns...the full scope of vessels that we normally turn.

 

[Richard Coers]

I don't trust any finish that tells me it "Feeds" the wood. According to their MSDS sheet, it can actually be as high as 100% petroleum distillates. Or as low as 1% paraffin, 1% orange oil, 1% beeswax, and 1% carnauba wax. So you are feeding it thinner. That is not a finish. https://www.howardproducts.com/files/HOW-100_Feed-N-Wax.pdf

 

[Emiliano Achaval]

I see quite a few people using Howard's Feed and Wax as a finish. I'm curious to know your collective opinions on the suitability of it as a finish. Does it hold-up over time?

I use it as a lubricant when I chase threads. As a finish I do not like it, it doesn't penetrate and cured like Danish oil or Mahoney's oil.

 

[Doug Freeman]

I dont use any “turner’s finish”. Been turning for ~ 8 yrs, but been finishing wood for 30+. Favorites for turned items are nc lacquer for hi gloss fully filled, or plain oil based poly thinned 1:1 and applied like a danish oil. Also use CA glue on small stuff.

 

[Donovan Bailey]

I dont use any “turner’s finish”. Been turning for ~ 8 yrs, but been finishing wood for 30+. Favorites for turned items are nc lacquer for hi gloss fully filled, or plain oil based poly thinned 1:1 and applied like a danish oil. Also use CA glue on small stuff.

Appreciate the interesting input, Doug, and I'd sure appreciate a little bit more. What do you mean when you say "fully filled?" Also, how do you apply the nc lacquer (spray, brush, etc.)?

 

[Donovan Bailey]

I use it as a lubricant when I chase threads. As a finish I do not like it, it doesn't penetrate and cured like Danish oil or Mahoney's oil.

Emiliano:
While I'm thinking of it...what is your go-to finish for your beautiful urns?

 

[egsiegel]

I don't trust any finish that tells me it "Feeds" the wood. According to their MSDS sheet, it can actually be as high as 100% petroleum distillates. Or as low as 1% paraffin, 1% orange oil, 1% beeswax, and 1% carnauba wax. So you are feeding it thinner. That is not a finish. https://www.howardproducts.com/files/HOW-100_Feed-N-Wax.pdf

that's 104%

 

[Richard Coers]

It's their ranges and your math. If you add all the maximums, it's like athletes giving more than 100%.

 

[hockenbery]

It's their ranges and your math. If you add all the maximums, it's like athletes giving more than 100%.

Or “baseball is 90% mental, the other half is physical” - YB

 

[Doug Freeman]

Appreciate the interesting input, Doug, and I'd sure appreciate a little bit more. What do you mean when you say "fully filled?" Also, how do you apply the nc lacquer (spray, brush, etc.)?

Fully filled - look up a nice glossy finished piano. All grain and defects filled, surface smooth as glass. While it can be accomplished with a brush spraying is much better. Can be done with a rattle can, but a spray gun is best - allows adding retarder if needed, dye for toner coats, etc.

 

[Bill Boehme]

I see quite a few people using Howard's Feed and Wax as a finish. I'm curious to know your collective opinions on the suitability of it as a finish. Does it hold-up over time?

The website says that it is basically a furniture polish/wax which means that it isn't intended to be a finish. I agree with Richard Coers regarding "feeding" the wood. Wood doesn't need to be fed.

 

[Emiliano Achaval]

Emiliano:
While I'm thinking of it...what is your go-to finish for your beautiful urns?

Urns are such a personal project for the buyer. I work closely with them. I explain the choices and they choose. For example, last month the big Koa urn went to a log cabin in Colorado. The widow wanted it the same finish as the cabin. She sent a picture and as far as I could tell, there was no finish, at least nothing shinny or color. Plain wood. So I applied Danish oil, inside and outside. When they want something else, I offer lacquer. I do not like glossy. But, sometimes they tell me they want it shinny. I use Deft rattle cans of lacquer. Always over Danish oil, after it has dried some. I do have a spray gun. I do not enjoy the clean up. Aloha from Maui

 

[Donovan Bailey]

I dont use any “turner’s finish”. Been turning for ~ 8 yrs, but been finishing wood for 30+. Favorites for turned items are nc lacquer for hi gloss fully filled, or plain oil based poly thinned 1:1 and applied like a danish oil. Also use CA glue on small stuff.

Doug:
Thanks for the extra input on NC lacquer. That is the first time that I have heard an explanation for the term "fully filled." If you don't mind me pestering you again....in regard to your oil-based poly comment: 1) what do you normally thin the poly with?; 2) do you buff the poly surface after it dries?

 

[Richard Coers]

Urns are such a personal project for the buyer. I work closely with them. I explain the choices and they choose. For example, last month the big Koa urn went to a log cabin in Colorado. The widow wanted it the same finish as the cabin. She sent a picture and as far as I could tell, there was no finish, at least nothing shinny or color. Plain wood. So I applied Danish oil, inside and outside. When they want something else, I offer lacquer. I do not like glossy. But, sometimes they tell me they want it shinny. I use Deft rattle cans of lacquer. Always over Danish oil, after it has dried some. I do have a spray gun. I do not enjoy the clean up. Aloha from Maui

How do you handle the orange peel from the poor atomization from the rattle can nozzle? Wet sand and buff? I use a cheap touch-up gun, only take a couple of minutes to clean it up, but way less time making a dead smooth finish. Way ahead of the time game vs cleaning. And no recycling of the can necessary.

 

[Doug Freeman]

Doug:
Thanks for the extra input on NC lacquer. That is the first time that I have heard an explanation for the term "fully filled." If you don't mind me pestering you again....in regard to your oil-based poly comment: 1) what do you normally thin the poly with?; 2) do you buff the poly surface after it dries?

Thin the poly with mineral spirits, not the eco green crap. I use mw semi-gloss. Flood the surface, keep it wet for 10-30 min (some porous punky wood will absorb a lot, many times through the wall), wipe it off. Let evaporate for a few hours, another coat. Sometimes wet sand to fill the grain/small defects. 2-4 coats, each coat takes less time to absorb. Let cure till I can’t smell it, then buff with a variation of the Beal system. Sometimes I leave the semi- gloss look. I use semi- gloss so that NE bowl edges and unfilled defects have lower gloss and dont have the shiny plastic look.