Do you pre-plan your shapes?

[Bobby Smith]

When you put a blank or hunk of wood on the lathe, do you usually know what your going to make and shape of it? Or do you just start gouging and a shape just starts coming to mind as you work? Just curious!

 

[Bill Boehme]

I definitely have a specific plan in mind and then mount a piece of wood that allows me to meet that goal. Sometimes I might not have a piece of wood that is exactly what I need so my plans will need to be modified.

It's not really good idea to mount a piece of wood without any preconceived plan in mind because:

• Good ideas don't just happen by themselves
• If you do get inspired somewhere along the way your idea is limited to the remaining wood.
• Making shavings is fun, but that's about it.

 

[Emiliano Achaval]

For me starts before I even put it on the lathe. When I walked to my wood pile, I see in my mind what the log can give me, so then I have to cut it with that plan in mind. Of course, not always thing go they way you want them, and like Bill, have to change. If I'm making a big Calabash, that's usually a big crotch with 3 end grain pieces with the pith, if I underestimated the bark intrusion, it goes from a Kuoho Calabash to an artsy Koa piece. When I put the blank on the lathe, I have a general idea what I want.
I tell my students that it's ok to put a piece a wood on the lathe and reduce it to nothing, just to practice. Practice all cuts. When I tell them we are making a bowl, some seem to stiffen and worry. Put a piece, to make shavings and have fun as the intended objective, start with a bowl blank and end up with a tea cup, it's a lot of fun!

 

[odie]

just start gouging and a shape just starts coming to mind as you work

^^^^^ That's pretty much it for me. I usually don't have much more than a vague idea what I want to do, and the shape evolves as I go. Those times when I do have a plan, it usually gets altered as I go. Quite often, characteristics of the wood itself determines shape. Of course, we do want to take advantage of aesthetic features of grain, or eliminate things like cracks and voids. One of my greatest examples of eliminating voids, is this Jarrah burl bowl:

The entire shape was the result of getting rid of as many voids as I could.....big ones! It's quite an odd shape for sure......but, someone ended up buying it......maybe specifically because it's such an oddball!

When you rough out a bowl, preparing for the seasoning process, you've already given yourself certain parameters to work within, and when it warps, those limitations become more defined.

-----odie-----

 

[john lucas]

It depends. Sometimes I just pick a nice piece of wood out of my stash and as I start turning it (I always start between centers) I start seeing things to either eliminate or that I need to take advantage of. Usually I have a sort of plan in that I want a bowl or hollow vessel or vase but that can often change depending on what that piece allows. I would say that most of my work has a definite plan and sometimes a pretty detailed sketch. A really good place to start for new turners is to get Richard Raffen's book on bowl design. This is especially true when starting a bowl. If you have a plan for how the lip and foot and over all design will be I think it helps. How many bowls have you seen that have basically square sides and flat bottom. that's because they start with no idea of what the final product should look and their tool skills keep them from moving forward. Well actually 2 things. They are trying to get every square inch of wood they have into the bowl. If you start with a plan it's much easier to get the outside to a good shape and then the inside just follows.

 

[John Torchick]

A noted sculpture was asked how he came up with a finished piece. He said the took a piece of marble and chipped away everything that didn't look like the finished piece.

 

[hockenbery]

It begins with the log. If there is a contour on the log that would make an interesting natural edge opening on hollow form or rim on a NE bowl - I cut the blank to closely center that opening on the top of the log.
Crotches are evaluated for form and likelihood of bark inclusions.
Straight logs are chosen by diameter.

When it comes to turning I usually decide what I want to make then find a suitable blank.
Sometimes I have a great piece of wood an I will think about what objects I can make from it and pick one.

When I turn i always know what I am trying to make and what shape I am trying for.

 

[Mark Jundanian]

I am almost always turning dry square wood.
Once in a while I will put on a block and just see what "turns out" and there's nothing wrong with that approach. However, the vast majority of the time I do a lot of planning. This includes detailed full size drawings of the bowl I am turning, which are based on the actual block I am working on.

 

[Fadi Zeidan]

Design comes with time behind the lathe. When you first start, you will just want to make a bowl, and as to do, you will notice what you like and do not like about the shape or attempt to put a feature or design. It may or may not work at the beginning.
With time, you will realize what shapes you do like, thickness, etc. and you will start visualizing the design and picking the right piece for it before you start turning.

 

[Lamar Wright]

I usually have a shape in mind to start off with, however, that is subject to change as I start working on the piece...... As the piece progress's along I may change the shape a little or a lot depending on what I see in the process.....but I do try an consider the style and shape of piece before shavings start flying.

 

[Mark Jundanian]

Nope. As a result of my meticulous planning my bowls come out perfect by design,
and re-design,
and re-design,
and re-design,
and re-design.

 

[odie]

Nope. As a result of my meticulous planning my bowls come out perfect by design,
and re-design,
and re-design,
and re-design,
and re-design.

Ha,ha.......I know how that goes!

As I remember, this Claro walnut bowl had a crack that looked like it would be simple to eliminate.....but, the further I got into the wood, The deeper the crack went. I remember thinking I'd lose this bowl before I finally eliminated the crack! It's been for sale for a long time now, and......it's still here......maybe it's just too much of an oddball!

-----odie-----

 

[Mike Johnson]

Starting out it helps to practice on a cheap easy piece of wood like pine before you start turning an expensive billet of wood. Depending on the shape and the complexity of the piece this practice piece can provide an opportunity to encounter problems and solutions before you make mistakes on the good piece. The shape and size of the piece can also require different types of tools, jigs and accessories to turn safely depending on how it is mounted and how many times you need to remount the work piece to complete the turning process. The practice piece will also get your tool skills warmed up so you don't make major mistakes on that prized wood billet. Everyone starts out as a novice turner, the learning process should include turning multiple pieces into a specific shape and size so that you master the discipline of using the correct tools and process to turn the piece into the desired shape.

 

[odie]

How many bowls have you seen that have basically square sides and flat bottom. that's because they start with no idea of what the final product should look and their tool skills keep them from moving forward. Well actually 2 things. They are trying to get every square inch of wood they have into the bowl.

What you're describing here, John, is the "dog bowl" concept. Just about every last one of us turners has produced one of these in the very beginning.....and, I'm no exception! A dog bowl is basically concerned with as much interior volume as possible......but, for a beginning turner, it's actually a good practice piece for getting a clean cut on the end grain.

-----odie-----

 

[Bobby Smith]

Thanks y'all for all the comments. I was just curious as how you think, standing by the lathe, with a block of wood mounted in front of you. I have mostly turned ink pens right now and when I start turning a pen, sometimes I have a shape in mind and other times not. I have a bowl blank I'm thinking of turning and I have a basic design in my head so maybe it will turn out the way I intended. Lol

 

[hockenbery]

Shape is very important to me.
Shape wins most arguments I have with myself if design change is suggested by a feature in the wood either positive or negative.

If a striking grain pattern emerges - can I keep it on the surface and still get a nice shape.
If a crack, unexpected void, punky wood etc. shows up - can I use? Can I cut it away and still get a nice shape, do I pitch the blank.

I don’t try to use all of the wood if a shorter or narrower form will have a nice shape.
I avoid letting my holding method dictate the shape.

If my form will look good paint black then I have a good shape.

 

[odie]

One thing I see in bowl designs from other turners, are shapes that are easy to power-sand. I think many turners limit their shapes according to limitations set by what can be power-sanded easily. This can be a personal limiting factor, because it eliminates the need for the cleanest cut possible......because, after all.....power sanding can overcome torn grain, or less than optimum results direct from the lathe tool. When tool sharpening and techniques are mastered, it opens up a whole new set of design opportunities, simply because the sanding is much more simplified and faster when it can be done by hand, and starting with a fine grit.

-----odie-----

 

[robo hippy]

Most of what I turn are bowls and plate type forms. Most of the time I have a general idea of what I am going to make, and in the end, the wood and I agree on final shape. Some times the wood has an entirely different idea..... Now, if I did 'artistic' pieces, I can see some planning for final shape, but some times the wood still has other ideas. If you are segmenting, then that can all change...

robo hippy

 

[R Henrickson]

It depends very much on what I'm turning. If I'm making pieces for spindle lattices (which incorporate 30-50 pieces), I have a specific shapes and dimensions for pieces which I need to adhere to for each specific project. Bowls I tend to have a general shape in mind. Plates with multiple curves need a basic layout, but turning is by eye. Plates with multiple offsets require a plan. I just finished a nutcracker demo at the local Woodcraft -- I've made enough that I tend to design on the fly, working from ideas I've tried before, but arms and legs have to be matched. Multiaxis sculptural pieces require a plan and keeping track of dimensions.

 

[RichColvin]

For me, it varies based on why I’m turning the piece.

• For artistic pieces, as others have stated, the wood’s figure and color definitely drives the final shape. That said, good design guidelines do indeed apply, and that is the overall guide.
• For practical pieces (especially architectural ones), well they must be pre-designed. And for these, I will often make a prototype to practice the approaches I think will be best, and to ensure the design is right.
• With objects on which I incorporate ornamental turning, I must incorporate pre-design into the work plan. And here, I also typically incorporate the use of prototypes.

Hope that helps,
Rich

 

[George Guadiane]

When you put a blank or hunk of wood on the lathe, do you usually know what your going to make and shape of it? Or do you just start gouging and a shape just starts coming to mind as you work? Just curious!

Generally, the process starts once the tree is on the ground. With an end grain form, the first thing I do is make the "chunk of wood" round and just smooth enough to figure out which side should be up.
When you have figured (mostly curly) wood, that orientation can make a huge difference in how strongly the figure shows up in the finished piece.
AND, I try to decide where the finished piece should be displayed. Coffee table height, dining room table height or eye level on a shelf.
The form, for me, is mostly dictated by the blank and the blank tarts in the log and how to cut it.

 

[Joseph Maiorano]

For bowls, I generally have a shape in my head to shoot for. Generally a pleasing hemishpeical curve or an ogee. I refer to some cardboard patterns to check my progress.

For spindle work, I always have a plan. I start out with a simpl drawing, transfer it to graph paper to create a pattern. Then I go over to the lathe and try it out on cheap pine. I keep refining my design until I like what I see. Finally I turn the piece on good wood.

 

[John Turpin]

In Kansas City, Trent Bosch spent some time talking about the "Golden Mean" design concept. I've used it ever since, when chucking up a raw blank.

 

[Breck Whitworth]

Bobby I always have an idea of what type yield the wood can provide.(size of bowl depth of bowl the shape that will best fit the wood). Depending on voids, knot holes, and such. If I am making a utility bowl then voids are to be avoided, if it's an art piece then grain action is very important. If it's to be a serious art piece then I will sketch out what I want the finished piece to look like. Form is always important to me because I want everything I make to look it's best if possible. As to the specific shape that might change a little depending on knots and such. The golden mean, fibonacci gauge, the divine measurements these matter if pleasing form matters to you. If you learn how these apply to shape/form you will never look at a finished piece the same again. If you are not interested you can have fun and create whatever your hands can make. Either way woodturning is one of the greatest skills you will ever experience.

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

Although I may have an idea of what I want on some pieces others are just to see what's will turn (no pun intended) out of the piece. Most turnings are for fun but some are planned and intended to go in a certain direction . Cannot draw well enough to make anything other than a basic idea so rarely do that.

 

[Matthew Ferriter]

I'm impressed by the meticulous level of planning by some folks here. My planning generally entails knowing that I want a blank to go from a square to somewhat more round with the ability to hold stuff (my definition of a bowl). Sometimes the shape is dictated by trying to fix something I screwed up, or until the dimensions seem pleasing.

 

[John Rander]

I usually sketch out an idea. Then I look over the piece of wood to see how that fits. Shape is a lot for me. If I don't feel ready honestly I'll let the thing set a couple of days, then go for it. I'm new at this and I must admit that wood has surprises and things change while turning. A big catch can modify your plan, and maybe make a more interesting piece. Also as a new turner, if I have a technical doubt, I'll glue up some 2x4 scraps and 4 hours later the wood is on the lathe.