Green Oak and rusty bedways

[Bruce Schoenleber]

I know that "rust on bedways" has been discussed here more than once, but here is the deal. I have long used Johnson's Past Wax for protecting my cast iron tools (table saw, band saw, lathe bed ...) and am mostly content with it. I have also used Boeshield T-9 and more recently Glide Coat. All have given me similar, ok results. Given that, my go to is still the paste wax because it is the most economical, an $8 can of Johnson's lasts a very long time, vs around $20 for a can of the other two.

None of the above protects against green (wet) oak. Red oak is the worst, but white oak also will defeat my bed protection regimen. I believe it is the tannins in oak that make it an oxidizing force. All of the above treatments help, but none allow me to turn a green oak bowl (I am not the fastest turner out there, by far, it takes me 60 - 90 minutes average to turn a bowl) and not have to re-treat the bedway for light rust.

Those of you who sometimes turn green oak, have you found a rust prevention protocol that can defeat the mighty oak?

 

[Richard Coers]

Scrub everything with a Scotchbrite pad and WD40 when done turning, wipe it down with a paper towel, forget it. Repeat after every session, only takes a few minutes. If really long turning session, clean when half way done. Oneway 2436 will be 20 years old this year, still basically looks like new.

 

[Bruce Schoenleber]

WD40 (or T9) and Scotchbrite is what I do prior to the wax top coat.

Perhaps (Ya think?) I am too anal regarding this. The lathe is the only tool in my shop that has the issue, being the only tool in the shop capable of spinning the wet out of wood.

 

[Zach LaPerriere]

The very best rust protection I've found for the lathe bed is Aero Kroil. It stinks like crazy, so I put it on at the end of a day. I have tried at least a dozen, including WD40 and Boeshield. LPS3 is pretty good too, but it isn't much of a lubricant.

I should offer that I don't turn green oak—I know it is crazy. I turn in an open air shop in a (moist) temperate rainforest, and I turn enough saltwater saturated wood to know extreme rust.

As for the title: Rusty Bedways...if I ever change my name, that'll be it!

 

[hockenbery]

Balistol works for me.
I get It .from Don Geirger.
Can’t stand the smell so I wipe it on the night before
It outlasts last wax which I used to use.

 

[John Turpin]

I'm experimenting with Breakfree CLP. Seems to work so far.

 

[john lucas]

I just use WD40, spray before I start, if I take any kind of break I wipe off the bed and spray again, then at the end of the session. I don't follow that regimine for most other woods but when turning Oak it's essential.

 

[Bill Boehme]

The very best rust protection I've found for the lathe bed is Aero Kroil. It stinks like crazy, so I put it on at the end of a day. I have tried at least a dozen, including WD40 and Boeshield. LPS3 is pretty good too, but it isn't much of a lubricant.

I should offer that I don't turn green oak—I know it is crazy. I turn in an open air shop in a (moist) temperate rainforest, and I turn enough saltwater saturated wood to know extreme rust.

As for the title: Rusty Bedways...if I ever change my name, that'll be it!

I love Johnson's Paste Wax and put it on everything. I don't turn much oak and the bed on my Robust is stainless steel so I'm pretty useless about giving a helpful answer. However, I also have Aero Kroil since I used to be an airplane owner. It is stinky messy stuff, but I agree with what Zach says. Maybe draping newspaper over the bed would help.

 

[John Torchick]

If I am turning anything that would splatter on the bed, I drape an old towel over the bed. When done I remove the towel and make sure the bed is dry. I have lightly "polished" the bed with 600 grit sandpaper and lubed it with Ballistol Multi-Purpose Sportsman's Oil. It's made in Germany and is similar to WD-40 but has a thicker consistency. Protects the bed and the tailstock slides much easier.

 

[R Henrickson]

In the years I owned a Jet 1642 and a 3520, I turned a lot of green oak. I never had trouble with the ways rusting, and never did anything to prevent it. Every year or two I might do a WD40 rubdown. The only aftereffect I ever noticed from turning oak was the ways might be darkened/blackened somewhat. I had far more staining on my hands than the lathe.

 

[Emiliano Achaval]

I buy WD40 by the gallon. I then added it to a Snap On spray can, have to add air from my compressor. I clean the bed ways with a scotch pad...

 

[Bill Boehme]

All you poor guys who don't have a Robust or Oneway with a stainless steel bed.

 

[odie]

I never had trouble with the ways rusting, and never did anything to prevent it. Every year or two I might do a WD40 rubdown. The only aftereffect I ever noticed from turning oak was the ways might be darkened/blackened somewhat.

This is pretty much my experience, as well. ^^^^^

Oak doesn't really rust the bedways, but it does leave a dark stain. With Oak, and any other wood with a high MC, I use whatever oil I have handy. Much of the time, it's a rag soaked with plain old motor oil that I keep near the lathe. Works fine for the purpose.

This White Oak crotch bowl had a 22% MC, as roughed. There was quite a bit of dark staining when I roughed it.


In MT, I've never had much problem with rust......I've never turned in any other climate, so I suspect rust problems are generally subject to where you are. Probably in climates where there is high humidity, and near salt water has some relationship........but, I only make a guess at that!

-----odie-----

 

[Michael Mills]

an ounce of prevention...
similar to John's towel
I made up some magnets (like refrigerator magnets) and use them to hold down plastic trash bag sections over the ways and the headstock (punch a hole to go over the chuck/spindle).
When through just lay them out to dry until next time.

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

My shop has A/C so not much rust problem. When I first got my Jet I left a bowl on the chuck wrapped in plastic (Mistake) rust on the chuck took a while to clean up. In turning oak have to agree that the tannins only cause staining which can be severe for a while, but does clean or wear off. I have had a little rust when I leave shavings (don't do that anymore) on the bed. Mostly use WD40 to clean and lube the bed. wax seems too intense and works no better that WD40.

 

[Owen Lowe]

Mostly use WD40 to clean and lube the bed. wax seems too intense and works no better that WD40.

Not surprising that WD40 performs well in this instance due to its water displacing properties. I assume it displaces the water in surface pores and scratches whereas the wax may tend to coat over the top of the water. WD isn’t much of a lubricant even though many folks believe that is its purpose.

 

[Bill Boehme]

I would have some concerns about using a Scotch-Brite pad since being abrasive it would increase the surface porosity thus trapping moisture even more likely which seems to me like that is going in the opposite direction of where we want to go.

FWIW, My old Delta 1440 lathe, other than being a woof-woof, has a bright shiny bed because I always kept it polished up with Johnson's Paste Wax. I never used any sort of abrasive on it.

I agree with Owen about WD-40.