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Building a woodturning shop

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My current shop is an insulated 12'x16' shed. It houses my desk, Robust lathe, small Oneway lathe, two tool cabinets, a table saw and a work bench. I'm in the process of thinking of having a 16'x24' garage built so that I can have a little more breathing room and so that I can move my drum sander and planer into the shop. Having it out of the garage would give the cars a little more elbow room too. I could do a 14x24, I stepped it off with my tools but the 16' wide give me a little flexibility.

The 16'x24' garage comes a concrete foundation, excavation, permits, one steel man door and one roll up door as well as 12" eaves on the sides and 24" eaves on the front and back, 2x4 construcion 16" on center. The building is $16,700 all said and done. They can have the foundation poured in the next two weeks but I would have to wait a couple of months before the built could start.

The options I'm considering is four or five double pane windows, soffit vents and a ridge vent so that I can have proper ventilation when I insulate the roof. The soffit vents add $375 and the ridge vent adds $225. I don't know if it is a good idea to have these if I plan on insulating the roof. I don't have a cost but I do plan on having 2" insulation boards laid down before the concrete is poured to help keep the floor from getting to cold.

I'm curious about the roll up door and would appreciate some insight. I don't need a roll up door as I would never use the building for a vehicle. Its just going to be my shop. I do though need a wide opening to get my Robust in with the tractor so I was considering a double wide man door (two 3' doors). I was also considering a wood door like those found on sheds. My concern with the shed type doors as well as the roll up garage door is drafts. I heat my shop in the winter, and usually leave it heated 24/7. So an uninsulated door or lots of drafts would not be good.

Anything else I should consider if I decide to get this built?
Do insulated roll up garage doors seal well? Other suggestions for a wide door?
 
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I would want as many windows as your configuration would allow. Outside light/views are important to me.

Double wide door is the route I would take, especially as you don't plan to ever store vehicles. Would still be wide enough to move things in /out as needed.

Have you considered radiant heat in the floor? Can't speak to cost, but if I was building new, the only way I would go.
 
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several metal warehouse buildings in area.....all are build with 3 or 4 foot block or brick at bottom of each wall with metal sidings above

local shop teacher's shop had Windows where he put fan blowing from tail stock down ways out the window......he did have dust control system that he used on varity of power tools

Dust control should be major consideration as its probably #1 danger of woodturning
 
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I would want as many windows as your configuration would allow. Outside light/views are important to me.

Double wide door is the route I would take, especially as you don't plan to ever store vehicles. Would still be wide enough to move things in /out as needed.

Have you considered radiant heat in the floor? Can't speak to cost, but if I was building new, the only way I would go.

Unfortunately radiant heat floors would take me well out of budget. I currently use a 5000w 240v heater that even worked well in my uninsulated 24x24 detached garage so I expect it to work find in the new shop. Four or five windows should be fine, adding more down the road would be easy and keep the upfront cost down. The contractor said he could rough in a couple of windows at no extra cost if I just tell him where.
 
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several metal warehouse buildings in area.....all are build with 3 or 4 foot block or brick at bottom of each wall with metal sidings above

local shop teacher's shop had Windows where he put fan blowing from tail stock down ways out the window......he did have dust control system that he used on varity of power tools

Dust control should be major consideration as its probably #1 danger of woodturning

Hi Charles. I thought about a metal building and they are cheaper upfront but I've talked to some folks in the area that have them and they have condensation issues so a stick built should work fine.

Dust control is already taken care of. I currently have a 3hp dust collector with collection ports at every piece of equipment, I also have an air filtration system hanging from the ceiling. Both would go to the new shop and I plan on installing and exhaust fan near the lathe. All that in combination with my respirator or Trend unit should keep my lungs relatively healthy.
 
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I'm teetering back and forth between the 14' and 16' wide garages. The 16' give me some extra space inside, the 14' would allow me to afford a 6' concrete patio with awning at one end, so more space outside. Decisions, decisions. I hope to have a contract signed as soon as I figure it out. I was able to locate a prehung double door locally.
 
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where are u locating wood stash?
old shop or under your awning patio? or is that for kiddie pool to soak feet/body?
 

john lucas

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I just. Built my 3rd shop. Went with metal but I Insulated it with spray in foam so no condensation. I did. Ot put as many windows in because I need the wall space for cabinets and hanging tools. I put an insulated garage door in mostly because I think it helps resale later. Some people (dont know who or why) would actually rather have a garage than a workshop. It was nice when I moves all the tools in and on good days in really like to open it up. Input in tons of outlets and so far its paid off although undecided to.put in ceiling fans afterword zo now have to run more electricity. I did put a 6x12 shed attached for my dust collector and air Compressor and a little storage for wood.
 
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for your shed....what type floor?
ground, gravel, or concrete
 
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0824172045[1].jpg
where are u locating wood stash?
old shop or under your awning patio? or is that for kiddie pool to soak feet/body?

Wood stash.... I have an 8'x12' shed dedicated to wood. The garage has a lot of wood that will be relocated to the current shop (old shop?). I was considering an awning and shelves along the outside back of the garage for wood, it gets no sunlight and is out of sight from my spouse (very important!). I probably don't need the later as I have plenty of storage for my current wood situation, but its an option if I get more. Right now I've been giving a lot to the turning club for the raffle table and lots to some vets that turn.

Here's the view from where my shop patio will be. A kiddie pool wouldn't be so bad but a covered area for some out door stuff like spraying or using the chainsaw in bad weather or having a beverage with a visiting turner.
 
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I just. Built my 3rd shop. Went with metal but I Insulated it with spray in foam so no condensation. I did. Ot put as many windows in because I need the wall space for cabinets and hanging tools. I put an insulated garage door in mostly because I think it helps resale later. Some people (dont know who or why) would actually rather have a garage than a workshop. It was nice when I moves all the tools in and on good days in really like to open it up. Input in tons of outlets and so far its paid off although undecided to.put in ceiling fans afterword zo now have to run more electricity. I did put a 6x12 shed attached for my dust collector and air Compressor and a little storage for wood.

I really enjoyed reading about your shop build and the accompanying photos. My dust collector is outside in a cabinet and I plan on doing the same if I get the new shop. Keeps the noise down and doesn't take up valuable floor space. I'm fortunate that I can vent outside though I do need to keep the door cracked during the winter. Heat loss hasn't been so bad. I'm limiting my windows to four or five for the same reason you mentioned, shelving and hanging space. I have a tremendous amount of ceiling LED lights that will be relocated to the new shop.
 
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I'm teetering back and forth between the 14' and 16' wide garages. The 16' give me some extra space inside, the 14' would allow me to afford a 6' concrete patio with awning at one end, so more space outside. Decisions, decisions. I hope to have a contract signed as soon as I figure it out. I was able to locate a prehung double door locally.

If you can fit things comfortably, a patio with awning would be very useful. Place to shake off rain/snow before going inside, place to sit at beginning/end of day and have a beverage. Prep/store wood before bringing into shop, etc....
 
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for your shed....what type floor?
ground, gravel, or concrete

The floor in my current shop is 3/4" tongue and grove, then 1" of foam board insulation followed by another layer of 3/4" tongue and grove sheets. The new shop would have a four inch concrete floor with 2" of foam board insulation under it.

I have insulated overhead metal doors on both my garage and shop. sealing is not a problem ... they have rubber flap seals that does an excellent job. I air condition both the garage and the shop.

I'll talk to the contractor when he comes out to do the site survey and see what he uses for the garage door. I'm glad to hear that they can be sealed.


John, where the shop will be it would be a great hobby room or in-law suite should one not need a shop. Or even a large storage shed. Lots more places on the property should a new owner decide they want a bigger shop.
 
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Built my second shop 4 years back, after moving. First was 24'x36', was a great shop, and had a 6' overhang off the back long side, and six windows. Loved that shop, but when building my second one, wanted a few changes. Second one was a little bigger, 26'x40'x9' cielings, went down to three windows, and the biggest change was in floor heat. It was expensive, but is fantastic, comfortable, and very efficient. For sure, cut the windows down to three or four at the most, you will need the wall space that you will gain, and would probably be best served with just two windows. Go with a double door, not garage door. You can bring anything in and out a double door. Garage doors are a major heat loss, insulated or not. A ridge vent should be automaticly part of the build, they do build by code where you are, don't they. While I love my in floor heat, a shop your size should be able to be easily heated what ever way you choose. While not needed for woodturning, 9' cielings are great for genral woodworking when you have to flip around 8' boards or plywood. Insulate to the max, not only will help with heating, but really help keep cool in the summer.
 
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If the newer shop is anywhere near your garage/driveway, I would suggest you consider what a future buyer would want. As John said, some folks want to use an extra garage bay for their RV or 4 wheeler or boat, rather than using it as a shop. In that case, an extra tall garage door would improve the resale value.

Personally, I like to see out of the shop when I'm working, so I vote for more windows rather than fewer. Also, I like the passive solar gain of windows on the south side. (though you have more clouds in heating season than we do and not the heating degree days, so that benefit might not be realized)
 
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With choices of smaller and bigger go with bigger. I will bet the house that once done and you are in there for a year you will wish you went bigger. My woodturning shop is 24 X 36 and I wish now that i went to 48. Started with having a 16' insulated garage door but recently removed it and framed it in and insulated like the rest of the building. Flat woodworking area is 33 X 33 and is full of woodturning wood. Had I known that woodturning would have precluded doing flat work I could have got rid of a few tools in the flat area. As stated go as big as you can.
 
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I like as many windows as possible. Where wall space is a premium, windows up high against the ceiling height work although you get no view. Those circular tube sky lights also bring a lot of natural light in. They do not even have to be through the roof to work. I am probably quite a bit further south. I would put the tubing in the floor for radiant heat just for the ability to convert it later. I have an out door boiler with sufficient capacity to heat a shop as well. Using the heat that hits the roof to help heat in cool weather also makes sense. Saw a place yesterday at an open house that had a fan blowing air in from the crawl space when the temps of the crawl space reached 85 degrees. In summer when the building did not need heat, the warm air was simply blown out side. The new radiant wall panel systems also help with heat and do not take floor space like radiators or base board heating so.
 
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Having just renovated my shop I have a few helpful hints. Once you decide on the final size plan out where you want to have your tools and then look at the window placement. Like John stated wall space is valuable. Windows on the south side are best due to the sun exposure.

Consider a cathedral ceiling so you get more headroom. If not 10ft would be my minimum height. Nice to be able to my wood around without hitting the ceiling.

Since you are doing this once install a mini split heating/AC unit. You get heat and AC which will help with the humidity.

Put a few plugs around the outside of the shop so you can plug in outside things and not have to run a cord from the shop.

Best advice is to plan everything out, bench and tool placement, wood storage, etc, then plan your electrical around that. Run conduit under the floor to feed the middle of the shop. What tools need 30 amps? All other lines should be 20 amp. Do you want plugs in specific areas, ceiling for fan, air cleaner, double plugs near the lathe and for sharpening area. Switches for specific items like the ceiling fan or task lighting above the lathe. If someone is doing the electrical the you need to show the what you want.

Keep us posted since most of us have experienced a shop build or renovation more than once.
 
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Plugs outside......i use electric chainsaw most of time......often overlooked

good idea Don
 
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As others have said, put alot of thought into your electric outlets and needs. You don't want the builder to decide where your outlets will go. Plan where your counter tops will be, and put electric outlets above that, and I would have at least four cieling outlets. And I agree, you want at least one outlet outside, and preferably two. As to heating needs, everyone has different needs. While we have had a warm fall, it was below freezing here this morning, and possible snow this weekend.
 
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Bill, you are cruel. Yes it was cold this morning, but a beautifull sunny fall day for the rest of today. I had a winter house on N Padre, just outside Corpus for about 5 years. Was a great time, incredable fishing, and a really nice woodturning club in Corpus that let me be a member in the years I was there. I cherrish the days I spent with that club, and the great friends I made because of it. I really miss them. Thought about moving full time there, till we went to stay two summers, to see how we liked it. That was the end of that. Everybody has their preferences, be it weather, or what ever else. Fortunatly in woodturning we can all happily coexist. Also, I really enjoyed the SWAT conventions. Texas should be proud.
 

Bill Boehme

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If we ever move our regional symposium to Corpus, we could claim that we named it SWAT in honor of the giant mosquitos. The Gulf Coast is beautiful, but it does get a tad warm and humid in the summer (summer starts in mid February and goes till mid November). :D
 

Donna Banfield

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Damon, my shop is currently a 24 x 48 foot timber frame barn, two stories. Dave and I built it from the trees down/up. By that I mean for two years we felled the trees or picked up already down trees, milled them on the sawmill for the beams and barnboard, and the last year actually built the barn. None of this would have happened without the help of a lot of the woodturning community in New England, especially when we needed a lot of bodies for the raising of the bents, the roof trusses and putting on the metal roof.

Here are some things we decided that were good decisions, and some that I wish I had done differently. Even at 24 x 48, I wish I had gone larger, like 50 x 100. But with every ten feet, we calculated an additional 10K in costs. Even with us and friends doing all the labor, that structure still went over budget by 30K. I wanted a lot of windows, but we ended up with two on one end wall; we also went with double French doors. Those three together give me plenty of natural light, especially with the French doors being south-facing. The need for wall space is real; and I'm now glad that I didn't load all the walls with windows. I argued and won for internal mini blinds in between the double-pane glass of the French doors. Internal meant I didn't have to keep them clean, but more important, with south-facing glass, the summer sun would heat that structure quickly. Being able to tilt those blinds up to deflect sun during the hottest part of the summer days helps keep the cooling costs down. And oh yes, that structure has AC. The heat source is a pellet stove; I could have opted for a woodstove, but the set-back for a wood stove is greater, and frankly I didn't want to sacrifice floor space. Besides, our main source of heat for the house is a woodstove, so any cut-offs are not wasted.

The interior walls are drywall as well as the ceiling, and are all painted bright white. We have a total of 32 eight foot fluorescent tube lights on the ceiling. Each bank of lights are on separate switches, so if I'm only working on the lathe, I only need one bank of light (8 tubes in a single row) turned on. We knew that as we aged, our ability to see would diminish. So the white walls, coupled with that lighting, gives us a good starting point. I also have a lot of task lighting on the machinery and equipment, where needed.

We have 9' ceilings, that allow us to lift and tilt 8' sheets of plywood when cutting on the table saw. And the table saw is placed just a few feet inside those double French doors, so when needed they can be opened to start the cuts. We have 9" of insulation in the walls, 12" in the ceiling. The second floor is not insulated and is my wood storage. The metal roof sits right on the trusses (no plywood) so it acts as a make-shift kiln. Even in the winter, the sun will heat that space; a large attic fan on one end wall is set to kick on when the temps reach 110F. Dave spent a lot of time figuring out where each piece of machinery would live, and we made sure that outlets were installed in the floor space for that. Those were the lathe, table saw, jointer and bandsaw. The table saw also has a run underneath the floor for dust collection to a cyclone.

The floor is poured concrete pad, with 2x4's and insulted sheeting on top of the concrete. Over that, we have 1 1/8" tongue and groove plywood that gives our feet and backs a bit of cushion and comfort. I wish we could have installed radiant floor heating, so that is one regret.

Almost all my finishes are done off the lathe, so a small area was walled off to act as a dust free environment for that purpose. We didn't make it large enough, and about 5 years later, we framed out an additional section that doubled its size. It is now where I do my finishing, pyro-engraving, airbrushing and studio photographs of my work.

Exciting to have a new workshop space, isn't it!
 
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You folks with massive shops are depressing me. :( My tiny shop hardly qualifies as a broom closet.

Indeed! Some of the larger shops are about the size of the LOT that my freestanding house stood on it Toronto. That lot also had to accommodate a garage and part of a shared driveway.
 
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Damon,
I would suggest going with 2 by 6 framing, rather than 2 by 4, mostly for insulation factors, both summer heat and winter cold. I would have the carpenters frame in for a garage door, but then frame into that a double wide man door, and a window or two if you can. The insulated garage doors offer minimal insulation, and are very leaky. The framed in man door can be easily removed for conversion at a later date. You can do a laminate type floor over the concrete. This would provide some insulation, and padding. A vapor barrier has to go down first. I would still use rubber mats by the lathe and any other place where you have to stand. A small standing type electric heater can keep a shop like that 'comfortable' during all but the most extreme cold. Have fun with the extra elbow room. It will vanish as soon as you move in......

robo hippy
 
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I just wanted to thank everyone for their thoughts, suggestions and experiences. There is a lot of good information that was shared. I'm still on the fence whether to get this done this winter or wait until spring.

I plan on three windows, possibly four. I'll have the contractor rough in the fourth in case I decide to add it later. For budget reasons I'll stick with the 2x4 framing. My current shop is 2x4 and to keep it heated 24/7 all winter runs me about $40 a month. That's with only 1" of insulation in the walls so I suspect 4" of insulation in the new shop will be just fine. We only get one month a year where is pretty hot so a split a/c system doesn't make sense, not for my location. I like the idea of framing in for the garage door then framing in the french doors and will ask the contractor about that whenever I decide to get it done.

Thank you all for your input.
 
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Okay, here is another question and one that concerns me a lot.

My current shop is a converted shed that was here when we purchased the house. The electrical was run to it by the previous owner and we do not know if the electrical was permitted. In our location building permits are handled by the Building Department, electrical permits are handled by another department. During the build of the new shop when the building inspector is on site doing his/her inspections is he/she likely to question the shed's electrical and report it to the other department? The only indication that there is electrical at the shed is the service conduit on the side of the building. I'm absolutely fine disconnecting the electrical as it will be disconnected anyway after I make the move to the new shop, I just hate to go two or three months without a shop. The new shop's electrical will be fully permitted.
 

Bill Boehme

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I imagine that you will want/need a higher ampacity feeder panel in the new shop which automatically renders the existing feeder circuit inadequate. I'm assuming that your current installation has a feeder panel. Your electrical contractor will tell you the minimum ampacity. It doesn't hurt to go bigger as long as it isn't bigger than the service entrance panel ampacity.
 
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I currently have 40 amp service in the small shop (run from the garage) and have never yet needed more. I've never had the lights flicker. I can turn on both the Robust and Oneway lathe, the bandsaw, dust collector and heater all at the same time with no lights flickering. I had an electrician come out last spring, he said from the garage I can run 40 amps like I have now or he can run a new line from the house and get me 50, maybe 60. For that extra ten amps or so it would involve running a lot of conduit along the house then a long trench to get to the shop whereas from the garage I would only need an eight foot trench. For now, since I have not yet had a need to have more than 40 amps, running from the garage would be the most cost effective. If down the road I find that I do need more amps I can revisit my budget and run a new dedicated circuit.

The electrician said the house panel is 200 amps and with the current loads I would be limited to 50 or 60 amps max unless I increase the service to the house. After checking with the power company the underground wire from the transformer to the house is only rated for 200 amps, and I can't afford no do I want to, dig everything up and run new service to the house for just a few more amps. The power company quoted me about $4000 for that work and I would have to dig through some nice landscaping.

I know most of you wouldn't do with less than 100 or 200 amp service but my 40 amps has served me well for three years and never once did I feel I needed more. If that changes down the road I'll have the option to run a new line from the house. Running bigger service to the house though just isn't an option. There is another location I could put the shop but that would require new/separate service from the transformer. The estimate I received for running and installing electrical was $5500, plus there would be a new meter fee every month. Overkill for my hobby.
 
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I've been using Grizzly's Shop Planner, what a great tool! I did a 14x24 shop and am able to fit all my tools in there but with minimal bench surfaces. Then I did a 16x24 layout and not only could I get all my tools in there, I could get plenty of flat surfaces as well. It'll run $2000 more for the larger shop but well worth the extra space
 
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Two more points...

The previous electrical was run by the previous owner. It’s safe to say you not responsible for what they did. Using that logic you would be responsible for any improvements the previous owner made. That’s not the case in my opinion.

Second. We all have our budgets but if this is your shop for the future don’t skimp on electrical, heat, structure, etc. These are the things that are difficult to change. If you need to spend a little more on something see if you can find the money from something else.
 
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You are better off building the square footage you want and hold off on details that can be completed later down the road.
There are plenty of projects the owner can complete and save money in the long run if you have time to play with.
You never seem to have enough square footage no matter how much you plan ahead for, your square footage will always bring a good
return when the property is sold.
 

Bill Boehme

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For a residential installation I think that the electrician isn't correct in what he said. There is nothing in the code that says that the sum of all the feeders and branch circuits must be equal to or less than the service entrance size. If you add up all the breakers in a residence they will almost always be significantly more than the service entrance ampacity ... the logic being that you won't ever be running all branch circuits to their maximum ampacity. Installing a 100 amp panel in your shop doesn't mean that you will suddenly be using more power, but what it does mean is that you can put each 240 volt machine on a dedicated branch circuit which is what the code requires for fixed appliances. And you should have lighting on its own branch circuit and wall receptacles on their own separate branch circuits. A lot of electrical contractors around here don't seemed to be as cognizant of the NEC as they ought to be. Maybe it's time to get a second opinion.

Of course, I can't see your installation and what would be involved, but the quoted price sure seems steep. When I was a kid, we had a back yard workshop serviced by a single 15 amp 120 volt branch circuit. A light bulb in the ceiling and one wall receptacle and we were in business. :D
 
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I'll second what Bill said about your electrical capacity.

I would definitely want 100 amp service in a new shop for the above stated reasons. It would also make the shop more attractive in the future if you were to ever decide to move/sell the property.

If you are not going to use AC in the shop, give some thought to window and door placement to help with cross ventilation during hot days.
 
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Coming to this a little late...but here’s a few things I learned building the 22 x 24 shop I’m in now. Windows wherever possible, wood floors are a lot more comfortable (if possible), light is critical, and flexibility for electrical/dust collection/air needs to planned in. 2 x 6 construction is a lot more practical where insulation is critical.
Instead of a rollup door I built four 3’ x 8’ doors and hung with barndoor roller hardware as bifolds. The entire opening can be open, or just one side open. My lathe faces the opening, about 5’ back giving me access to all sides. Turning with a full view of the creek/ravine/forest below. I like the fresh air, ease of access, and in the winter the doors seal up well enough that the space can be heated with a small mini-split.
I planned the space with turning as the prime activity, but also needed permanent space for a table saw and outfeed/assembly table (6’ x 5’ - storage below). All other equipment - bandsaw, planer, jointer are on mobile bases and stored out of the way until needed. Turning area upfront has a vaulted ceiling.
I like lots of light, so lots of windows on the south, creek facing side. 2 windows - 5’ x 4’ sliders with a 2’ counter/bench with storage below running along the full window wall. The back wall has a double wide sliding door that goes to a small 15’ x 12’ deck. Half the floor plan has a loft office above that doubles as an extra guest room when needed. The table saw/outfeed is under with a 9’ ceiling. 6 - 4’ led strip lights really brighten up this area.
Because of the sloping terrain, its on a raised foundation with doubled 2x12 floor joists on 12” centers. 1-1/4” flooring provides both a stable base for the lathe and a nice sloping (3’ to 5’) crawlspace that doubles as wood/blanks storage. The wood floor is stable enough for a Robust AB, nice and comfortable, the crawlspace allows both dust collection/compressor and electrical to be run to any point on the floor.
Even with a lot of planning, a shop never seems to be fully completed. Just added a rolling ladder to access shelves up in the vaulted ceiling area - used more barn door hardware to be able to roll it where needed. Still need to add on a small shed to the deck behind to shelter the compressor, vacuum pump and dust collector (spring project).
 
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For a residential installation I think that the electrician isn't correct in what he said. There is nothing in the code that says that the sum of all the feeders and branch circuits must be equal to or less than the service entrance size. If you add up all the breakers in a residence they will almost always be significantly more than the service entrance ampacity ... the logic being that you won't ever be running all branch circuits to their maximum ampacity. Installing a 100 amp panel in your shop doesn't mean that you will suddenly be using more power, but what it does mean is that you can put each 240 volt machine on a dedicated branch circuit which is what the code requires for fixed appliances. And you should have lighting on its own branch circuit and wall receptacles on their own separate branch circuits. A lot of electrical contractors around here don't seemed to be as cognizant of the NEC as they ought to be. Maybe it's time to get a second opinion.

Of course, I can't see your installation and what would be involved, but the quoted price sure seems steep. When I was a kid, we had a back yard workshop serviced by a single 15 amp 120 volt branch circuit. A light bulb in the ceiling and one wall receptacle and we were in business. :D

if you take a typical home 200A 42-circuit electrical load center filled with 20A breakers you would end up with 840 amps of potential circuit capacity which will never happen. Depending on the intended use of the building being serviced with power, the NEC code allows for derating the circuits based on typical use for the area, a home owner normally does not turn every light and appliance on in a house or run every piece of equipment in a private shop.
A typical home or shop uses very little power on an hourly basis, your lighting, heating and air conditioning usually represents the largest electrical consumption for a residence.
 
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