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Grinds...the good, bad, and definitely ugly

Joined
Jan 9, 2019
Messages
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Location
Matthews, NC
I have to say, I need a tool upgrade and/or a more decent sharpening system. I started with what was labeled as a spindle gouge. But what that really means is that I managed to turn it into a fingernail gouge in no time. I used my round nose scraper some. But what that really means is that I managed to turn it into something more like a broad nosed scraper. I may eve have used my 1/4" parting tool a bit, whose tip to bevel angle changes every time I sharpen it.
With that said. I get a decent grind and try hard to get the angle with my little angle measure but have had too many slips on the grinder with my larger skew and am a bit hesitant to give it a go and my small skew does okay, but it's free hand.

Here's some proof of the madness..


So lay it on me fellas...in laymen terms please...it can handle it

half inch roughing gougehalf inch roughing gouge 2.jpg
half inch roughing gougehalf inch roughing gouge.jpg
Large SkewLarge Skew 2.jpg
Large SkewLarge Skew.jpg
one inch roughing gougeone inch roughing gouge 2.jpg
one inch roughing gougeone inch roughing gouge.jpg
1/4" parting toolParting tool.jpg
round/broad nosed scraperround,broad nosed scraper 2.jpg
 
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Joined
Jan 9, 2019
Messages
22
Likes
15
Location
Matthews, NC
More pics..
round/broad nosed scraperround,broad nosed scraper.jpg
small skewSmall skew 2.jpg
small skewSmall Skew.jpg
spindle/fingernail gougeSpindle,fingernail gouge 2.jpg
spindle/fingernail gougeSpindle,fingernail gouge 3.jpg
spindle/fingernail gougeSpindle,fingernail gouge.jpg
 
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Joined
Nov 18, 2016
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Location
Boston, MA
It seems like your technique is more of the cause than equipment. The Oneway jig may help but grinding a scraper is no more than presenting the tool to the grinder at the right angle.

I do agree a good grinder, wheels and proper tool rests make it easier to sharpen.
 

john lucas

AAW Forum Expert
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Joined
Aug 14, 2007
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You need a play date with another turner who knows how to sharpen. Find the nearest club, they have mentors, and most clubs will have a sharpening demo once a year. Jigs do work, and so does platform sharpening...

robo hippy
 
Joined
Aug 14, 2007
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I think you need a play date with another turner or some club members. That and '10,000 more times!.... But that is what you said last time.... Well, then 10,000 more times.' Since we don't have Star Trek transporters, you are a bit far away for a visit to my shop.... Here is a video I did, hope it helps some..

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9rZ6iR3bbEk


robo hippy
 
Joined
May 20, 2018
Messages
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Location
Milroy, Minnesota
You just need more practice and patience. You have to look at the grind as your going about it and take off metal where it needs to be removed and don't touch the places that don' t need metal removed. Here is my video on sharpening problems. Hopefully it will help.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M9G16ylEZHQ&t=131s

And another one on sharpening tips.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xbggxj2kgyc&t=45s

Once again perfect timing for me! This afternoon I spent some time re-contouring one of my Sorby gouges into a swept back profile very similar to the tool you were using in your video. After watching your video I went and checked my gouge and it looks as tho I did a pretty good job. Tomorrow we'll see if it works. Thanks
Dave
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Joined
May 28, 2015
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Location
Bainbridge Island, WA
Good sharpening takes a great deal of focus, practice and determination. If you get a chance to take a workshop with Eric Lofstrom (any workshop) you'll learn what truly sharp is, and how it can change your "turning life."
 
Joined
Apr 13, 2017
Messages
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Location
Gainesville, VA
I think that we turners probably obsess way too much on the business of sharpening...and waste a bunch of steel too. A sharp gouge is important...without doubt. However, a reasonable investment in a Robo Rest and a Wolverine jig gives you an easy way for getting a repeatable and respectful edge just about for the rest of your turning life. If there is one common/single deficiency that we all probably share is one where we don't sharpen often enough. Just my lowly opinion...
 
Joined
Jan 9, 2019
Messages
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Location
Matthews, NC
Well thank you for all of your replies and videos. Classes are out for me right now but I may be able to attend a meeting or two around here, schedule allowing of course.
Obviously, jig and platform sharpening beat out freehand sharpening. And for most applications I'm hearing jig over platform except for my scrapers. I suppose it's time to either invest in a better grinder with a platform already attached or DIY a platform, as well as a jig of some sort. And, if I can swing it (aka get it by the wife unnoticed) a decent bowl gouge.
With that said and assuming I'm using the equipment right, can someone explain why I might want a 40* grind instead of a 50* on a roughing gouge? Why are some more acute grinds I've found in "charts" for more "experienced" turners? And is there such a thing as too sharp?

I look forward to the day when my tools allow me to turn wood like a hot knife through butter like I've seem some of you guys do. I know it doesn't require all the expensive bells and whistles, and that yes there may some slight tendencies toward sharpening obsessions, but no doubt they can be useful and help save money on tools and wood in the long run..not to mention my patience.
 
Joined
Jan 24, 2010
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Cleveland, Tennessee
In response to this thread, I was turning a pen and pencil set yesterday. I keep my grinder and Wolverine within two steps of the lathe. OK, I stopped to sharpen the roughing gouge. Then I got the bright idea to touch up the edge and keep the metal. I used the coarse diamond file from DMT. Worked like a charm. RG went through the blank like a hot knife through warm butter. Amazing how well and how fast a tool cuts when it's sharp. Did that when the wife and I turned two pens today.
Edward, you could get your wife a low speed grinder and Wolverine setup for her birthday or your anniversary. Won't she be surprised!
 
Joined
May 4, 2010
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Bozeman, MT
Edward, it sounds like we should send you an application for membership in the cheapskate club that John and I have started.

For a sharpening jig, there are instructions somewhere on making an Ellsworth jig out of wood. Then you make a sliding pocket to put the leg into, and voila' a cheap and possibly functional copy of a wolverine type set up.

Not sure how you make a platform out of wood, but I've never seen a grinder provided platform that was functional, except on an industrial grinder. Somewhere out there in the UTUBEverse, there is a plan, though. If you have metal working skills, you might be able to produce something decent. (Robo Hippy has a terrific design for one and if I understand correctly, he has a local machinist make them. It doesn't have to come from a factory)

A good bowl gouge is a very good thing, but considering the stage you're at in sharpening, you might want a functional but inexpensive bowl gouge to practice on. When you reach a point where you don't take off a ton of steel to get a decent edge, then invest in the good stuff.

A 50-60 degree bevel on a bowl gouge is versatile and forgiving. A 40 degree bevel can do some things better, and some things not at all (like get around the transition zone inside a deeper bowl) If you use a 40 degree bevel, you will need at least one other bowl gouge, ground differently, to complete the turning.
 
Joined
Jan 24, 2010
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Don't know what angle is on my bowl gouge but it cuts good. I was trying to use it to make a box and discovered through the forum that it's the wrong tool! I reground it to simulate Lyle Jamieson's grind shown on his video. Four hours of great bowl turning info! Now...no tree is safe!
 
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