What screws, vendor and size should be used with face-plates
Forget the face plate and use the wood worm screw it is quick and safe. Once the rough blank is mounted on the screw bring the tail stock up, true up the blank, do the outside of the bowl, form the tenon or recess, remove from the screw, remove the screw from the chuck, mount in the chuck and turn the inside of the bowl.
I didn't say anything about hollow forms. Any side grain bowls including coring or natural edge it works excellent for preparing the chuck mounting. In the case of natural edge I use my little battery powered chain saw to carve a flat area through the bark big enough so the jaws holding the screw can rest solidly on the wood and if I am using a recess I can move the tailstock out of the way to finish it. The wood worm screw isn't that different from between centers, the bowl pictured is an example of once turned NE bowl that started and finishing the outside using the wood worm screw.Worm screw Doesn’t work well for hollow forms or bowls held for coring or hollowing.
Worm screw works well to hold a sawn blank bowl for roughing.
A better solution for blanks is between centers then you can align the grain.
didn't I just do that?Can't we all just find the perfect screw!?
Questions
(1) the faceplates I have all have countersinks bored on the screw holes to accept flat head screws, but some of the recommendations above seem to suggest screws with other heads (pan heads, etc...); do you worry about matching the head of your screw to the hole in which the screw is going?
(2) the faceplates I have all have screw holes large enough to accept #12 screws, but some of the recommendations above suggest #10 or even #8 size screws: do you worry about putting smaller diameter screws into larger holes?
(3) the faceplates I have are all about 1/2" thick, so a 1" screw would only have about 1/2" into the wood; depending on the size of the blank, that doesn't seem like enough, does it?
Between centers with a spur drive is lot different in that I can balance the grain and or the rims of NE bowls as I do the turning.The wood worm screw isn't that different from between centers,
Totally agree with Al.Between centers with a spur drive is lot different in that I can balance the grain and or the rims of NE bowls as I do the turning.
if I was perfect with the saw then the grain or rims will be in alignment and I could get the same results using a worm screw on a bowl.
To me it is much simpler and faster to use a spur drive. So if I was off a bit with the saw I can correct it on the fly.