Segment block cutting

[Pete Staehling]

I am pretty new to segmented turning. I managed to make a nice 6 segment bowl using my miter saw, but realized it probably wasn't the ideal tool for cutting segments. After looking at a bunch of different sleds and watching some videos I built a wedgie sled or actually I should say I have one mostly completed (I still have to make a run for some hardware).

Any way after looking at the cost of the wedgies I decided to avoid spending on them at least to start with. I figure that I can use a 30 degree drafting triangle and a 45 degree drafting triangle for 12 and 8 segment bowls to start with. Is there any reason that is a bad idea?

I figure after that I can decide if I want to buy any wedgies, attempt to make my own, or just use the triangles and limit myself to those two angles for a while.

I figure that I can probably make some decent pattern wedges with some fiddling with the tuning of the sled until I get it right. I have a nice Starrett angle gauge and rules and am pretty patient and like fiddling with stuff like that. The angle gauge is very accurate, but since the radius if the scale is short the resolution of the reading is limited. I figure I can probably get within 0.2 degrees or so to start with. Not sure if I am right on that or may be optimistic, but a little trial and error can fine tune it regardless of what the starting precision is. Heck I might hit it first try or i might be off 0.5 degrees. I could probably get more accurate angles doing some calculation by using linear measurements over a longer distance, but the angle gauge would be quick and dirty. Is this all going to be so much trouble that the Seg-Easy wedges will look like a great bargain?

 

[Timothy White]

The drafting triangles should work. Great idea
I have a CNC router I’ve found it’s cheaper to buy the triangles from seg easy than to make them

 

[Mike Johnson]

You can also use an Incra Miter Fence for cutting segments they make several accessories that work well for the process.
There are plenty of people that use a miter saw for cutting larger segment pieces once you get the angle set properly.
Once you get a sled set up properly you can quickly make any angle segments, it helps to have a clamp to hold the small pieces,
or some people just use a pencil with an eraser on the end to hold the small pieces from moving and get your fingers out of the way.

 

[BobCoates]

I have made mine, I found if I follow the idea on a 30 60 90 triangle that cutting the angle is easier.That is to make a 16 segment you cut one at 22 1/2 degrees. so that you end up with a wedge of 221/2., 671/2 and 90 etc Once you make a new wedge, you can tweak it by making a ring, If all the joints are closed, you are done. If not adjust one of the fences to improve the closure. When perfect, put your pattern between the realigned fences and mark how to adjust it.
The first pass at making the template is to use a taper jig to get the angle. You can do this since one of the angles is 90 degrees. I have been sucessful to get up to 64 segments in a ring without 1/2 gluing and then sanding to fit.
If you don't rate you time high cost it works.
Bob

 

[Larry Copas]

When I first started segmenting, I bought triangles at the local craft store. Cheap import stuff and one edge of the triangle was not straight. I think they may have been cast. Check the edges against a good straight edge.

I would buy old made in the USA triangles from ebay first now that I have learned my lesson.

 

[Pete Staehling]

When I first started segmenting, I bought triangles at the local craft store. Cheap import stuff and one edge of the triangle was not straight. I think they may have been cast. Check the edges against a good straight edge.

I would buy old made in the USA triangles from ebay first now that I have learned my lesson.

Yeah, I have seen some really shoddy triangles. Decent drafting ones are generally spot on, but there are some terrible ones out there.

 

[Don Wattenhofer]

I have to disagree I think the miter saw is the ideal tool for cutting segments. The big advantage is the fact that the saw head moves and the material is stationary. The saw needs to be setup properly, first with the fence set for 90 degree cut using a scrap piece of wood with the opposing sides parallel check for square on the vertical and horizontal and make any required adjustments. I make an auxiliary table for the saw that I can mount a fixed stop and a toggle clamp as shown in the first picture. Notice the fact that you can safely cut as much as you can possible from each strip of material. Also shown is a digital protractor for setting the saw for angles that presets are not provided.

The next picture shows the registration mark that I use to fine tune the cut so that I can glue all joints at once. The process is to cut a full set of segments, then dry fit and clamp with a hose clamp and look to see if the joints are open on the inside or outside. If it is open on the inside reduce the angle (to the left in the picture). The adjustment is made by partially loosening the aux table then tapping it with a dead blow hammer while watching the registration mark.

The third picture shows two rings glued up and you can see that the strip had sapwood along one edge so as the pieces were cut the pieces were alternated between rings such that one has sap wood on the outside and one on the inside.

 

[Pete Staehling]

I have done some segment rings using my new sled and turned a couple bowls and I am very pleased with the results. It is really easy to use and quite precise rings result.

Dan. your miter saw setup looks great too. Given the auxiliary flat table table and preset reference marks I imagine it works very well.

I have never used a digital protractor. Is the accuracy or the inexpensive ones up to the task of setting angles for cutting segments or is further tuning required. I can imagine using one with my wedgie sled, but wonder if the accuracy is adequate or if it would only be useful for an initial stab at making a pattern wedge. I am guessing the latter.

 

[Mike Brazeau]

I do not do segmented but I have done functional bird houses with a compound staved roof. I used both table saw and sliding compound mitre saw. When I added a toggle clamp to my setup on the SCMS things really fell into place. I used a digital angle gauge for blade settings too.