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Proper tail stock center for a heavy log

Joined
May 6, 2018
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Cartersville, GA
If I'm turning a heavy (over 100 pounds) section of tree (for a large-ish end grain HF - about 12" tall by 10 " diameter), I like to start between centers, until I get my outside shape and create a tenon. The log is starting out around 14 to 16 inches long by 12 to 15 inch diameter. I'm turning on a Laguna Revo 18/36 lathe. The tail stock that it came with is that big pointed cone, and I can remove the end to alternatively use the smaller/sharper pointed/cupped end. Which is the better choice to pick between those two for that size log? The bigger cone seems to push deeper into the wood, but the smaller pointed one has the advantage of the cup cutting into the wood. If it matters, I'm usually turning black cherry or maple.

Thanks for your input,
Grey
 
Joined
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I turn a fair amount of large bowls, 23”-24” diameter from 6 to 9 inches in depth,
Some of these blocks weigh well over 100 lbs, I also turn lots of large end grain hollow forms.
With all my turnings I always use a cup center on the livecenter, the cup center will not penetrate as deeply as a pointed center but I believe it gives you better holding, plus if you need to alter or shift your live center to help balance the grain it’s much easier if using a cup center. With the pointed live center it will often fall back into the original hole.
 

hockenbery

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I would use a cup center.
If I plan on shifting and lining up the rims or grain I take the point out of the cup center.

I also have a ONEWAY 2436 I trust the tailstock and headstock to stay in place
I also tighten the tailstock frequently as the centers will work themselves deeper into the wood as i’m Roughing.

I only use a cone for centering in a drilled or turned hole
 

Emiliano Achaval

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An important thing to do is to make sure that you balance the piece. That's one of the main benefits of starting in between centers, gives you the ability to balance your blanks. Having a balanced piece lets you start at a higher rpm, making the start a more enjoyable time, And safer.
 
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Dallas, TX
I think I got the following tip off the forum and have been using it ever since.
  • Buy a 1.5"-dia 4-spur drive - you'll not regret it
  • Buy a 1.5" forstner
  • Drill a 1.5" hole about 1/4" into sound wood on both ends
  • Mounting large logs mandates a chain-hoist and crane system - the cost is less than a screwed-up back or crushed foot. I've got two different systems - happy to share details.
COMMENTS: I don't know if a 100-lb log is more dangerous than a 50-lb and so on - they are all off balance and the rounding process produces large shocks to lathe, toolrest, the drives and, of course, the turner. Today it is 100-lbs - tomorrow it will be 300-lbs

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09-11 Day-3.JPG
 
Joined
Mar 10, 2015
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www.revolvingarts.ca
For really big stuff (200+ lbs) I start by bolting on a faceplate of appropriate size.
But for up to 100 lbs (ish), I use a custom drive "spur".

IMG_3313.JPG IMG_3314.JPG IMG_3315.JPG
Its made from 2 pieces of baltic birch plywood. The smaller piece is sized to fit into my chuck. The larger can be any size you want.
Slap it on the end of your rough blank. Hit with a sledge hammer to get it to bite in.
Then mount in your chuck.

Takes about 30 min to make one and you might as well make a few of different sizes at the same time.

On the tailstock end, I do normally use the pointed aluminum cone. However I pre-drill a hole about 1/2" ID so the cone really sinks in.

I did try various drive spurs, even large ones, but none of them held as well as this solution.
These drives have never let go, even with very unbalanced pieces.
And you can use them on bottoms that are not particularly flat.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Mar 10, 2015
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Location
Aurora, Ont, CA
Website
www.revolvingarts.ca
COMMENTS: I don't know if a 100-lb log is more dangerous than a 50-lb and so on - they are all off balance and the rounding process produces large shocks to lathe, toolrest, the drives and, of course, the turner. Today it is 100-lbs - tomorrow it will be 300-lbs

So, a few tricks I use for REALLY unbalanced pieces (or where there are parts sticking out:
1 - use a chainsaw to take off big hunks - an electric is best
2 - "fine" tune the piece with one of these: https://www.arbortechtools.com/us/industrial-woodcarver/

indcarve.jpg


That will get you round pretty quickly, and minimize any drama on the lathe.
I just move the tool rest as close as possible, turning the piece by hand.
Find the high spots and take off as much as you need.
10-15 min for large wacky pieces
 
Last edited:
Joined
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Canton, GA
I definitely prefer the cup center--I also pick the spot for my centers and drill a 2+ inch spot into solid wood with a forstner bit. For the live center I think you're talking about you need to take the pointy cover off and use the cupped center beneath it!
 

John Jordan

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I think I got the following tip off the forum and have been using it ever since.
  • Buy a 1.5"-dia 4-spur drive - you'll not regret it
  • Buy a 1.5" forstner
  • Drill a 1.5" hole about 1/4" into sound wood on both ends
  • Mounting large logs mandates a chain-hoist and crane system - the cost is less than a screwed-up back or crushed foot. I've got two different systems - happy to share details.
COMMENTS: I don't know if a 100-lb log is more dangerous than a 50-lb and so on - they are all off balance and the rounding process produces large shocks to lathe, toolrest, the drives and, of course, the turner. Today it is 100-lbs - tomorrow it will be 300-lbs

OK, since no one else asked, what's the hula hoop for? Do you dive through it between cuts? On fire? :D Just turning those mega pieces is impressive enough.

John
 
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