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Parts for a hollowing system

Emiliano Achaval

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I have been switching the large post for the laser light arm in my Lyle Jamieson system. When I use my steady rest I have to use a short post. I have stripped both screws, and today the nut turns inside the little plastic holder. If I'm going to replace it I want one made out of steel, heavy duty. I will be trying my luck with Google. But if this happened to me, I'm sure I'm not alone and someone has already found a supplier for a steel component. I'm attaching a picture of the piece. Thanks in advance. Stay safe my friends. Aloha
 

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Dave Landers

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I'd probably try epoxy around the nut to hold it in place. Gotta be careful not to gum up the threads. I'd use the best epoxy you have (usually that'd be the longer curing stuff). At least that might get you by until you can find a replacement.
 
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I hosted Lyle when he demonstrated at our club. If memory serves me, I recall him saying he could not find an alternative and had this part specially made. That was a number of years ago.
 

hockenbery

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I hosted Lyle when he demonstrated at our club. If memory serves me, I recall him saying he could not find an alternative and had this part specially made. That was a number of years ago.
When I hosted Lyle his fittings, which i copied, were made of wood like maple. Cross drill the holes the size of the rod or pipe, drill bolt holes. cut with a bandsaw bolt together, cut again, bolt together....
Reassemble around the pipes and rods the bandsaw Kerf makes a tight fit when bolted.
 
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Dennis J Gooding

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I have been switching the large post for the laser light arm in my Lyle Jamieson system. When I use my steady rest I have to use a short post. I have stripped both screws, and today the nut turns inside the little plastic holder. If I'm going to replace it I want one made out of steel, heavy duty. I will be trying my luck with Google. But if this happened to me, I'm sure I'm not alone and someone has already found a supplier for a steel component. I'm attaching a picture of the piece. Thanks in advance. Stay safe my friends. Aloha

Maybe I do not understand correctly what the problem is, but as a work-around, can't you just get longer bolts and enough washers to bring the head and/or the nut out of the pocket where you can use wrenches on them?
 

Emiliano Achaval

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I am guessing but I would think that Lyle would want to make it right by sending you a replacement part.
Lyle and I are good friends. He's replaced the laser light once, at no charge. Problem is, I do not want another plastic piece. I want solid steel. Good suggestion, thank you.
 

Emiliano Achaval

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Emiliano Achaval

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Maybe I do not understand correctly what the problem is, but as a work-around, can't you just get longer bolts and enough washers to bring the head and/or the nut out of the pocket where you can use wrenches on them?
I could cut these bolts out and use longer ones, but that would look like Micky Mouse fixed it. I have used that hollowing system several times in my articles for Woodturning UK magazine, I have to look professional, LOL
 

Emiliano Achaval

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When I hosted Lyle his fittings, which i copied, were made of wood like maple. Cross drill the holes the size of the rod or pipe, drill bolt holes. cut with a bandsaw bolt together, cut again, bolt together....
Reassemble around the pipes and rods the bandsaw Kerf makes a tight fit when bolted.
I'm just guessing here, but I think is possible that Lyle has some Argentine genes in him, LOL. Thanks for sharing Al, that was the laugh of the night!
 

Emiliano Achaval

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I'd probably try epoxy around the nut to hold it in place. Gotta be careful not to gum up the threads. I'd use the best epoxy you have (usually that'd be the longer curing stuff). At least that might get you by until you can find a replacement.
That would be a good solution until I can get the part. Thanks
 

Emiliano Achaval

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Can't you simply use a bolt with flat washers under the head and nut. Hold one end with a wrench, use a ratchet and socket on the other end to tighten or loosen.

Yeah, not as convenient as the embedded nut, but not as big a deal as trying to source a new joint piece. Are there even standard joint pieces with the correct diameters? What is the needed diameter?
 
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Just the site that I needed Stu! Thank you.
If one of the units from McMasters has the right number of legs you could use it by making wooden sleeves to go from the 1" OD requirement down to the sizes required. Th procedure would be to mount an appropriate size close gran hardwood in a scroll chuck, turn round to 1" OD, bore for the OD of the rod to be clamped, cut off to the required length then hold on end up to your band saw, cut through one side and you have a wooden collet.
 

Emiliano Achaval

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Well, I got tired of Googling and emailing companies. I emailed Lyle. I'm glad I did. He's sending me a replacement at no charge. That's why I support woodturners that sell tools. Great customer support. Was my fault I stripped the screw, I used the wrong size screwdriver, too lazy to look for the right one. Like Don said, I can't find the right size gizmo and I will have to turn some adaptors. Forget it, I'll wait for Lyle's package. Thanks everybody!! Aloha
 
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Emiliano - l replaced the the Phillips head screws with socket head (allen) screws in that part of my system. Allen or torx drive are far superior and will survive use much longer than phillips or straight heads.

I too like those better for machine screws. Had some adjustment knobs on my Ron Brown laser that are round and could never get them tight enough . Saw Tim had the lever style knobs on his RB systems then 4 years ago so I ordered some and it works great for screws you have to adjust each time you set up.
 
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Emiliano - these are fairly common fittings for railing systems on boats, typically stainless steel and available in at least a couple of sizes. This is what I used along with aluminum tubing on my home-built Jamieson hollowing system. Works great.
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/sea-...3-way-corner-fitting-1--10729507?recordNum=20
Seadog, Taco and a bunch of suppliers carry them. They fasten with set screws.
 

Emiliano Achaval

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Emiliano - l replaced the the Phillips head screws with socket head (allen) screws in that part of my system. Allen or torx drive are far superior and will survive use much longer than phillips or straight heads.
That's a great suggestion. Once I receive the part from Lyle I will take the regular screws out and see what I find at the hardware store. Thanks.
 

Emiliano Achaval

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From what you've described you should be able to get bolts and use the existing part, can't you?
Lyle suggested I keep the original part, after I fix it, for the large or standard post. Use the second one for the smaller one that fits through the steady rest. This way you change the part by loosening the large bolts with nuts and not the smaller Philips screws. I hardly ever use the steady rest. I got too ambitious with some of the latest urns. They were too tall anyways. I have found out that most niches at cemeteries are 12.5 inches square.
 
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Emiliano - do you have a webpage, video, or presentation materials describing your hollowing process? I'm interested in your mounting method and material removal steps, not extreme detail. Chuck or faceplate? Do you leave a lot of mass outside, and work the OD and ID down together, etc.
 

Emiliano Achaval

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Emiliano - do you have a webpage, video, or presentation materials describing your hollowing process? I'm interested in your mounting method and material removal steps, not extreme detail. Chuck or faceplate? Do you leave a lot of mass outside, and work the OD and ID down together, etc.
I have not done a video on hollowing. But, check Lyle's YouTube. I use his system and methods. If I hear one more time that there are newer and better systems... I know, but why change, his system works, does the job. It's paid off. I do leave as much mass as possible, then I finish the bottom. I prefer faceplates for hollowing. I prefer let's say 12 shorter screws into end grain that 8 longer ones.
I make a 1 1/4 in hole with a Forstner bit so my cutter can access the area. I hope I answered some of your questions. Aloha
 
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I have not done a video on hollowing. But, check Lyle's YouTube. I use his system and methods. If I hear one more time that there are newer and better systems... I know, but why change, his system works, does the job. It's paid off. I do leave as much mass as possible, then I finish the bottom. I prefer faceplates for hollowing. I prefer let's say 12 shorter screws into end grain that 8 longer ones.
I make a 1 1/4 in hole with a Forstner bit so my cutter can access the area. I hope I answered some of your questions. Aloha

Yes just what I was asking. Do you complete the turning wet then sand/finish after drying or twice turn them?

Been in engineering my 35 yr career. I researched all the hollowing systems available ~3 years ago. I chose Lyle’s as the all around best system and value for my application and its been a great system. Some are better for this or that, but all around I didnt find a better one.
 
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