Looks like you have a nice set to dry
if the sapwood will balance with the heartwood well.
Not sure what you meant by this. When I cut a blank, i know within a fraction of an inch how the sapwood and grain will balance. while roughing between centers I have the option of improving the grain balance over the sawn blank.
I think you must mean something else here.
the finished surface of four blanks on the top row caught my eye. 3 have rather smooth surfaces and should be easy to return when dried, the one on the tailstock has some obvious steps and grooves on the surface that could make it difficult to return.
It has been my experience that returning a dried bowl with a smooth surface is much easier than one with a rough surface.
You might consider turning a smooth surface on that bowl. It looks to have a nice curve. 2 passes from foot to rin should leave the nice curve and eliminate the grooves.
big bowls are harder to do because our body has to move smoothly through a longer curve.
i lock the tool handle to my side point my left foot in the direction I will cut a comfortable distance away, put most of my weight on my right foot, begin the cut, Shift my weight gradually to the left foot turning my shoulders to form the curve, and end the cut with most of my weight on the left foot That was at the comfortable distance away.
I have students find good foot positions by making shadow cuts with the lathe off sifting their feet until they find positions that cover curve. ( the above is for the foot at the tailstock. If the foot is at the headstock your weight will be on the left foot to. Start)