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Robust Outboard turning attachment

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Hello fellow turners I have a question for those of you who actually have any first hand experience with Brent's outboard turning attachment. I've had 3 or 4 times recently where I could have made a nice chunk of change if I had outboard turning ability on my American Beauty. Before I pull the trigger on it.(I've seen the short video of Ashely Harwood doing a finish cut ) (wonder what it looked like when she roughed it funny they left that part out) I want some more info from turners who have actually used it and their thoughts. Does it get in the way when turning off the end when not using the outboard post? It doesn't appear to hinder turning in any way but ...

Breck
 
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Breck, I have the outboard turning attachment on my American Beauty and have never found it to be in the way. The tool post is easily removable so that it can be stowed out of the way but I leave it in place and have it where it isn't in my way. The swinging arms can also be removed leaving only the brackets that bolt to the lathe. I've done a few bowls at the end of the lathe and when I remove the tool post I don't find the brackets to be in my way at all. I use the outboard attachment when doing off center flat pieces or larger wall hangings and like the attachment very much. You just want to make sure your piece is very well secured as you won't be able to have tailstock support.

I should add that installation was a breeze.
 
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Breck, I have the outboard turning attachment on my American Beauty and have never found it to be in the way. The tool post is easily removable so that it can be stowed out of the way but I leave it in place and have it where it isn't in my way. The swinging arms can also be removed leaving only the brackets that bolt to the lathe. I've done a few bowls at the end of the lathe and when I remove the tool post I don't find the brackets to be in my way at all. I use the outboard attachment when doing off center flat pieces or larger wall hangings and like the attachment very much. You just want to make sure your piece is very well secured as you won't be able to have tailstock support.

I should add that installation was a breeze.
Thanks Damon I really appreciate someone with experience replying.
 

hockenbery

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Would the Oneway outboard tool attachment work on that
Lathe. It has a tail stock to hold very large work!

It’s possible with a lot of customizing the ONEWAY is is built to bolt onto the ONEWAY. No matching bolt holes on the Robust. It would take a lot of rework to make the Robust swing away work. And the footprint at the end of the lathe would prevent workin close in.

The Robust is a terrific lathe but not meant for really big work.
A 23” bowl between centers is not small and if you don’t need to work both sides of the piece a 24”+ bowl is achievable

ONEWAY gives a lot more capacity between centers.
A ONEWAY with the outboard table and tailstock riser can turn a bowl about 40” between centers and maybe 44” depending on where you can reach with the huge banjo. Also if you are doing super deep hollow forms you want the long bed.

The vb36 is another lathe meant for big work.

unless you get bit by the urge to go really big the Robust is big enough.
 
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" I use the outboard attachment when doing off center flat pieces or larger wall hangings and like the attachment very much. You just want to make sure your piece is very well secured as you won't be able to have tailstock support."

Damon, that is exactly what I want to do with an out board attachment. Since I haven't done any outboard turning since I sold my PM3520B I would like to ask you how you went about securing your off center flat pieces or larger wall hangings without the tailstock advantage. I love gleening techniques from other turners. Many times I may already be aware of some techniques, but many times I'm not. So any tips would be appreciated. Especially how to secure a relatively thin 2 to 4" slab of burl with only one small thicker bulging area that will allow a small bowl to be turned into it yet it is off center to the flat area.

Thanks any sound methods will be appreciated.
 

Bill Boehme

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I have the outboard turning rig.It is very solid and heavy duty. When it isn't being used I remove the tool post and everything else folds up very nicely beneath the tilt away so it isn't in the way.

Here is another thread on the subject that you might find useful: Outboard Turning Attachment.

My apologies to @Brent@TurnRobust for butchering nomenclature of the various parts of the outboard rig.
 
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I have the outboard turning rig.It is very solid and heavy duty. When it isn't being used I remove the tool post and everything else folds up very nicely beneath the tilt away so it isn't in the way.

Here is another thread on the subject that you might find useful: Outboard Turning Attachment.

My apologies to @Brent@TurnRobust for butchering nomenclature of the various parts of the outboard rig.
Thank you very much Bill.
 

hockenbery

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One method of doing sculptural pieces is mounting them on a large plywood disc.
You can add counter weights to the disc.
Holding the piece on the disc requires planning so the mounting method does mot interfere with the turning.

3-4 strips of metal banding over the piece screwed ( or bolted) to the plywood, wood blocks screwed along the edges.. sometimes you can glue 1x2s across the face (hot melt, paper joint) and bolt the ends to the disc.
In some designs you can put a screw through the back of the plywood into the disc - measure a lot!
 
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One method of doing sculptural pieces is mounting them on a large plywood disc.
You can add counter weights to the disc.
Holding the piece on the disc requires planning so the mounting method does mot interfere with the turning.

3-4 strips of metal banding over the piece screwed ( or bolted) to the plywood, wood blocks screwed along the edges.. sometimes you can glue 1x2s across the face (hot melt, paper joint) and bolt the ends to the disc.
In some designs you can put a screw through the back of the plywood into the disc - measure a lot!

These are what I was talking about, Thanks. I sure wish someone would invent a system to take into account the many different obstacles that can arise when trying to secure a unique piece of wood for safe outboard turning. (I have been thinking of the plywood backing for my burl pieces.)
 
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" I use the outboard attachment when doing off center flat pieces or larger wall hangings and like the attachment very much. You just want to make sure your piece is very well secured as you won't be able to have tailstock support."

Damon, that is exactly what I want to do with an out board attachment. Since I haven't done any outboard turning since I sold my PM3520B I would like to ask you how you went about securing your off center flat pieces or larger wall hangings without the tailstock advantage. I love gleening techniques from other turners. Many times I may already be aware of some techniques, but many times I'm not. So any tips would be appreciated. Especially how to secure a relatively thin 2 to 4" slab of burl with only one small thicker bulging area that will allow a small bowl to be turned into it yet it is off center to the flat area.

Thanks any sound methods will be appreciated.

Breck, I believe others will chime in with ideas to secure pieces and I'll share what I do as well. Most of my larger wall hangings are flat pieces or pieces that have a fair amount of flat areas. I have a large 36" plywood laminated disc and another that is 24", both are 1-1/4" thick and mounted to a 10" face plate. I mount my pieces of wood with wood screws from the back of the disc, through the disc and into the back of the wood. I then use a variety of face plates on the back side of the disc to balance everything. As I cut wood away I have to stop periodically to rebalance the disc. Once I'm done turning I sand the back of the piece filling the screw holes with sanding dust and wood glue.

There are instances where the ends of the wood will be cut off with so instead of screwing from the back I'll just secure the piece from the front.

I haven't yet turned anything that required a frame or straps so I can't help you there.

Damon
 

hockenbery

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Strobe light.
I saw Ron Gerton do a demo using a strobe light.
Would be worth looking into if you plan to do lots of sculptural pieces

What I remember is you need a dynamic timing of the strobe light because every lathe will drop in RPM when you start cutting.
The flashing of the strobe gives a stopped view of the turning.
a handy thing to let you leave the burl features you want also to not hit any strapping or support blocks.

here are notes by @Lars Stole

https://www.aawforum.org/community/...es-for-a-synchronized-lathe-stroboscope.9254/
 
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Breck, I thought I would add another note since I'm using my outboard attachment today. If you don't already have the foot kill switch you might consider buying it, Brent provides very clear instructions on installing it. When I'm turning outboard I like that I can quickly turn off the lathe with the tap of a foot. Actually, I use the foot switch a lot when I'm hollowing as well.
 
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