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Hollowing Question

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Last night I found the the limit on my hollowing set up.
C547F54B-2FB7-44A5-A305-E2FB8E16BA46.jpeg

If I wanted to hollow deeper vessels, would I need to go to a larger cutter (I’m using a 5/8”) or could I achieve more depth with a longer bar? The reason I ask is because my hollowing rig from Harrison Specialties came standard with a receiver for 1/2” bars and I ordered the 5/8” receiver. They don’t make a 3/4” receiver.

Since I’m not using the 1/2” receiver, maybe I could take it to a machine shop and have them bore it out to 3/4”. Or should I try to sell my current setup and find a different system?
 
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Not sure of the lengths but at random I would not go over 9 inches with 1/2 inch and 12 with 3/4 and that is stretching it. It is the bar and not the cutter that determines this. Someone will be along later with accurate lengths. There may be adapters for your system .
 
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Brandon, I have the Simon Hope system that came with 3/4” bars. And at 12”, as Gerald said it is being stretched to say the least. I usually don’t go beyond 7” with my 5/8” bars. I could get a 1” bar for mine, but I usually don’t hollow deeper than 10". I’m not sure the Harrison has enough mass to handle 3/4”, I would ask them. I think most will say if you are going to hollow deep a capture like the Jameson is best. There are others that work well also.
 

john lucas

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just a rule of thumb for me. I can go about 8" deep with 1/2" bars before I have fight chatter. About 12 with 3/4" bars. I have 1/2" adaptors on all of my 1/2" bars to fit my Jamieson style capture bar system. I should say that's with 3/16 HSS cutters. When I used larger cutters the chatter started sooner although I still use a large rounded cutter for final clean up passes.
 

John Jordan

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Looks like you ran out of wood, that's not a failure of the bar size.:eek: Lighter touch and flawlessly sharp tools can give you another couple of inches whatever the bar size. Smaller tip sizes do make a difference as pieces get larger. Many of us use a 1/8" cutter in bigger pieces. Something that will help greatly if you are trying to maximize the length is to use a faceplate. That appears to be a smallish chuck. A four or six inch faceplate will reduce workpiece chatter-it reduces the overall length by a couple of inches and has no moving parts.

I have 3/4 bars with 5/8" ends, if I understood what you're talking about.

John
 
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Hi @Brandon Sloan, I have the Harrison Simple Hollowing System, too. I use it to hollow out short and wide spaces rather than tall and narrow hollow forms, so not quite the same task as you are pursuing. Also you were working in end grain which is more difficult.

I believe Kerry Harrison has a video on his product wherein he describes reaching farther, but I find that around 9" off the tool rest is about all that is practical with 1/2" and a light touch.

One solution I have employed to improve the reach is to position the tool rest as deep as I can into the opening. The robust box rest (remove the pin) and Hannes Tools J rest (5/16" top rod) work well for this.

http://www.turnrobust.com/product/box-rest-long-post/

https://hannestool.com/products-overview/tool-rest/

I also have Harrison's optional 5/8" tool holder. You can probably drill out that 1/2" tool holder you are not using to 3/4", but I would be concerned that the remaining wall thickness on the tool holder might be skimpy for the loads involved. As an alternative you could look for 3/4" tools with (or modify them to have) a 5/8" tang. My opinion is that this would be a better option.

You also need to keep in mind what loads the rest of the articulating arms were designed for. Keep an eye on the set screws securring the joints. They may need occaisional re-tightening.

Another quick note. The 5/8" tool holder has an inside diameter of .626" or one thou over 5/8". One of my 5/8" tools was .627" and all of the 5/8 to 1/2" reducers I found on the market had OD of .627". I bought the Trent Bosch brand set, stuck a dowel in the 5/8, mounted it on the lathe and sanded it down to .626".
 
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Thank you for all the comments and suggestions/advice. I will start saving for one of the bigger hollowing systems. I’ve been happy with the simple system so far, I just need to work within its limits.
 
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Different tools for different tasks. I have a drawer full of screw drivers, but I don't always have the "right" one.

I think the SHS excels at turning short wide forms, especially in the periphery. But if my goal was to do an 18" tall vase I would want a long boring bar system like the Lyle Jamison. Depending on the shape I might do the shoulders with the articulaed arm, then switch to the long bar.

By the way, the long bar systems are simpler to fabricate and a lot of folks have built their own.
 
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Looks like you ran out of wood, that's not a failure of the bar size.:eek: Lighter touch and flawlessly sharp tools can give you another couple of inches whatever the bar size. Smaller tip sizes do make a difference as pieces get larger. Many of us use a 1/8" cutter in bigger pieces. Something that will help greatly if you are trying to maximize the length is to use a faceplate. That appears to be a smallish chuck. A four or six inch faceplate will reduce workpiece chatter-it reduces the overall length by a couple of inches and has no moving parts.

I have 3/4 bars with 5/8" ends, if I understood what you're talking about.

John

I will have to get one of your 3/4” bars and see if that makes a difference. I’m still learning but it seems like their are many factors that come into play when you get into larger hollow forms.

This forum is absolutely amazing, getting feedback and tips from the best of the best. It’s like having Michael Jordan help me with my jump shot.
 

John Jordan

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I will have to get one of your 3/4” bars and see if that makes a difference. I’m still learning but it seems like their are many factors that come into play when you get into larger hollow forms.

This forum is absolutely amazing, getting feedback and tips from the best of the best. It’s like having Michael Jordan help me with my jump shot.
Take a look at some of the hollowing articles on my website. Don't get in a big hurry to do larger pieces, you'll learn just as much on modest sized pieces with fewer problems.

John
 
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Take a look at some of the hollowing articles on my website. Don't get in a big hurry to do larger pieces, you'll learn just as much on modest sized pieces with fewer problems.

John

I read all of the articles on your website, except for the one in Spanish. Definitely worth the time, the gallery is very inspiring. First, thank you for your contributions to the woodturning world. Its always been my nature to want to “go big” but I’m taking your advice and I’m going to focus on modest size pieces and developing proper technique.
 
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If I wanted to hollow deeper vessels, would I need to go to a larger cutter (I’m using a 5/8”) or could I achieve more depth with a longer bar? The reason I ask is because my hollowing rig from Harrison Specialties came standard with a receiver for 1/2” bars and I ordered the 5/8” receiver. They don’t make a 3/4” receiver.
You could also have the end of your 3/4" boring bar turned down to 5/8” and leave your receiver alone.
 
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I am not as familiar with deep hollowing, at least beyond 12" off the tool rest. However, I am in the same line of thinking as Mr. Jordan in that turning smaller stuff will greatly improve your turning ability. Turning deep stuff off the lathe really compounds every aspect of hollowing. Besides if you are saving for some other rigs then it might give you something to do in the mean time.

I also agree with his assessment of your chuck, either a faceplate or deep jaws is a better way to go.

One thing I didn't see any mention of, although I may have missed it, is any talk of how long your handle is. I don't know how captured systems or arm braces effect this comment but it is recommended that a handle should be twice as long as the distance off the tool rest. Hollowing end grain is always going to be more difficult especially the drier the wood is.

How thick are you trying to get your walls?

JVD
www.vanduynwoodwork.com
 
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I was going for 1/4” I agree about developing my skills on what I have at my disposal. That vase was 11 inches tall. I don’t think I should be going past 8 inches with my current set up. Just have to fight the urge to want more. I have a set of 4” jaws but I was being lazy. Need to just bite the bullet and order an extra chuck.
 

John Jordan

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I was going for 1/4” I agree about developing my skills on what I have at my disposal. That vase was 11 inches tall. I don’t think I should be going past 8 inches with my current set up. Just have to fight the urge to want more. I have a set of 4” jaws but I was being lazy. Need to just bite the bullet and order an extra chuck.
No, you need a faceplate, really. A chuck is fine for things up to a point, but the best chuck and jaws still adds 2-3 inches of length you don't need.

John
 
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No, you need a faceplate, really. A chuck is fine for things up to a point, but the best chuck and jaws still adds 2-3 inches of length you don't need.

John

I didn’t think it was harsh, someone as experienced as you tells me to get a faceplate, I’m getting a faceplate! Actually I’m ordering two faceplates today. After reading those articles and giving it some thought, the faceplate will help with shaping the bottom of the piece. I’ve noticed some of the stuff I’ve made doesn’t transition well from the body to the base.

Thanks again for the tips.
 
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